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you need a non turbo bar until you do a swap. the turbo bar goes right through where the n/a exhaust manifold is and the non-turbo bar has bends to go over it. Also, the selection for a 3rd gen is somewhat limited, but you can also use BSF19xz, which is a 22mm adjustable front swaybar if you buy new bushings for it.
jamal fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 00:16
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jamal posted:you need a non turbo bar until you do a swap. the turbo bar goes right through where the n/a exhaust manifold is and the non-turbo bar has bends to go over it. Also, the selection for a 3rd gen is somewhat limited, but you can also use BSF19xz, which is a 22mm adjustable front swaybar if you buy new bushings for it. So I'll just keep the BSF15 in my garage where it is and order a nonturbo to fill in for a year or so. Will it hurt anything or be weird to run a rear and not a front for a while?
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Jan 31, 2012 02:56
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So where do you guys (and gals?) go to buy Motul 300v 5w30 motor oil or an equivalent? On the Crawford website for 5 two liters cans and shipping its 259 dollars. Thats just not going to happen for two oil changes. Is Red Line comparable? I was set on Motul until I saw that price.
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Jan 31, 2012 04:26
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300V is the really really expensive Motul for built motors. I used to run 8100 which is expensive all on its own. Rotella T6?
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Jan 31, 2012 04:28
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$259? that's like 70 just for shipping. But you can skip the 300v and go with 8100. it's about $40 for a 5l jug, which is more than enough for an oil change.
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Jan 31, 2012 04:50
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Yea its was like 80 for shipping, I couldn't believe it. 8100 is ok? I heard to try to get something without the "energy conserving" rating, but I have yet to go look at the 8100. Maybe I can get a local shop to order the Motul and eat the shipping... EDIT: Looking around and from what I've heard, AMSOIL Signature Series, Motul 8100 Eco-NERGY and Red Line seem to be the best options. Should I split hairs over the difference? I autocross in pretty gnarly temperatures, but my motor is stock. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 05:15
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I only bothered using motul when I worked somewhere that had it in stock and I could get it for cheap. I can still order motul if I want but it's easier to just go to wal-mart and buy rotella.
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Jan 31, 2012 05:42
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I want to stick with 5w30 for warranty purposes. My factory manual says Subaru oil when available or an equivalent, and gives the option for resource conserving. No option for weight though. They can't legally force my to buy their oil and my last (LAST) dealership oil change they left the oil cap off. Luckily its only a 5 mile drive home. I brought it back and they exclaimed that their #1 Master Technician never makes mistakes like that!!! I mean they believed me and re changed the oil and were cool, but poo poo. Gotta get the oil change right guys. I've heard good things about AMSOIL and rallysportdirect stocks Red Line, so maybe I'll just go with one of those. Any other input is welcome and thanks to jamal e: and seat safety switch! for taking the time and helping me out. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 05:52
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I've heard good things about AMSOIL and rallysportdirect stocks Red Line, so maybe I'll just go with one of those. Any other input is welcome and thanks to jamal e: and seat safety switch! for taking the time and helping me out. Most AMSOIL isn't actually API approved, which is bad for warranties.
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Jan 31, 2012 05:59
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Well son of a bitch. Maybe I'll just stick with the Subaru oil  No but seriously, Red Line might be a winner then? Edit: Red Line is not on the API list at all unless its under another name. Edit: This AMSOIL is API SN Resource Conserving: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx Actually, I dont think it is. Look here: http://eolcs.api.org/companyNames.aspx Jeez! THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 06:10
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Anyone know where I can find the oem seat warmer kit for a 2011 WRX? I'd really like to get this installed and not have to pay the dealership to install it.
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Jan 31, 2012 06:45
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Danger Doug posted:Anyone know where I can find the oem seat warmer kit for a 2011 WRX? I'd really like to get this installed and not have to pay the dealership to install it. http://www.subarupartsdepartment.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=64111fg050&make=Subaru&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215189 http://www.subarupartsdepartment.com/parts/index.cfm?make=Subaru&year=&searchText=64111fg030&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215189 http://www.subarupartsdepartment.com/parts/index.cfm?make=Subaru&year=&searchText=83075fa010&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215189
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Jan 31, 2012 07:27
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Lord Gaga posted:http://www.subarupartsdepartment.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=64111fg050&make=Subaru&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215189 Woo! Thanks a lot! Also: goddamn they're not cheap.
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Jan 31, 2012 07:42
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How "flashy" do you guys think something like this gauge pack would be... ...with ProSport gauges that black out when off and a black backing plate instead of brushed metal? "Flashy" meaning how much of a crackhead magnet would it be in an otherwise stock looking empty car.
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Jan 31, 2012 08:23
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I don't think it'd be a big deal at all, hardly noticeable if your windows are tinted. Hard to tell from that angle but I wonder if you could have a piece of tinted plastic over the front that allowed the gauges to show through when on but just looked like some shiny plastic when they were off. Kind of like the old Chameleon headunits.
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Jan 31, 2012 14:18
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Danger Doug posted:Woo! Thanks a lot! Also: goddamn they're not cheap.
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Jan 31, 2012 14:58
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Ugh, can't decide on '10 Legacy 3.6R limited vs a used 07/08 G35x. Have a current 01 RS and love it but need to class up the ride and engine power a bit. Only want to keep it for ~5 years or so. Subie comes with CPO warranty and 37k, G35xs landing around 50k, no warranty. Price is about the same given differences in gas costs over 5 years for premium even with the lower price. Both around 20-21k. Sat in and driven both - G probably a little more fun to drive and peppier but maybe not even necessary, 3.6R has plenty of power. Both pretty comfortable, but the G a little more luxurious. Any thoughts? I feel like I'm leaning Subaru from my familiarity standpoint but I feel like logically the G makes more sense. I am in Pittsburgh with a ton of potholes so ride quality matters a lot to me.
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Jan 31, 2012 16:03
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sanchez posted:I don't think it'd be a big deal at all, hardly noticeable if your windows are tinted. Hard to tell from that angle but I wonder if you could have a piece of tinted plastic over the front that allowed the gauges to show through when on but just looked like some shiny plastic when they were off. Kind of like the old Chameleon headunits. The prosports are dark when they're off. I'd go with a black backing plate and plastidip the bezels black. It's the OEM gauge pod so it'll match the dash.
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Jan 31, 2012 16:52
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:How "flashy" do you guys think something like this gauge pack would be... I have one of these https://www.cp-e.com/products/mazda3/mazda3-mazdaspeed3-triple-gauge-pod sitting new in the box for the same reason, afraid it'll look like too nice of a target for the crackheads. Don't live in a terrible area, but break-ins do happen.
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Jan 31, 2012 20:23
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Got my alignment done over the weekend. Apparently the rears could not be adjusted and are at -1.5 degrees camber and now 0.0 degrees of toe instead of 0.2. It would also appear that the fronts were not adjustable on the static camber without drilling adjustment slots in the struts. So I'll be installing the KYB GR2's I have in the garage to get -1.5 degrees of camber all around in the coming weeks. Current specs: FL -0.2 camber, 3.5 caster, 0 toe FR -0.6 camber, 3.5 caster, 0 toe RL -1.5 camber, 0 toe RR -1.5 camber, 0 toe My new yokohama yk580's complain due to understeer under reasonable cornering. Specifically this corner on lopes rd at ~70mph http://g.co/maps/tzg93 . Amandyke fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 20:27
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The front camber is definitely adjustable and the upper bolts are cammed to do it. I run a little less rear camber than that the it's fine. On a side note I did slot my front struts in addition to the stock bolts to get things where I wanted. Front camber is -2.5, rear is -1.1.
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Jan 31, 2012 20:33
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jamal posted:The front camber is definitely adjustable and the upper bolts are cammed to do it. I run a little less rear camber than that the it's fine. On a side note I did slot my front struts in addition to the stock bolts to get things where I wanted. Front camber is -2.5, rear is -1.1. I'll be sure to remind them of that when I take it back in. What would be your recommendation for front camber on a stock height wagon used mainly for weekend chores and the occasional fun outing? Really I want it to handle better than my echo because well... There's no reason a torsion beam rear suspension should be able to outdo the independent rear of the subaru. As hilarious as it is, I'm thinking about getting rid of the echo as a commuter car for something new during the summer (new hyundai veloster turbo perhaps).
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Jan 31, 2012 20:39
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Amandyke posted:I'll be sure to remind them of that when I take it back in. What would be your recommendation for front camber on a stock height wagon used mainly for weekend chores and the occasional fun outing?
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Jan 31, 2012 20:59
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yeah that. I consider -2 to be acceptable for daily driving and will really improve front end grip. 2.5 is a little excessive for the driving I've been doing lately, but it's perfect on a fun road and worked pretty well on an auto-x course. One of these days I'll get some of the high-caster sti control arms and widen the front track.
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Jan 31, 2012 22:02
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jamal posted:yeah that. I consider -2 to be acceptable for daily driving and will really improve front end grip. 2.5 is a little excessive for the driving I've been doing lately, but it's perfect on a fun road and worked pretty well on an auto-x course. One of these days I'll get some of the high-caster sti control arms and widen the front track. -2 on the front it is then. Maybe I'll load up those settings into forza and see how they work out... Or maybe i should actually read something on proper suspension setup as i always seem to get massive amounts of late corner oversteer in every car i put together in that drat game.
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Jan 31, 2012 22:22
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I have an 02 wagon and I want to put an exhaust and use the open source stage 2 tune. I have bought an ebay downpipe and a catless uppipe. Im not really sure how the ebay exhausts work with the cats. I would like to keep the main cat for emissions check, as its just a visual confirmation of a cat. I would like to get the sti catback but I haven't found one in Vancouver after 3 months of looking. I was thinking of one of the ebay surewin/m2 cobb replica cat backs, but from what I can tell from pictures, that will eliminate all the converters? There are also lots of "ebay exhausts are crap/they are great" reviews. I have a boost gauge to put in that has been sitting forever, and a tactrix cable that hasn't been out of the box, along with the exhaust pieces. I really should do something but I want to get all the pieces first.
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Feb 1, 2012 07:16
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Amandyke posted:-2 on the front it is then. Maybe I'll load up those settings into forza and see how they work out... Or maybe i should actually read something on proper suspension setup as i always seem to get massive amounts of late corner oversteer in every car i put together in that drat game. You're prob not gonna get -2.0 degrees camber on a stock setup without camber bolts in the lower which are like $20 so get some.
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Feb 1, 2012 07:19
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Anyone know why SoA has changed the owner's manual for the 2011+ WRX/STI's to require only 5w30 oil now? I have a sneaking suspicion that it's purely for economy and emission's sake, but I couldn't care less that I lose 0.3 mpg from using Rotella T6 5w40.
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Feb 1, 2012 07:25
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nm posted:Most AMSOIL isn't actually API approved, which is bad for warranties. Yeah, surely if your concern is "equivalent" oil for warranty purposes, all you need is a matching API rating (unless Subaru do their own oil approvals in the US)? Over here, even discount hardware store oil comes in API SL. Amandyke posted:There's no reason a torsion beam rear suspension should be able to outdo the independent rear of the subaru. As hilarious as it is, I'm thinking about getting rid of the echo as a commuter car for something new during the summer (new hyundai veloster turbo perhaps). You sure do love your torsion beams. 
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Feb 1, 2012 08:49
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Danger Doug posted:Anyone know why SoA has changed the owner's manual for the 2011+ WRX/STI's to require only 5w30 oil now? I have a sneaking suspicion that it's purely for economy and emission's sake, but I couldn't care less that I lose 0.3 mpg from using Rotella T6 5w40. That would be my guess too, the EJ25 is an old design and they must be desperate to get MPG as high as possible.
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Feb 1, 2012 14:31
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Is there anything I can do to quicken up the throttle response on my Outback? It's a little sluggish. Edit: Because I haven't posted about it on this page, it's a 2012 2.5i 6 speed.
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Feb 1, 2012 15:09
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Safety Dance posted:Is there anything I can do to quicken up the throttle response on my Outback? It's a little sluggish. edit: There are also some electronic boxes (like the Sprint Booster) that you can plug in between the throttle pedal and the DBW connector, but I don't know how well they work and they seem expensive. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Feb 1, 2012 |
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Feb 1, 2012 16:10
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Saga posted:You sure do love your torsion beams. Apparently so 
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Feb 1, 2012 16:42
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blindjoe posted:I have an 02 wagon and I want to put an exhaust and use the open source stage 2 tune. Just be aware that you get what you pay for with parts. My local Subaru mech always warns against eBay parts because our salty winter roads will eat that poo poo alive.
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Feb 2, 2012 02:00
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Random question, will rear sedan seats from an '02 impreza work/fit in a '04 wagon? I can't seem to get a solid answer via google searches.
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Feb 3, 2012 03:04
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My buddy and I decided to take a 'short-cut' home today that crossed through some mountainous regions of Washington. Well, we got lost and ended up getting stopped by drat near high-centering my 08 Legacy GT in deep snow while slowly sliding toward a steep drop off on one side. Prior to this, our progress was achieved by sitting in first gear and applying generous amounts of throttle to paddle through the deep snow at around 3000rpm. When we finally gave up and backed up to turn around we noticed a burnt smell that I assume was my center diff. So, four wheels spinning at 25mph while moving maybe 2mph... what did I shorten the life of? And yes, it was awesome fun dodging fallen rocks and bouncing around rutted roads.
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Feb 6, 2012 03:46
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I would guess the burnt smell was the clutch, not the center diff. Heavy throttle with a lot of resistance in first gear would probably be pretty rough of the clutch.
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Feb 6, 2012 04:11
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I'm looking at a 2004 WRX sedan. They're asking for 12k, but it looks like it's got a big dent on the trunk, could I fairly talk them down? Also has 100k miles.
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Feb 6, 2012 04:27
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Most certainly. My wife's now deceased '03 wrx wagon with ~110k miles and no dents only cost $6300.
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Feb 6, 2012 05:14
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Yakattak posted:I'm looking at a 2004 WRX sedan. They're asking for 12k, but it looks like it's got a big dent on the trunk, could I fairly talk them down? Also has 100k miles. You can talk them down considerably. I bought my '04 WRX with 60k and absolutely no mods in perfect shape from an old guy for 12k (a year and a half ago).
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Feb 6, 2012 05:23
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