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LumberingTroll posted:is windex better to use than water/alcohol 8:1 ? It's certainly easier and likely less expensive than buying distilled water and 80-90% isopropyl. The blue color doesn't change the color of the paint, if you're worried about that, and it can be used for other hobby applications as well, so it's a multitasker. dexefiend posted:Edit: After trying to thin with water, windex, flow improver, and combinations of the above, I still had trouble getting a hairline stream. It went from 0 to 1/4 inch as soon as it started flowing. What PSI is your compressor running at? If you want a hairline stream, you're gonna want to knock the PSI down to 4-5 PSI, maybe even lower depending on your airbrush. Additionally, metal flakes do cause significant more build-up than other paints do, so clean your needle often (a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol/Windex works a charm). Lastly, some airbrushes have finer needles/apertures, so check the needle's spacing before you put any paint in it; if you can, adjust the needle so that it produces the aperture you need--fiddle around with it for a bit, as all airbrushes are different. To make it easier, test it out with some water first and spray onto some paper. Generally what you see will be smaller with paint thanks to a higher viscosity, so keep that in mind.
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Jan 17, 2012 22:37
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Dr. Clockwork posted:Some scratch-built ships for a homebrew spaceship game that I'm designing. These are all built from 40k bits, a couple film canisters, and parts from the Pegasus Chemical Plant kit. I'm pretty happy with them so far Dr. Clockwork posted:The prototype is reminiscent of Warmachine in that there are damage grids, and you roll to hit a Maneuver value then roll damage vs the opponent's armor (not that those concepts are unique to Privateer Press games). There will be commanders or other characters that can be stationed on ships, and can issue special commands. It uses d10's, and there is a system in place to divert power from/to various systems on the capital ships. So if you want the shields to be stronger, you can take some power from the engines. It's a classic sci-fi trope. Holy poo poo, now I totally want to make my own scratchbuilt starships. Please post more information about it and let me know if you need a playtester! malal posted:I have a soft spot for space combat games, my introduction to chit wargaming was the first edition of Starfleet Battles. Make sure you link us to your rules whenever you get it up and going! (oh, and your fleet rules!) Needs more dakka. (That's so loving awesome.)
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Jan 17, 2012 23:05
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Crappy cellphone picture because I forgot to bring my camera to the store: But there they are! So glad to be done.
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Jan 18, 2012 02:32
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Are there any tutorials for painting a visored helmet as transparent? I've got some visored and unvisored pig iron heads that I wanna use to make a few shotgun scouts look like Doomguy/UAC marines. Is there an easy way to do this, or am I better off just using the unvisored head and finding some transparent plastic to go over it?
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Jan 18, 2012 02:33
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Be lazy, paint it blue/black/red/whatever like a giant eldar gem or a marine eye lens. It's never going to look totally right because you're trying to paint a reflection that changes based upon angle, but that will portray the right impression. And the idea of trying to make a tiny plastic visor of the perfect size, gluing it in perfectly the first time so you don't frost it up slopping around, and then praying you don't slop paint on your tiny, perfectly sized plastic visor (or alternatively, painting the rest of your manbarbie first and hoping you don't get glue on your paintjob) makes me  But gently caress it, if you think you can do it give it a try.
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Jan 18, 2012 03:44
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uncle jimbo posted:It's never going to look totally right because you're trying to paint a reflection that changes based upon angle
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Jan 18, 2012 05:12
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Halp! I need some ideas on how to weight this thing down properly. Put a couple of weights under the rock where his right foot rest but its not working properly. He's made out of metal and that banner keeps tipping him over. As much as I like that it fits his theme of Hobo with a Shotgun, I would prefer for him to hold himself up.  If all fails I'll just not have him over the rock and be done.
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Jan 18, 2012 05:57
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uncle jimbo posted:Be lazy, paint it blue/black/red/whatever like a giant eldar gem or a marine eye lens. It's never going to look totally right because you're trying to paint a reflection that changes based upon angle, but that will portray the right impression. And the idea of trying to make a tiny plastic visor of the perfect size, gluing it in perfectly the first time so you don't frost it up slopping around, and then praying you don't slop paint on your tiny, perfectly sized plastic visor (or alternatively, painting the rest of your manbarbie first and hoping you don't get glue on your paintjob) makes me Makes sense, I can see how it would be far more trouble than its worth to make it look transparent. Interestingly, I found a Blood Angels head that just happens to look exactly like Doomguy without his helmet, it would probably make more stylistic and practical sense to use this bare head and have the visored helmet on his belt or something, and do another scout (or two) with just the visored helmet. I wish Reaper still made those Doom miniatures from several years back, those were pretty cool.
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Jan 18, 2012 05:57
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Adrian Finol posted:Halp! Are you using the slot on the base? It doesn't look like it. If you're not and are going to cut the tab off the bottom, use a non-slotted 25mm base and glue a nickel to the bottom. It might not be quite enough to compensate for the banner at that angle, but it'll go a decent way toward it.
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Jan 18, 2012 06:15
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Fix posted:Are you using the slot on the base? It doesn't look like it. If you're not and are going to cut the tab off the bottom, use a non-slotted 25mm base and glue a nickel to the bottom. It might not be quite enough to compensate for the banner at that angle, but it'll go a decent way toward it. Its a resin base from Dragon Forge so full solid on the bottom. Already made holes to fit the weights so I can make more to add a nickel.
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Jan 18, 2012 06:38
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http://www.amazon.com/IWATA-HP-C-High-Performance-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR/dp/B001BO84UC/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1326867170&sr=8-53 does this look like a good buy for a first airbrush?
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Jan 18, 2012 07:17
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Drumstick posted:http://www.amazon.com/IWATA-HP-C-High-Performance-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR/dp/B001BO84UC/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1326867170&sr=8-53 Looks pretty good to me; dual action, gravity fed, internal mixture on the airbrush and moisture-trap, variable PSI configuration on the compressor with an auto-shut-off feature. Price is good to move as well. Make sure that when you get this, throw in a set of those nylon cleaning brushes they show, and the cleaning station if you feel like it (I personally love mine). EDIT: Oh how lovely, you can throw all three of those things into the cart at once! 
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Jan 18, 2012 07:24
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Adrian Finol posted:Its a resin base from Dragon Forge so full solid on the bottom. Already made holes to fit the weights so I can make more to add a nickel. Oh, er, uh... that'd be a big hole. Not much would be left of the base.
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Jan 18, 2012 07:27
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Ha, thanks. Ill do that. Im looking forward to getting one and firing it up. Maybe it will motivate me to paint my nids at last.
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Jan 18, 2012 07:28
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Drumstick posted:Ha, thanks. Ill do that. Im looking forward to getting one and firing it up. Maybe it will motivate me to paint my nids at last. You'll love this for nids, honestly. Basecoat your whole army in about 20 minutes, do some highlights in about 20 more. If you want to get real simple about it, do the following: prime, basecoat, highlight, wash, base, done 
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Jan 18, 2012 07:30
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A mate came over today and I picked up paint and brush for the first time in 7 months. He also brought his dual-action airbrush and compressor over for me to have a play with for the first time. Where has this been all my life? Did up a few layers on a Russ hull I had lying around and it's easily the best looking tank I've done. Had one problem, I put a drop of Windex in with some Leviathan Purple and water to shade the model, and white lines have appeared in some of the recesses where the wash has dried. What causes this? Too much Windex? Will going in there with a thin brush and hitting it with some thinner Leviathan knock them out?
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Jan 18, 2012 07:31
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adamantium|wang posted:A mate came over today and I picked up paint and brush for the first time in 7 months. He also brought his dual-action airbrush and compressor over for me to have a play with for the first time. The washes are thin enough that you don't need to thin them any further to run them through an airbrush. They don't act like washes though when you do this, more like tints (which can be awesome and useful in their own right). If you want them to flow, you'll need to use straight Windex OR a combination of matte medium, flo-aid and drying retarder (the exact amounts vary according to taste). But yeah, you can hit the areas again with a brush to fix that poo poo up, no prob.
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Jan 18, 2012 07:35
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Full of questions today it seems. If i wanted to use gun metal metallic can I add a drop of blue ink to give it a blue hue?
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Jan 18, 2012 07:47
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Drumstick posted:Full of questions today it seems. If i wanted to use gun metal metallic can I add a drop of blue ink to give it a blue hue? Yes, if you want it to be evenly blue throughout. You might also try painting gun metal and then washing with blue ink to give a more subtle blue shadow in the recesses.
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Jan 18, 2012 07:50
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And I'm full of answers, and this time I actually know what I'm talking about! To answer, yes, you can add blue ink to metallic paint and get it to a blue tint: you do need to be careful though, as a little ink goes a very, very long way. It might be easier to put a drop of ink on a palette first, then mix it into your paint little by little. Personally, I use a plastic toothpick that I've flattened out a bit to mix directly in the hopper.
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Jan 18, 2012 07:51
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malal posted:Welp, I finished the stupid Great Gargant. How big? This big. That's awesome! Looks incredibly good.
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Jan 18, 2012 10:29
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Sole.Sushi posted:
Tattooist ink caps are what you want for mixing small batches of colour to airbrush.
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Jan 18, 2012 13:08
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Adrian Finol posted:From the thumbnail this looked like a bird with a hat on. I was happy.
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Jan 18, 2012 15:24
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crime fighting hog posted:Crappy cellphone picture because I forgot to bring my camera to the store: This is the Game Shoppe in Bellevue Nebraska... Who are you stranger?
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Jan 18, 2012 17:22
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And how far is Bellevue from Lincoln?
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Jan 18, 2012 17:37
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SatelliteCore posted:From the thumbnail this looked like a bird with a hat on. I was happy. It still looks like that to me, even after looking at the real picture. 
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Jan 18, 2012 17:43
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Beerdeer posted:And how far is Bellevue from Lincoln? 45 minutes.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:44
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Hip-hop-o-pot-o-mus posted:This is the Game Shoppe in Bellevue Nebraska... I've been found, uh oh. I'm there all the time, friends of mine work there, etc. When do you normally stop in?
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Jan 18, 2012 18:09
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crime fighting hog posted:I've been found, uh oh. Warmachine Tuesday and Saturday.
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Jan 18, 2012 18:12
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Hip-hop-o-pot-o-mus posted:Warmachine Tuesday and Saturday. So you probably know Adam, the pressganger? He's my old roommate. We've probably met before and just not known it. Goons everywhere!
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Jan 18, 2012 18:19
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Nebraskagoons assemble!
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Jan 18, 2012 18:35
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Hip-hop-o-pot-o-mus posted:This is the Game Shoppe in Bellevue Nebraska... Who the gently caress are you? I work there. e: Ghetto you're in Nebraska too?
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Jan 18, 2012 21:08
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Lincoln, we've talked about this before
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Jan 18, 2012 21:38
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Where do I get inks? Or more specifically what brand/type?
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Jan 18, 2012 23:17
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Drumstick posted:Where do I get inks? Or more specifically what brand/type? You want acrylic artist inks, which you can find at art supply stores or craft stores like Michaels. Liquitex, Daler-Rowney, and Windsor & Newton are all good brands.
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Jan 18, 2012 23:25
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Nebraska smells, South Dakota is better  There is a group of your Omaha brethren coming up to my shop this weekend.
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Jan 18, 2012 23:43
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malal posted:I have a soft spot for space combat games, my introduction to chit wargaming was the first edition of Starfleet Battles. Make sure you link us to your rules whenever you get it up and going! (oh, and your fleet rules!) This is just stunning. Congratulations! Seconding the love for the space combat rules, they sounded pretty cool. crime fighting hog posted:Crappy cellphone picture because I forgot to bring my camera to the store: 
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Jan 19, 2012 00:02
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LumberingTroll posted:Nebraska smells, South Dakota is better Sorry, I can't hear you over the howling gale that blankets the giant windswept heath that is your state, drowning out the cries for warmth and attention from an uncaring sun. Nothing piling upon nothing, forever. I kid, I kid. Sioux Falls or Rapid City? What's your scene like?
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Jan 19, 2012 00:50
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Nebraska expatriate living in Vermont, checking in!
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Jan 19, 2012 01:03
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 01:04 |
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Flyover states ITT. 
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Jan 19, 2012 02:03
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