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Bash Ironfist posted:I'm pretty sure you punish it by not letting it eat you. I think you yell and hit the orca. The orca doesn't feel it or really care, but it should makes you feel better! Vets are sometimes associated with trainers, but most trainers are self-employed or work for training facilities (behaviorists are more rare than trainers and vet behaviorists, probably associated with hospitals, are even more rare). If you're just starting out and have no experience yet, just taking some classes with your dog will teach you a ton about the fundamentals of dog training. Then you'll also get to know your trainer and learn about seminars you can attend or if there is somewhere you can assist or intern. I know my trainer takes interns, but I think you need some experience before you can make the most of that type of thing. Also, you can always volunteer at shelters, which will often have ties to trainers in your area.
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Jan 30, 2012 23:51
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Kiri koli posted:I think you yell and hit the orca. The orca doesn't feel it or really care, but it should makes you feel better! Ah, that's a good place to start! I'll try that. Pretty strapped for cash right now, but hopefully there are trainers that do free classes once and a while. There's also a dog/cat shelter near me, I'll go in there and talk to them too, thanks! Also: If an orca poops, I'm pretty sure you have to rub it's nose in it.
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Jan 31, 2012 00:04
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Kiri koli posted:Also, you can always volunteer at shelters, which will often have ties to trainers in your area. This is how I got my internship. I began volunteering, started networking and getting to know the local animal community, eventually someone found I was interested in behavior and suggested I Facebook friend the trainer at KHS, and then later another person suggested I ask about interning with her. She'd already seen some stuff I posted on FB about behavior and liked what she saw, so the interview was really just a formality. Reading about clicker training and watching YouTube videos is one thing, but having one-on-one training with a great instructor has been amazing and actually practicing it is a whole 'nother ball game. She does great seminars and I asked if she ever thought about putting them on YouTube but unfortunately she's awfully self-conscious about it. Now keep in mind I've been volunteering since September of 2010 and only just got the internship at the beginning of this month, so don't worry about rushing it and just do some book learnin' in the meantime. I get the feeling my trainer loves that I already knew the basics and the vocabulary.
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Jan 31, 2012 03:43
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Skizzles posted:This is how I got my internship. I began volunteering, started networking and getting to know the local animal community, eventually someone found I was interested in behavior and suggested I Facebook friend the trainer at KHS, and then later another person suggested I ask about interning with her. She'd already seen some stuff I posted on FB about behavior and liked what she saw, so the interview was really just a formality. Thanks for the info Skizzles. Gonna go down to the shelter tomorrow and fill out the volunteer paperwork! I do have a question: Feldman has been doing this thing today where when he's on the leash, he'll stop and kind of cringe down and to the side, like he thinks I'm about to smack him in the face or something. I don't recall yelling at him or anything to frighten him, so why is he suddenly showing this behavior?
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Jan 31, 2012 03:48
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Do you think your mom has by any chance been intimidating him somehow? Is there anything else going on in the environment when he does it (like cars, people, dogs)?
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Jan 31, 2012 04:02
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Skizzles posted:Do you think your mom has by any chance been intimidating him somehow out on walks? Is there anything else going on in the environment when he does it (like cars, people, dogs)? Hmm. I don't think it's my mom. She does the whole 'omg so excited for walkies!' thing, so she's good there. We do give him a bit of a tug if he tries to eat rocks off the ground, but not HARD, just a little nudge and a 'feh!' Cars do drive down our street pretty often. Could it be them? Thing is, he did it in the house too, so he doesn't just do it outside.
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Jan 31, 2012 04:04
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It's hard to say. Some dogs are more sensitive than others and it doesn't take much to upset them. I would avoid any leash tugging period and work on redirecting him when he decides to be retarded and eat rocks. Bring treats or a toy. In the meantime, you should work on Leave It, which Kikopup just put up some great videos for: Lesson 1 and Lesson 2. She'll be coming out with a 3rd one soon. Like I said, it's really hard to say what's with the cowering behavior without knowing how everyone's behaving around him.
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Jan 31, 2012 04:10
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My mom's dog would act all weird towards birds. We didn't understand why, but then one day he was out in the yard and the crows started dive bombing him! It could be something bizarre like that.
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Jan 31, 2012 11:38
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We had an interesting dog training session yesterday that highlighted the importance of paying attention to your dog's body language, so I thought I would share it. We've been working on Psyche's problem with reaching, bending, picking things up, etc. The weather was nice, so we decided to work outside, and we've already progressed a ton with this issue, so it was time for close-up work, which meant a muzzle for Psyche. For this particular exercise, we sat still (me holding Psyche's harness because she's a jumper) and the trainer moved toward us, dropping an object on the ground and picking it up again. She started far away and turned to the side, and then moved closer and reoriented so she was facing and reaching straight toward Psyche (head-on is harder for her). Psyche was being a good girl and was pretty bored with the whole exercise. So bored that she laid down pretty much right away and kicked out a leg. That part was great. What was weird was that she laid down to the side so she was facing away from the trainer (and would have to be prompted to look at her). So the trainer had to move around so she was in front of Psyche again. So we kept going and would stop every once in a while to reset, get Psyche up and give her a break, and then start again. And every time, Psyche would lay down to the side so the trainer would have to rotate around to get back in front of her. By about the fourth iteration, we were confused and were talking about it and suddenly, we had an ''oh poo poo' moment and realized that Psyche was laying that way on purpose. She was using very polite doggie language of turning to the side to tell us to knock it off! One of Psyche's main problems is that she expresses herself poorly (usually with a lot of jumping and barking) and so this was awesome! Once we realized, we ended that exercise and moved on to another one. We'll still practice that kind of thing, of course, but it was very nice to see Psyche displaying some self-control and nice signals. I think rewarding and encouraging polite signals is something that is great for all dog handlers to do (it can help dog-dog interactions and help dogs express their stress/excitement without having to resort to growling or other aggressive displays), but it often gets overlooked because it's pretty drat hard for us to effectively speak dog. Anyway, I thought that was interesting. We also had a nice example of stacked triggers because the only time Psyche jumped during the session was when our neighbor came out for a smoke, which stacked on a particularly ambitious reach and pushed her into a reaction.
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Feb 1, 2012 04:12
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Hooray for cut-off signals.  The trainer I intern with just gave a seminar on dog body language and it was awesome. Since she isn't interested in putting her seminars on YouTube I think I'm gonna ask her if I can basically use the slides/clips she uses and paraphrase what she said into text and make it into a video to put up, 'cause it was really helpful stuff. On Feb. 24th she's giving a seminar on clicker training for shelter dogs, so that'll be fun. This Friday we're doing a thing on resource guarding. I am excited. behavior nerds Skizzles fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Feb 1, 2012 |
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Feb 1, 2012 05:10
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Skizzles posted:Hooray for cut-off signals. Please please do this! I put in my application to volunteer at the Langue foundation today. In the mean time, any and all stuff you can post will be so helpful! Just wanna learn all about dogs and training.
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Feb 1, 2012 05:27
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I want to have behavior nerds around here.  I'm still having a lot of frustration, and few chances to work on it outside the home. Ephy still is reactive to other dogs and very over-excited every time we try to introduce her to acquaintance and friend's dogs. We've had a few successful introductions but she's still all over them trying to get them to play with her when they want nothing to do with her. We're continuing because I think it's helping her learn to respect other dog's boundaries. I think this low threshold for excitement affects everything we try to do. We've officially had her for a year and I still can't manage to train her to loose leash walk. Everything in the world is so much more interesting than me, even with hot steak. She's learned to yo-yo every time I ask her to come back and walk next to me, then she's off again. Since I run her next to the bike a few times a week, her preferred speed is definitely a trot, so she hates having to just walk I think. It's a really frustrating negative circle- I don't want to walk her because of the possibility of running into another dog and having to deal with her whining and pulling and getting too jazzed up to pay attention for 5 minutes, and because she won't listen to me further than a block away, so she doesn't get enough exercise, so she's harder to control.... I've looked into behaviorists since I had a poor experience with a trainer and reactivity classes in my area and the closest is over 2 hours away in Davis. I did ask my vet for a recommendation and she got back to me with a local trainer who does BAT so I'm going to look into that again. Ephy's such a doll at home, I've had wonderful success the last two weeks working on a beg and having her allow me to use the dremel on her nails. But leaving the house gets me so anxious and I so rarely come home from a walk happy, it's really draining.
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Feb 1, 2012 05:29
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Bash Ironfist posted:Please please do this! I put in my application to volunteer at the Langue foundation today. In the mean time, any and all stuff you can post will be so helpful! Well if I do it'll take a while because I know NOTHING about video editing and I'm a perfectionist.  edit: Oh awesome, apparently Jean Donaldson has a lecture up on body language: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VmWizZueFQ I haven't yet watched it but I know she's a highly recommended author by PIers. Skizzles fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 1, 2012 |
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Feb 1, 2012 06:09
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Gonktastic posted:Ephy still is reactive to other dogs and very over-excited every time we try to introduce her to acquaintance and friend's dogs. This is basically what my dog is like, and I didn't think it could get more frustrating...until she was bitten by another dog at a dog park. Now un addition to pulling towards other dogs she may randomly decide to bark at them... It's helped to always have treats with me and to stream them at her (ideally) before another dog enters her threshold. Maybe in your case that'll make you more interesting than the dogs she sees.
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Feb 1, 2012 06:37
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Dexter gets grumpy with other dogs and I think this is the path it goes on. 1. Dex sees other dog, he wags his tail and makes friendly face 2. Dog sees him 3. He wants to greet but has poor social skills and starts barking and leaping excitedly 4. Other dog is like "oh crap that thing is big and it's leaping and barking" 5. Dexter sees other dog shrink back or posture 6. Dexter still wants to see dog but can't because the other dog is nervous/behind a fence/other dog owner is nervous 7. Dexter starts growling and being a dick because he's frustrated he can't go meet the now intimidated dog and if the other dog postures he goes into "protect owner" mode. He'll also bark at the person walking the dog if they act nervous around him. Is this something that more socialization could help with? I have a co-worker who also has really big dogs that are friendly and he is open to letting the dogs meet and play. My plan was to go for a walk with Dex and the younger, more playful dog then let them meet and greet when they're good and tired. I think that the younger,more playful one is necessary because Dexter likes to run around like a dingbat and wrestle. I don't want the other dog to get pissed at him right away just for wanting to wrestle, hah. Dex knows my friend and likes him just fine, so my friend's presence shouldn't factor into the equation too much. I was thinking of letting them meet in a neutral but un-restrained place. Like the baseball diamond dragging 20 foot leads? Is this a terrible idea? He does fine with the neighbor's dog through the fence because they see each other all the time. He was fine with other dogs in the shelter. He doesn't mind dogs on leashes across the street, but dogs behind fences or on the sidewalk coming towards us are usually very exciting. I typically just walk off of the sidewalk and put him in a sit with a treat waterfall until the other dog is past us. A loose pittie once came up to us on a walk and he just tried to hump it. I feel like if he got more interaction with dogs besides the Biscuit, he wouldn't be so OMGexcited to see them. Am I at least somewhat on the right track?
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Feb 1, 2012 07:31
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Gonktastic posted:Ephy still is reactive to other dogs and very over-excited every time we try to introduce her to acquaintance and friend's dogs. We've had a few successful introductions but she's still all over them trying to get them to play with her when they want nothing to do with her. We're continuing because I think it's helping her learn to respect other dog's boundaries. I am having a similar issue with Campbell. Everything in the outside world is way more interesting to him. I've had him off leash playing with a bunch of dogs at the park, and he will come back to me most of the time when I ask him to, but if he gets too excited, there is no chance of it happening. The only thing that gets his attention is if I walk away and he gets worried so will come after me that way. When we are out on the extending leash I will let him sniff away from me then call him back and give him a treat, but when other dogs are around it's a different story. He just wants to play with them and I don't think he understands yet that not every dog wants to play too. A lot of people I've spoke with at the park say their dogs were the same when they were younger, but now know which dogs to approach and which ones to leave, but I don't know how they figure that out? He also does the yo yo thing where he will come back for the treat but then is straight off back to sniffing. I'm not really sure how to solve it.
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Feb 1, 2012 14:25
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Skizzles posted:Well if I do it'll take a while because I know NOTHING about video editing and I'm a perfectionist. I'm a video editor by profession and can try to answer questions for you if you have any, just PM me.
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Feb 1, 2012 15:44
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tiddlez posted:He also does the yo yo thing where he will come back for the treat but then is straight off back to sniffing. I'm not really sure how to solve it. What about having a treat that he can't gobble right away? Like, hold the treat in your hand so he can't eat it right away, or something like frozen pb in a Kong/on a stick, and try to keep him by your side for a few steps while he licks at it. If you can keep him at your side for a longer time you'd hopefully reinforce that behaviour, rather than rewarding him for yo yo-ing back and forth. Just so long as the treat is more smelly and enticing than whatever he could be smelling on the ground.
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Feb 1, 2012 15:53
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Gonktastic posted:I want to have behavior nerds around here. I can sympathize, as this happened to me right before we moved last summer. For like a month, just the thought of going outside was so stressful that I just didn't do it except when absolutely necessary. The problem is that that kind of stress won't go away on its own. So, if you need to, take a break, learn how to get your dog some exercise inside and then maybe try a reset where you find a new place to walk and resolve to not sweat the small stuff. Every encounter that Psyche has with another dog that isn't preplanned is a disaster, so I just make sure I walk during less crowded times, end the encounter as fast as possible, help my dog with her recovery, and then move on. It doesn't help me or her to dwell on past an unemotional assessment of what I could do better next time. For loose-leash walking, have you tried other head collars/harnesses? You probably have, but I can't remember. For both you and Silver Nitrate, I think it's important to remember that dogs don't generalize well. So yes, socialization is good (as long as its safe for everyone), but socializing with a known dog off-leash is not going to totally address your on-leash problems or strange dog problems, or dog park problems. Likewise, socializing with just any dog is not going to teach your dog better manners if the other dog has poor manners as well. I think what may help is separating greeting/play time from walk time, in that on walks (either on-leash or off), walk time is for walking and so your dog should learn to ignore other dogs (or at least take a peak and then bring the focus back to you for instructions). Greeting time is only for pre-arranged greetings/play dates. That way, you have a clear goal in that you want your reactive dog to be able to walk past another dog without reacting, rather than the nebulous goal of 'well, I don't want him to pay attention to THAT dog, but he could maybe greet THIS dog, if he does it politely', etc.
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Feb 1, 2012 16:09
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Gonktastic posted:I've looked into behaviorists since I had a poor experience with a trainer and reactivity classes in my area and the closest is over 2 hours away in Davis. I did ask my vet for a recommendation and she got back to me with a local trainer who does BAT so I'm going to look into that again. http://www.sfspca.org/veterinary-hospital/veterinary-services/behavior-modification I can personally and professionally vouch for Dr. Berger.
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Feb 1, 2012 21:24
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Topoisomerase posted:http://www.sfspca.org/veterinary-hospital/veterinary-services/behavior-modification  SF is still a far ways from me, but if this ends up being something that continues to effect our or her quality of life, I'll definitely take your recommendation! I don't know if I'm within her range, and I believe behaviorists especially like to observe home and comfortable area behavior, right?I'm really grateful that Kiri koli posts so much about reactivity class. It helped me realize what bullshit I was paying for. We've had much better results just doing some work at home and with neighbor's dogs than we did in 9 weeks of stressing her out in class. At the moment, I've been having great success walking her in the evenings. My boyfriend also has a way better time taking her out, but he runs her on the bike, and doesn't ever take her for a traditional walk. We can't walk her together due to... differences over what we find acceptable in her behavior. He's much more corrective and less patient with her. She likes him a lot better though, so she's always calmer and more willing to work with him. When Ephy sees a dog while walking with me she pulls and whines and wags like crazy, with him, apparently she listens to him as soon as he commands her back.
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Feb 1, 2012 21:58
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Gonktastic posted:At the moment, I've been having great success walking her in the evenings. My boyfriend also has a way better time taking her out, but he runs her on the bike, and doesn't ever take her for a traditional walk. We can't walk her together due to... differences over what we find acceptable in her behavior. He's much more corrective and less patient with her. She likes him a lot better though, so she's always calmer and more willing to work with him. When Ephy sees a dog while walking with me she pulls and whines and wags like crazy, with him, apparently she listens to him as soon as he commands her back. I'm glad my posting is interesting to someone. I remember what you said about your reactive dog classes and they did sound unproductive. I wanted to comment on this because a similar thing happens with me and my husband. Of course, I haven't seen your dog or how you two interact with her, so this may not apply. I primarily work with Psyche, I usually take charge of her reactive training and I have a lot more practice with it. My husband takes over when he has to, but he has pretty bad timing and his technique needs work. However, we have many examples of situations where, if I am working with her, it totally looks like she is disobeying and out of control, whereas with him, she seems calmer. And the reason is that historically he is the one that restrains her in really bad situations or situations where we have no other choice. He holds her at the vet, or if there's an off-leash dog jumping at her or whatever. And she is calm while being held, not because she is less fearful, but because she's learned to shut down in those situations. With some dogs, it doesn't take all that much to shut them down a bit, so I'm not suggesting your boyfriend is doing anything horrible, but if he is using corrections (even harsh words), he may be shutting down her behavior a bit and then it looks like she's more calm. This can actually be useful for certain situations that are avoidable, but of course, in the long run you don't want to shut down your dog's behavior because that can be dangerous, even if it looks like the proper result. So that may be why it seems like she 'likes him better'. If you look for it, you may be able to tell the difference in her body language. If it's obvious, you should take steps to resolve this with your boyfriend, you know, figure out what's working and what will lead to an undesirable result down the road. Training is always better when everyone is consistent anyway.
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Feb 1, 2012 23:07
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I was looking on the apdt website, and it recommended a book called :So You Want to be a Dog Trainer (2nd Edition) by Nicole Wilde" Anyone read this? The website you can buy it from also sells a book on 'energy healing with dogs' and 'wolfdogs A-Z' so I'm a little dubious about it.
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Feb 1, 2012 23:43
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Bash Ironfist posted:I was looking on the apdt website, and it recommended a book called :So You Want to be a Dog Trainer (2nd Edition) by Nicole Wilde" Apparently some training people really like the woo; the book I got for PISSmas on working with reactive dogs is very good but tends to recommend "energy" based things and homeopathic treatments for relaxing your dog. I would just say if the advice in the book seems useful, then go for it, but have your skeptic sensors on and if it uses words like "energy" or suggests herbal treatments for everything under the sky, just move on. I personally find that stuff really annoying.
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Feb 2, 2012 00:12
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Bash Ironfist posted:I was looking on the apdt website, and it recommended a book called :So You Want to be a Dog Trainer (2nd Edition) by Nicole Wilde" I haven't read it, mostly because I wanted a book that only dealt with the business side of operating a training business - I already went through 8 weeks of intensive coursework for the working-with-dogs part. That said, a lot of my classmates recommended that book and another one by her called One On One. She also has a nice package for new trainers that includes phone scripts, client interview forms, contracts (still want to get a lawyer in your own state to look over them, but that's hugely important to have), blank invoice forms, and other nice-to-have paperwork. The best thing you can possibly do in terms of making training a long term career is find someone who will teach you both the theory and the hands-on stuff. Don't be afraid to work really loving hard to get as much experience as you possibly can, and definitely don't shy away from critique. The best thing I ever did was enroll in the SSCS, because my instructor didn't pull any punches with us. The final was grueling and the graded hands-on work required you to put in 2 months worth of work with your dog. She wanted us all to succeed, but not at the expense of not knowing what we are doing. About 80% of us graduated on the first go-around. The others re-took the finals until we all had it. We didn't get our certs until EVERYONE passed, which also encouraged us to help each other out. We love having bi-monthly roundtables to talk about nuts and bolts of behavior, clients, business, etc. Find yourself a community like that, then spend as much time with them as you possibly can. Then make sure you know what it takes to run a business because that poo poo is the most tedious part aaargh
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Feb 2, 2012 00:24
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ButWhatIf posted:I haven't read it, mostly because I wanted a book that only dealt with the business side of operating a training business - I already went through 8 weeks of intensive coursework for the working-with-dogs part. That said, a lot of my classmates recommended that book and another one by her called One On One. She also has a nice package for new trainers that includes phone scripts, client interview forms, contracts (still want to get a lawyer in your own state to look over them, but that's hugely important to have), blank invoice forms, and other nice-to-have paperwork. Yeah, thanks for the info! There aren't a lot of trainers around here, it's mostly just petco and such. So it's hard to get a hold of individual trainers. But i've already put in a phone call to volunteer at a shelter, and I'm hunting around for someone to intern with. Hopefully I'll find someone willing to let me.
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Feb 2, 2012 00:29
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Bash Ironfist posted:Yeah, thanks for the info! There aren't a lot of trainers around here, it's mostly just petco and such. So it's hard to get a hold of individual trainers. But i've already put in a phone call to volunteer at a shelter, and I'm hunting around for someone to intern with. Hopefully I'll find someone willing to let me. Also check to see what CAAB's and ACAAB's are in your state. Those people have the best and most up-to-date info on behavior, and it's worth the effort (taking people out to coffee or lunch and pick their brains!) to get mentored by one! The IAABC should be able to help you find someone.
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Feb 2, 2012 00:37
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ButWhatIf posted:Also check to see what CAAB's and ACAAB's are in your state. Those people have the best and most up-to-date info on behavior, and it's worth the effort (taking people out to coffee or lunch and pick their brains!) to get mentored by one! The IAABC should be able to help you find someone. Yeah, I went though the list (3 people on there) and emailed 'em all. Just got a call saying the volunteer orientation is full for both February AND March for the shelter. So it looks like finding someone to let me intern with them is my only choice for now. edit: Vvv haha, nah not weird at all. It just made me discover that I really enjoy training and working with dogs. I've got nothing but time on my hands, so why not try to make a go at something I like to do so much! Deep Thoreau fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Feb 2, 2012 |
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Feb 2, 2012 00:52
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Bash Ironfist posted:Yeah, thanks for the info! There aren't a lot of trainers around here, it's mostly just petco and such. So it's hard to get a hold of individual trainers. But i've already put in a phone call to volunteer at a shelter, and I'm hunting around for someone to intern with. Hopefully I'll find someone willing to let me. I just wanted to say that I think its really awesome that you're using Feldman as an opportunity to try something new and learn a totally new skill set. I hope that doesn't sound weird.
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Feb 2, 2012 00:52
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Is there a good youtube for teaching Stay with a clicker? The ones I have found all have super amazing trained dogs and it's hard to tell good from bad when the dogs never dont follow directions. Have the puppy sit or down, say stay, then just start waiting longer before giving a treat? He starts to hop around not too long after he sits. The videos I have watched have said work on the release word 1st by releasing him during sit/down training. I really think I could make this pup walk backwards on his legs before being able to stay with his excitement level.
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Feb 2, 2012 03:08
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Are you working on training after he's had a walk to get his excess energy out? If not it could definitely help. I used Patricia McConnell's method to teach Shadow 'wait,' which uses body blocks, so eh. From what I understand with the clicker you should have him sit or lay down, then click for 1 second of staying still, then 3 seconds, and so on. Eventually take one step away, click for staying, then two steps, and so on. If he moves, he gets nothing from you, not even a word. You may have to back up and keep it easy if he keeps moving. Once he's reliably staying THEN you can add the cue word. But someone else here might know the method better than I. Skizzles fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Feb 2, 2012 |
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Feb 2, 2012 03:34
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I just read about a method for teaching a sustained Watch that might work here as well. First, if pup is overly excited, wait until he's a bit tired as Skizzles said. Then ask for a sit and give him a series of treats. Then do it again, but slowly lengthen the time in between treats so he has to wait longer. When he's looking like he gets the keep sitting thing, then start varying the time and number of treats so he loses the pattern. Then when he can hold a sit, you can start teaching stay more normally by taking a step away, then back, then two steps, etc. Keep adding length of time and distractions (separately) until he has a good stay. I don't use a clicker anymore for stay because I want my dog settled and I don't want to click, get her excited, and have her get up before I reward her. I tell her stay and then I do whatever (wait or move around or add distractions) and then I go to her, saying 'good girl!' and give her a treat while she's still staying. That way I'm not rewarding her for getting up. Then I release her with an 'okay!' and gesture. She doesn't always get up, so sometimes I treat her again for following the release or a throw a treat to make her get up so I can put her in a stay again.
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Feb 2, 2012 04:28
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Oh yes that reminds me, when you get to the stepping away part of teaching stay, always come back to the dog to reward them. Some people make the mistake of getting all excited with a "GOOD BOY!" or whatever which causes the dog to come to them, and then of course you're rewarding for that instead of the stay.
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Feb 2, 2012 04:32
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We're working with a trainer to help us with our pup's dog/dog aggression. We just had our first class with her and while I really like her and I think she's really going to help us in the long run, some of the stuff she's telling us just sounds crazypants. We started talking about what we're feeding him (Taste of the Wild and we rotate flavors, right now we're on Sierra Mountain Canine) and she's telling me we're feeding him too much "hot food" (lamb in this one) and we need to switch to "cooler foods." She gave me some crazy recipe (cooked turkey, veg, brown rice, etc) and to feed him that for 45 days and we can switch back to a "cooler kibble" (Pacific Steam formula). Now I'm sure my dog would prefer her crazy meal over kibble but has anyone heard about this legitimately helping a dog? We already dump a ridiculous amount of money on the pup and we really want to do anything we can to help but ugh 
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Feb 2, 2012 14:52
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Bacteriophage posted:We're working with a trainer to help us with our pup's dog/dog aggression. We just had our first class with her and while I really like her and I think she's really going to help us in the long run, some of the stuff she's telling us just sounds crazypants. IMO, given that its pretty hard to cook a balanced diet for your dog, that sounds a little weird. Besides what the gently caress does hot and cold mean in terms of food or protein sources?
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Feb 2, 2012 16:41
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It sounds like some voodoo stuff like certain foods make you calm and others make you more excitable? Unless your dog has a medical issue such as an allergy, then the food that you feed him will not affect his DA. You could argue that feeding crappy food could make the dog feel icky (like if you only eat pizza for a week), but you're already feeding high quality food, so that isn't an issue. If the trainer is good otherwise, I guess you just have to try ignoring/side-stepping any crazy homeopathic crap she throws at you.
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Feb 2, 2012 16:48
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wtftastic posted:IMO, given that its pretty hard to cook a balanced diet for your dog, that sounds a little weird. Besides what the gently caress does hot and cold mean in terms of food or protein sources? Its a traditional Chinese medicine thing. Patricia McConnell believes in it but there is really no actual science behind it. My vet behaviorist says that there is very little evidence that diet in general plays a big part in behavior (other than allergies) so I would just feed whatever your dog does well on. Also, dog meat is one of the "hot" foods so clearly diet can't change that 
Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Feb 2, 2012 |
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Feb 2, 2012 16:51
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Its a traditional Chinese medicine thing. Patricia McConnell believes in it but there is really no actual science behind it. My vet behaviorist says that there is very little evidence that diet in general plays a big part in behavior (other than allergies) so I would just feed whatever your dog does well on. That's interesting, but it makes me wonder. Why do behaviorists believe in this stupid crap anyways? I mean there's no scientific basis for it. EDIT: Oh my god, "...'science' is a fluid creature, moving this way and that, depending on the state of our knowledge (and the culture) at the time". Ugh. wtftastic fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Feb 2, 2012 |
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Feb 2, 2012 17:33
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Patricia McConnell's one of those people that I simultaneously love and think "what the gently caress, lady."
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Feb 2, 2012 17:49
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:39 |
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To be fair, there is definitely scientific backing to the idea that high protein in a diet can exacerbate aggression (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10953712), but calling it stuff like "hot" and "cool" reminds me too much of Cesar's whole "red zone" nonsense. For the people who are dealing with reactivity issues, I found this great video through a classmate. It's a pretty beautiful session with a super-reactive brindle pit, and it goes so smoothly. The handler takes a little time to get proficient at timing payoffs, but that's something we all have to work on. I love the moment when the dog is starting to get it - you can almost see the lightbulb go on!
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Feb 2, 2012 18:00
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