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http://www.amazon.com/Avvinatore-Vinator-Bottles-1-Count-Box/dp/B001D6FUDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328373450&sr=8-1 If you are going to get a bottle-related gadget then get this guy. I rinse them in the sink right away after pouring so they never really stay dirty, then when bottling use this thing to give the inside a good blast of sanitizer and a rinse. It is far easier than dunking them or trying to use a spray bottle to sanitize the insides.
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Feb 4, 2012 17:39
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withak posted:I can get ~3 gallons from boiling to less than 100F in less than 20 minutes. Giving the wort and the ice bath a stir (a very gentle stir for the wort, and with a sanitized stirring device) every few minutes makes a big difference. You don't have to be gentle stirring the wort, you want to oxygenate it before you add the yeast anyway. Relatedly there's not a whole lot of risk of contamination leaving the lid off unless your house is disgusting, I do it outside without issue and it greatly aids in cooling.
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Feb 4, 2012 18:15
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Josh Wow posted:You don't have to be gentle stirring the wort, you want to oxygenate it before you add the yeast anyway. Relatedly there's not a whole lot of risk of contamination leaving the lid off unless your house is disgusting, I do it outside without issue and it greatly aids in cooling. I heard oxygenating it while it is still hot is bad.
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Feb 4, 2012 18:21
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withak posted:I heard oxygenating it while it is still hot is bad. Mosher put it well. Hot-side aeration is technically bad for the beer, and it has become a boogeyman for a lot of brewers lately, but it was only even discovered it was a thing like ten years ago and beer was still pretty good in those dark ages. Edit:Then again, you try telling an engineer about a technical problem and then try not to have them obsess about it.
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Feb 4, 2012 18:41
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withak posted:I heard oxygenating it while it is still hot is bad. Leaving the lid off of cooling wort, however 
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Feb 4, 2012 18:41
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As far as oxygenating after the boil if its still hot you won't even be getting much oxygen into the wort and you'll probably notice the aftermath of that before you notice something with shelf life. Splash hot mash runnings and leave lids off erryday.
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Feb 4, 2012 18:47
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That's why I have a hard time believing my problem is oxidation. I used to be a lot less careful with splashing hot wort around but even after really cutting down the amount of agitation it gets while above 90* it's shown up pretty consistently. Fars.
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Feb 4, 2012 18:56
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD_49kfVJeE Check that out. All of it's interesting, but especially at about 5:25. Note this is by definition a beer that will be aged for a long time, yet they waterfall the steaming wort through a screen to capture hops and appear to let it cool by contact with the ambient air in a very shallow open fermenter. Also, my understanding is that Sierra Nevada's first wort chiller was a plate of corrugated steel - they would waterfall hot wort down this while spraying the backside with water. Prefect Six can tell you that Deschutes doesn't do much about hot side aeration and seems unconcerned about it, yet I think they said their bottled beer is date coded for a 200-day shelf life. I don't remember the number of days exactly, but I do recall thinking it was more than A-B-InBev's 110 days. As counterpoint, George Fix says it's a big issue: http://www.brew-dudes.com/hot-side-aeration/124
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Feb 4, 2012 18:58
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Doesn't SN now do everything in an oxygen0-free environment from cracking the grain through fermentation?
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Feb 4, 2012 19:04
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I had not heard that, but I suppose it's possible. They do make a big deal on the tour about how they scavenge the CO2 from the ferment rather than venting to atmosphere, so they would have it around and could easily do that if they wanted to.
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Feb 4, 2012 19:07
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As a counterpoint, I've heard Dr. Charlie Bamforth (runs the brewing program at UC Davis) on multiple occasions state that HSA is real but the absolute last thing you should worry about. Storing your beer warm or getting air in the beer during packaging is many orders of magnitude worse in terms of oxidation and staling. He did a Brew Strong podcast on the subject, and it's probably other places too.
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Feb 4, 2012 19:25
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Jo3sh posted:I never had an issue cleaning bottles. Each time I would pour a beer, I would immediately rinse the bottle until it no longer smelled like beer, and let it dry in the dish drainer. I would move them to a case next day. On bottling day, each one got a dunk in sanitizer, drain for 30s, and fill and cap. I think I'm jut going to go for the 22oz Bombers at this point. I drink a lot of beer as it is, usually 40's, and the 12oz bottles seem like they'd be a pain/waste of time for me, personally. Not too many of my friends are really into beer anyway, I'll probably be drinking the majority of them.
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Feb 4, 2012 19:57
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So does no one sanitize their bottles by running them through their dishwasher once and letting them steam dry? Because thats what I've done thus far, seems pretty easy to me.
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Feb 4, 2012 |
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Feb 4, 2012 20:11
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Sirotan posted:So does no one sanitize their bottles by running them through their dishwasher once and letting them steam dry? Because thats what I've done thus far, sends pretty easy to me. I'm not rich enough to have a dishwasher.
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Feb 4, 2012 20:13
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Sirotan posted:So does no one sanitize their bottles by running them through their dishwasher once and letting them steam dry? Because thats what I've done thus far, seems pretty easy to me. “This is how Gonad dealt with it Judges 18:4
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Feb 4, 2012 20:26
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Double-decoction-and-polka brewday made possible by Shoutcast
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Feb 4, 2012 20:46
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 Just bought and assembled some fittings for my new igloo cooler mash tun. They appear to be leak free and clog free.  Looking forward to seeing the false bottom in action with something other then plain water.
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Feb 4, 2012 21:06
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Quick dumb question. I'm working on my first batch of beer. I just bought brand new bottles. I know I should sanitize after the bottle has been used, but should I do it before? I don't have my dishwasher hooked up right now so I'd have to use some actual sanatizer, or will it be OK to use the new bottles?
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Feb 4, 2012 21:15
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I would rinse them out well with hot water and give them a good soak in starsan.
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Feb 4, 2012 21:17
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Looking forward to seeing the false bottom in action with something other then plain water. Beer is 90+% water anyway, so I figure you've had 90+% of the experience already. The other 10-% can be extrapolated from the statistically significant sample you've already drawn. Right?
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Feb 4, 2012 21:25
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j3rkstore posted:I would rinse them out well with hot water and give them a good soak in starsan. Is that the basic sanatizer that most goons recommend?
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Feb 4, 2012 21:27
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Jo3sh posted:Beer is 90+% water anyway, so I figure you've had 90+% of the experience already. The other 10-% can be extrapolated from the statistically significant sample you've already drawn. Sometimes I hate you guys  Taking away all my excitement like that...
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Feb 4, 2012 21:36
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is that the basic sanatizer that most goons recommend? Gods, yes. Iodophor is also very good, but runs a distant second in goon recommendations. Everything else didn't even get out of the gate. Edit to add: we discussed Star-San a bit on the last page, and there are some good pointers on using it. Used carefully, a bottle of the concentrate should last you years. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Feb 4, 2012 |
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Feb 4, 2012 21:37
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Sirotan posted:So does no one sanitize their bottles by running them through their dishwasher once and letting them steam dry? Because thats what I've done thus far, seems pretty easy to me. GonadTheBallbarian posted:“This is how Gonad dealt with it Best Toxx
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Feb 4, 2012 21:56
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I'm making a porter today and while it is cooling in the ice bath I am going to stir it not-gently and also leave the lid off. If it is ruined then you guys will owe me 5 gallons of porter.
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Feb 4, 2012 22:31
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My first all grain batch ended up with an OG of 1.02, so needless to say it didn't turn out very well. I then did three different one gallon batches to perfect my technique, following recipes from some hipster home brewing book someone gave me. I used the BIAB method for one batch and it ended up with a really low OG, but the batch sparged ones seemed to have gone fine (won't be bottling them for a couple days still). I want to do another 5 gallon all grain batch, but I don't really have a proper mash tun. My current equipment consists of a 40 quart kettle, a 32 quart kettle, a big grain bag, an ale pail, and a 6.5 gallon glass carboy. The method I've been using for one gallon batches is to get the water up to 160*, turn off the heat and add the grain, then cover the kettle with a lid and a lot of towels to try and keep the heat in. I'll take temperature readings every so often, and if needed turn the heat back on while stirring. After the grains steep for 60 mins, I put a strainer over one of the pots, dump all the grains and the sweet liquor through the strainer, dump some more water at 170* through the grains, then recirculate the liquor through the grains twice more. For 5 gallons, the strainer won't be able to hold all the grains, but my grain bag will. Do you guys think it's worth trying this method on a 5 gallon batch (again), or should I just do some steeping + extract brews until I get and modify a Gott cooler? My previous 5 gallon extract + partial mash brew had some weird flavors, but I think it might be DMS because I had to almost completely cover the kettle to maintain a boil. My Bayou SP10 just arrived, so I'm looking forward to actually being able to boil large amounts of water at a time.
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Feb 4, 2012 23:56
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chiz posted:I think I'm jut going to go for the 22oz Bombers at this point. I drink a lot of beer as it is, usually 40's, and the 12oz bottles seem like they'd be a pain/waste of time for me, personally. Not too many of my friends are really into beer anyway, I'll probably be drinking the majority of them. Save your 40s and bottle in them. Live the dream. Jo3sh posted:Gods, yes. Iodophor is also very good, but runs a distant second in goon recommendations. Everything else didn't even get out of the gate. Repeated exposure to iodophor on your bare skin can cause an open wound that will never heal. This would take years of daily exposure of course, but it's a fun little fact.
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Feb 5, 2012 00:53
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For the record, my wort didn't cool noticeably with the lid off than it usually does with the lid on, though this is only one data point. IMO regular stirring of the wort and ice bath makes a bigger difference.
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Feb 5, 2012 02:52
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withak posted:I'm making a porter today and while it is cooling in the ice bath I am going to stir it not-gently and also leave the lid off. If it is ruined then you guys will owe me 5 gallons of porter. For the record, I don't owe you anything if you leave the lid off and it's ruined e: don't sneeze ee: People who use iodophor are weirdos. Starsan is wonderfully safe and easy, and is wonderfully foamy. Hell, I've drank partial boil beers that were half Starsan. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Feb 5, 2012 |
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Feb 5, 2012 02:59
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Someone recommend me a 30-qt pot for in-house boils...bonus points for it being an Amazon Prime-eligible product. Is the Bayou one the way to go, or would I get equivalent efficiency from a $30 aluminum pot?
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Feb 5, 2012 03:16
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There's a lot to be said for aluminum pots, assuming they are not stupidly thin. Aluminum spreads heat a lot better than any steel alloy does, meaning less chance of scorching. It's lighter. The Alzheimer's scare has been debunked. It costs less than stainless. About the worst that can be said is that you might get a metallic taste in your beer if you don't build an oxide layer in the pot first. The good news is that this is easy to do, by boiling some plain tape water in the pot a few times before you use it for brewing. Don't use caustics or heavy scrubbing to clean it, and it will last you a lifetime of brewing.
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Feb 5, 2012 03:38
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Hypnolobster posted:For the record, I don't owe you anything if you leave the lid off and it's ruined Just pitched the yeast. Worst case, we have an artisan sour porter. edit: I did remember to close the kitchen window right next to the ice water bath. withak fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Feb 5, 2012 |
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Feb 5, 2012 03:44
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I've sort of wanted to do a brett porter for a while.
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Feb 5, 2012 03:46
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withak posted:edit: I did remember to close the kitchen window right next to the ice water bath. I always cool outside, with the lid off and have never had any infection issues.
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Feb 5, 2012 03:57
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MomJeans420 posted:For 5 gallons, the strainer won't be able to hold all the grains, but my grain bag will. Do you guys think it's worth trying this method on a 5 gallon batch (again), or should I just do some steeping + extract brews until I get and modify a Gott cooler? I would try it again, I normally get about 75-80% efficiency in the mash with BIAB. Some things to try (without knowing what you actually did already): Crush grain finer, or ask whoever is crushing it to run it through the mill twice. Squeeze your bag. If you want you can fill a bucket with some mash temp water and dunk sparge the bag in that to get a bit more efficiency, then add to boil. Make sure you bag is loose in the mash tun (it should basically just line the tun not be a tight bag) Try and make sure your thermometer is accurate. Stir while heating to make sure heat is distributed evenly.
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Feb 5, 2012 04:24
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LeeMajors posted:I always cool outside, with the lid off and have never had any infection issues. You may never notice a problem, but it's a giant vector for infection. The air in a house and outside is absolutely full of dust particles carrying yeast and bacteria, your house probably has some fun little skin cells floating around, your breath is full of tiny particulates of happy little sugar-consuming bacteria, etc. Really, lids are a good thing.
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Feb 5, 2012 04:28
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Josh Wow posted:Save your 40s and bottle in them. Live the dream. How would I cap them properly? You guys advise against using twist offs to bottle homebrew.
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Feb 5, 2012 05:21
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Hypnolobster posted:You may never notice a problem, but it's a giant vector for infection. The air in a house and outside is absolutely full of dust particles carrying yeast and bacteria, your house probably has some fun little skin cells floating around, your breath is full of tiny particulates of happy little sugar-consuming bacteria, etc. I guess its simple enough to spray down your lid with sanitizer and pop it on during cooling just to be sure. Personally if I had such a problem with air contamination I'd probably be more worried about my respiratory health than my beer.
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Feb 5, 2012 05:33
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So yeah this decoction mashing... Saving it for REALLY special beers on rare occasions. 8 and a half hour brew day. gently caress that noise. Infusion mash FTW. The beer in question is a Weizenbock modeled after Vitus. Kinda big. Kinda special I guess...
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Feb 5, 2012 06:23
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Second all-grain batch done, did an American Red. The 2-hr 155F mash (3:1 qt/lb) did wonders for efficiency, the final ABV of the thing is 7%. I'm surprised at how well homebrew masks alcohol taste. Is this normal?
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Feb 5, 2012 08:34
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