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This might seem like a daft question, but will any model of rear wiper fit onto any other rear wiper spindle? I've been looking at buying a smooth rear wiper assembly (something like this http://www.teamtorquesteer.co.uk/user/products/large/rear%20wiper%20after.jpg) for my Focus, and noticed that my mum has one on her much newer Peugeot 1007 which she said she would happily swap for mine. I have read somewhere that a lot of Peugeot/Fiat wipers will fit onto Fords, however I was wondering if anyone could confirm before I start pulling her car to bits?
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Jan 26, 2012 23:14
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Assuming her rear wiper is of similar design as the one on your Focus, it shouldn't be any harder than removing the nut that holds the wiper arm to the motor shaft and taking the arm off. I wouldn't expect it to take longer than 10 minutes to do the full swap.
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Jan 27, 2012 01:57
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hasegawa posted:I have a clutch/manual transmission question. My car is a 2004 Mazda 3 (the basic 2.0 liter sedan version). Had 78k when i bought it last year, now has 87k miles. I think you'd find a world of difference just from doing that. If you really think your synchros might be bad, use GM's synchromesh transmission fluid in there. I had a 2000 Miata with a failing syncho on second gear. Put synchromesh in and I didn't have any problems through the next 30,000 miles I owned the car.
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Jan 27, 2012 02:29
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einTier posted:Honestly, you're about due for a transmission fluid change. Most people don't think about it because it's something most people consider for automatics only, but your transmission has fluid and it does degrade over time. edit: The engine mount most prone to failure is the no. 3 on the passenger side. You can visually inspect it yourself. You can spot a bad one pretty easily because you can tell that it's ruptured and leaked. Here's someone else's photo of a bad Mazda 3 engine mount: 
Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Jan 27, 2012 |
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Jan 27, 2012 02:34
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Hey AI hivemind, got a question for yall My lady's car has a leaky headgasket. Looks like oil is getting in to the coolant, causing overheating issues among other things. No coolant is getting in to the oil, or at least not enough to make the oil go all milkshake on us. Her car is a 2002 Mazda 626 with the V6 in it. The shop it's at is claiming they can do some flush type repair on it. To me this sounds like temporary fix bullshit and I'm not a fan, however changing a head gasket on a transverse mounted V6 is loving terrible, especially when the car is worth maybe $3k. The shop quoted $300 for the flush fix, and didn't quote for a headgasket replacement, but I figure that'd be North of a grand. So my question is, do any of you have any experience with these kinds of patchjobs, what are your thoughts our recommendations for this situation?
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Jan 27, 2012 21:00
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Don't do it. Besides, a "flush fix" like Blue Devil can be done yourself for $35 (you buy the bullshit in a bottle and do it yourself, not that hard). Honestly, a head gasket on that engine isn't too bad - take it to a different mechanic.
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Jan 27, 2012 21:29
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At what point should shock absorbers / struts be replaced? It seems like if you ask 10 people the question, you will get 10 answers ranging from the obvious (if fluid is leaking everywhere) to the absurd (every 25k miles) to the plausible (when the piston will not return when compressed). It seems to me that a gas strut will continue doing the job that it is intended to do as long as the integrity of the seals is intact, and the piston is pumping oil on each stroke. Obviously, there will be some loss of performance as the unit loses gas pressure over time, but does that really matter from a safety standpoint? I ask because I have a 2005 Honda CRV that is pushing up on 100k and the struts are factory. I think the car handles pretty well and doesn't seem to nosedive or shudder going over bumps, but maybe I'm just not seeing it. I pulled my wife's 2005 Hyundai Elantra's struts to replace a bad mount and one of them had only a tiny bit of return left in it while the other refused to return. They only had 67k on them, so I can imagine that the CRV's must be similar.
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Jan 27, 2012 22:20
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skybolt_1 posted:It seems to me that a gas strut will continue doing the job that it is intended to do as long as the integrity of the seals is intact, and the piston is pumping oil on each stroke. And you figure that out by bouncing the hell out of each corner of your car. Once you get it really moving, stop pushing on a down stroke and get your hands out of the way. It should come up and stop in the middle. Full stop. If it keeps oscillating, replace whatever is in that corner. That's their job, and they need to be replaced when they stop doing that job. They wear from driving style, environment, vehicle weight and loading, etc, etc so mileage based changed are nothing more than wild guesses. And there's no need, as they are easy to check.
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Jan 27, 2012 22:30
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Before I just go get a bottle of Goo-Gone and a decent scraper, has anyone else any experience taking off fake car-phone antennas?
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Jan 27, 2012 23:17
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skybolt_1 posted:At what point should shock absorbers / struts be replaced? It seems like if you ask 10 people the question, you will get 10 answers ranging from the obvious (if fluid is leaking everywhere) to the absurd (every 25k miles) to the plausible (when the piston will not return when compressed). every 60k seems reasonable to me. You can always do the "jounce test" Basically bounce the corner of the car up and down a couple of times, then let go. It should stop bouncing in 2 or less osscelations Edit: I guess Motronic already covered it. Yay for reading comprehension Brigdh fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 27, 2012 |
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Jan 27, 2012 23:21
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redmercer posted:Before I just go get a bottle of Goo-Gone and a decent scraper, has anyone else any experience taking off fake car-phone antennas? Yeah...razor blade scraper. It's a 5 minute job tops. (I'm assuming this is on glass)
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Jan 28, 2012 00:37
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Ultimate stupid questions for me tonight. I filled up tonight and the gas pump was going insanely slow. As in 13 gallons took about 10 minutes. A guy at the next pump was having the same issue. For the last half gallon or so, it went even slower - that last gallon took about 3 minutes. What would cause this? I'm assuming their underground tanks were pretty much bone dry? It's the cheapest gas station for several miles and sees a shitload of business.. On that same line - this is the first time I've EVER seen the gauge on my car go past 7/8 - it actually went just past F, and took a lot more to fill up than I'm used to. The gauge was at 1/8 when I started and it took a bit over 13 gallons, normally it would take about 11 (15 gallon tank), and if I fill up when the low fuel light is on it'll take 12-14 (the light wasn't on yet). What the hell? When I tried to figure the MPG it also wound up far lower than what I expected (20 mpg vs my usual 25-27). Did my tank grow some extra space, or was the super slow filling letting it fill up further than usual? I don't try to top off or anything, I just let it fill until it shuts off on its own. VCR 2.0 posted:I just bought an 82 GMC Vandura G25 and I'm having a few issues starting it. When I try starting it up, the starter just clicks once. I've managed to get it started twice, and it seems to start fine after its warmed up. You've already made sure the battery is good (at least 12.3 volts before trying to start it) and there's no corrosion at the terminals, and you've also cleaned the terminals to be safe. Right? The "switch" they mentioned is probably the solenoid (if you're getting a click, the ignition switch is likely working fine). Check your positive cable where it connects to the battery and where it connects to the starter. Check your ground cable at the battery and at the engine block. Beyond that, just avoid rebuilt starters from AutoZone and Pep Boys and well, any chain store except for Napa. If you're going to get a rebuilt one, spend the extra $20 and go to Napa. It'll actually last more than a few weeks (or you can ask me about going through 6 starters in 3 months if you don't). The good news: Chevy small block parts are roughly the price of a few pounds of dirt. An 80s G25 probably has a 305 or 350, it might have a big block (but if it does, then parts are the price of 4 pounds of dirt instead of 3 pounds). You may be able to get the parts to rebuild the solenoid as well. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Jan 28, 2012 |
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Jan 28, 2012 10:17
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1995 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 automatic I want to flush the transmission fluid tomorrow but I am a little unclear as to how it should be done. I need to pull the pan to change the filter so I am just going to let that drain as much as possible. Then I change the filter and pan gasket and replace the pan. After that, how do I go about flushing the old fluid out? Should I pull a line off of the transmission cooler and run the engine while adding fluid until clean fluid comes out?
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Jan 29, 2012 01:04
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:1995 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 automatic You don't flush it, not without a machine. You will do a 2/3 or more fluid change by dropping the pan, and that's a good thing (unless you've been getting it flushed regularly at 50-65k intervals since new).
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Jan 29, 2012 01:21
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The transmission is a 4r55E and dropping the pan will get me ~3 quarts. The whole system is ~9.5 quarts. Does the fluid degrade or wear over time? EDIT: The truck is lifted and I don't need to jack it up so can I just leave it on my slightly angled driveway in park and do this? Hotbod Handsomeface fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 01:30
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I want to sell my car and I have some questions. It still has 6k left on the loan. I have never sold a car before so its all new to me. How are these situations normally handled in a private party sale so that the car gets paid off and the buyer gets the title? I am in California if that matters. Other than getting my car detailed, is there something I should do to get the most money for it? If they want to test drive it what do I need from them to make sure I am protected? A copy of their license and insurance? Its a 2004 black BMW Z4 with 52k miles on it 5 speed manual Red leather sport and premium package. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 01:33
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This is more an oddly specific question than a stupid one, but does anyone know the purpose of the black allen-head screws near the fuel outlets of this variety of Bosch CIS fuel distributor? I'm guessing they're related to the volume of fuel that each injector receives, but I haven't been able to find a conclusive answer by Googling. Like so: 
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Jan 29, 2012 02:25
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If I was going to take over someone's car lease, what should I be on the lookout for so i don't get screwed when it comes time to turn the car in?
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Jan 29, 2012 02:45
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El Kabong posted:If I was going to take over someone's car lease, what should I be on the lookout for so i don't get screwed when it comes time to turn the car in? What was going through your head when you decided it was a good idea to take someone elses's lease? I dunno, read the section (if it exists) about adding yourself to the lease in the contract? I'd also get it inspected to make sure its not horribly broken and thus you are on the hook for repairs when you turn it in.
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Jan 29, 2012 03:24
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Brigdh posted:What was going through your head when you decided it was a good idea to take someone elses's lease? I want to find out about potential scams. Also, reread the first word of my post. This is what I'm thinking of doing because I need a car for about a year, but don't want to buy one. El Kabong fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 05:24
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The guy with the Accord lives where I do, and lawls if he thinks that paint job is going to last more than 12 days. I washed my car a week ago and it's already coated in grime, and we've had a dry winter to boot. Kind of curious if he happened to purchase the Accord I just junked, though. It wasn't that rusty (for a 22 year old car). Small questions: 1995 Oldsmobile 88 and the power steering pump whines when the wheel is turned all the way to one side at idle. Can't hear it while driving, but I wouldn't ever turn the wheel aaaall the way while driving anyway. Is this normal operation or should I count on replacing it soon? Also, I'm losing brake fluid. It's either the wheel cylinder or the master cylinder based on the location. Would I see brake fluid around the master cylinder if it were leaking or do I need to take the wheel off? Dumb question: What happens if you throw an automatic into neutral while in motion? E: VVV Thanks. How about the brakes?  What if you try to put it back into gear while still in motion? BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 05:45
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NancyPants posted:The guy with the Accord lives where I do, and lawls if he thinks that paint job is going to last more than 12 days. I washed my car a week ago and it's already coated in grime, and we've had a dry winter to boot. 1: This is normal. 2: It will go into neutral.
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Jan 29, 2012 05:55
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Can anyone identify the car in the picture? The screenshot is from the movie The Guard, filmed in Ireland in 2011. There was nothing in the credits, no luck on tineye or google. Help me AI, you're my only hope!
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Jan 29, 2012 07:10
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Looks like a Ford Capri Mk3 to me.
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Jan 29, 2012 07:21
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go_banana posted:Looks like a Ford Capri Mk3 to me. Awesome, thank you much.
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Jan 29, 2012 07:27
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Croc Monster posted:Awesome, thank you much. In the future, you should have some luck with the Internet Movie Car Database: http://imcdb.org/movie_1540133-The-Guard.html
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Jan 29, 2012 07:32
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TIL. Didn't know such a site existed. Thanks for the pointer.
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Jan 29, 2012 07:48
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This is definitely a stupid question. I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 that I sometimes like to drive rather fast, is there anything I could do to make it more efficiently handle my demands? A friend of mine has mentioned cold air intakes and other various small performance upgrades, but I was thinking there might be something better I could do to not hurt the car when I am uh, driving rather fast.
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Jan 29, 2012 08:46
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Logtar posted:This is definitely a stupid question. I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 that I sometimes like to drive rather fast, is there anything I could do to make it more efficiently handle my demands? A friend of mine has mentioned cold air intakes and other various small performance upgrades, but I was thinking there might be something better I could do to not hurt the car when I am uh, driving rather fast. Just keep driving it as fast as it can take and leave suspension or "power" mods alone. If you're feeling really generous on yourself, get some nicer tires.
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Jan 29, 2012 09:07
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Logtar posted:This is definitely a stupid question. I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 that I sometimes like to drive rather fast, is there anything I could do to make it more efficiently handle my demands? A friend of mine has mentioned cold air intakes and other various small performance upgrades, but I was thinking there might be something better I could do to not hurt the car when I am uh, driving rather fast. The only thing coming to mind is a nitrous kit, and we'll just say that shortens the life of your engine rather significantly (and transmission if it's automatic, otherwise clutch). That's not exactly a car with much in the way of performance enhancements. All you can do to, uh, not hurt the car when you uh, drive rather fast, is stay on top of maintenance. A cold air intake, header, and exhaust might add SOME power, but not much on a N/A 4 cylinder - and they would move your power band (the RPMs where your engine makes peak power) higher, and as a consequence, you'd likely lose some low RPM power. You're better off keeping it stock and saving up for something with more aftermarket support. Especially if it's automatic. Suspension work will help it seem faster, and if you happen to stumble across the right combination, might actually make it handle better - but a proper suspension setup will cost more than a 2001 Saturn is worth. If you want cheap fun with a shitload of aftermarket, get a 90s Civic or Integra. edit: vvvv actually, you probably do have a bit more power, at least at low RPMs. 90s Civics make most of their power at high RPMS - the EX (VTEC) version makes 100% at high RPMs. Civics aren't faster than your car, but they have a lot more aftermarket support and they might as well be legos shared with Integras. I used to own a 96 Civic EX (top of the line VTEC model), the VTEC version had a whole 130 hp (less for DX/LX). No Si for USDM in 96. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 09:35
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Alright guys, thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning on putting much into the car for anything other than maintenance anyway, and that solidified that. One of my friends from class drives a '96 Civic with some performance tweaks and I regularly beat him when we race, so at least the car has that going for it. I just think he's bad at shifting.
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Jan 29, 2012 11:31
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Logtar posted:Alright guys, thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning on putting much into the car for anything other than maintenance anyway, and that solidified that. One of my friends from class drives a '96 Civic with some performance tweaks and I regularly beat him when we race, so at least the car has that going for it. I just think he's bad at shifting.
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Jan 29, 2012 15:25
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So my 2002 V40 diesel Volvo won't start. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. Also, it's 15 degrees outside. What are my options? Glow plugs?
awesome-express fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jan 29, 2012 |
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Jan 29, 2012 17:30
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some texas redneck posted:Ultimate stupid questions for me tonight. Dirty filter (on the gas pumps) is a common reason for everyone pumping to have this problem. That can include filters that detect water mixed in with the gasoline.
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Jan 29, 2012 18:09
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:EDIT: The truck is lifted and I don't need to jack it up so can I just leave it on my slightly angled driveway in park and do this? That is what I do with my Explorer. Drop the pan starting at the lowest corner first, remove the bolts in order from closest to that corner to farthest. Let the fluid drain slowly into your drain pan at each bolt to not make a mess. Or get a kiddie pool from WalMart to catch it all.
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Jan 29, 2012 18:33
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Here is my dumb question: I have a '95 Toyota Tacoma & the passenger side 3-point seat belt receiver fell apart. The belt itself and the buckle are fine -- only the receiver (the thing you buckle into) is broken. I've tried a Pick & Pull, but ended up wasting a lot of time since the ostensible match (a Camry?) didn't actually have the right fit with the buckle. How can I order this part? When I look online I see $100+ full replacements for 3-point seat belts, but that seems crazy when what I need is just the $10 receiver...
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Jan 29, 2012 19:15
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:That is what I do with my Explorer. Drop the pan starting at the lowest corner first, remove the bolts in order from closest to that corner to farthest. Let the fluid drain slowly into your drain pan at each bolt to not make a mess. Or get a kiddie pool from WalMart to catch it all. Do you do a full flush or just the few quarts that were in the pan?
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Jan 29, 2012 19:22
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How do manufacturers decide on a redline for their engine? My car doesn't have any red marks on the rev counter, does that mean I can't over rev it, and some motorbikes for example go up to 16k rpm, I saw a cosworth car engine go up to 11 and my last car had a 7k redline. Is it a case of working out what force the rotating components can take and then working out which is the limiting factor, building in some safety margin? Is it the speed at which valves can be returned by their springs?
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Jan 29, 2012 20:07
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Crankit posted:How do manufacturers decide on a redline for their engine? My car doesn't have any red marks on the rev counter, does that mean I can't over rev it, and some motorbikes for example go up to 16k rpm, I saw a cosworth car engine go up to 11 and my last car had a 7k redline. And many other factors, like the 'speed' the lubrication system can keep up with (cylinder, crank bearings, cam bearings, etc). What engine?
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Jan 29, 2012 20:25
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Geirskogul posted:And many other factors, like the 'speed' the lubrication system can keep up with (cylinder, crank bearings, cam bearings, etc). What engine? I've got a Renault Clio 1.4 petrol.
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Jan 29, 2012 20:29
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