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PeaceFrog posted:
77/78 CB750?!  wtf is that truck in the background? It looks like an early 50's Ford. My main jets like to play hide and seek http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2012/01/magical-disappearing-main-jets.html 3 of them backed out after rejetting. Replaced the 120's with 125's and will most likely have to go back to a 122.5 unless I can convince my friend to lose the airbox for pod filters.
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Jan 9, 2012 21:34
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'78. dirty as hell, but the parts pile is growing daily. I love it. I am thinking more and more that I should pull all the covers off for a buffing. I should have gotten one of these motorbike things a long time ago. Although the gear is a wee bit expensive. I think the problem with your carbs is that you are missing the accelerator pump. The truck you see is a '41 dodge parts truck, sitting on the donor frame for the '39 Plymouth truck. Work in progress. I don't have the funds available to pull a Moocow, I plan to finish it when my daughter is out of daycare. Started it before she was even a thought. That's why it is turned sideways and pushed to the back. There are 4 extra axles, 2 extra motors and shitpiles of parts to get rid of in, on, and around it. Motorcycles are more fun that fixing rust.
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Jan 9, 2012 23:34
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PeaceFrog posted:I think the problem with your carbs is that you are missing the accelerator pump. Nope, I'm not missing poo poo. Those carbs belong to my buddy's bike. I'm stockpiling PD41/42's actually. I'm all about the acc pump, even if it's a bitch to clean those little balls in the passageways. My only problem is finding a source for the later 77/78 carb boots. PeaceFrog posted:Motorcycles are more fun that fixing rust. You must have gotten lucky. In my experience motorcycles are made of rust and spiders.
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Jan 10, 2012 17:05
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No rust or spiders. The coils have rusty fasteners along with the electrics, but everything else has a liberal coating of oil from the automatic rear tire oiler and tach leak. Lots of stripped screws and caked on Pennzoil goo though. You seem to be stockpiling motorcycles.
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Jan 10, 2012 22:57
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PeaceFrog posted:No rust or spiders. The coils have rusty fasteners along with the electrics, but everything else has a liberal coating of oil from the automatic rear tire oiler and tach leak. Lots of stripped screws and caked on Pennzoil goo though. You seem to be stockpiling motorcycles. I've repeatedly turned down offers to be on 'Hoarders: Buried Alive" The tach leak should be easy enough to fix. I just did a writeup on it actually: http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2012/01/cycle-x-super-sidewinder-on-joeys-k3.html I'm still waiting on the new seals from ron ayers since they're apparently NLA from Honda.
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Jan 11, 2012 00:21
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The GF watched as my 2005 SV650 was loaded for shipping to Maricopa County. Sometime next month I'll be flying out there to show my best friend how to do maintenance on the bike and how to transition to it from his 150cc Stella.
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Jan 11, 2012 02:13
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I hope that trailer is rated enough for the weight of those two motorcycles 
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Jan 11, 2012 18:58
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the walkin dude posted:The GF watched as my 2005 SV650 was loaded for shipping to Maricopa County. Well, poo poo. I live in Phoenix and I'm trying to sell an 04 SV.
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Jan 11, 2012 20:27
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That good friend of mine lusted after my bike since I showed him it and let him ride it for a while over the summer. When I said I wanted to sell it he immediately said he'd take it. He just got a job at Intel over there so that's why the bike has such extravagant shipping.  He said he'll buy a new Street Triple after he gets accustomed to the motorcycling world on the SV650, and keep both bikes. Yummy.
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Jan 11, 2012 21:58
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I bought a set of BT-016's for my VFR  No more 10 year old tires for me!
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Jan 12, 2012 10:01
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Replaced all the parts damaged in the vandalism a few months back. The center fairing on the bandit is really annoying. Everything screws to it or around it. I had to take off both fairings, the windshield, headlight, and clocks to replace that thing. So I took the two bolts out of the fairing mount brace and saw what the bike would look like naked. I felt bad putting everything back on. Naked bikes are gorgeous. Do I have to drain the oil to replace the clutch cover? I assume so, wet clutch and all. I'd actually loosened six of the bolts before I thought better.
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Jan 14, 2012 00:45
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It depends, you might be able to just tip it to one side which should be enough to let you get the cover off. It also makes it a bit easier to get to it. I did mine by putting it on a rear stand and then topping up what I'd lost when the cover came off. Just be careful when you put it back on because the magnets of the alternator will snap it back together when it gets close enough. Put a screwdriver or something in between the halves and ease it back in place.
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Jan 14, 2012 01:04
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The center fairing on the bandit is really annoying. Everything screws to it or around it. I had to take off both fairings, the windshield, headlight, and clocks to replace that thing. The bikini fairing IS annoying. I thought, "Yup, this will be easy! Just two bolts on the bike frame and I can take the whole thing off in one whole peice!" Later, I found out you had to disassemble the entire front fairing to the inner frame to get to loosen a covered bolt needed get the clocks out. Oh well, at least after disassembling the fairing I could store it easier. 
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Jan 14, 2012 01:06
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Took the ruined aluminum sprockets off my 250 dirt bike and replaced them with nice new steel ones & an o-ring chain. I'd never done any of that before, chain or sprocket replacement. Wasn't too bad, once you get the tools in place and know the order of operations.
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Jan 14, 2012 01:29
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Do I have to drain the oil to replace the clutch cover? I assume so, wet clutch and all. I'd actually loosened six of the bolts before I thought better. Put it on the sidestand. Then pivot the bike over a bit on the stand so the back wheel comes up, put a block of wood under it and let the bike back down. (you can do this by yourself but its easier if someone is there to put the timber under the wheel) the bike should be leaned over enough to take off the clutch cover without spilling more than a few drops
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Jan 14, 2012 01:43
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Scored new headlights for the 636 with one repaired tab for $150. Now it looks like I'm going to be waiting awhile for a blue upper cowl to pop up. I've come across every other fairing in blue except that one.
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Jan 14, 2012 11:55
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Do I have to drain the oil to replace the clutch cover? I assume so, wet clutch and all. I'd actually loosened six of the bolts before I thought better. What's the problem here? Yes, drain the oil. It's a 2 minute job. That'll also give you a visual idea of the state of it. If you think you need to change it, do so. Draining isn't necessarily the same thing as changing it. Also don't listen to any username with the suffix "madman". You don't want to pivot your bike on the sidestand or balancing it with blocks of lumber while working on it. Just drain it. Save the circus show for the circus clowns. Use a new clutch cover gasket, clean the packing surfaces with gasoline and use a manual impact driver to remove the old cover and tightening the new (take it easy here and follow the tightening order) - use JIS bits with the impact driver. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jan 14, 2012 |
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Jan 14, 2012 15:32
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Gnaghi posted:Scored new headlights for the 636 with one repaired tab for $150. Now it looks like I'm going to be waiting awhile for a blue upper cowl to pop up. I've come across every other fairing in blue except that one. In case you're considering it I'd shy away from any aftermarket upper cowl from Delkevic but you might have good luck finding an aftermarket ABS one and having it color matched. The price might not be that different as compared to finding an OEM one and it's hard finding OEM parts on ebay without scuffs or scratches anyways. Fake edit: http://www.kawiforums.com/sale-parts-parts-motorcycles/186191-fs-05-06-ninja-zx6-parts-plastics.html Looks like he still might have the plastics you need.
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Jan 14, 2012 15:52
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Probably Hates You posted:In case you're considering it I'd shy away from any aftermarket upper cowl from Delkevic but you might have good luck finding an aftermarket ABS one and having it color matched. The price might not be that different as compared to finding an OEM one and it's hard finding OEM parts on ebay without scuffs or scratches anyways. I saw that but it looked like he didn't have much. Maybe he just sucks at taking pictures. The aftermarket stuff on ebay is either unpainted or painted but way off. The ads state it won't match but even the pictures on there don't look close to my color. Other sites like ninja fairings have had people complaining the color doesn't match too. I really wouldn't mind dropping $220ish on an OEM cowl but I'd be royally pissed if I threw a cheap one on and it looked like it came off a another bike.
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Jan 14, 2012 19:21
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Gnaghi posted:I saw that but it looked like he didn't have much. Maybe he just sucks at taking pictures. I was under the impression that he still had almost all the parts but just didn't take pictures of it all. If you notice it still looks like the windscreen is attached to the fairing in one of those shots. At least worth a PM anyways. As for the aftermarket stuff I was thinking it might be cheaper to get an aftermarket cowl for $150 and then spend another 100 having it matched by a plastic painter but I'm probably way off in my estimate. Like I said though, if you do go that route I'd stay away from anything Delkevic as the holes won't match up for poo poo(first hand experience.)
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Jan 14, 2012 21:17
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Or just buy a whole new set of chinese ones for 400.
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Jan 14, 2012 22:43
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I'd have suggested that but most chinese sets require some drilling to get the right fitments. That and paint bubbles, thin clear coat, thick decals under the paint, shipping damage, and he only needs one piece .
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Jan 14, 2012 23:12
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Probably Hates You posted:I'd have suggested that but most chinese sets require some drilling to get the right fitments. That and paint bubbles, thin clear coat, thick decals under the paint, shipping damage, and he only needs one piece Mine didn't have any of those issues, except one piece got damaged in transport. But they sent me new ones, no big deal they've gotten a lot better over the years.
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Jan 14, 2012 23:22
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I thought about Ninjafairings.com for switching to Kawi-green, but it doesn't cover the whole tank and there have been complaints about the paint not matching and needing heat wrap and such. That and I'd be taking off good oem plastics for cheap stuff. Next time I'll probably just stick one of these on the front with the same number as my sumo.
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Jan 15, 2012 00:59
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Z3n posted:Mine didn't have any of those issues, except one piece got damaged in transport. But they sent me new ones, no big deal Interesting. Do you recall which seller you bought them from? I went through 3 before I found a perfect set.
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Jan 15, 2012 01:31
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I swapped upper triples and attached the factory naked headlight brackets on my Bandit since the rest of the parts will arrive on Tuesday. SO CLOSE.
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Jan 15, 2012 22:06
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Did a slight wiring mod to my 1984 CB650. Essentially running some bigger wires to the coils, taking the killswitch out of the coil circuit using a relay. It's supposed to be a pretty good improvement in spark strength. I didn't bother trying to fire it up yet as I'm waiting for a drat air filter element to come in the mail. Also pulled my front and rear wheels off, I need some new tires. I'm also replacing the bearings while I'm in there. Quick question, if I bring my wheels some place to get new tires mounted and balanced, would they want the bearings in? Or should I just put them in afterward?
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Jan 16, 2012 02:27
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Ziploc posted:I swapped upper triples and attached the factory naked headlight brackets on my Bandit since the rest of the parts will arrive on Tuesday. You'd better just barf pictures into this thread when its done. I'm interested to see how it turns out.
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Jan 16, 2012 02:30
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Zubumafoo posted:Also pulled my front and rear wheels off, I need some new tires. I'm also replacing the bearings while I'm in there. Quick question, if I bring my wheels some place to get new tires mounted and balanced, would they want the bearings in? Or should I just put them in afterward? It doesn't really matter, but I usually take everything off just to keep things from being lost.
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Jan 16, 2012 02:33
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I topped up the oil today and put too much in  I guess i'm draining and refilling tomorrow.
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Jan 16, 2012 05:14
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theperminator posted:I topped up the oil today and put too much in Uhh, short plastic tube and siphon some out? I've done this a few times before. Most motorcycles don't hold that much, anyway, so a full siphon isn't really needed. Just fill and drain the tube a few times, all good.
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Jan 16, 2012 05:29
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Olde Weird Tip posted:You'd better just barf pictures into this thread when its done. I'm interested to see how it turns out. Sure will! OEM signals, gauge surround and gauge bracket will arrive early this week. I've already gotten my reproduction OEM mirrors which have very impressive quality for 30$ for both. The napoleon style look like they have quality materials, but the moron who did whatever final assembly stripped the gently caress out of two screw heads, which I can fix without much fuss. They too were also 30$. We haven't put to much effort into the wiring yet. I imagine we'll just wire the hi/lo beam straight to the H4 headlight for now keeping in mind that it might overheat with prolonged high use due to both filaments being lit. I need to look at the headlight switch more closely to see what my options are.
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Jan 16, 2012 05:32
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Olde Weird Tip posted:You'd better just barf pictures into this thread when its done. I'm interested to see how it turns out. So much this. I had all the fairings stripped off this weekend and the bandit looks SO GOOD naked. I was nearly willing to figure out a zip-tie and duct-tape solution for the clocks until I found I couldn't realistically mount that lump of a headlamp assembly. That and I can't convince my insurance company that there's any category other than 'sport bike' and 'cruiser*.' I want to go from "standard" to "naked" and neither of those things exist to them. *means Harley. My '97 Intruder was a sport bike, apparently solely because it was made in Japan.
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Jan 16, 2012 05:50
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I thought standard/naked were the same thing. I wasn't planning on telling my insurance anything since they already class my bike as a standard.
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Jan 16, 2012 06:18
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Geirskogul posted:Uhh, short plastic tube and siphon some out? I've done this a few times before. Most motorcycles don't hold that much, anyway, so a full siphon isn't really needed. Just fill and drain the tube a few times, all good. Thanks, hadn't even crossed my mind. How I overfilled i don't know, the proper amount is 2.6L and it was at the minimum level. I only added 1 Litre
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Jan 16, 2012 08:19
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:That and I can't convince my insurance company that there's any category other than 'sport bike' and 'cruiser*.' I want to go from "standard" to "naked" and neither of those things exist to them. My insurance company has two categories, "sport" and "custom/touring". Apparently my naked Bandit is in the latter category, so I'm on the half-price insurance plan. If I had gotten an S-model Bandit, I would have been in the "sport" category 
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Jan 16, 2012 10:23
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My itty bitty bike's been in the garage for the last 3 weeks. Took it out for a spin (and to fill up tyres with air)... after having issues getting it started. 
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Jan 16, 2012 12:00
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The KTM got it's 1500mi oil change, coolant flush and I changed the front brake fluid out to DOT 5.1. Not sure if I didn't bleed it right but the brake doesn't quite feel as firm as I remember it on fresh DOT 4. I'll give it another bleed on the weekend and see if it gets better. Are those wee push-button bleeder valves worth it? I usually just hook up some aquarium tube and loop it over the handlebars.
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Jan 16, 2012 12:48
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I test-fitted an aluminium spacer to add some preload to my ageing springs so I can start selling it. Nobody wants a bike that blows out their shock every time it passes a bump. Next up, drilling a hole in the second spacer and close a plastic tear. First I thought the front end *bonk* was my head bearing, but my local mechanic guy said I should do the spacer thing. PS drilling in a piece of metal with an hand drill with a bit of undetermined type is an adventure! Unmechanics unite! 
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Jan 16, 2012 15:03
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Ziploc posted:I thought standard/naked were the same thing. I wasn't planning on telling my insurance anything since they already class my bike as a standard. I think this just comes from most standard bikes being naked, ie, no fairings. I think the SV650 is kind of referred to as a "sport standard" where there is a little bit of a forward lean, whereas on a straight standard you are sitting pretty much upright with the controls in line with your hips, or a little further forward. But you can get the SV650 in both faired and naked form, even though it is a standard.
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Jan 16, 2012 17:11
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