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You could install a shorter control horn on the elevator to increase travel. From watching your video perhaps it is because your servos arm is not centered when the elevator is neutral. That causes the control to move more in one direction than the other. Other than that I would check to be sure your radio does not have dual rates set to low rate if the servo doesnt appear to be moving as much as it should.
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Jan 16, 2012 03:51
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you're only getting about half travel on that servo. Check your dual rates.
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Jan 16, 2012 03:54
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Yeah, what tX do you have? Do this : Remove servo arm Turn on tX Plug in plane Make sure trim on tX is at 0 for the servo channel your adjusting Servo should be centered, so put the arm directly in the middle of the travel Adjust the rod length so that when it's connected to the control horn, the control surface is neutral.
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Jan 16, 2012 14:57
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Believe it or not but that's about all the travel you're gonna need with that plane. You may want to get some more throw with dual rates, but for normal flying that will be plenty. The Floater Jet can be very pitch sensitive especially if you get the cg right so it don't need much deflection.
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Jan 16, 2012 17:40
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First things first, center the elevator flap and then center the servo arm.
After doing that you should have equal deflection up and down. And like Vitamin J said you don't need much. A TINY bit goes a very long way. The way you have it setup right now it would be like pulling 10 G's in a fighter jet  let me know if you need more insight into that because I can take a video of my floater jet for you. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jan 16, 2012 |
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Jan 16, 2012 17:53
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I guess I just never would have thought having such a small amount of deflection would work well. I was comparing mine to the build videos posted earlier and it looks like his moves a lot more than mine. Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm not really sure how to check dual rates. Is that something my controller would need adjusting for? I know it hooks up to my PC but frankly I don't want to mess with that unless I have to.
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Jan 16, 2012 19:43
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Dual rates are typically a lever switch on the upper part of the transmitter. Look for switches marked D/R. I have one of these little guys and it has litterally 1/8" of total elevator travel in high rates. I fly it in low rates because on high rates if you yank back on the stick it will try to fly up its own rear end in a top hat. http://www.stevensaero.com/StevensAero-Adrenaline-Rush-Mini-Pylon-Racer-Kit-p-16631.html I have a second kit and I think the second is going to be a twin.
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Jan 17, 2012 00:26
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Yup it was totally the dual rate lever. Much better movement now. Assembly is pretty much finished now, just need a day that isn't super windy to test it out. Thanks everyone.
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Jan 17, 2012 02:23
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helno posted:http://www.stevensaero.com/StevensAero-Adrenaline-Rush-Mini-Pylon-Racer-Kit-p-16631.html That thing is pretty cool, can't beat that price. What was the total build cost?
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Jan 17, 2012 15:19
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Some guy flying near wind turbines and chasing cars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MisoDXYU8Y
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Jan 17, 2012 21:35
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My 1300mAh 3S lipo was like $8, but I'm looking on amazon and the same thing is like $15-$20. Am I missing something or is there just a big mark-up at Amazon? What's the best place to buy batteries? I noticed a lot of people recommended a larger battery for the AXN floater to help balance the center of gravity, like a 2200 mAh. I assume the disadvantage here is the additional weight? edit: lol Hobbytown USA is charging $46 for the same battery hobby partz is charging $10 hayden. fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 22:29
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Maiden flight today. Flight 1: Take off, immediate loop and landed upside-down on the only patch of pavement in the entire huge field. Motor and mount dislodged from styrofoam. Drove home, hot glue gunned that bitch, went back to field (I live close to it). Flight 2: Take off, immediately gain 10 feet of altitude because of wind gust, immediate nose dive into ground. No damage. Total flight time today: < 4 seconds. I finally realized as I was crashing to the ground on my second flight that the elevator was reversed (is there an easy way to fix this? The servo is glued in place). I am really bad at this. Forecast for the entire week ahead is windy. FML. hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 01:00
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hayden. posted:My 1300mAh 3S lipo was like $8, but I'm looking on amazon and the same thing is like $15-$20. Am I missing something or is there just a big mark-up at Amazon? What's the best place to buy batteries? RC is a luxury hobby that was pretty much relegated to rich old people. The flood of cheap chinese crap being direct-shipped to the US has blown it out of the water, and the US shops are still charging old-school prices for a lot of their stuff. In many cases the US stuff is better quality, or it's backed by a real warranty and return policy. Also in many cases the US stuff is simply poo poo from China relabeled and sold for 300% markup. You can make your floaterjet more nose heavy with a 2200mAh battery, but personally, I'm flying mine right now with a SkyLiPo 1300mAh 25C battery because they're light, they're cheap, and it lets the plane glide slower. Just make sure to push the battery as far forward as it will let you. More weight = more speed needed to achieve the same lift. hayden. posted:Maiden flight today. ok some tips: 1) When you launch, start at half-to-3/4 throttle. That way if things go bad you're not crashing under full power. 2) Train your "oh poo poo" instinct to throttle-off, and pull up. Again that way if things go bad, you're not crashing under full power. 3) Sounds like your elevator is pulling up by default. Trim the elevator down by about 1-degree or so. And of course use low-rates if you can so that you're not trying to pull Evel Knievel stunt flying on your first true flight. 4) if you're using the CT6B controller, there's software to program it that you can download freely, or for ~$2 you can get software called "digitalradio" and it's IMHO better than T6Config because the labels are actually written out in clear English. Here's a link to some other CT6B radio software: http://www.mycoolheli.com/t6Alternate.html 5) Get in the practice of doing a "pre-flight check" of the basic simple stuff. Before you throw the plane, make sure that Aileron right brings the right aileron up, left aileron down. Same thing for Aileron left, but opposite directions. Elevator up (pull stick down toward you) and Elevator down (push stick away) should similarly move the same travel in each direction. Check rudder as well. 6) Find a buddy with some experience. They can help you trim in the plane for the first couple flights, and watch how to fly to correct any bad habits - like d-pad video game flying (tap-tap-tap). And finally, (most importantly) EVERYBODY CRASHES. Don't feel bad about it, just learn from what happened and try again. I crashed my floater jet so hard that the tail broke off. Three toothpicks, some foam safe CA glue, and some duct tape later it was back in the air flying again. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 02:37
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hayden. posted:elevator was reversed (is there an easy way to fix this? The servo is glued in place). Your radio will have either a programming option to reverse the channel or a switch. Take a look in yur radio's manual and it should be pretty straight forward to reverse it. The Adrenaline rush didnt cost all that much. $20 for the kit $9 motor http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9069__Turnigy_1230_Brushless_Inrunner_Motor_4500kv.html $8 ESC http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F4318%5F%5FTURNIGY%5FPlush%5F6A%5F8bec%5F6g%5FSpeed%5FController.html $7 for two servos http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=663 Add your own micro receiver 3x3 gws prop you are good to go.
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Jan 18, 2012 02:54
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ease posted:Some guy flying near wind turbines and chasing cars. EnergizerFellow fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 06:55
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BTW, this is what I'm about 90% finished with. Worked on it since last july. Lacks now only cables between ESCs and batteries, installing the new front gear (broke the old one with glue seeping into it while glueing the fuselage together... bummer! You can see the gaping hole in the second pic) and a few little tidbits like adjusting the throws of the ailerons, finsihing the door decals etc. I hope I can maiden it in a a week or two, provided weather does not get worse here and I find time to do that.  
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Jan 19, 2012 01:47
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Wow you crashed it nose-first already? That was quick.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:03
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I love RC jetliners. That thing is awesome. Going to video your maiden?
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Jan 19, 2012 14:07
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CrazyLittle posted:Wow you crashed it nose-first already? That was quick. The surprising lack of a front gear caused that nose-dive, I suppose... Yes, when the maiden happens, a video will happen. I hope it will work out fine.
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Jan 19, 2012 16:05
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Success! Perfect day out, nice and warm and nearly no wind. Flew about 20 minutes (I think, didn't time it) before the 1300 mAh battery gave out. Was very relieved that even after the motor stops, the servos continue working for a while. Had a few accidental rough landings but no damage aside from a slightly squished nose. Every accidental landing was a result of trying to glide with no motor too close to the ground. This plane is definitely a boat, I was thinking doing a roll or two wouldn't be too hard, but I didn't even want to risk it after getting the wings perpendicular to the ground. It also didn't glide quite as well as I hoped for, but still a lot of fun regardless. Can't wait to charge up and go again tomorrow! edit: also thanks once last time to everyone, the help was amazing and I'm sorry for spamming this thread with such beginner questions. hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 00:08
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Nice! Glad it went well.
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Jan 20, 2012 01:32
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hayden. posted:This plane is definitely a boat, I was thinking doing a roll or two wouldn't be too hard, but I didn't even want to risk it after getting the wings perpendicular to the ground. It also didn't glide quite as well as I hoped for, but still a lot of fun regardless. What kind of issues were you having when trying to glide? Was it porpoising (raise nose, slow down, drop nose)? If so then you can counteract that tendency by trimming the elevator down a little bit more until it smooths out. If you want to glide, trim the plane when it's gliding. If you want to power along the majority of the time, trim it at half-3/4 throttle and cruise around that way. Running full power all the time will cut your flight time short. The raised wingtips means that it's going to resist rolling. It'll do it, but you'll lose a considerable amount of altitude when doing it. Feel free to experiment when flying but the general rule I've seen people recommend is that you should keep your plane at least "three mistakes high" so that you can pull out of it in time. For some more AXN Floater Jet fun, here's a pair of videos from the New Zealand guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rajByBs2kyY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Txawn37qwHA Once you're comfortable enough with your floaterjet that you want more/different planes, I would suggest getting a new radio that has multiple model memory in it. A Spektrum DX6/DX7 can cheap (used) and the receivers are cheap too if you get DSM2 clones like "OrangeRx" from Hobbyking.com. Otherwise if you want to stay with the cheap FlySky receivers, get a Turnigy 9X / Flysky TH9X since they're directly compatible with the CT6B's receivers. They're pretty cheap, but the stock firmware sucks. They're also in pretty high demand so you'd have to backorder one from Hobbyking's US warehouse, or get it from eBay or some RC forums classified. I got a USB interface board for mine ("Smartieparts board") and re-flashed it with new firmware that let's me do just about anything. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 16:26
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Just a boat in that it didn't like sharp turns and handled pretty lofty in general. It's not a bad thing, it means it easier for me to learn with. It didn't glide as well as I expected in that it took a lot more speed to prevent stalling than I would have guessed. The CTB6 radio I have seems like it's pretty easy to switch models with the software it has, would just have to take my netbook with me if I ever took more than one plane out at a time. Also what's with hobbypartz.com being entirely out of the batteries I need. This sucks. hayden. fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 16:52
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hayden. posted:Just a boat in that it didn't like sharp turns and handled pretty lofty in general. It's not a bad thing, it means it easier for me to learn with. It didn't glide as well as I expected in that it took a lot more speed to prevent stalling than I would have guessed. Yeah, bringing a laptop with you is a good alternative to getting a new radio. Make sure to save your different radio profiles. Which batteries do you want/need? SkyLipo batteries are good enough for what you're doing. I've noticed that pretty much every hobby shop site (including ones like Tower Hobbies) frequently run out of stock of the more in-demand items.
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Jan 20, 2012 17:02
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They're out of the 1300mAh 20C 3S batteries of every brand I think. I'm not really sure what else would work. 3S is the number of cells, right? And 20C is the discharge rate. I know mAh is essentially capacity. I don't really know what's required of my plane though. edit: and 11.1v, not sure how that matters either hayden. fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 17:14
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hayden. posted:They're out of the 1300mAh 20C 3S batteries of every brand I think. I'm not really sure what else would work. 3S is the number of cells, right? And 20C is the discharge rate. I know mAh is essentially capacity. I don't really know what's required of my plane though. Yeah 3S means "three cells". LiPoly batteries hold ~3.7V per cell. 2S = two cells in series = 7.4v 3S = three cells in series = 11.1v 3S2P = 6 cells, two parallel sets of three cells in series = 11.1v (typically higher capacity/discharge rate. The motor and prop combo on the Floater Jet can use anything over 20C discharge rate. You know you're undercutting it when the battery gets "puffy" or slightly inflated. Puff the battery too much and the LiPoly cells can catch fire like the Dell/Sony/Apple batteries did. Higher C-ratings also mean added weight though, so a 40C battery will work, but it might be 1-2g heavier than the 20C battery. That's not enough to really care unless you're trying to do ultra light gliders like Nerobro was doing. You can also go up slightly in mAh and still fly just fine. I started flying my floater jet with 2200mAh batteries, but moved down to 1300mAh when I realized it could glide slower that way. 2200's force it to go faster, but something like 1500mAh can't hurt. Either way here's some 1300's that are still in stock at hobbypartz: http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-1300-3s1p.html http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl1300-3s1p-30c-3333.html http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl1300-3s1p-40c-3333.html CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 18:03
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CrazyLittle posted:The motor and prop combo on the Floater Jet can use anything over 20C discharge rate. You know you're undercutting it when the battery gets "puffy" or slightly inflated. Puff the battery too much and the LiPoly cells can catch fire like the Dell/Sony/Apple batteries did. Just a note on this - I have a "Skyfun" where I crashed it and trashed the motor, so I stuck a HUGE motor on it as a replacement - a 450-sized helicopter motor, and a 8" x 8" propeller... It goes 100mph now. It also puffed my 25C battery pretty badly.
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Jan 20, 2012 18:09
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So as long as I stay above 20C I'm okay? By undercutting I assume you mean going under 20C. Would this work as the prop adapter: http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-3-0mm-propadaptor.html ? I see a few places mentioning it's 3mm on the AXN but just wanted to be sure.
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Jan 20, 2012 19:20
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Your plane is probably not even coming close to a 10C draw (10C works out to a 6 minute flight) but it is pretty hard to find packs that are less than 20C rated these days. One thing you might want to think about if you want your batteries to last a long time is how deep you discharge them. If you fly until your motor cuts out it means yo have hit your ESC's low voltage cutout. Flying to LVC means that you are taking every drop of energy that pack has. Lipo batteries don't like to be charged to much or discharged to much. Any time spent over discharged or overcharged reduces the life of the pack. If you draw to much current or always overdischarge yor batteries they will gett puffy and not perform as well. You said you flew for about 20 minutes on a pack till the battery was dead. if that is the case you might want to set a timer on your radio to beep at you after say 17 minutes so that you never get to that motor cut off point. Your battery will last much longer if you do this instead of flying to LVC.
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Jan 20, 2012 22:42
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hayden. posted:So as long as I stay above 20C I'm okay? By undercutting I assume you mean going under 20C. Yes the shaft on the floaterjet is 3mm, so that prop adapter would work. You can stick with the prop-saver and rubber band until it comes back into stock. The rubber band is just an o-ring that you can buy at Ace Hardware anyways.
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Jan 21, 2012 02:40
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Here's a Q for you guys - I'm looking for a heli:
I have my trex 450 clone but it's waaaay too much for me to try to teach another beginner on.
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Jan 21, 2012 22:02
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Flew three times today, had a ton of fun now that I'm more confident with my skills. Did some loops and rolls and full throttle flying. I met two guys out at the field just by chance and they were seemingly impressed with my skills for only having flown twice at that point. They had those DIY-foam F22 Raptors and they looked like a lot of fun. I'm going to stop by home depot tomorrow to get the foam to make one. They seemed pretty easy to fly, they were very maneuverable and one of the guys even had his essentially hovering wit the help of the breeze out today. http://rc.tomhe.net/f-22  edit: also, I somehow wound up with a second receiver (the part all the servos plug in to). Does my radio only work with the receiver it came with it or does it bind to whichever? How does it know which to bind to? hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 01:33
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hayden. posted:edit: also, I somehow wound up with a second receiver (the part all the servos plug in to). Does my radio only work with the receiver it came with it or does it bind to whichever? How does it know which to bind to? You actually program the receiver to listen to your radio, so you can have as many receivers as you feel like it. That's where a radio with multi-model memory comes in handy.
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Jan 22, 2012 05:10
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Welp, I broke my mSR-X today! The top rotor blades will not spin. I crashed it into the wall while trying to get comfortable flying it facing me. Had a brain fart and banked it the wrong direction into the wall. Ooops. I can't find any broken parts on the floor/table, and I honestly have no idea how to dissect the problem. If anyone has some pointers, please let me know! I will grab a couple pics and video with my phone to see if maybe that will help. e: Ok, I just gave it another shot and now the top rotor is spinning; however, not to full. It will not take off(and sounds awful). Images and video:    http://vimeo.com/35541012 Sypher fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jan 24, 2012 |
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Jan 24, 2012 00:22
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Have you checked the big white gear on the bottom of the heli? It sounds like it might be slipping off the gold metal gear? That or the main shaft is bent or broken maybe? Take the front canopy off and up the throttle slowly while watching every moving component. These micro heli's are hard as gently caress to troubleshoot sometimes.
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Jan 24, 2012 10:15
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Nuts and Gum posted:Have you checked the big white gear on the bottom of the heli? It sounds like it might be slipping off the gold metal gear? That or the main shaft is bent or broken maybe? Take the front canopy off and up the throttle slowly while watching every moving component. These micro heli's are hard as gently caress to troubleshoot sometimes. Ahh, what a simple fix. The gears were indeed misaligned. I just took a quick glance at the white gear, saw it spinning, and dismissed it as an issue. Thank you!
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Jan 24, 2012 17:05
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Test flew my OV-10 tonight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1IwV0z49fQ I am really happy with how this one flys. No bad habits and tons of power.
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Jan 28, 2012 05:19
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Sypher posted:
I can't help with the rest, but my MSR-x charger has a port on the right-hand side for an AC/DC converter. There's a sticker that says the official power supply is p/n EFLC1005. I do know that a Radioshack 6 VDC center positive ac adapter will work. I don't know if there's been a revision, but take a look at your charger and see if it has the port.
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Jan 29, 2012 01:29
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Too funny not to share: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcDN409ZBv4 RC planes shaped to look like flying people.
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Jan 31, 2012 01:34
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That one kid had throttle on the right. Remember what happened last time foreigners flew in NYC? Jeez. It could be a hipster thing I guess.
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Jan 31, 2012 01:40
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