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crime fighting hog posted:Brass washed with devlan mud looks amazing. Well ok but if my wife gets upset about the candlesticks I'm sending her to you.
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Feb 7, 2012 15:59
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Just picked up some Squadron white putty for gap filling. How toxic is this stuff? Do I need to wear latex gloves to smooth it around a base? Any tips appreciated.
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Feb 7, 2012 16:08
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Red Robin Hood posted:Yeah I've got a paint carousel, so what This is great but I can't help but notice you've put your paints back in the wrong slots. Tanned Flesh != Midnight Blue. 
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Feb 7, 2012 16:08
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Not a viking posted:Anyone have any good recipes for painting dark brass? I base with a 50/50 mix of VGC Brassy Brass and VGC Smokey Ink (which isn't really like an ink, it's a thick goopy translucent brown), then wash with something dark like devlan mud or chestnut ink. Sometimes I leave it like that if I want it dark and dirtied up, or I will go re-highlight (edge or drybrush, depending on the surface) with straight Brassy Brass.
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Feb 7, 2012 16:11
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Beerdeer posted:Just picked up some Squadron white putty for gap filling. It's as toxic as the glue you're already using on your models.
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Feb 7, 2012 16:31
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 ATTENTION FIX, CLEAN OUT YOUR PM BOX
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Feb 7, 2012 16:59
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So I can essentially get whatever GW product I want to (for free) through work as long as I promise to paint them, work on them, and display them at my workstation. I'm currently working on some space marines but as I near completion I'm hankering to work on something more interesting to paint. My initial thought was to grab a Tyranids battlebox...thoughts?
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Feb 7, 2012 17:01
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treeboy posted:...thoughts? My first thought is; Where do you work?
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Feb 7, 2012 17:02
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Yeah, seriously. Tyranids is a good choice since they're visually striking. I'd go with Orks because they're funny and/or badass for even non-gamer folks to look at(and I'm biased, luv orks) .
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Feb 7, 2012 17:20
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PaintVagrant posted:
Sorry, sorry. Good to go.
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Feb 7, 2012 17:35
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BlackIronHeart posted:Yeah, seriously. The Tau Ethereal is totally awesome as well, with his robes and his marshalling signals. But the best part is also how all the Tau respect them.
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Feb 7, 2012 17:35
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:My first thought is; Vigil Games  and before the inevitable question: no I can't say poo poo, sorry. I think I'm going to do Tyranids. I love the look of orcs but if trying to do IG taught me one thing it's that I cannot stand painting 20,000,000 little men
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Feb 7, 2012 18:14
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treeboy posted:Vigil Games So...about those Tyranids...
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Feb 7, 2012 18:16
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Dominion posted:So...about those Tyranids... i've seen tyranid armies and they always pale in comparison to ork for sheer numbers, but maybe i'm just looking in the wrong places
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Feb 7, 2012 18:17
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treeboy posted:i've seen tyranid armies and they always pale in comparison to ork for sheer numbers, but maybe i'm just looking in the wrong places Nah, I think you're just looking at green tide style armies for orks. My 1500 ork list is about 40 models (plus 5 or so vehicles) which is not unusually high. But yeah, you can definitely do a lower model count tyranid army, especially if you're going for the coolest looking models, which are gonna tend to be the big MCs.
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Feb 7, 2012 18:20
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treeboy posted:i've seen tyranid armies and they always pale in comparison to ork for sheer numbers, but maybe i'm just looking in the wrong places Are you familiar with the film Starship Troopers? That's all you need to know really.
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Feb 7, 2012 20:13
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Not a viking posted:Anyone have any good recipes for painting dark brass? I find brazen brass (or preferred equivalent) mixed with a brown ink makes a good dark brass base.
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Feb 7, 2012 21:47
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Okay, I can definately tell I am rusty at painting models. My first GK didn't turn out well. It seems that when I paint with waterede down paints, they want to settle into all the crevices and cracks and ruin the detail. Or they require so many coats of paint that it doesn't matter if it's watered or not. FML. And watering down metallic paints makes them unusable for me, I suck at this.
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Feb 7, 2012 22:24
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DJ Dizzy posted:Okay, I can definately tell I am rusty at painting models. My first GK didn't turn out well. It seems that when I paint with waterede down paints, they want to settle into all the crevices and cracks and ruin the detail. Or they require so many coats of paint that it doesn't matter if it's watered or not. FML. And watering down metallic paints makes them unusable for me, I suck at this. The art of getting your paints to the desired consistency is difficult. The paint should flow on and off the brush. It shouldn't be gloppy nor run places you don't want. You might have to much paint on your brush, as a mental counter to using thin paints. Your paint should be thick enough, that when you dab your brush on a paper towel, paint remains in the brush. If you dab your brush on a paper towel, and it comes running out, your paint is too thin! This is all rough estimates, but it sounds like you were painting with either too much paint on your brush, or too much water in your paint. On a side note, you totally discovered how to make your own washes. How big of a brush are you using? Are you using a size 4 brush for detail work, for example?
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Feb 7, 2012 22:43
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How does one get "Stone" type effects on stuff like walls? I ask because this is some terrain I've finished up and the wall sections look fine from far away but up close they look more like grey playdoh. Just painted them grey and then a heavy wash of mud. Probably fine for the time being but I'm thinking big and kind of want to do a whole European Village which would mean painting a lot of "rock". Edit: Perhaps I'm being overcritical of my work?
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Feb 8, 2012 00:10
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I can't give a useful answer, but for modelling remember that the tabletop look is usually the most important.
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Feb 8, 2012 00:13
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Miles O'Brian posted:This is great but I can't help but notice you've put your paints back in the wrong slots. Tanned Flesh != Midnight Blue. It was actually my local GW's paint thing so I didn't label them :P
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Feb 8, 2012 00:18
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Numlock posted:How does one get "Stone" type effects on stuff like walls?
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Feb 8, 2012 00:18
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stabbington posted:Drybrush some lighter greys to give your stones some highlights, focusing on the surfaces that are exposed to light. For some extra realism, whip up some brown, red, and blue washes and apply them to random stones to pull in some natural differentiation in rock color. Now that you say that it seems obvious, I'll try that on some more wall sections.
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Feb 8, 2012 00:29
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stabbington posted:Drybrush some lighter greys to give your stones some highlights, focusing on the surfaces that are exposed to light. For some extra realism, whip up some brown, red, and blue washes and apply them to random stones to pull in some natural differentiation in rock color. Basically go outside and take a really good look at some actual stone walls. Plenty of variation in textures and colors. Make sure to get a bit moss in the cracks to complete the look.
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Feb 8, 2012 00:32
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Is there any safe bastion to post a WiP thread in the internet? I stopped posting over at Warseer when they fragmented their Modeling, Painting and terrain threads into uselessness. Cross viewing and posting is more important then worrying that your thread is gonna slide off the front page in a few hours, in my opinion. No matter the category you only get three people posting, which is a shame considering the sheer number of posters on the site. I stopped posting at Waaagh.com because everyone is overly critical. I don't mean I suck and need to work more, I mean that if you state the scope of your project is to speed paint 200 Orks in two days, I don't want a slew of posts telling me to add four layers of highlights. In a similar vein, you just cant have enough rivets for the waaagh.com, apparently. I haven't tried Bell of Lost Souls, I can't seem to see what their traffic is like. Anyone have any luck there? I've been posting at DakkaDakka for a really long time, but for fucks sake right now they have a thread for Pony Marines, some guy using paper cutouts to make a Power Ranger army, and a guy making a Toy Story Buzz Lightyear army. (He gets a pass though, its for his son.) Not to mention the king of DakkaDakka, Dr.Thunder. Maybe I'm just being cranky but for fucks sake, is there anywhere else on the web that gets good traffic and does SOMETHING to stem the flow of poo poo? Obviously I post good hallmarks of my work here, but this isn't the right forum for regular WiP posting.
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Feb 8, 2012 00:52
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Dr. Thunder's on Dakka now? BOLS Lounge is pretty awful. Bolter and Chainsword is alright for painting but I don't know how visible an Ork log will be on there. Dakka is probably the best place, unfortunately. Just ignore the fact that the 12 year olds flock to stupid projects and you'll be fine. You could also try putting up a real blog. Enroll it in the few major blog rolls and you should have a slow stream of followers.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:17
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Started working on this little guy: I need to find a way to make his mouth more defined. Maybe line it with a fleshy colour instead of trying to darken it with wash.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:45
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^^ What on earth is that? It looks pretty funky. Rapid fire question, what's the best way to highlight Fortress Grey? Mix with skull white? I think I've asked this before but not too sure, sorry if I've repeated myself.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:48
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Numlock posted:How does one get "Stone" type effects on stuff like walls? I cheat and use Krylon Make It Stone, which is a textured spray. Basically it makes any flat surface be textured well and drybrush better. Here's a guy making a bunker with it: http://swchq.co.uk/simple_bunker.php GW also used to sell a textured primer, but they stopped and I don't think any other company picked up the slack.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:50
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Flipswitch posted:^^ What on earth is that? It looks pretty funky. Bushwooly. Got it thrown in for free with some other miniatures that I ordered.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:54
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malal posted:Is there any safe bastion to post a WiP thread in the internet? I wouldn't mind (a lot of) WiP posting, in fact I would love to see more. 
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Feb 8, 2012 02:12
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I don't mind the waaagh to be honest. They aren't afraid to tell someone their barbie titan is poo poo, which is a breath of fresh air from the enablers at Dakka and Warseer. Their standards are probably a little too high and theres a culture of "scratch build or go home" but its good for traffic and inspiration. I think the rivets thing is mostly an inside joke. But its true.
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Feb 8, 2012 02:49
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I cheat and use Krylon Make It Stone, which is a textured spray. Basically it makes any flat surface be textured well and drybrush better. Here's a guy making a bunker with it: http://swchq.co.uk/simple_bunker.php ugh, why cant modellers take non-blurry photos of their work. or people in general? its not like film where you have a finite quantity of film and if you gently caress them all up welp pick the least poo poo. put your camera on a bean bag, or turn the lights on. then take ten photos. post the best one then delete the rest. --------------- on a side note, i've been asked to paint the mech on this years Battletech trophy.  omg responsibility. -----------  I'm struggling with this one, I'm wanting to paint it a ludicrous barbie pink but even adding blood red to P3 carnal pink i only get a Baby pink colour. I thought adding some Grey camo stripes to it would improve but im dissatisfied. Where can i go from here?
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Feb 8, 2012 03:16
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Whats the going rate for pretty well painted miniatures on ebay/warseer these days (I have good warseer rep, even if that place is a shithole)? I just need to downsize the hell out of my miniatures collection and I have a lot of random poo poo thats well painted but that I don't really like or care about. Here's three of the random dudes as an example:    I was assuming something in the ten to fifteen dollar range, is this accurate?
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Feb 8, 2012 03:25
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I got yer WIP right here! I've managed to start the rear part of the fuselage for the Thunderhawk, so now it looks less like a sandcrawler and more like an incredibly ugly tadpole    The hatch looking things towards the rear are supposed to be flaps. A sharp eye will note all sorts of irregular panels, spars and other stuff on the skin; I have done this to represent the fact that Thunderhawks undoubtedly take a beating in their lives and are probably subject to all manner of battlefield repairs and the like to keep them air (and space) worthy. Some more WIPs:  A warhound scout titan was my first large scale scratchbuild project, and it really shows. Using left overs from that model, I built this Knight without the aid of any plans. I never did finish it, but it is sitting in a case near my workbench waiting for some attention some day. Looking back, I want to rebuild the waist and the gun arm, and probably the close combat weapon too. Guitar strings should do well for cables.  Here's a shot of the aforementioned warhound. I feel kinda bad about it to be honest. It is such a neat model to build, but I don't think I really did it justice and my skill with plastic is now so much better than when I started it. I should really finish painting the damned thing one of these days. Fearless fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Feb 8, 2012 |
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Feb 8, 2012 03:46
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I just got a finecast Eldrad in the mail. Holy poo poo. I should have done some research before i bought it. Absolutely horrible quality. It's coming apart in some places, and absolutely warped to poo poo in others. Even the ok parts look like dick. Is this normal?
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Feb 8, 2012 05:13
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Its not "normal" in the sense that its supposed to be like that, so send it back. It is "normal" in the sense that it happens alot, yes. Never ever ever buy finecast from ebay or anywhere that doesn't exchange.
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Feb 8, 2012 05:19
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Miles O'Brian posted:Its not "normal" in the sense that its supposed to be like that, so send it back. It is "normal" in the sense that it happens alot, yes. Ordered it from ebay. Lesson learned 
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Feb 8, 2012 05:37
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Even if the seller doesn't accept returns it's worth it to take a minute and message them. For the most part most eBay sellers will do whatever they can to make sure you give them good feedback, and if they don't answer you or tell you "LOL should have looked @ the picture, noob" start a case with eBay and they'll probably make it so you can return.
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Feb 8, 2012 05:39
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