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I got one of the bottle openers that you would normally attach to the side of your counter or something.  I have an extra fridge in the garage for just beer and I would really like to attach it to the fridge. It doesn't need to be pretty, just need to on there tight as poo poo forever. I was thinking of picking up some kind of epoxy at Home Depot. Any suggestions?
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Feb 7, 2012 07:34
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Large rare-earth magnet. http://www.magnet4less.com/ 50-lb pull force: http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=122&osCsid=e46a2ab451fdce6c363a290e19e92812 PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Feb 7, 2012 |
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Feb 7, 2012 16:35
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I have a flourescent celing light in the kitchen and while changing the bulbs I shattered the wraparound diffuser/Cover. I checked Home Depot/Lowes and they only have one brand that wont fit. How can I find the model/name of my flourescent light? Or is there anyplace online I can search by size for a cover? It looks to be 48x7.5x1.5
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Feb 7, 2012 17:41
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There should be a sticker on it somewhere with the specs. It may be on the top or sides, and not obvious.Kali11324 posted:I got one of the bottle openers that you would normally attach to the side of your counter or something. I like the rare earth magnet idea a lot better, though.
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Feb 7, 2012 18:06
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Pokkahn posted:I have a flourescent celing light in the kitchen and while changing the bulbs I shattered the wraparound diffuser/Cover. I checked Home Depot/Lowes and they only have one brand that wont fit. How can I find the model/name of my flourescent light? Or is there anyplace online I can search by size for a cover? It looks to be 48x7.5x1.5 You might be poo poo outta luck, fluorescent fixture manufacturers aren't too good at marking their products. Still, try taking out the bulbs, then take off the ballast cover. You might find some identifying marks in there. Don't use the ones off the ballast itself, those are just specs for the ballast. You could try taking the fixture off the ceiling and looking for a sticker on the backside too.
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Feb 7, 2012 19:23
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kid sinister posted:You might be poo poo outta luck, fluorescent fixture manufacturers aren't too good at marking their products. Still, try taking out the bulbs, then take off the ballast cover. You might find some identifying marks in there. Don't use the ones off the ballast itself, those are just specs for the ballast. You could try taking the fixture off the ceiling and looking for a sticker on the backside too. Concur. For what a new lens will cost you, getting a new fixture is probably a better plan. You can also take the lens to all the supply houses and ask for help.
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Feb 8, 2012 06:54
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My mother's house has a detached garage with a glass block window. Several blocks have been broken, and we are in a time crunch to do something about it. It is way too cold, and I am way too busy, to learn how to replace individual blocks. Can I just bust out the broken blocks and mortar them in? I can't really put this off as the homeowner's insurance is going to issue a cancellation notice if this and a few other issues aren't fixed very quickly. We're talking "They want pictures by Monday" kind of quickly. If that doesn't work, what other options do I have? Replacing the window is out. Could I cheat and fill them with some kind of expanding foam stuff, then have them fixed the right way when the weather warms up?
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Feb 9, 2012 06:01
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A chunk of 3/8 inch plywood cut to size and nailed over the window from the outside should be enough to pass muster. Ghetto as hell, but it gives you motivation to fix it properly once it warms up! Mortar, especially quickcrete-brand like you'd find at home depot or lowes, doesn't work too well (read: at all) below 32 degrees.
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Feb 9, 2012 08:00
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Tried the plywood route already and it's not going anywhere. The building's made of concrete block, so there's no nailing into that. The blocks are those wavy semidecorative types, so I couldn't even drill and screw it if I wanted to. Does outdoor-strength double-sided tape exist? Even more ghetto, but I already have the wood.
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Feb 9, 2012 15:45
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you ate my cat posted:Tried the plywood route already and it's not going anywhere. The building's made of concrete block, so there's no nailing into that. The blocks are those wavy semidecorative types, so I couldn't even drill and screw it if I wanted to. Does outdoor-strength double-sided tape exist? Even more ghetto, but I already have the wood. Your problem is that the glass is broken. The window is a lost cause, right? So put another piece of wood on the inside and bolt the two pieces together. Run two of the bolts through the glass right at sill level at opposite corners to support the wood. If you stuff the edges with open-cell foam (like you'd use around window AC units), it'd be reasonably bug/weather -tight, although still vulnerable to water.
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Feb 9, 2012 15:51
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What's a good tape measure for a basic homeowner? I love the idea of poking my cat with the FatMax 11' standout, but really all I need is a tape that's accurate and easy to use in the 25-30' range. ~$20 or less unless it's super awesome. It will get light use (possibly redoing floors), and won't get too beat up. I looked at those ultrasonic room measures that tell you length, area, and volume, but they seem gimmicky and are generally only listed as accurate within an inch. As a gadgetophile they are tempting though. I have a cheapy, but it's hard as hell to read (no foot markings for some reason, only inches, and tiny type) and is a little too willing to rewind itself. EDIT: This question may seem dumb as hell, but sometimes experts surprise me in their choice of tools, and the reasons for those choices. The Aphasian fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Feb 9, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 16:27
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If you can find one, I have a Stanley that reads in both metric and standard. Beyond that, I prefer self locking for around the house and nylon is less reflective and easier to read. Just buy one you like. I have probably half a dozen, a small 6' Stanley for my pocket, a 16' Komelon for the house, a 12' Craftsman I've had since I was a kid, 16' Stanley metric/standard for the shop, a 30' Lufkin for outside work, several generics laying around tool boxes.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:23
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As a property adjuster that may be measuring 20-40 rooms a day, I spent the extra cash in 1997 to get a Fat Max after too many cheap tapes let go in the middle of an inspection within months, or weeks, of purchase (plus, they couldn't stand out more than 3-4-feet). Never looked back. They're durable, easy to read, excellent standout, and a decent warranty to boot (I've had two fail unexpectedly; one tore, the other one had the cleat fly off when I retracted it from full length) Home Depot replaced them on the spot, no questions asked. The Stanleys last at least a year before the first ten feet start to curl (which is not a problem for normal homeowner use); then, they get retired for home use. The one I have now is three years old and has been through extremely heavy work volume. I also use the Bosch laser measure ($99 at Home Depot) and it saves me a ton of time - it's less practical for smaller rooms with a lot of pushouts or recesses, though. I have confirmed it as accurate to within 1/8". At home: tape measure. The Bosch I use mostly for work. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Feb 9, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 18:03
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The Aphasian posted:What's a good tape measure for a basic homeowner? I love the idea of poking my cat with the FatMax 11' standout, but really all I need is a tape that's accurate and easy to use in the 25-30' range. ~$20 or less unless it's super awesome. It will get light use (possibly redoing floors), and won't get too beat up.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:14
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you ate my cat posted:The blocks are those wavy semidecorative types, so I couldn't even drill and screw it if I wanted to. Does outdoor-strength double-sided tape exist? Putting plywood on either side of the window with foam in between and running some big lag bolts to hold them together is definitely a better idea, but yes, tape exists, it's called VHB tape. It's ridiculously strong: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Product/Bonding-Tapes/VHB-Tape/
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Feb 9, 2012 19:26
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If standard/metric on the same tape isn't a concern, I'd recommend one with graduations on both edges of the tape. I have one with inches that go all the way across, but the fractional ones are only on one edge. It's difficult to use in a lot of situations, which is why I got a nice Stanley one a little while back. So like this, not like this.
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Feb 9, 2012 19:40
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If it's still in the budget, get one with marks on both sides. I got a Husky 25' at Home Depot for $11 with magnets in the tip and marks on both sides. I dropped it once with the blade locked out at around 3' and the blade cracked, so I replaced that one with a feature-identical Klein. $11 was a sale price, but I think they float around $20. Magnet tips are great for picking up dropped screws and nails, too.
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Feb 9, 2012 23:29
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Someone's toilet overflowed upstairs and now water is pooling in the overhead light in my bathroom. Landlord is unavailable right now, so I just turned the fuse off. Is that enough to stave off electrical death for a night before I get a hold of him in the morning?
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Feb 10, 2012 02:01
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Yes. If the switch is properly wired, just leaving the switch off should cut any current to the light's junction box. If you can remove the globe & let the water out, do so. Take the bulb out as well. The electrical stuff will dry out & will be fine. I would give it a couple-three days to do so. You DO NOT want to energize the circuit while it's wet. VV If it's a glass globe-type thing, then usually the entire globe unscrews from the fixture. sometimes you have to jiggle them a little bit to get 'em started PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Feb 10, 2012 |
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Feb 10, 2012 03:20
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Thanks. It's one of those light covers that doesn't have any visible screws or knobs, so I guess I'll just leave it for now. I don't want to mess up and cover myself with toilet water.
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Feb 10, 2012 03:52
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I'm about to mount a flat screen TV to regular painted sheetrock wall. I'll need to mark the locations of the studs and do some other layout lines on the wall. Any suggestions on what I can use to make these marks that will wash off easily once I'm done?
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Feb 10, 2012 15:37
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Chalk pencil + chalk line. Go easy, don't want to dent it with a heavy drawing hand.
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Feb 10, 2012 15:41
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm about to mount a flat screen TV to regular painted sheetrock wall. I'll need to mark the locations of the studs and do some other layout lines on the wall. Any suggestions on what I can use to make these marks that will wash off easily once I'm done? I've used pencil before. Using a good eraser (not the cheap, plasticy smudgy kind) is the key part, but my wife's an art teacher so we have a lot of kneaded erasers. Soft leads are also easier to erase and are less likely to score your wall. Thanks everyone for the tape measure advice, you gave me features to look for, but it seems to be highly subjective once those conditions are met. I guess I'll go to Home Depot and play with a bunch of them, find what feels right.
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Feb 10, 2012 15:44
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm about to mount a flat screen TV to regular painted sheetrock wall. I'll need to mark the locations of the studs and do some other layout lines on the wall. Any suggestions on what I can use to make these marks that will wash off easily once I'm done? I've used masking tape. Stick it on in approximately the right areas, and then use a pencil to mark the exact mounting points using a level, etc. Works well for outlining the TV on the wall too if you want to get an idea of how it's going to look.
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Feb 10, 2012 15:53
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One Day Fish Sale posted:masking tape That's a fantastic solution. Remember not to leave it on for more than a day or two, it steadily loses the ability to get pulled off with no damage.
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Feb 10, 2012 16:00
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One Day Fish Sale posted:I've used masking tape. Stick it on in approximately the right areas, and then use a pencil to mark the exact mounting points using a level, etc. Works well for outlining the TV on the wall too if you want to get an idea of how it's going to look. Brilliant, thanks! I have several rolls of low tack green and blue tape that will work perfectly.
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Feb 10, 2012 16:10
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One Day Fish Sale posted:I've used masking tape. Stick it on in approximately the right areas, and then use a pencil to mark the exact mounting points using a level, etc. Works well for outlining the TV on the wall too if you want to get an idea of how it's going to look.
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Feb 10, 2012 17:30
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I have been having a problem with my dishwasher leaving a white residue on dishes and silverware. I have run CLR through it four separate times and it seem to help for a few loads then it's back to white residue as usual. It does this with every type of detergent I have tried. Is there something else I can do to try and stop this so I don't have to wash my dishes after I wash my dishes? Is it super hard water maybe?
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Feb 10, 2012 21:45
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GreglFaggins posted:I have been having a problem with my dishwasher leaving a white residue on dishes and silverware. I have run CLR through it four separate times and it seem to help for a few loads then it's back to white residue as usual. It does this with every type of detergent I have tried. Is there something else I can do to try and stop this so I don't have to wash my dishes after I wash my dishes? Is it super hard water maybe? It sound like it's the new low-phosphate detergent formulations, I don't think there's anything you really can do about it, but IIRC Consumer Reports tested a few and found that some worked at most satisfactorily.
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Feb 10, 2012 22:02
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One Day Fish Sale posted:I've used masking tape. Stick it on in approximately the right areas, and then use a pencil to mark the exact mounting points using a level, etc. Works well for outlining the TV on the wall too if you want to get an idea of how it's going to look. If you're worried about the tape messing up the wall, use blue painter's tape.
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Feb 11, 2012 00:06
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Grave $avings posted:It sound like it's the new low-phosphate detergent formulations, I don't think there's anything you really can do about it, but IIRC Consumer Reports tested a few and found that some worked at most satisfactorily. I'll look into that, thank you. There aren't any filters in a dishwasher I could change out are there? I know dick about dishwashers. E: I also found the Consumer Reports article, but I'm not subscribing to find out which detergent works best and every other article I can find just parrots their truncated one. What detergents have worked best for anyone that cares to answer? E2: Thanks, I'll give that a try. VVVVV MesquiteLog fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Feb 11, 2012 |
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Feb 11, 2012 00:27
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GreglFaggins posted:I'll look into that, thank you. We've been using powdered Cascade Complete here, and we have no complaints. Of course we use it in conjunction with JetDry or whatever you call those rinsing aids, but the combination seems quite effective.
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Feb 11, 2012 00:47
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GreglFaggins posted:I have been having a problem with my dishwasher leaving a white residue on dishes and silverware. Mine has been doing that too. I thought it was just getting old. Using a hot wash and rinse helped dramatically but it still happens occasionally. We use Cascade liquid. I tried another brand but it was worse.
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Feb 11, 2012 06:20
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Dear Goons, I have a drilled well in my house with an in well pump, a in house bladder tank, a water softener tank and a small sediment filter. Yesterday someone who will remain my wife let a toilet run all day draining the well. I was overjoyed this morning when I turned the pump on and water leapt from the faucets and filled the toilets. I am less pleased that it is filthy sediment ridden water. Other than changing the filter, running water and hoping for the best what can I do? Do I need to call the well guys?
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Feb 11, 2012 16:42
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Dumb question in regards to heat insulation: The apartment below me is empty since quite a few months. This winter, it's especially cold and from what I can feel with my feet, the one below me isn't heated at all. The floor's tiled, so heat's going to gently caress off through the floor thanks to heat sinking (I think). Would throwing more carpets (which could parallel as redecoration project) onto the floor create a better insulation, or would the heat just continue to spread below the carpet?
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Feb 12, 2012 20:58
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Heat rises. Tile floors feel cold because they conduct heat well, meaning they take it right of your feet. Having carpet down will make your floor feel less cold on your feet but it wouldn't have any noticeable impact on actual heat dissipation in the room. E. Wait by heat sinking do you mean 'like a heat sink' or 'the opposite of heat rising'? Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 21:09
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Heat sink. While I'm aware that the air on the ground is a little colder, a more cold floor would act as a heat sink. I was wondering if lowering the surface with carpets had any tangible effect. --edit: Well, rugs, not carpets. Failing at English. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 21:18
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Ok, I hope you guys can provide some insight because I'm drat near at the end of my rope. I live in a rental house built in the 1930s, with a master bedroom added on some time later. The master bedroom electrical flickers. It has been getting worse over time. At first it was just the lights that would flicker down to a brown out level and buzz a bit. Then the fan we had plugged in would drop in RPMs dramatically. Now we get mini power outages causing stuff like alarm clocks to reset. Naturally this never happens when the electrician has been here on other issues. It will happen at random times during the day and night for about a month, up to about an hour in total time, then disappear for two or three months, then come back worse. There is no correlation to appliances, lights, anything cycling on and off that I can tell. We had an electrician out fixing another issue and he suggested there might be loose wires in the outlets since it's an old house. Indeed there were, so I tightened them all down, the ones on that circuit anyhow. The issue persists. What can I tell the rental company needs to be done? Obviously getting an electrician out here and hoping it does its thing isn't really practical, but this is getting annoying, destroying light bulbs and causing my alarm clock to reset.
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Feb 12, 2012 23:29
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simpleranger posted:Dear Goons, Either that, or go on vacation for a week* & see what happens when you get back. How deep is the well? Can't wait to see your electric bill... *stay at a family member or in-law's house
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Feb 13, 2012 02:22
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Cakefool posted:Bits are disposable items, a cordless drill is indisposable (&cheap) & if you don't have patience I don't know how you haven't hurt yourself yet  I cut a chunk out of the hidden corner to run cords through. It works really well!
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Feb 13, 2012 04:34
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