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nm posted:The Tarmac 1s are V2s. That's what I was assuming, I guess. That's awesome that they are that durable, though. That's for sure what I'm looking at. What size tires do you run on your wagon?
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Jan 17, 2012 01:40
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The Jabberwocky posted:That's exactly what I needed to know. How much of a difference would that make in day-to-day handling vs the tarmac Is? I don't intend to autoX it or anything really, I just want to build a really loving good car. (Although that's probably the answer right there) How much would you charge to build a set? I'd say the T1s would be more than good enough. You get the same base valving as the T2 so they'll work with fairly stiff springs, but it's only rebound adjustable. Compression adjustment is nice for a track car but adds about $500, if they can actually make them (I just sent an e-mail to rce). And actually, the T1s appear to cost less than the V2s. MSRP on T1s is listed at 1675 where the V2s are 1899. And then you can use any front top hat for an 02-07 Impreza, or just keep your stock ones.
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Jan 17, 2012 01:46
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jamal posted:I'd say the T1s would be more than good enough. You get the same base valving as the T2 so they'll work with fairly stiff springs, but it's only rebound adjustable. Compression adjustment is nice for a track car but adds about $500, if they can actually make them (I just sent an e-mail to rce). And actually, the T1s appear to cost less than the V2s. MSRP on T1s is listed at 1675 where the V2s are 1899. And then you can use any front top hat for an 02-07 Impreza, or just keep your stock ones.  .
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Jan 17, 2012 02:15
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Lord Gaga posted:I have my laptop with me 24/7 for school so reflashing isn't a big deal. I also keep an inverter and my tactrix in the car. I have boost gauge and try to accelerate such that I stay around 20mm of mercury. Hopefully I can trim some of my driving amount but I'd still be spending a butt load. If that's the case, you're the perfect candidate to be testing out an economy map like that. I was just putting it out there since it's pretty rare that people have a laptop and the willingness to perform reflashes on the go with open source. You might wanna check out some of the cobb maps that they've made semi-public domain with similar stuff to what you've got, or if you're feeling adventurous you could bump your timing and lean things out yourself (the stock O2 sensor should be fine for that since you're out of boost). I imagine it couldn't hurt all that much to add a few degrees and change your WGDC maps to make sure you don't get on boost, as long as you change fueling to compensate.
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Jan 17, 2012 02:55
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More and more I think I should stop being a lazy jerk and actually figure out how to get a microcontroller to estimate MPGs by reading through the OBD-II port. No way I am spending $100 for a scangage.
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Jan 17, 2012 03:01
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The Jabberwocky posted:That's exactly what I needed to know. How much of a difference would that make in day-to-day handling vs the tarmac Is? I don't intend to autoX it or anything really, I just want to build a really loving good car. (Although that's probably the answer right there) How much would you charge to build a set? just spent some time on the Legacy forums and had a chat with Myles. Can't come up with a reason 05-09 coilovers won't fit your car. And no go on the 2-ways unless you want to spend ~4500 on some ASTs.
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Jan 17, 2012 04:23
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Uncontrolled slide? No, uncontrolled grins in my Leggy with snow tires. This thing is like a big swinging choad in the snow. Excellent. 
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Jan 17, 2012 04:59
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I don't think I legitimately took a corner all day, honestly. These cars find the hooligan button and push it relentlessly.Lord Gaga posted:More and more I think I should stop being a lazy jerk and actually figure out how to get a microcontroller to estimate MPGs by reading through the OBD-II port. No way I am spending $100 for a scangage. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 06:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't think I legitimately took a corner all day, honestly. These cars find the hooligan button and push it relentlessly.
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Jan 17, 2012 06:58
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No snow around here to mess around in. Last night I experienced the joys of turn-in understeer when foolishly attempting to get on the power as if I was in the E30. Improving things slightly this morning I experienced the joys of brake-induced oversteer when attempting to tackle the corner in Impreza fashion, which I guess is an improvement, at least given that it was going into a hairpin at the time. Don't think I trust these tyres, although they give a decent impression of driving on ice on cold tarmac, which I guess would be amusing if I wasn't trying to avoid hit trees, ditches and other vehicles. The BMW's T1-Rs stick like glue in these conditions, and it has more power than the Sport. Thinking about a full set of Kumho KU31s, which are pretty good value for money, albeit not as nice as the T1-Rs.
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Jan 17, 2012 14:04
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Next time try braking before the turn!  I really really like my Sumitomo HTR ZIIIs. Very good for the money.
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Jan 17, 2012 15:35
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Hey, Ive got a suspension question, and thought Id post it here. Ive got a 2004 forester XT. A few years ago, I swapped in some stock take offs from a WRX. Ive got about 110k miles on them now, and was looking to get some new springs. I wanted some wagon springs so I could get rid of the saggy butt and maybe go just a smidge lower. But with the miles, should I just get new shocks/struts too? I just did a coast to coast drive with the car very heavily loaded, and Im noticing a new creaking noise from the rear. Speed bumps or anything that causes the car to flex makes it creeeeeak. Is this a sign? Or is it maybe coming from something else? Other than the creak, it still rides just fine. But will new springs kill whats left of the shocks? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 20:22
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Your struts are probably blown but the creak might be coming from the strut top. KYB GR2s for the FXT might be right up your alley. If the strut top is dead, I'm not sure what options you have on the Forester. You might be able to get Group N tophats to fit, but it might need you to drill an extra hole in the strut tower.
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Jan 17, 2012 20:26
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new, stiffer springs on worn struts are definitely not going to work that well. The creaking could be from the springs or any number of things. try spraying some sort of a lubricant on the lower coils and see if it helps. Also, when you lower a forester/outback, you should really remove all the subframe spacers and put in a wrx steering linkage. it's pretty easy. you really just need new bolts for the front x-member and the linkage. The driveshaft is also a little different but I've done this to a couple of cars and haven't had an issue.
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Jan 17, 2012 20:30
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Cool, thanks for the tip on the KYBs. They look like theyd work pretty well. If I order a set, I should just order them for a WRX wagon, correct? And any advice on springs? Im looking for no more than an inch drop over the stock WRX, with decent ride quality. While Im all up in my cars business, I want to start taking care of some other suspension wear items. I think my front swaybar endlinks are shot, so those are getting replaced. Im not sure what Im replacing them with just yet, though. Id thought about using all stock STI bars and endlinks, front and back. Is there any reason I should go aftermarket? And jamal, thanks. What does removing the spacers do? Ill look into doing the linkage while Im in there, too. Is it as simple as just swapping it out? Nothing else needs to be changed? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 23:45
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They do actually have KYB GR2s for the Forester XT, but if you're bent on replacing the WRX suspension like-for-like I'd probably opt for the WRX wagon fitment (as close to your year as you can, unless you're already swapping tophats and drilling holes in which case upgrade to 06-07). Be aware that if you are not swapping tophats you'll have to install your existing (or replacement) FXT tophats onto the WRX wagon strut before installing it in the FXT. Other popular performance-strut options for the WRX wagon include the Tokico D-Spec, Koni yellow inserts (cut up existing strut, put new cartridge in it), and the KYB AGX which is a much more advanced version of the GR2. Depending on year, you may have to use a strut spacer. If you're using a non-wagon strut you might have to use a "saggy-butt" spacer to push the rear end a little higher. Endlink replacement isn't a huge deal, just replace them with a decent metal endlink like the Kartboys. There's only so much engineering you can really do to distinguish yourself on one of those. You might have some trouble with STI swaybar fitment; I seem to remember that at least on the WRX wagon there are issues with the OEM rear STI sedan swaybar not being able to fit without modification. I can't find it right now though. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 23:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You might have some trouble with STI swaybar fitment; I seem to remember that at least on the WRX wagon there are issues with the OEM rear STI sedan swaybar not being able to fit without modification. I can't find it right now though. The OEM STi sedan swaybar fits the WRX wagon, but it attaches on the outside of the end links reducing effectiveness.
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Jan 17, 2012 23:56
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Ive been running the WRX setup for about 3 years, and really like the ride and height. So yeah, Id like to stick with that but a touch lower. Is there a reason not to use the stock tophats (if theyre still good)? And Im not set on using STI bits, im still researching my options. From what Id seen, they fit my goals of price, ease of installation and performance. Ill keep that in mind, thanks again.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:22
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The spacers between the crossmember and body are to correct the suspension geometry of the taller cars back to what a stock subaru should be. So if you lower one down to wrx height, you completely gently caress over the suspension geometry. What this means is that with all things equal, a lowered car will have more body roll. You're also putting the suspension in the lovely part of the camber curve, where it goes positive with compression (the opposite of what you want for good handling). A roll center adjuster is good for cars lowered about an inch from stock, but putting wrx stuff on a forester (and then putting on a lowering spring for a wrx) goes way beyond that. RCE used to make some wagon specific springs that were stiff but didn't lower the car too much, but availability is limited and they are too stiff for a kyb gr2. you need sti struts, konis, d-specs, or agxes to use them. and actually, koni inserts would be a pretty good idea. and I can get them for fairly cheap. Seat Safety Switch posted:You might have some trouble with STI swaybar fitment; I seem to remember that at least on the WRX wagon there are issues with the OEM rear STI sedan swaybar not being able to fit without modification. I can't find it right now though. a forester xt actually has the same rear lateral links and swaybar fitment as the STi.
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Jan 18, 2012 00:36
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I remember reading that when swapping WRX suspension into a FXT, you should go with the sedan struts. This post on subaruforester.org has a ton of info on FXT suspension upgrades: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/how-turn-better-than-sti-cheap-10696/
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Jan 18, 2012 06:27
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I've got a sorta weird question. Which would be easier: swapping a manual into an H6 Outback or swapping an H6 into a manual Outback?
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Jan 18, 2012 13:52
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Probably easier to swap the transmission into the existing car since the engine has some wiring involved with it that might need to be spliced in the case of a swap, especially if you're changing generations (e.g. EG33 into an EZ30 car). That said, I don't know about the funky TCU-ECU interactions (if any) or what you might need to do to make things like neutral safety switches, etc work. I don't know how reliable a 5MT will be behind the H6 on anything but dirt.
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Jan 18, 2012 16:31
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Dyne did a thread on putting an ez30d in an RS and noted all the hurdles. Either way you have to mess with the TCU, but its not impossible. Probably easier to do a gearbox swap since you dont have to mess with a harness merge, just trick the tcu I would think. I wouldnt bother with an ez30r due to the extra wiring and ecu fuckery. The eg33 is also sexy, but only came in svx's.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:36
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Everything that came with the 30R has the immobilizer ignition stuff. The wiring manual for the car is a loving novel. I thought about that swap until the wiring manual download was like 5mb... For comparison, it's just a couple pages for an old ej22.
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Jan 18, 2012 18:21
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I think swapping an H6 into a manual outback would be much easier (ez30d at least). You'll have to futz around with wiring to, but it should be close to my 2.5rs h6 swap and I can give you my wiring matrix.
dyne fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 18:27
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I would rather do the transmission swap.
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Jan 18, 2012 20:06
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Does anyone know if Subaru is still having production issues after the earthquake in Japan last year? I've been trying to locate an '11 or '12 WRX in the Los Angeles area and between all 9 dealers within 100 miles of LA, there are 7 total WRXs for sale. Some dealers don't even have a single one on their lot. Plus, it seems because of the shortage, dealers are charging nearly 30 grand for base model WRXs when they should be just north of $25k. I've been lusting after a SWP WRX Limited sedan for a while, but I can't even find a limited to test drive. I guess I could just order one, but I want to take it for a spin and sit in the leather seats before plopping down the $30k. I tried to get a test drive of the base WRX at one dealership and they wouldn't let me without a "financial commitment" since it is their only one in stock. Not the best way to make a sale. I've been going back and forth between a WRX and Evo, and right now the Evo is winning purely because I can find one.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:57
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which dealer? I've never been much of a fan of santa monica or long beach. Friend of mine is the performance parts manager at south coast and they're usually pretty good.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:25
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Is there a good resource detailing the various Subaru-specific engine and body codes? For example, there are EJ## and FB## engines floating around in GD, GG, GE, and GH chassis(?), and based on my research the Legacy was interchangeable with the Outback for some years but not others, and the Outback is sometimes abbreviated OBX (I think) but sometimes not. I'm trying to get a good fix on this arcane Subaru knowledge so I can better understand the things I'm reading.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:33
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jamal posted:which dealer? I've never been much of a fan of santa monica or long beach. Friend of mine is the performance parts manager at south coast and they're usually pretty good. The one I went to was Glendale, but that's just because it's the closest and happened to have one WRX on their lot. Right now, according to their website, South Coast as zero WRXs in their inventory. That was where I bought my '09 STI three years ago. But it's the same story everywhere. There's just nothing in stock.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:43
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BoostCreep posted:Does anyone know if Subaru is still having production issues after the earthquake in Japan last year? I've been trying to locate an '11 or '12 WRX in the Los Angeles area and between all 9 dealers within 100 miles of LA, there are 7 total WRXs for sale. Some dealers don't even have a single one on their lot. Plus, it seems because of the shortage, dealers are charging nearly 30 grand for base model WRXs when they should be just north of $25k. You could fly out to Salt Lake like I ended up doing. I couldn't find a manual Outback XT within the state of California. I found it on Autotrader and bought a $150 flight on southwest to do the deal. I figured if it came down to and it wasn't absolutely perfect, I'd spend the $150 and fly home. I high suggest the Mark Miller South Subaru. Easiest car purchase I've ever had, and they were pretty easy to talk down in price.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:43
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Safety Dance posted:Is there a good resource detailing the various Subaru-specific engine and body codes? For example, there are EJ## and FB## engines floating around in GD, GG, GE, and GH chassis(?), and based on my research the Legacy was interchangeable with the Outback for some years but not others, and the Outback is sometimes abbreviated OBX (I think) but sometimes not. I'm trying to get a good fix on this arcane Subaru knowledge so I can better understand the things I'm reading. http://cars101.com is your best bet.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:45
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Falco posted:You could fly out to Salt Lake like I ended up doing. I couldn't find a manual Outback XT within the state of California. I found it on Autotrader and bought a $150 flight on southwest to do the deal. I figured if it came down to and it wasn't absolutely perfect, I'd spend the $150 and fly home. I high suggest the Mark Miller South Subaru. Easiest car purchase I've ever had, and they were pretty easy to talk down in price. I'm not afraid of buying a plane ticket, but I just want to sit in a car and take it for a test drive. That shouldn't cost me $300 in my opinion. Plus I just checked their inventory, and out of 300 cars in stock, only 3 are WRXs. Maybe it's just a WRX problem.
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Jan 19, 2012 04:50
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Safety Dance posted:Is there a good resource detailing the various Subaru-specific engine and body codes? For example, there are EJ## and FB## engines floating around in GD, GG, GE, and GH chassis(?), and based on my research the Legacy was interchangeable with the Outback for some years but not others, and the Outback is sometimes abbreviated OBX (I think) but sometimes not. I'm trying to get a good fix on this arcane Subaru knowledge so I can better understand the things I'm reading. G - Impreza S - Forester B - Legacy/Outback Engine codes are pretty simple for the EJ; EJ207 is a 2.0L STI motor, EJ255 is a 2.5L WRX engine, etc. There are some special cases (EJ25D vs. EJ251 for DOHC vs. SOHC naturally aspirated 2.5Ls) but that's generally the case for the 'modern era' (02+) EJs. The second letter indicates a chassis option (for instance, on the Impreza, GC is a 93-01 sedan or coupe, GF is a 93-01 wagon, GD is 02-07 sedan, GG 02-07 wagon... so on. The 08+ STI is a special case with a GR chassis code, and I don't know what the 2012 Impreza is). The FB is the new engine in the 2011+ Forester and 2012+ Impreza. A variant of it, the FA, is in the FT86. The EJ is the same basic engine they've used since the first gen Legacies in the late 80s, so ninety-five percent of the time people are talking about the EJ. The Legacy and Outback should always have interchangeable parts unless it's a model-specific trim/suspension part or a special situation (such as a Legacy model that predates the existence of the Outback, in which case it's probably compatible with the Impreza of a similar year). The Impreza appears to historically be a downsized/chopped version of the previous generation of Legacy; this is probably no longer the case as of 2012+ but it's been a way for them to reduce development costs and also move the more luxurious improvements downmarket. Things get more complicated with the H6, and also in foreign countries where different colours, drivetrains and options were offered (mostly Australia, but also Canada). As mentioned above, take a look at cars101 and you should get a basic idea of what the (US-market) Subaru world looks like. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 04:50
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BoostCreep posted:I'm not afraid of buying a plane ticket, but I just want to sit in a car and take it for a test drive. That shouldn't cost me $300 in my opinion. Plus I just checked their inventory, and out of 300 cars in stock, only 3 are WRXs. Maybe it's just a WRX problem. The dealership I'm dealing with in Minnesota had a 2012 WRX STi and a Blue WRX along with a used 2011 Red STi. I asked them to find a Blue STi and there was one in Mass, one in North Carolina and one in Wisconsin. I got the one in Wisconsin so now I feel very lucky. Sorry you can't find one to drive I also didn't want a limited though. I did get to drive a WRX and an STi to make my decision though and it seemed that to me it was worth the extra couple of grand. I'm not trying to talk you out of a test drive, though. edit: Monday night the financial guy was trying to sell me the undercoating bullshit and it was all I could do to not laugh since I was getting a very creepy "Fargo" vibe. At least his name wasn't Gunderson. Deus Ex Macklemore fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 04:55
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first letter is the car: G= Impreza B= Legacy S= Forester second letter is the generation and body style. C= 1st gen sedan F= 1st gen tall wagon J= 1st gen wagon M= 1st gen 2 door D= 2nd gen sedan G= 2nd gen wagon K= 2nd gen tall wagon G= 2nd gen impreza wagon etc. Basically each letter increases by one with each generation so for example, 1st gen Legacy sedan/wagon is BC/BF (90-94) 2nd gen legacy sedan/wagon is BD/BG (95-99) 3rd gen legacy sedan/wagon is BE/BH (00-04) ist gen Impreza sedan/wagon is GC/GF (93-01) 2nd gen Impreza sedan/wagon is GD/GG (02-07) but then after that they skipped a couple of letters 4th gen legacy is BL/BP 08+ impreza uses GE/GH/GR stuff is more likely to interchange between the same generation. so if you're looking for parts for, say, a 1st gen legacy, you're not going to find much listed, but pretty much anything for a GC impreza will work which really widens the options. As far as engines, the first two letters are the engine series, the second two are the displacement. EJ is the most common engine and in the states was first used in the 1990 Legacy as an EJ22 (2.2l). In the US there's also the EJ20 and EJ25, and there are 1.6 and 1.8l EJs in the rest of the world. The third number doesn't really have a set rule for how it works but describes what kind of an engine it was.
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Jan 19, 2012 05:08
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Wrar posted:I've got a sorta weird question. Which would be easier: swapping a manual into an H6 Outback or swapping an H6 into a manual Outback? Transmission swap. The wiring will be a nightmare ALSO - got to drive my Dad's brand new Forester. Well I suppose it's got more torque down low but........ not impressed at all. Nice comfortable car, quite soft but frankly the 04-07 Foresters are better. And the 2011 really is a surprise just how tall it is too. Subaru really have gone backwards with the Forester, no longer an entertaining thing to drive at all. I much prefer the 99 Forester that's now in the driveway, despite it's age and lack of power, it's got.... charisma I guess? Just feels like a more involving thing to punt around
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Jan 19, 2012 05:43
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I was driving home in my '02 Outback bugeye in a blizzard today when I noticed the temperature gauge nearing the 2/3 mark. This set off alarm bells because, since getting the head gaskets replaced 2 years ago, I've never seen the needle budge above 1/2. I was bracing myself to pull over and call AAA when the needle went back down. All time way home the needle drifted between 1/2 and 2/3. I would have stopped by my mechanic but everything was closed due to the snow. Shortly after getting home and shutting off the engine, there was a long, loud hissing noise from the bottom of the car. After the engine cooled down I looked at the coolant reservoir; it was not full but still above the lower line. I never got a CEL. I'll take it in tomorrow, just wondering if anyone has any ideas in the meantime.
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Jan 19, 2012 06:14
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Fascist Funk posted:
If you were truly in a blizzard, I'd bet that the snow piled up in front of the radiator or A/C condensor and blocked airflow. The hissing sound was the very hot radiator quickly melting snow. This happened to me all the time when I was driving in Rochester, NY when the snow was extra intense. Snow would gather on my FMIC and completely blocked airflow to the radiator, causing the needly to climb a bit but never really overheat. Chances are you're completely fine as long as it didn't get to the point of overheating.
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Jan 19, 2012 07:15
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The wrx/sti is a really low volume, hard to find car in general, even in the north east where there are a ton of Subarus. It took me about a year to track one down, you're better off ordering one.
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Jan 19, 2012 15:43
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