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dud root posted:Overall I'm going to buck the trend and say I'm disappointed with it- games where you pan left to right such as TF2 or KOTOR quite simply have what appears to be a low frame rate. I'm using a GTX580 & have transitioned from a 1600x1200 CRT @ 85Hz. The difference in game smoothness is night/day. The main point is the U2412M is not bad for gaming when compared to other LCDs, but it will not match a CRT. The closest you can get to a CRT in an LCD is a 120 Hz LCD.
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Jan 11, 2012 12:16
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^ ^ ^ On refresh rate alone. That will still leave you with a TN monitor, none of which I've found satisfactory for gaming, for oh so many reasons.dud root posted:2412M Funny how the predominant opinion of the forum seems to contradict this. quote:have transitioned from a 1600x1200 CRT @ 85Hz. Okay, see, you still have and are willing to feed a CRT. 1) That still makes your advice non-applicable for 99% of the thread. 2) Maybe you're right, and you should have stuck with the CRT, but 3) What are you going to do, exactly, when the CRT dies?
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Jan 11, 2012 12:19
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Sir Unimaginative posted:1) That still makes your advice non-applicable for 99% of the thread.  Ill still recommend to work that they upgrade & pay the difference between the Samsung 2443bw & get the 2412M instead. We usually buy a dozen every 3 months or so. For 2D windows & movies this thing is untouchable.
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Jan 11, 2012 12:41
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My monitor only came with a VGA cable, and I want to connect it via DVI instead. Do I just buy any DVI cable, or is there more than one kind? The monitor has a dual-link DVI-D port, while the graphics card has a dual-link DVI-I port.
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Jan 11, 2012 15:48
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Buh posted:My monitor only came with a VGA cable, and I want to connect it via DVI instead. Do I just buy any DVI cable, or is there more than one kind? Short version: if it's 1920x1200 or below, get a single link DVI-D to DVI-D cable and that will work fine. If it's larger resolution than that, like 2560x1440, get a dual-link to dual-link DVI-D cable. One end of the cable is allowed to be DVI-I (the video card side) if that's all you have.
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Jan 11, 2012 15:59
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As long as it isn't over 1920x1200 @ 60Hz, you only need single link. No special cable. Edit: beaten
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Jan 11, 2012 16:02
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Single link it is. Thanks for the info!
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Jan 11, 2012 16:19
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dud root posted:Well OK, but I still thought the constructive criticism was relevant. Ill go back to F5'ing ebay for FW900s I owned and used 3 FW900s before going to the U3011, so there's still a small section on CRTs in the OP (I think, unless I forgot to add it back in after the revision). They still can't be beat on black levels and refresh-rates, but eventually I got sick of care/feeding of CRTs and went LCD...it was worth it for my sanity. I'm getting 
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Jan 11, 2012 16:34
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Well poo poo, I was coming here to ask if Dell.ca ever had coupons for monitors, and what do I know, the U3011 is on sale right now for $1k instead of $1.4k. 
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Jan 12, 2012 01:52
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I have a Dell 2005FPW monitor (a 1680x1050 20.1" IPS display)that I've been using regularly for, I dunno, the last 5 years? I like it a lot, but recently it's begun to flicker with vertical scanning patterns when turned on after being off for a while, eventually resolving in a minute or so. This behavior is also apparent in the OSD and on unused inputs, so I strongly suspect it's not the GPU or cable. Obviously this isn't a big deal right now, but I'm wondering if this problem will progress further, and what will need to be done to repair it when that time comes. A video of this behavior: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CNsb7w01Vo&feature=youtu.be Thanks for any help.
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Jan 12, 2012 07:06
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That is absolutely not normal, and is indicative of some sort of hardware failure in your monitor. Chances are high it will probably continue to progress until complete failure. Considering it's a 2005FPW, the answer for "what to do" is "chuck it and get a new one." Seriously, unless you know exactly what's wrong with it (I for one don't, but it's in the hardware somewhere!), and are real good with fixing electronics, you'd have to take it to a repair shop, where they'd probably charge you close to what buying a new 20" monitor would be anyhow. It's lame, but on sub $500 monitors, paying for repairs is generally not worth it.
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Jan 12, 2012 08:43
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movax posted:I owned and used 3 FW900s before going to the U3011, so there's still a small section on CRTs in the OP (I think, unless I forgot to add it back in after the revision). They still can't be beat on black levels and refresh-rates, but eventually I got sick of care/feeding of CRTs and went LCD...it was worth it for my sanity. I'm still on a FW900. People goof on me for my giant microwave oven monitor Are there any great 16:10 120Hz monitors? I know the Asus VG series is recommended but they're TN panels and 16:9.
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Jan 12, 2012 08:49
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cpach posted:I have a Dell 2005FPW monitor (a 1680x1050 20.1" IPS display)that I've been using regularly for, I dunno, the last 5 years? I like it a lot, but recently it's begun to flicker with vertical scanning patterns when turned on after being off for a while, eventually resolving in a minute or so. This behavior is also apparent in the OSD and on unused inputs, so I strongly suspect it's not the GPU or cable. Found this on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6oOqUZgSqU&feature=related Honestly, the guy below you said to toss it, but it looks like it's simply a matter of replacing a few dodgy capacitors. If you know anyone handy with a soldering iron, this fix won't cost much to try. I'm pretty sure you could get the replacements for a small amount.
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Jan 12, 2012 09:49
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I just got a U2312HM for my work laptop and have connected it through VGA (the only option). However, the screen flickers quite terribly at the native 1920x1080 resolution. It does not flicker at lower resolutions, but they do not have the correct aspect ratio. I have tried the display with another laptop, and there was no flickering at native resolution. My laptop has Intel GMA 4500MHD embedded graphics, and the drivers are up to date. Is it simply not able to handle the display? What are my options at this point?
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Jan 12, 2012 12:40
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It's probably the refresh rate that's being fed to it over VGA. Control Panel > Screen Resolution > Advanced Settings > Monitor Screen refresh rate, make sure it's set to 60.
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Jan 12, 2012 12:50
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HalloKitty posted:It's probably the refresh rate that's being fed to it over VGA. Thanks for the reply. It is already set at 60 Hz, and it is the only available option.
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Jan 12, 2012 12:58
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drat.. well, it was worth a try.
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Jan 12, 2012 13:21
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I am thinking about picking up the Ultrasharp U2711. I am currently running a 32" 720p t.v. (single 560ti) which has a lovely resolution and has no problems running everything maxed out. Should I also be considering SLI or would another monitor be better? I would like to keep it above 24 which feels so small after being on a 32 for so long.
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Jan 12, 2012 17:06
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Unfortunately resolutions above 1920 are a curse in that way- not only are the screens vastly more expensive, but if you want to game you also have to get a much more expensive GPU or SLI/CF as well. It's your call if it's worth it to you, but I would bet you'd probably get used to a 24" right quick, assuming it's sitting on your desk.
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Jan 12, 2012 18:30
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Reread the OP, I'm a dummy, buying the bigger one. Thanks for the effort you guys put into these threads they really are a great resource.
himajinga fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 18:43
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Any recommendations for a 23"+ IPS panel to hook up to my Macbook Pro? I have a 22" TN panel att he moment and it sucks donkey balls. I am a designer and never printed at all, but now I need to calibrate my printer to the monitor and my current one is poo poo. I would like dual 23" Dell U2312HM but the outputs on the MBP means one large monitor is a better idea. Perhaps the 27" U2711. UK prices mean that monitor is £500!
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Jan 12, 2012 21:38
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Yeah, that's a good choice. If you wanted to save you could always do U2410...
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Jan 12, 2012 21:48
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Dogen posted:Yeah, that's a good choice. If you wanted to save you could always do U2410... The U2410 is £389 ex VAT.... I need a goon in the US to ship me something!
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Jan 12, 2012 21:50
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HalloKitty posted:Found this on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6oOqUZgSqU&feature=related This is what I was looking for, thanks. Soldering new capacitors is within my personal skill set so it should be all good. There's also a computer/electronics repair cooperative next to the bicycle cooperative that I volunteer at, so maybe they can help me out.
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Jan 12, 2012 22:06
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Monoprice MCD-T12 trip report: Not suitable for a heavy display (U3011 here) if you need the arm to extend outwards any. I managed to get it working by offsetting the mount and tilting the arm all the way in. Looks like Ergotron's heaviest duty mount only holds up to 30lbs to boot; not sure what to do at this point. This mount will probably stay for now; the only real benefit being that I saved some table estate. Speaking of table, the fact it's a crappy lightweight IKEA tabletop probably isn't helping matters any. I think I might get another one of these for the 2209WAs, as they're a good deal lighter and would give me even more desk room.
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Jan 13, 2012 02:30
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cpach posted:I have a Dell 2005FPW monitor (a 1680x1050 20.1" IPS display)that I've been using regularly for, I dunno, the last 5 years? I like it a lot, but recently it's begun to flicker with vertical scanning patterns when turned on after being off for a while, eventually resolving in a minute or so. This behavior is also apparent in the OSD and on unused inputs, so I strongly suspect it's not the GPU or cable. Wow, I opened this thread because I was considering posting this exact same thing. Same model, same problem. The only thing I've linked it with is cold. Sometimes it gets hot in my room and I'll leave the window open overnight (when it gets down into the 30s), the monitor goes crazy when I first turn it on in the morning, and it takes a while to settle. But when I don't open the window and it stays warm, it's not as bad and it seems to settle more quickly. Once it settles down, it's rock solid and I haven't noticed any other problems. The 2405FPW right next to it isn't having any issues, though. I've been considering upgrading it to a 24" or 30", but I'm not thrilled at the idea of spending $500-1300 on a new monitor. I spent about $1200 on this pair back when they were new. I'm just a little wary of getting a nice 30" Dell for $1300 when I can get a decent ~40-46" TV for that price (my 24" is also my TV). Where are the 2560x1600 46" screens?
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Jan 13, 2012 03:39
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Got a U2142M, where is the warranty information? Can't see a service tag and none of the documentation mentions it.
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Jan 13, 2012 14:15
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Lars Krimi posted:Thanks for the reply. It is already set at 60 Hz, and it is the only available option. This might not be what you're describing, but if you go into your monitor's settings there are some options to fiddle with. On my 2412m they are pixel clock/phase, it might be coarse/fine instead... auto adjust is also an option.
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Jan 14, 2012 04:48
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Carecat posted:Got a U2142M, where is the warranty information? Can't see a service tag and none of the documentation mentions it. Is the Service Tag obscured by the stand? Had that on a load of old Dell 15" and it was a PITA removing the stands just to throw the thing in a skip.
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Jan 14, 2012 11:18
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Maybe we need to modify the OP with tips on Dell warranty support. 24" and under do not have service tags, and you'll need to call someone who will actually listen to you, then give them the serial number (this is on a pull out thing on the side, or maybe on the back), and, to get them to help you quicker, give them the original Dell order number. Even if you didn't buy it from Dell. It will have this number somewhere on the Dell box it shipped in.
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Jan 14, 2012 11:22
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Whats the order number like? I've got a white and black label with a serial number and some other stuff, then there was still the original Dell shipping label hidden under mine (turns out this one came from Dell two months ago) which either has a work order or customer number as the alignment on the printing is fubar.
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Jan 14, 2012 11:57
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Does anyone have an opinion on the Asus VH228H? There's shockingly little information on it and while a friend (who's admittedly not very tech-savvy) out of state has one and loves it, I was hoping I might be able to find a more informed opinion. The only limiting factor (aside from budget) is that I'd like for the monitor to have VESA mounts as I use it on an articulating arm (seriously one of the best purchases I've ever made). I'd fall within the Power User category in the OP, by the way.
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Jan 15, 2012 01:50
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DrDork posted:It's unlikely to be your video card (unless it's defective)--any modern card, including cheap $50 ones, are more than enough to push a 1080p display. It's certainly not a calibration/profile if the issues are inconsistent. I'm not sure how old your particular monitor is, but it is likely that there is a fault in the monitor itself, or, less likely, in the cable. Especially if you got a cheap one from Monoprice or other budget online retailers awhile back, there was a rash of out-of-spec HDMI cables that were being sold that mostly worked, but would occasionally present strange and frustrating issues. You may have one. Following up on this, I reseated the HDMI cable just now because I'd pulled the video card to blow dust out. When I rebooted I noticed the lines I'd mentioned are now narrower. I guess that narrows it down pretty hard, I'll dig around for a replacement cable.
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Jan 15, 2012 04:59
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iF7PMuSJXQI Convince me not to get one of these.
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Jan 15, 2012 06:16
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it's 10 years old, takes up a fuckton of desk space, weighs 100lbs, takes 170 watts to run, costs more used than a new 2412, and if/when it breaks because it's 10 years old, you're more or less SOL. oh and it takes a VGA input.
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Jan 15, 2012 06:53
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> it's 10 years old, They don't make'em like they used to. > takes up a fuckton of desk space I don't live in a dorm. > weighs 100lbs That's still O(1) work, just a different constant factor. > takes 170 watts to run, My laptop has a 170 watt power adapter. > costs more used than a new 2412 I already have a 2410 so I could just sell it and now the price is less! > and if/when it breaks because it's 10 years old, you're more or less SOL. You can buy a broken one and scavenge it for replacement parts. > oh and it takes a VGA input. My laptop has a VGA output!
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Jan 15, 2012 06:58
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It requires frequent adjustment and tuning to get a sharp image, and you often have to settle for a sharp center of the image with blurry outsides, reducing the usable space of the monitor for information.
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Jan 15, 2012 07:24
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I've never adjusted mine and it looks fine. The edges aren't blurry either.
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Jan 15, 2012 09:15
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shrughes posted:
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Jan 15, 2012 09:53
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pokecapn posted:Just waste your money and never post in this thread again since you don't plan on listening to any of the advice in it Yeah man if you don't do what we tell you you're wasting your money and you're not allowed to post here anymore 
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Jan 15, 2012 11:11
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