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blargle posted:The wrx/sti is a really low volume, hard to find car in general, even in the north east where there are a ton of Subarus. It took me about a year to track one down, you're better off ordering one. You should quote the post you are replying to. I was in the same boat however, it took me a while to find a reasonably priced 02-03 WRX in 2009 and it was 3 hours away.
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Jan 19, 2012 15:50
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BoostCreep posted:If you were truly in a blizzard, I'd bet that the snow piled up in front of the radiator or A/C condensor and blocked airflow. The hissing sound was the very hot radiator quickly melting snow. This happened to me all the time when I was driving in Rochester, NY when the snow was extra intense. Snow would gather on my FMIC and completely blocked airflow to the radiator, causing the needly to climb a bit but never really overheat. Chances are you're completely fine as long as it didn't get to the point of overheating. That makes sense. When I got home the grille was more or less iced over. Thanks!
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Jan 19, 2012 16:58
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My saabaru has been in the shop forever after the driver side head gasket blew. They have lied on progress repeatedly, and now they are saying the car is backfiring. It was supposed to be ready Friday. The warranty company is paying all but a few hundred bucks. I need this car for school badly, how long does this generally take? More than a month?? Aghh
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Jan 19, 2012 19:49
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Isaac Asimov posted:My saabaru has been in the shop forever after the driver side head gasket blew. They have lied on progress repeatedly, and now they are saying the car is backfiring. It was supposed to be ready Friday. My head gasket issue has taken two an a half years so far. Still got more time till I get to it. But if a shop was legitimately working on the car, it should be done in under a week (if the head needs machining).
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Jan 19, 2012 20:54
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Isaac Asimov posted:My saabaru has been in the shop forever after the driver side head gasket blew. They have lied on progress repeatedly, and now they are saying the car is backfiring. It was supposed to be ready Friday. Yeah, not very long is the answer. Who's doing the work, the Chucklefuck Brothers?
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Jan 19, 2012 20:56
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Saga posted:Yeah, not very long is the answer. Who's doing the work, the Chucklefuck Brothers? Maybe they are waiting on parts from the Saab dealer 
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Jan 19, 2012 21:36
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$250 for parts and labor to install an engine block heater in a new STi...that sounds like a lot for a $39 part or is that about right?
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Jan 19, 2012 22:32
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Flyinglemur posted:$250 for parts and labor to install an engine block heater in a new STi...that sounds like a lot for a $39 part or is that about right? This is a good question to post in the general thread if you dont get a reply here, someone who is a mechanic can look up the subaru quoted hours and basically say ($75-90 x quoted hours) + (part cost x markup) = normal price EDIT: That said, http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/subaru/blockheater.pdf
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Jan 19, 2012 22:59
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Anyone know what this sound is? It is driving me crazy! It will disappear for 6+ months but come back when I start regular highway driving. It usually only appears on left hand hard turns and sounds like it is coming from the front drivers side wheel well. To give you an idea of how loud this is, the exhaust you hear is an open downpipe dropping off half way through the car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnbhiBoKGMQ
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Jan 19, 2012 23:19
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Flyinglemur posted:$250 for parts and labor to install an engine block heater in a new STi...that sounds like a lot for a $39 part or is that about right?
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Jan 19, 2012 23:21
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Thanks guys. I'll try to keep my dumb questions to a minimum here  I know...too late.
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Jan 20, 2012 01:33
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Flyinglemur posted:Thanks guys. I'll try to keep my dumb questions to a minimum here Its not because it is a dumb question, I just dont know that anyone in this thread has a subscription to AllData or whatever.
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Jan 20, 2012 01:59
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 Subaru.jpg This is after carpooling people across a snow-covered dirt road on summer autocross tires.
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Jan 20, 2012 05:42
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mlmp08 posted:
I think you used the wrong picture - pretty sure Subaru.jpg is this one: 
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Jan 20, 2012 12:18
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But my picture is from a national park, so it counts for bonus subaru points.
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Jan 20, 2012 23:38
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Here's a picture I took immediately after driving off the lot about 90 minutes ago: 
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Jan 22, 2012 00:47
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Flyinglemur posted:Here's a picture I took immediately after driving off the lot about 90 minutes ago: I hate you.  I test drove a 2009 STI and my god what a car. The only thing I don't like about them is their low hood scoop - I want it to be pompous and huge, but still, awesome car.
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Jan 22, 2012 02:35
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Saga posted:Yeah, not very long is the answer. Who's doing the work, the Chucklefuck Brothers? That's what it seems like. Lucas Auto in Cypress, TX, near Houston. I live in North Texas but I'm down here in Cypress with the car now. In addition to replacing the driver side head gasket, they added a new timing belt(is it standard to only replace one belt? How many belts are there in a subaru engine?). As for some of the delays, they did have to 'wait on parts', wait on the warranty inspector to look at the car, wait for the results from pressure testing, but there were way to many other delays in between these details. My girlfriend's mom picked up the car for me yesterday and I drove it this morning when I got into town. It was slow to start, the stick was quite hard to move through all gears(had to coast out of the driveway because I couldn't get into reverse for some reason, it was grinding), the clutch had a ton of travel with little pressure, and the power-steering was acting weird. I took it back to the shop, where they fixed the clutch issue(air in the lines?), moved the power steering reservoir around to get some fluid moving while I turned the wheel. The mechanic drove it around some after messing with the clutch. The car shifts smoother now, probably just from being driven around more. I talked to the mechanic about the slow ignition, but now I realize(loving forgot!) he didn't address it after making the other changes, so it still takes longer than usual for the motor to turn over, and longer than it did earlier today. Originally there was going to be yet another delay in picking up the car due to some unexpected misfiring or backfiring, and then they said they fixed it. After the mechanic made the changes I listed above, I left and drove back to hurry and meet my girlfriend's family for lunch and a museum. Almost immediately after driving off I started to get a whine sound that increased with each gear change, getting the loudest in 3rd gear around 2~3k rpm, then backing off almost completely in 4th. I have had a little bit of trouble getting into 3rd reliably in the past, but I have never heard any whining when shifting, only if I was downshifting/engine braking, but even that sounds much louder and higher in pitch now. e: Maybe I should mention that I have been driving with the AC turned off so that I could hear what was happening. This sound almost reminds me of a video of a BMW with straight-cut gears. I am sure the shop is closed tomorrow, so I'll probably have to stay down here to wait for Monday morning. I need to be able to get back to north Texas for school on Tuesday morning, and there was talk of the shop owner arranging for a loaner car for me or something but I don't know. I am not a mechanic and I am really out of creativity and patience, so I could really use some advice or help troubleshooting. Also, I noticed 2 wires under the dash by the pedals with green molex-ish plastic connecters. The two looked like they were made to connect, so I connected them to see what changes would occur. When I restarted the car, I got a blinking CHECK ENGINE light, and the engine seemed like it was just barely idling. ??? I turned off the engine and unplugged them again, restarted it and the CEL was gone as it was before and the engine went back to how it was running before. quote:http://www.thesaabsite.com/92X/92Xfaqs.htm ehh?? e: I'm sure it could use a tranny fluid change, I will try to do that tomorrow to see if the whine goes away. Will I benefit from a specific tranny fluid or should I just go with whatever a shop wants to put in there? Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 04:52
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I've been thinking of replacing my 10 year old jalopy, and have been looking at a 2012 WRX and two other more or less comparable cars in more or less the same price range. After alot of looking, I managed to find a WRX nearby and took a test drive earlier today. It was fantastic fun, and the AWD was noticeably better for snow than the FWD that's in both of the other other models I've been considering. But I did notice the interior was a bit more spartan than those in the other two, and I don't have a good sense of overall reliability for the WRX. I'm not after luxury, or I'd be looking at something else entirely, but I also want to avoid any undue mechanical reliability concerns (I don't want a car that's going to constantly be in the shop), and any situation where saving money on the interior leads to constant rattles, finishes wearing off, or problems with interior parts breaking. So, a question for those of you who have them: Assuming that for the most part I drive it relatively normally and as a daily driver, driving mostly highway miles, what should I expect from the WRX in terms of overall reliability, and do I need to worry about interior quality as a source of reliability concerns?
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Jan 22, 2012 05:15
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Sympathies for the lovely deal you seem to be getting from your mechanic.Isaac Asimov posted:Also, I noticed 2 wires under the dash by the pedals with green molex-ish plastic connecters. The two looked like they were made to connect, so I connected them to see what changes would occur. When I restarted the car, I got a blinking CHECK ENGINE light, and the engine seemed like it was just barely idling. ??? quote:ehh?? quote:e: I'm sure it could use a tranny fluid change, I will try to do that tomorrow to see if the whine goes away. Will I benefit from a specific tranny fluid or should I just go with whatever a shop wants to put in there? Folderol posted:But I did notice the interior was a bit more spartan than those in the other two, and I don't have a good sense of overall reliability for the WRX. I'm not after luxury, or I'd be looking at something else entirely, but I also want to avoid any undue mechanical reliability concerns (I don't want a car that's going to constantly be in the shop), and any situation where saving money on the interior leads to constant rattles, finishes wearing off, or problems with interior parts breaking. Mechanical reliability should be pretty good; the only major thing I'd watch out for on the new cars is to perhaps put a custom tune on the car as the newest cars seem to still be running the air/fuel ratio dangerously lean up near (and past) redline. Services like TrueDelta record pretty favourable reliability statistics for the WRX and STI mechanicals. Be sure to look after the oil situation; turbo Subarus like to have their oil changed regularly and changed with good stuff. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 05:22
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Isaac Asimov posted:stuff There is one timing belt. To do the headgaskets they would have pulled the engine. It kind of sounds like they screwed something up with the clutch when removing or installing the engine. If they didn't know what they were doing it's a pretty good possibility because the sti and 02-05 wrx use a pull-type clutch, where the throwout bearing clicks into the pressure plate and pulls it away from the flywheel when you push in the clutch. To remove it, you need to either disconnect the TOB from the pressure plate with a long screwdriver or pull the clutch fork pin and slide the fork off the bearing. if you don't and start trying to pry the engine out you will gently caress things up. As for the slow starting, they may have missed a ground cable when putting everything back together. There's a pretty important one that runs from the battery to the starter bolt. Are you sure the whining sound is coming from the transmission/drivetrain? A missing ground could cause some electrical noise. The green connector is supposed to be unplugged.
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Jan 22, 2012 05:38
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jamal posted:There is one timing belt. To do the headgaskets they would have pulled the engine. It kind of sounds like they screwed something up with the clutch when removing or installing the engine. If they didn't know what they were doing it's a pretty good possibility because the sti and 02-05 wrx use a pull-type clutch, where the throwout bearing clicks into the pressure plate and pulls it away from the flywheel when you push in the clutch. To remove it, you need to either disconnect the TOB from the pressure plate with a long screwdriver or pull the clutch fork pin and slide the fork off the bearing. if you don't and start trying to pry the engine out you will gently caress things up. Uh roger that on the green connector. The sound seems related to either the turbo or the gearbox, according to my layman's ear. At this point I wouldn't be surprised at finding out about more incompetence. So let's say I suspect that this shop can't be trusted to do the work correctly and the warranty company has already paid them. Should I talk to the warranty company to investigate the shop's work and then find a subaru shop? And somehow arrange for someone other than myself to pay for all this...
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Jan 22, 2012 05:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Every Subaru has a bunch of rattles for various reasons (cutting corners on the interior, secondary and tertiary driveline vibrations, etc) but they don't massively degrade like GM economy cars. They're a pretty hard-wearing interior but don't expect European-style library silence. Many thanks for the feedback! I hadn't seen True Delta before, and I'll plan to spend some time there on all of the models I'm looking at. I'm religious about oil changes, so I should be OK on that front, and it sounds like the interior situation is more or less livable, though I'll probably have to do a bit of digging to get a sense of whether the rattles you mention are apt to be at drive-you-crazy levels or just at run of the mill low end interior levels (which I have now). I'm leaning towards more performance within this price range, but I'm hesitant to combine relatively frequent snow conditions with significant torque steer; those are strikes against both of the other options, so my guess is that unless there's anything really unreasonable to deal with in the WRX (which was a blast to drive), I'll end up taking the plunge and ordering one later this year. Red Dad Redemption fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 06:01
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Isaac Asimov posted:
The reason those guys want you to replace the oil pickup is because they are used to the 9-3 and 9-5 motors. Both have timing chains, and both sludge like a bastard. Saab screwed up on the PCV system, so the oil would coke into these hard particles that fall into the pan. Then they put a really fine screen on the pickup, so those particles can't get into the oil filter and be changed out. Usually your symptom is you lose oil pressure and your engine. I don't think the saab guys know much about subaru's so they copy and pasted from the other how-to pages. At least I hope so, as I have already changed out a 9-5 engine and don't feel like doing it to my subaru.
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Jan 22, 2012 06:56
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I know the EJ25 has a reputation (however undeserved, though we have had at least one high-profile failure here) for having flimsy oil pickups, so there are some decent aftermarket options to bolster those engines. I've only heard of one 2.0L EJ with a failing oil pickup and it was slammed into a rock face pan-first. The same upgraded pickup should go on EJ20 cars as well, though.
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Jan 22, 2012 07:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I know the EJ25 has a reputation (however undeserved, though we have had at least one high-profile failure here) for having flimsy oil pickups, so there are some decent aftermarket options to bolster those engines. Not undeserved at all, loving Subaru still don't admit it destroys engines.  The ONLY thing to break on my car and it juuuust had to be that. Nothing in the "flimsy" interior every really rattled or fell off, it ran very well apart from somehow injesting water into a ADVC control and been a fabulously reliable well made bit of gear. However the oil pickup IS a problem and if your oil pressure light does not go out immediatly on start then I would be whipping the sump off.
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Jan 22, 2012 07:35
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That was maybe worded poorly. You'll note that I sure don't run the stock pickup in my EJ255 The banjo bolt failure on the Legacy and 08+ turbo cars seems pretty shithouse as well.
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Jan 22, 2012 07:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Be sure to look after the oil situation; turbo Subarus like to have their oil changed regularly and changed with good stuff. I recently picked up a new to me 2008 Outback XT and will have to do an oil change shortly. I have no idea what oil was used previously, but is there something specific I should be using? Synthetic or conventional?
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Jan 22, 2012 08:02
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Falco posted:I recently picked up a new to me 2008 Outback XT and will have to do an oil change shortly. I have no idea what oil was used previously, but is there something specific I should be using? Synthetic or conventional? You should also take a look at the turbo banjo bolt filter as these are known to clog up with crap and kill your turbo if the previous owners haven't kept up on their oil change intervals. The specifics don't matter too much on a stock engine as long as you stick to Subaru's range of weights and use a good synthetic. I can't recommend a specific brand (because that will just invite a fight) but you should be able to find forum threads with tons of people debating it. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 08:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That was maybe worded poorly. You'll note that I sure don't run the stock pickup in my EJ255 Falco posted:I recently picked up a new to me 2008 Outback XT and will have to do an oil change shortly. I have no idea what oil was used previously, but is there something specific I should be using? Synthetic or conventional? Also, remember to check your oil. Even healthy 2.5 turbos can drink more oil than a normal car. Also, if you have a turbo or piston failure, checking your oil could save the rest of your motor as it will start drinking oil. nm fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 08:25
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as far as oil goes I've found it funny how they've changed their recommendations over the years. Older owners manuals recommend oil weight based on usage. I think up until like 2008 they even had 20w50 listed for extreme duty, high temperature use listed. Oiling systems/passages, bearing clearances, and oil pumps are pretty much the same for all EJ engines from 1990 to present.
jamal fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 09:20
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blindjoe posted:The reason those guys want you to replace the oil pickup is because they are used to the 9-3 and 9-5 motors. Both have timing chains, and both sludge like a bastard. Don't worry, some Subaru owners find a way to sludge the EJ25 too. 
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Jan 22, 2012 12:44
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Unless you have a really good local dealership you trust to rebuild a motor (I don't), better to run synthetic 5w40 from day one and sock some money away for a good shop to build you a motor if it breaks.
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Jan 22, 2012 17:05
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Lord Gaga posted:Anyone know what this sound is? It is driving me crazy! It will disappear for 6+ months but come back when I start regular highway driving. It usually only appears on left hand hard turns and sounds like it is coming from the front drivers side wheel well. Anyone? Theories?
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Jan 22, 2012 18:38
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Thanks for the advice. Luckily I bought from a decent dealer that forewarned me about the banjo bolt filter. Their suggestion was to change it around the 45k mile mark, but I may do it a bit sooner than that. I'll find some synthetic oil for my next oil change.
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Jan 22, 2012 19:34
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Salesman yesterday: we recommend synthetic oil. Me: is there synthetic in it now? Salesman: no Me: ......
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Jan 22, 2012 20:03
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Lord Gaga posted:Anyone? Theories? Maybe a wheel bearing?
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Jan 22, 2012 20:50
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Oh boy. Stock 04 FXT with 90k miles has a whine/wurring sound coming from the engine area when at more than 1/2 throttle, seems to be in limp mode, and is throwing codes P0011 and P0021. P0011 A Camshaft Position System Performance (Bank 1) P0021 A Camshaft Position System Performance (Bank 2) After some searching around, I found that it's either timing belt or oil related. poo poo. I removed the AVCS banjo bolt filters today just in case they were clogged, and they looked clean. I wouldn't be surprised if the turbo was on it's way out, but is there an easy way to tell that it is in fact the turbo making the whine/wurring sound? What do I do next? Is there a way to tell if it's either oil or timing belt related so I can get started down the right path? And does anyone know a good mechanic near Minneapolis? FML.
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Jan 22, 2012 21:20
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^^^^^ Metric Autoworks in woodbury worked on my car when I worked there and did a great job. They mostly do Germans, but one mechanic there does subis. Competent and honest. Tell them Nick with the blue Legacy wagon sent you. blargle posted:Unless you have a really good local dealership you trust to rebuild a motor (I don't), better to run synthetic 5w40 from day one and sock some money away for a good shop to build you a motor if it breaks. I'm fairly sure that dealers don't do warranty rebuilds. They just put in a refurbed motor and send the old one to subaru. I could be wrong, but that is the impression I get. nm fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 21:25
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Nope, dealers here (NJ) rebuild motors. A dealer replaced only piston #4 and nothing else on a local STI and surprise, the engine failed again in 5k miles.
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Jan 22, 2012 21:30
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