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dyne posted:This doesn't really help you, but if you register your ridgid tools for the lifetime service agreement, you get free battery replacements. Only for three years. The tools themselves they'll replace lifetime. Batteries are three years.
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Jan 10, 2012 05:47
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| # ? May 17, 2024 02:58 |
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It covers the batteries for life as wellquote:Agreement provides the original owner of qualifying RIDGIDŽ Brand tools a lifetime of free replacement batteries, free service and free replacement parts subject to the limitations set forth below. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...catalogId=10053
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Jan 10, 2012 06:17
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A new HF opened, 5 minutes from my house... My first trip was yesterday. The store is only a few days open and it hasn't gotten the Harbor Freight smell yet. I picked up a tool case for my Milwaukee impact so I can carry all the bits and sockets, extensions, extra batteries etc that the provided case has little or no room for. Oh and some lube for my Skil saw and a new set of wire pulling sticks. Some Deep impact sockets, and a tiny S-Biner. I needed none of this, really.
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Jan 14, 2012 23:02
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I'm highly biased towards these Sheffield foldback razor knives: http://www.sheffield-tools.com/products/show/12613 I do tons of work with sheetrock and have learned to despise any razor knife with a sliding mechanism or with a button release. Dust gumming up the sliding mechanisms and the pocket for the blade on those knives is a pointless annoyance compared to a type of knife that won't be affected by dust at all. More than that, button releases are my biggest personal peeve with razor knives, far too easy to bump and lose your blade when trying to make an awkward cut. These are rather inexpensive, less than $10 at a major retailer. Pretty easily found (Walmart just started stocking them again recently after a year or more of nothing but terrible Stanley knives); Probably still carried at Ace Hardware as well. That being said I feel a little silly being more passionate about my razor knives than almost any other tool I use. The337th fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jan 30, 2012 |
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Jan 30, 2012 07:44
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The337th posted:I'm highly biased towards these Sheffield foldback razor knives: http://www.sheffield-tools.com/products/show/12613 I know I can attach a carbine hook by using a ring inside the hole at the back but then the whole thing hangs pretty far down. In my case it would mean the thing would hit my balls in case it got a good swing.
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Jan 30, 2012 10:29
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I don't have Hands on experience with them, but the Home depot has a couple of options that look like they would fit what you need. I've never tried one because I have never had the need for one but they are inexpensive enough to buy one and throw it in the back of the tool box if you don't like it.
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Jan 30, 2012 16:03
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The337th posted:I'm highly biased towards these Sheffield foldback razor knives: http://www.sheffield-tools.com/products/show/12613 Don't buy the harbor freight version of these, they are poo poo. Mine keeps closing, the mechanism slips.
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Jan 31, 2012 06:40
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Reporting back on the Gerber EAB. I like it since it doesnt gum up a lot. But I keep having to tighten the screw that lets the knife open so it doesnt have any slop when fully open. Anyone know if they make a tool to tighten a bolt with 2 notches on each side of it?
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Feb 1, 2012 03:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Reporting back on the Gerber EAB. I like it since it doesnt gum up a lot. But I keep having to tighten the screw that lets the knife open so it doesnt have any slop when fully open. Anyone know if they make a tool to tighten a bolt with 2 notches on each side of it? Depending on how big it is, you may be able to get away with using a 2 prong security screwdriver bit like THIS:  I also recommend that you get yourself some locktite and you shouldnt have to tighten it ever again.
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Feb 1, 2012 06:43
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iForge posted:Depending on how big it is, you may be able to get away with using a 2 prong security screwdriver bit like THIS: That's awesome. I never realized they made that. I will try to find one at home depot. Would that be in electrical since I know they have a lot of tamper proof screw drivers. And ya I think you're right on the lock tight. I may have to pick some up.
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Feb 1, 2012 06:57
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If HomeDepot has it, it will be in the general tools section. I have a set of bits from HF like this one and it has a couple different sizes of that style bit. They are pretty decent quality too.
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Feb 1, 2012 08:37
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Reporting back on the Gerber EAB. I like it since it doesnt gum up a lot. But I keep having to tighten the screw that lets the knife open so it doesnt have any slop when fully open. Anyone know if they make a tool to tighten a bolt with 2 notches on each side of it?
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Feb 1, 2012 11:18
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Iskariot posted:I like the look of it. Is there room in the handle to drill a 5mm hole for a carbine hook and still allow the blade to fully close? No the entire blade takes up the handle space. You could put a keychain loop off of the belt clip and then hang the clip from their though.
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Feb 1, 2012 15:52
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drat. I really liked the shape and size of it. I'm trying to keep it as small(and short given that I have to attach a carbine hook to it) as possible. I guess I could try to use a ring of some sort. With a fixed hook, it's easier to clasp it on my work pants with gloves. If there are several links this will be difficult. It's baffling that every god drat foldout knife like this doesn't have a decent hole for a hook. Belt clips are useless when I work outside and have a jacket on and the whole point is being able to attach and detach with just one hand. I found a single regular foldout with what I have in mind: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202971869/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 But regular blades are a PITA as I want something I can cut into concrete and otherwise ruin and simply change the blade in a matter of seconds. In other tool news: I finally ponied up the cash for rails for my Mafell track saw. Expensive as hell but the quality is superb. This package is the one I got: http://www.axminster.co.uk/mafell-mafell-guide-rail-kit-2-x-16m-rails-connector-clamps-and-bag-prod807328/ I've seen a few carpenters complain about the Festool rails. Apparently the edges aren't always at a 90 degree angle (easily fixed by trimming off a millimeter or two on a mitre saw) and the joint mechanism isn't perfect. The Mafell rails are perfect in that regard. I think I'm going to chop one of the rails in two, one 60cm piece and one 100cm. That way I have smaller rails for appropriate tasks. I'll still be able to cut 260cm with the longest rails joined.
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Feb 2, 2012 10:09
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I have of couple of tables I need to sand down and re-finish. I don't have a power sander that's in good working condition, and was thinking about buying an random orbit sander. I'd prefer something on a budget, about $60 maybe? Feel free to recommend another type of sander yall think would be better. I was looking at this or something like it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241413-70-382_0__?productId=3275809&Ntt=orbit+sander&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dorbit%2Bsander&facetInfo=
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Feb 6, 2012 01:56
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Mr_Ruckus posted:I was looking at this or something like it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241413-70-382_0__?productId=3275809&Ntt=orbit+sander&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dorbit%2Bsander&facetInfo= I have an older (7-8 years) version of this and my only complaint is that the dust catcher was just a foam tube on a plastic sleeve and used to vibrate off until I put a screw through it. Eventually I put on a dust bag from another PC tool. But the dust catcher in the picture looks nothing like mine so hopefully they fixed that problem. I did have to replace the sanding pad after my wife tried to sand the floor with it (probably overheated it) but the pad was inexpensive and easy to find. It's the only ROS I've used so I can't compare it but I haven't felt any inclination to shop for a different one.
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Feb 6, 2012 06:13
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My Dewalt ROS has the same type of dust bag and connector as that PC. I've bumped it off a few times but it isn't hugely annoying. Get some of the cheap packs of Mirka sandpaper off Amazon too. Have you considered using a card scraper instead, at least for removing the old finish? The Wood Whisperer has a few videos on them.
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Feb 6, 2012 07:28
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Have you considered using a card scraper instead, at least for removing the old finish? The Wood Whisperer has a few videos on them. I hadn't considered that. Although getting the burnishing sounds like it could be a pain. Or does it just sound harder than it is?
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Feb 6, 2012 12:49
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Have you watched the videos? It doesn't look that difficult. I can't speak from experience though, my scraper and burnisher are still new in their packaging since I've taken my time getting sharpening stones. http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-14-barely-scraping-by/ http://thewoodwhisperer.com/scraper-sharpening-w-william-ng/ I think you'll still need an ROS for the final finish sanding, but a scraper should be a lot nicer for removing the existing finish instead of gumming up lots of sanding discs with it.
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Feb 6, 2012 17:26
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Setting a burr on a card scraper is no big deal and you can use a screwdriver instead of a burnisher. Its LOADS easier than wasting sandpaper full of finish. Don't use it like you would to cut through wood in smoothing operations. Literally rest the edge of the card on your finished surface, pull towards you applying almost no pressure and bring the card down towards you until you feel the burr catch the surface or see flaky finish come up in the burr. Obviously go with the grain and mind the 90 degree corners of the scraper so that you don't scratch your table. Any scratches/dents can be fixed with a soldering iron once you get the finish off. Put a 1/2 drop of water in the dent, touch the water with your soldering iron lightly til it boils into the wood and the dent should pop up. Don't hold it in the wood or it'll burn. This won't work with shears, punctures etc, only dents.
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Feb 6, 2012 18:09
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I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I've never been able to raise a bur on a scraper, I've tried screwdrivers and other things but nada.
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Feb 6, 2012 21:01
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I have a dewalt 4.5" angle grinder that I somehow lost the wrench it came with to work the retaining nut. Where can I get new one, or what else can I use? I figured this would be something easy to replace but I haven't had much luck so far. I wonder if I am just looking under the wrong terms.
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Feb 7, 2012 02:16
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Is the wrench something like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-pin-wrench-36554.html
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Feb 7, 2012 02:44
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thats it, or pretty close. The one that came with it was of course a fixed size for the grinder, but it looks pretty similar.
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Feb 7, 2012 04:06
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nesbit37 posted:I have a dewalt 4.5" angle grinder that I somehow lost the wrench it came with to work the retaining nut. Where can I get new one, or what else can I use? I figured this would be something easy to replace but I haven't had much luck so far. I wonder if I am just looking under the wrong terms. Try DeWalt part # 401680-00 or 30076-00 and see if either of those match what you are looking for. WashinMyGoat fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Feb 7, 2012 |
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Feb 7, 2012 05:34
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If you're feeling strong, throw on a pair of gloves and just unscrew it by holding onto the grinding wheel, hold it close to your chest and get a bunch of leverage by pulling your arms apart and back. It works great, unless you put the wheel on with one of the wrenches or you wore the wheel down really far. Sometimes just a palm grip on a very worn down wheel will do it too.
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Feb 7, 2012 08:43
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Pro tip: As long as: -Its one of those thin, cheap stamped steel wrenches -The nubs are the right size or smaller than the holes in yours -The spacing is equal to or farther apart than the ones in yours You can simply put the tip of the forked part in a bench vise and tighten until it is the right spacing.
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Feb 7, 2012 20:00
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Great, thanks everyone. I already tried wrenching it apart with my gloved hands but no go. I am going to be near a harbor freight this weekend and will see if they have one of those pin wrenches in stock and if it will fit. If not, I will check on those part numbers.
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Feb 7, 2012 21:36
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Just use channel locks on it. I do this at work all the time.
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Feb 7, 2012 23:51
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Meh, piece of wood with two nails in it spaced apart the same. Use the grinder you're fixing to cut the nails down to 1/2" stubs.
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Feb 8, 2012 02:31
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Eli's Adventure posted:Just use channel locks on it. I do this at work all the time. That is just as bad as using channel locks on a drill because you don't have a chuck key. If you don't care about scaring the tool itself then go for it but I would rather use the proper tool.
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Feb 8, 2012 03:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That is just as bad as using channel locks on a drill because you don't have a chuck key. If you don't care about scaring the tool itself then go for it but I would rather use the proper tool. <---- Guilty. I use a pipe wrench on my lovely Milwaukee corded hammer drill because I can never remember to pick up a key for it when I'm in the hardware store. This has gone on for atleast 2 months.
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Feb 8, 2012 12:44
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wormil posted:I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I've never been able to raise a bur on a scraper, I've tried screwdrivers and other things but nada. The two links above and the one TWW linked by Brian Boggs (http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=5299) The method TWW uses in episode 14 linked above is the way I've done it, the two part burnishing. Its easy to overdo it and mess up the burr. Once you feel a burr you should press your thumbs into the middle and push the scraper down the wood changing the angle it makes with the wood, starting with a small acute angle and bringing it up until you feel it bite the wood. Having a few good sharpened scrapers around will change your goddamn life.
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Feb 8, 2012 17:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That is just as bad as using channel locks on a drill because you don't have a chuck key. If you don't care about scaring the tool itself then go for it but I would rather use the proper tool. I have had to do this many times. When I do I use a piece of paper or maybe a torn latex glove between the jaws and part. Greatly reduces or eliminates scratching completely.
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Feb 9, 2012 15:23
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Ordered a scraper! It was cheap enough I figure it won't hurt to try one out.
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Feb 10, 2012 00:38
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That's awesome, but my problem with things like that are I just don't know when to stop. How do you know when you're "done" when you're using a scraper? With a sander I know when I'm done because I've run out of sanding pads and am cursing ever starting the refinishing project.
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Feb 10, 2012 15:19
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Jared592 posted:That's awesome, but my problem with things like that are I just don't know when to stop. How do you know when you're "done" when you're using a scraper? With a sander I know when I'm done because I've run out of sanding pads and am cursing ever starting the refinishing project. For me it's when my thumbs fall off.
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Feb 10, 2012 18:11
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Sometimes it seems the more I sand, the more defects I uncover and need to sand out.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:31
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wormil posted:Sometimes it seems the more I sand, the more defects I uncover and need to sand out. Woodworkers are notorious perfectionists, sometimes to a fault. I blame crappy veneers and plastics teaching us that the only texture an object should have is glassy smooth.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:42
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| # ? May 17, 2024 02:58 |
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wormil posted:Sometimes it seems the more I sand, the more defects I uncover and need to sand out. Those aren't defects, thats character god drat it.
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Feb 11, 2012 00:30
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