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Uh. Is it DSL, and do you have proper filters installed?
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Feb 5, 2012 23:27
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Factory Factory posted:Uh. ASDL, I've already tried replacing the filters, didn't help.
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Feb 5, 2012 23:39
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Do you have a ping tool on the router (say, if it's running DD-WRT or something)? You could try running a continuous ping to see if the router is losing connection as well as the computer. Or you could watch the router to see if it's rebooting for any reason when you get a call.
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Feb 5, 2012 23:50
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Mac question. So my work gave me a loaner macbook because the one they ordered for me hadn't arrived by my first day. They are essentially the exact same model, except that the new one will be an i7 2.4 whereas the one I have now is an i7 2.2ghz... and I think the new one has the high res display, not sure about this one. Will i just be able to swap the HDD's and keep rolling on the new one, or will drivers end up being an issue? I've got the older one pretty stuffed (VMware, a ton of adobe products, office est..) and I'd love just swap drivers, or even image the old one and drop it on the new drive.
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Feb 6, 2012 00:13
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If it were Windows, I'd say "definitely yes." While I don't know of any issues offhand, I am not a Mac user, so I don't want to extend bad advice. What I do know works is a Time Machine backup. If you have an external hard drive or something you could just do one of those and restore it to the new machine.
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Feb 6, 2012 00:26
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Sointenly posted:Mac question. You ought to be fine. I'm almost positive that an installation of MacOS holds kexts for every single permutation of Apple's hardware. I would put money on this being a smooth transition.
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Feb 6, 2012 00:33
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You can connect them with a network cable or FW800 and run the migration assistant, as well.
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Feb 6, 2012 02:12
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Factory Factory posted:If you have a cheap microwave, you could also test this by moving your PC so the microwave is between it and the router, then running the microwave. The signal should similarly drop off (as 2.4 GHz is a radio frequency in the microwave spectrum). If the drop-off doesn't work similarly to the phone issue, this points to it not being interference. I've always wondered about this - if your microwave is putting out that much RFI doesn't that mean it's got bad shielding/grounding and probably ought to be replaced?
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Feb 6, 2012 02:21
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:I've always wondered about this - if your microwave is putting out that much RFI doesn't that mean it's got bad shielding/grounding and probably ought to be replaced?
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Feb 6, 2012 02:34
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Well yes, but what is allowable leakage on a microwave? I'd imagine it'd be well under 1W as well.
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Feb 6, 2012 03:10
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Well yes, but what is allowable leakage on a microwave? I'd imagine it'd be well under 1W as well. I don't think there's any standard, but a microwave that leaks too much is useless for cooking, albeit harmless.
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Feb 6, 2012 06:35
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As it turns out, the FDA limit is 1mW/cm2 at 5 cm before purchase and 5mw/cm2 at 5 cm at any time after. I guess if your SNR is poor it could have an effect? Or maybe cheap microwaves are just rampantly out of FDA guidelines.
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Feb 6, 2012 07:06
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Factory Factory posted:As it turns out, the FDA limit is 1mW/cm2 at 5 cm before purchase and 5mw/cm2 at 5 cm at any time after. Mostly, don't have your router near your microwave or have your microwave in the middle of the path from your router to your device.
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Feb 6, 2012 07:08
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yeah, it turned out that I fixed my new PC not connecting by plugging it in  but the issue with the landline cutting off internet is still there.
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Feb 6, 2012 20:35
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So I have a Cyberpower UPS thats 685 AV 390 watts that isn't switching from AC to DC fast enough. For the last couple times the power has gone off at my house the UPS doesn't catch quick enough giving enough time for the system to lose power. It does switch over but by the time it has done so the computer is off then rebooted and is POSTing. This happens if the power goes completely out and if only goes out for a second. I noticed on their program that monitors the UPS that my outlet is supply 118v and when I am running a game my wattage goes up to approx. 260w. Could either of these lead to the UPS being taxed and not able to click over fast enough? Or should I try to get it replaced through warranty?
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Feb 7, 2012 18:27
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Neither of those things is or should be an issue. Call the manufacturer's technical support.
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Feb 7, 2012 21:24
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I've had that happen on cheap UPSs too, especially when the power draw is a significant portion of the rated draw. I've never found a solution other than just replacing the UPS with a non-crappy APC model, but maybe getting the unit replaced will fix it.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:40
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Thanks for the feedback. I really don't think I have the receipts anymore as its been over a year so I guess I should just pony up for a better UPS.
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Feb 8, 2012 02:36
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Does anyone manufacture brand-new Force Feedback joysticks anymore? I'm currently using a Microsoft Sidewinder FF 2, but it's kinda old by now. A quick Google just turns up loads of second-hand joysticks.
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Feb 8, 2012 06:54
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I recently got some new wireless devices and I need a new wireless router. I've been using the same wired router for years so I am completely clueless about them. It will be used for my home network (PC and PS3 only), my Iphone/Ipad and the occasional friend that drops by with a laptop. So basically it needs to be cheap, function well for my home wired use, and provide basic wireless functionality. What can you guys recommend for me? I did not see a networking/router hardware thread so if I've messed up please direct me there and I will ask my question again, otherwise thanks in advance! 
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Feb 8, 2012 10:47
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Alpha Q. Up posted:I recently got some new wireless devices and I need a new wireless router. I've been using the same wired router for years so I am completely clueless about them. It will be used for my home network (PC and PS3 only), my Iphone/Ipad and the occasional friend that drops by with a laptop. So basically it needs to be cheap, function well for my home wired use, and provide basic wireless functionality.
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Feb 8, 2012 10:49
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Alereon posted:Here's a link to the Home Networking Megathread, make sure anything you're looking at is dual-band (supports the newer 5Ghz standard) so you don't get stuck without compatibility with newer devices. Thank you! Can't believe I missed that  I will take your advice and repost. If anyone else has advice I'll check here too.
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Feb 8, 2012 11:54
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Once again, this isn't strictly a hardware question per-se, but it relates to the BIOS. When I installed linux on my in-laws' computer (Kids can't gently caress it up with viruses from dodgy games  ), I used a a boot CD which allows you to make an old computer which doesn't support booting from USB boot from USB.I cannot remember its name for the life of me, and I only stumbled on it by chance. I would very much like to burn myself a copy as a permanent part of my computer repair arsenal, so if anyone knows what it's called, I'd be indebted.
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Feb 8, 2012 18:22
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Do they still make those SD cards that fold in half and have a built in USB port? Those were the coolest things ever and the last I can find of them were the Sandisk Ultra II's in 2GB from years ago. Maybe I'm searching the wrong terms on Newegg?
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Feb 9, 2012 15:12
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Hamburglar posted:Do they still make those SD cards that fold in half and have a built in USB port? Those were the coolest things ever and the last I can find of them were the Sandisk Ultra II's in 2GB from years ago. Maybe I'm searching the wrong terms on Newegg?
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Feb 11, 2012 04:53
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I have an old computer with an NVIDIA Geforce 6150LE video card, and I've been running SpeedFan because my system fan was failing (replaced it yesterday). When I'm running a game it gets up to 70C on the Remote Temp. area. I never ran it when I wasn't having system fan troubles, so I don't know how normal this is. Should I be looking into it or is it good? Its at around 50ish right now with nothing running but Firefox. CharlesWillisMaddox fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Feb 11, 2012 |
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Feb 11, 2012 20:48
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It's fine. GPUs can get a lot hotter than CPUs and still run safely.
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Feb 11, 2012 22:05
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Factory Factory posted:It's fine. GPUs can get a lot hotter than CPUs and still run safely. I restarted my computer, and I got the system fan failure warning again, so I checked it out.  (left idling, right running Minecraft, since taking these Remote and Core have risen to 70/60) Says both fans are still running. Or is it the three and four fan they're talking about? I don't even have a third or fourth fan.
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Feb 11, 2012 22:40
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Use hwinfo64 instead, maybe that will solve your problem (speedfan is terrible)
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Feb 11, 2012 22:48
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Are you especially worried about preserving an onboard GPU?
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Feb 11, 2012 23:28
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CharlesWillisMaddox posted:I restarted my computer, and I got the system fan failure warning again, so I checked it out. Some OEM (Dell/HP/etc) PC's look for a certain # of RPM's on the CPU fan header to indicate that the CPU fan is working or they'll give you the fan failure prompt. There may be an option to disable the prompt in BIOS. future ghost fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 01:37
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I've been getting TDRs (The Driver Reset) off and on since I built my new system. Lately they've been happening once every couple days. The screen shuts off, the sound freezes like it's about to BSOD, and then it comes back saying the driver stopped responding but it was recovered. This almost always happens in Firefox. Google turns up tons of people with the same problem. It's not a show-stopper but it is annoying. I wonder why it only happens when the vid card is basically idling and not under load like in Total War: Shogun 2. My build: i5 2500k Geforce 460 1 GB 8GB DDR3 ASUS P8P67 rev 3.0 Stock settings and coolers.
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Feb 12, 2012 03:24
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So I've got an NT4 machine that I removed from a domain that no longer exists, but unfortunately there were files that I needed from the recycle bin under a certain user profile. Under a local administrator account, the bin contains only files that have been deleted since being removed from the domain, so I'm curious if the recycler for the old account still exists somewhere or if I'm hosed. Any ideas? Edit: Nevermind, just noticed this is not the appropriate thread. CrazyBumFungus fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 03:37
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skooma512 posted:My build:
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Feb 12, 2012 04:19
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I have a bit of a weird problem. I just installed win7 on to my new crucial m4 ssd and everything works fine except if i put the ssd as my first boot option it doesnt do anything after post and just stays at a black screen with the blinking cursor. If i have it set to boot from the cd/dvd first it works but makes me choose win7 as the operating system to launch with 2 separate options for seemingly the same win7. This doesn't really cause me any problems its just odd.
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Feb 12, 2012 07:54
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A friend's computer wasn't booting. He'd press the power button and just get a continuous beep, no graphics, but the fans and drives power up. I tried taking out all his pci cards, new memory, different power supply and even a new graphics card in case the onboard one had fried itself. No luck, still the same issue every time. Can someone just confirm what I suspect, that the motherboard is fried and he should replace it/get a new machine?
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Feb 12, 2012 14:15
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The only thing you haven't tried is swapping out the CPU.
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Feb 12, 2012 15:33
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Lovie Unsmith posted:The only thing you haven't tried is swapping out the CPU. Indeed, but I don't have any of the same socket type lying around. Still, I'd better salvage one, because I don't want to risk getting grief if he buys a new motherboard and that's the issue.
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Feb 12, 2012 16:06
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As a rule, it's never the CPU. The only time CPUs fail is when a power delivery failure or other abuse fries them, so any time you think it might be the CPU, you can just assume it's something else. That sounds like a motherboard failure.
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Feb 13, 2012 03:09
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From the smell of burnt plastic and the heat on the back of the machine, my mom's power supply just blew. I replaced it with one I had lying around from when I upgraded and....everything appears to work. Is this common? I was under the understanding that when the power supply went it took everything attached to it with it.
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Feb 13, 2012 05:33
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