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Ziploc posted:I thought standard/naked were the same thing. I wasn't planning on telling my insurance anything since they already class my bike as a standard. Standard is more riding position, naked is a lack of fairings.
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Jan 16, 2012 19:41
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Visited Rochester for the weekend and went to storage to check and lube my bikes' chains, just cause im anal like that. It felt so good sitting upon the SV650. 
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Jan 16, 2012 20:49
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looks like my oil level was fine after all, the dipstick on the daytona is a piece of poo poo. Topped up the coolant overflow bottle. took her for a ride around town and gave her the gift of a new bike cover.
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Jan 17, 2012 05:35
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theperminator posted:looks like my oil level was fine after all, the dipstick on the daytona is a piece of poo poo. I dont know how long you've had the Daytona for, but if you haven't done so already get a 1050 throttle mod for her. Its one of the cheapest, best mods you can do. Doublebubble screen then comes next.
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Jan 17, 2012 07:29
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mootmoot posted:Its one of the cheapest, best mods you can do.
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Jan 17, 2012 21:46
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Because it's from a 1050, so it gives the bike more horsepowers, obviously.
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Jan 17, 2012 23:05
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-Inu- posted:Oh really? Why is that? I'd love to hear this one. It's just a quicker turn throttle. Nice and more an ergonomic mod than anything else, no overtwist to get to WOT.
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Jan 17, 2012 23:20
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ReelBigLizard posted:The KTM got it's 1500mi oil change, coolant flush and I changed the front brake fluid out to DOT 5.1. The speedbleeders are pretty awesome (and something like 7$ each) from my short experience with them. But I'm not really a mechanic. Maybe a regular bleed is not a big deal for most, but I found it far easier than opening/closing the valve repeatedly. As for firmness - did you bleed from the MC end as well as the caliper(s)?
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Jan 18, 2012 00:06
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GanjamonII posted:The speedbleeders are pretty awesome I think I've posted this in most of CA/AI. Get them. It may cost you $14/21 but for gently caress's sake it'll save your knuckles and you won't have to worry about rounding off your old bleeders. Oh and it'll take you about an hour less to bleed your brakes. 
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Jan 18, 2012 00:28
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I've never had a problem bleeding brakes, but the only time I've had to do it I was servicing my caliper anyway. Just filled the reservoir, held the caliper above the cylinder and pumped till it spurted continuously, then open bleeder and check again once attached. Edit: Are you ever really supposed to bleed your brakes other than a scenario where you drained it/ran outa fluid? I'm not seeing a whole lotta use for them.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:32
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Bondematt posted:I've never had a problem bleeding brakes, but the only time I've had to do it I was servicing my caliper anyway. Just filled the reservoir, held the caliper above the cylinder and pumped till it spurted continuously, then open bleeder and check again once attached. Any time air can get into the system. Any brake line replacements, breaks, pad/caliper work, master cylinder work (on cars with drums), etc. Also, brake fluid should be changed more often than most people think, and any time you suck some out you need to bleed the system. Plus, on motorcycles, there are many more opportunities for damage to the brake lines. Also, you'll be AMAZED at how much easier it is with speed bleeders, and if you combine them with a pressurized bleeder and/or flush system, you'll wonder why you never did it before.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:44
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Had these on the track car, loved them, I could bleed all four corners in ~5 minutes between sessions. They are now on every vehicle I own 2 or 4 wheels. Bondematt posted:Edit: Are you ever really supposed to bleed your brakes other than a scenario where you drained it/ran outa fluid? I'm not seeing a whole lotta use for them. It isn't a bad idea to bleed your brakes every few months. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. Bleeding it a few times a year keeps the fluid in good condition.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:44
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Throwing in my support for Speedbleeders. I put them on my K5 SV, will install them on my other SV come warm weather.
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Jan 18, 2012 01:17
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lovely weather, got parts delivered, decided to install parts.  I'm SO close. Just need to wire in a relay to control the hi/lo filament, hide the wiring, and I'm loving sailing.
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Jan 18, 2012 03:33
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Z3n posted:It's just a quicker turn throttle. Nice and more an ergonomic mod than anything else, no overtwist to get to WOT.
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Jan 18, 2012 04:16
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mootmoot posted:I dont know how long you've had the Daytona for, but if you haven't done so already get a 1050 throttle mod for her. Its one of the cheapest, best mods you can do. I've had mine since the end of 2008, Not really interested in a quick throttle mod, I don't need to go WOT on the roads and I prefer to not have a twitchy throttle. My Daytona is still pretty stock, the only things I've done to it is to add the GB Racing full set, proton flushmounts at the front and a seat cowl. theperminator fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 05:24
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So apparently riding in drizzle with an open clutch is bad for barnett clutches. It actually happened about 3 weeks ago. The bike sat for a bit because of a dead battery, and the bike would keep stalling right when I put it in gear. I pulled the clutch out in two huge chunks like this. I try to pull them apart, and they do this.   Now I was expecting a little surface rust and extra wear as punishment for running an open cover, but I wasn't expecting the entire thing to GLUE TOGETHER. I've also ran an open clutch on OEM plates in lovely weather and didn't have these problems, and usually cover it up right after a ride so the water will evaporate off. Stock clutches use metallic materials, but barnett uses...something else. Luckily the people at barnett were awesome and sent an entire brand-new clutch, which I just received today. Gonna be running a closed cover for the winter, now. I kinda feel like a dumbass, but I've never heard of this happening before and didn't see any warnings, so I guess I got to learn the hard way.
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Jan 18, 2012 05:41
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That's news to me. I thought it was basically the same material as brake pads, and somebody would be in trouble if brake pads did poo poo like that when it rains.
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Jan 18, 2012 14:47
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I was under the assumption (and I may be wrong) that dry clutches were different, materials-wise than oil-bathed ones.
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Jan 18, 2012 15:22
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Slim Pickens posted:
That is six different kinds of  at least they sent you a new one.
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Jan 18, 2012 15:44
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That's news to me. I thought it was basically the same material as brake pads, and somebody would be in trouble if brake pads did poo poo like that when it rains. I would've been a hundred times in trouble if that was the case! Still weird that open clutches have such different materials w.r.t. brake pads that they act like gum when wet. Olde Weird Tip posted:I was under the assumption (and I may be wrong) that dry clutches were different, materials-wise than oil-bathed ones. your assumption still holds.  Slim Pickens posted:Stock clutches use metallic materials, but barnett uses...something else.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:22
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Well now that I have a new clutch, at least I can go ride now. OK fine, I guess I won't. 
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Jan 19, 2012 04:53
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That has to be the most common bike cover on the planet.
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Jan 19, 2012 05:02
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Everybody has one! Complete with little holes where the cover accidentally hit the exhaust pipe and melted for a bit before you got it stretched over.
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Jan 19, 2012 05:05
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WTF is a cover? Something to keep the dew or frost off the seat before you ride in the morning? What's the point, your rear end is so hot all that melts in 3 minutes, regardless. Who am I kidding? My commute is only 8 minutes anyway. Even having half of that without a frozen rear end would be good. I long for the days of 25-minute ride times. Keeps the mileage up when the motor can actually get warm.
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Jan 19, 2012 10:22
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:WTF is a cover? Something to keep the dew or frost off the seat before you ride in the morning? What's the point, your rear end is so hot all that melts in 3 minutes, regardless. Short commutes in the cold slush up the oil, no? I'm changing the 636's since I was starting/stopping it to adjust the cam tensioner. Just an I went from a 40 minute commute to 10 minutes and now it looks like my job is relocating...to down the street from me. Maybe I can get my thrills running lights and cutting off cars on a bicycle. Anyone here know how to do this? Is there a wiki or something? 
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Jan 19, 2012 12:01
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Gnaghi posted:I went from a 40 minute commute to 10 minutes and now it looks like my job is relocating...to down the street from me. Maybe I can get my thrills running lights and cutting off cars on a bicycle. Anyone here know how to do this? Is there a wiki or something? Either a hand-operated rear brake or a fixie+strong leg muscles. If your bike has a pedal brake, you can use that as well, but it's a lot harder.
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Jan 19, 2012 15:09
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Don't forget the crotch-to-stem maneuver, unloading the rear wheel and making it even more useless in slowing you down. Looks cool, though.
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Jan 19, 2012 15:50
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Haven't done it yet... but I'm actually considering a ridiculous sticker or two:  
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 18:28
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-Inu- posted:I know, I've never been a fan of quick turn throttles for street use. It just makes throttle response more twitchy if you're riding in the mountains. Manageable if you have a decent understanding of throttle control. Bad idea if you're mootmoot. Easier to pop a power wheelie 
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Jan 19, 2012 19:36
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mootmoot posted:Easier to pop a power wheelie Ugh just get out already
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Jan 19, 2012 20:17
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Gnaghi posted:Short commutes in the cold slush up the oil, no? I'm changing the 636's since I was starting/stopping it to adjust the cam tensioner. Just an Fixed gear bike with a balls-to-the-stem skid. Once you have the technique down it's much less impressive than it looks, as it's really easy to lock the rear up and slide around in any direction you want. My buddy and I used to do full circles around a flag pole. Doing it in traffic at 20mph is another issue, though.
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Jan 20, 2012 04:41
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:Fixed gear bike with a balls-to-the-stem skid. Once you have the technique down it's much less impressive than it looks, as it's really easy to lock the rear up and slide around in any direction you want. My buddy and I used to do full circles around a flag pole. Doing it in traffic at 20mph is another issue, though. Come to think of it I was doing it at 10 years of age on my huffy, smacking peoples garbage cans with the rear wheel. Is there anything special I need to know if I bought one off of bikes direct and had to assemble it? I was thinking of converting my old miyata since the chain is always falling off but it looks like even that is gonna be $150 in parts.
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Jan 20, 2012 13:04
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Haven't done it yet... but I'm actually considering a ridiculous sticker or two: Do one with the Italian flag and I'll put it on my Panda. EDIT: Or not, it'd end up looking like the Mexican flag </Top Gear joke>
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Jan 20, 2012 15:19
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Gnaghi posted:Come to think of it I was doing it at 10 years of age on my huffy, smacking peoples garbage cans with the rear wheel. Assembling the bikes is easy. You'll need a couple specialized tools such as a pedal wrench (or a skinny 15mm wrench) and a spoke wrench for truing the wheels (they are not perfectly true from factory). Other than that it's just allen bolts you gotta mess with. Check out the bicycle thread in Watch and Weight for more info.
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Jan 20, 2012 17:28
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Assembling the bikes is easy. You'll need a couple specialized tools such as a pedal wrench (or a skinny 15mm wrench) and a spoke wrench for truing the wheels (they are not perfectly true from factory). Other than that it's just allen bolts you gotta mess with. Exactly what he said. The Kilo TT is a fine bike for the price and Mike, the guy behind Bikesdirect, is actually easy to talk to. That said they are just mass produced in China Generic Bicycle Factory, so you definitely will need to go over the whole thing and make sure everything is secured properly. On top of the tools Fuzzy mentioned you may want to grab some grease (the tub of red stuff from Park works fine) and make sure that all threads are well-lubed. Oh, you're probably going to want to get pedals with clips and straps (not sure what the Kilo TT comes with these days); MKS Sylvans with the MKS clips and generic textile straps work fine. Don't buy the cheap leather straps because they stretch. After riding for a bit you may want a different saddle.
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Jan 20, 2012 22:04
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Gnaghi posted:Come to think of it I was doing it at 10 years of age on my huffy, smacking peoples garbage cans with the rear wheel. Also don't bother converting an old 8/9/10 speed. You might get extra hipster points (although I think that fad is played out by now), but you'll end up spending money on a new rear wheel, or, worse yet, lacing up a new hub or just JB Welding on a track cog. It's a lot less drama to just buy a new bike for a couple hundred bucks.
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Jan 20, 2012 22:09
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Awesome, thanks for all the advice. The Kilo TT is around what I wanted to spend and looks like it comes with straps and brakes. I'll probably post in the bicycle thread too, if nothing else just to figure out how to survive all the crazy intersections, merges and highways around me.
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Jan 21, 2012 00:07
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Broke one of the carbon exhaust hanger strap things. It was already damaged from the previous owners lowside but I managed to tear it while taking it off because Im a numbnuts. Fuuuuuuuuck.
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Jan 22, 2012 21:14
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I had my bike up on a little lift outside and then the wind came and now I have to buy plastics wheee
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Jan 22, 2012 22:56
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