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Yeah, KBB lists it as 11.9k (with the rear spoiler and moon roof), and that's in excellent condition. I am buying it from a dealer FWIW.
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Feb 6, 2012 13:03
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Yakattak posted:Yeah, KBB lists it as 11.9k (with the rear spoiler and moon roof), and that's in excellent condition. I am buying it from a dealer FWIW. Look at the trade in value then and haggle from there.
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Feb 6, 2012 18:20
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I did this today... Seized engine + automatic 
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Feb 7, 2012 01:58
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I have a race car rear sub frame question. It applies to any car, but I figured this may be the place to ask. If I have a Ford 8.8" IRS pumpkin bolted to a custom welded tube steel rear subframe with 6 bolts in 3 locations: -Solidly and horizontally through the rear diff cover -With hard rubber/plastic bushings vertically at the front and rear of the pumpkin. Should I set a neutral pinion angle or still a slightly negative pinion angle? Basically will it still want to rise up under heavy acceleration if secured like that in an IRS? EDIT: As soon as I posted this I remembered FFR uses ford 8.8s in their IRS kits. A google on their forum suggested setting it to 0*. Sound right? Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Feb 7, 2012 |
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Feb 7, 2012 04:32
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Random question: would an 04 outback transmission mount to an 02 wrx, and would you want to?
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Feb 8, 2012 09:55
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chrisgt posted:I did this today... I've got one of those chunks as well!
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Feb 8, 2012 11:54
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toplitzin posted:Random question: would an 04 outback transmission mount to an 02 wrx, and would you want to? It will bolt up. The clutch style is different, so you will need a different master and slave, along with TOB and pressure plate I think? I did the exact opposite swap of Turbo gearbox onto NA car. It can be done, you just need more parts. Also you'll need another rear differential. You'd be going from 3.9 with a 3.4? rear diff to a 4.11 with a 4.11 rear diff. Find another wrx box, or find an FXT or LGT box/diff if you can pay for it.
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Feb 8, 2012 13:39
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Aside from needing all new clutch parts and hydraulic parts. and a diff that isn't 3.54, the outback transmission has a really short 5th gear. I'm pretty sure the OBW 5th gear is 0.871 ratio, and your wrx is 0.738. If you ever drive an outback on the highway you'll realize it sucks, you're at like 3500 RPMs to go 70mph, and that has bigger tires than your WRX. It would be even worse. Oh, and don't forget, your speedometer will be wrong, so you'd have to go get one of those $100 boxes to make it happy again.
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Feb 8, 2012 14:51
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chrisgt posted:Oh, and don't forget, your speedometer will be wrong, so you'd have to go get one of those $100 boxes to make it happy again. I was looking into it when I was considering swapping my busted 3.9 for a 4.11. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 8, 2012 |
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Feb 8, 2012 17:54
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I was bored and trolling craigslist, so no worries.
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Feb 8, 2012 19:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Speedometer should be right from what I see; Subaru appears to change the ring gear inside each transmission so that they're effectively interchangeable and read the same on the speedo. I've never seen that. But all I know is when SlowIS fast changed from a 4.11 box to the 4.44 box, it messed up the speedo. And a few people have told me if I swap the 4.44 auto in my car to a higher geared 5speed, I'll need a calibration box. But I wouldn't call what people tell me hard evidence.
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Feb 8, 2012 20:13
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Yeah, I couldn't find any solid confirmation on my car. I'm probably going to rebuild the 3.9 and sell the 4.11 on, especially since it's a cable speedo so a conversion box would probably not work. edit: OK, it does look like you either need to swap the worm gear or deal with a speedometer that's 'off'. The worm gear isn't hard to swap once the box is open, though. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 8, 2012 |
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Feb 8, 2012 20:15
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, I couldn't find any solid confirmation on my car. I'm probably going to rebuild the 3.9 and sell the 4.11 on, especially since it's a cable speedo so a conversion box would probably not work. Swapping the gear once the tranny is open isn't a big deal. Also, just using a digital converter box isn't a big deal, albiet a bit more expensive. What difference does it make that it's a cable transmission? Take the 17mm plastic nut thing out that holds the cable in, and put a regular VSS in there. You can swap cable to VSS, or VSS to cable. It's the same on the transmission side. EDIT: or, are you saying your car has a cable speedo? They do make conversion boxes for that too, cable goes into it, and a cable comes out of it to the speedo head. They're expensive as hell though.
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Feb 8, 2012 21:06
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chrisgt posted:EDIT: or, are you saying your car has a cable speedo? They do make conversion boxes for that too, cable goes into it, and a cable comes out of it to the speedo head. They're expensive as hell though. Either way, keeping the 4.11 means I have to buy and fit a new diff and a rebuild looks cheaper since it's just some bearing that's failed and can apparently be replaced without pulling the transmission off the car.
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Feb 8, 2012 21:25
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The rear input shaft bearing? I thought the case had to be split for that. Some imprezas came with 4.11 transmissions. I have one from a 94 impreza (bell housing sticker matches) that's a 4.11. So there's possibility you could just swap out gauge clusters. Or at the least, the speedo head. I know all the changes between years on the Legacy ones, but I know Jack poo poo about impreza stuff.
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Feb 9, 2012 06:30
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I don't know the specific name of the bearing, but according to the master tech I talked to it's a pretty common failure (the bearing is starved for oil when the transmission is cold as the oil first has to pass through the gallery for a different bearing to get there) and he used to do a few of them a week, each without having to drop the tranny or presumably crack the case. I'll be interested to see how he does it for sure.
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Feb 9, 2012 07:11
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I have a 2004 forester with leaking head gaskets. It has 100K miles. I read previously in this thread that this is a known issue. I have a couple of questions before I have this done: 1. I've already had the timing belt changed 10K miles ago with the waterpump and associated parts (tensioner, etc.). Is there anything else besides that I should have looked at while they are in there? 2. The gasket only lasted ~100K miles? Does the new gasket they replace it with have a better lifetime? Should I requested a third party gasket that will not fail in 100K miles, or has this issue been adressed. 3. How much is a fair price for this service? Thanks for any help!
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Feb 9, 2012 14:31
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Request the STi head gaskets as they don't have the same leak issue the N/A cars do.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't know the specific name of the bearing, but according to the master tech I talked to it's a pretty common failure (the bearing is starved for oil when the transmission is cold as the oil first has to pass through the gallery for a different bearing to get there) and he used to do a few of them a week, each without having to drop the tranny or presumably crack the case. I'll be interested to see how he does it for sure. Looks like all you need to do is pull the prop shaft and then replace the oil seal. It would appear to be rather simple looking. 
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Feb 9, 2012 16:12
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Amandyke posted:Looks like all you need to do is pull the prop shaft and then replace the oil seal. It would appear to be rather simple looking.  But yeah, I'm guessing that's how he'll get at it. Is the centre diff removable without cracking the case? That might also be part of the job.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:But yeah, I'm guessing that's how he'll get at it. Is the centre diff removable without cracking the case? That might also be part of the job. Yes it is possible, the transfer case housing is unbolt-able from the main transmission casing. If you happen to need a center diff, my buddy who grenaded his 3rd gear has one that he pulled out of his old transmission when we disassembled the thing to learn a bit on how the transmission works. 
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Feb 9, 2012 17:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Since the gearbox sounds like either hockey cards in bicycle spokes or a straight cut gearbox in a rock tumbler I'm guessing the bearing itself has died. Yea, center diff can come off with the tranny in car. My GL's transmission sounded like that. Kind of like putting a paint can full of rocks in a paint shaker. It was easier to just put another one in. ... But that looks pretty easy.
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Feb 9, 2012 17:45
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LorneReams posted:I have a 2004 forester with leaking head gaskets. It has 100K miles. I read previously in this thread that this is a known issue. I have a couple of questions before I have this done: I just had them done in my 2007, they lasted a little less than 70K. You're probably fine with the timing belt and ancillaries, I also did the plugs at the same time. I grabbed the head gasket kit from Rockauto, it comes with all the stuff that gets wrecked during the job. Apparently the head bolts were stretched on removal so those got replaced too. I paid a guy up the street $500 for the job. Took him 3 evenings. He has done a couple of STi rebuilds so he knows his way around a Subaru.
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Feb 9, 2012 18:54
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I think I want to get a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Premium (5-door/hatchback). I have a question for this repository of knowledge if ya'll don't mind. How easy is this car/Subarus in general to work on? I have some limited experience working on a Ford Contour, Hyundai Santa Fe, and Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme for some reference points.
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Feb 9, 2012 23:19
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I find Subarus really easy to work on compared to FWD cars, at least in the engine bay. I don't know anything about the 2012 cars, but from what I've heard of the Forester it's now very easy to do basic periodic maintenance like oil and filter changes. Brakes/suspension/etc are all about the same as any other Japanese car. Things on the head (spark plugs, coilpacks, valve covers, valve adjustment, heads, head gaskets) are more difficult to work on than other cars since you have to take accessories (or the entire engine) out to reach them. Things on the front of the engine (timing belt and friends, accessories) usually need you to pull the radiator to get at them but that's not too bad.
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Feb 9, 2012 23:22
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the center diff and bearings on the transfer gears can be changed with the transmission in the car. I do frequently see them go bad. I've also seen the snap ring that holds the center diff together break. That tends to make a lot of noise and I'm fairly certain the snap ring is not a part you can buy on it's own. Replacing any of the bearings on the input or driven shaft means splitting the case and taking the shafts apart, which requires a press and a few special tools. The 2012 impreza uses the new FA/FB whatever 2.0. It has a timing chain and belt driven water pump, so you will not ever have to worry about the timing and the water pump is easier to change. They also went from SOHC on 00+ n/a EJs to DOHC, which makes spark plugs slightly harder to change. The only thing you'll have to do for the first 60k is change the engine and gear oil, air filter, and brake fluid. Then at 60k, coolant and plugs. Then at about 100 the water pump. You don't actually NEED to pull the radiator to do anything (I've changed plenty of timing belts with still hooked up), but if you're changing the water pump the coolant gets drained so you might as well. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Feb 10, 2012 |
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Feb 9, 2012 23:58
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Totally TWISTED posted:I think I want to get a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Premium (5-door/hatchback). I have a question for this repository of knowledge if ya'll don't mind. How easy is this car/Subarus in general to work on? Very easy. Occasional special tool required but in all pretty much the simpliest car I've set spanner to in many years
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Feb 10, 2012 00:00
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jamal posted:the center diff and bearings on the transfer gears can be changed with the transmission in the car. I do frequently see them go bad. I've also seen the snap ring that holds the center diff together break. That tends to make a lot of noise and I'm fairly certain the snap ring is not a part you can buy on it's own.
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Feb 10, 2012 00:15
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I'd rather work on five subarus over one jeep cherokee. And people say cherokees are easy....
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Feb 10, 2012 00:29
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Thanks for the feedback guys 
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Feb 10, 2012 00:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Not to derail this further into "my junk transmission" chat, but the noise goes away in fifth gear. It's eerily silent. I have no idea what that points to. It even does it in neutral (but doesn't when I rev with the clutch in) so I'm curious what part that is. I fear something related to the input shaft. I would say the at the very least the rear of the trans is going to have to come off to find out.
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Feb 10, 2012 01:22
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Are the RA 1st and 2nd gears as loud as the factory subaru reverse?
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Feb 10, 2012 02:16
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If it makes noise while he's stopped, can't you automatically rule out transfer or center diff gears? Wouldn't that automatically mean it must be an input gear.
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Feb 10, 2012 02:30
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yep. plus 5th is outside of the main casing of the transmission.
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Feb 10, 2012 02:44
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Lord Gaga posted:Are the RA 1st and 2nd gears as loud as the factory subaru reverse? If so, no because that's what I have.
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Feb 10, 2012 03:04
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Lord Gaga posted:Are the RA 1st and 2nd gears as loud as the factory subaru reverse? Only if they're straight cut, which I really doubt. Even the kind of people that want the RA trim would get tired of the hellish noise pretty quickly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmJH84FnQa8
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Feb 10, 2012 03:11
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currently assembling the next round of parts. Lots of Whiteline and TiC. I will call this the jamal collection.
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Feb 10, 2012 03:21
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law abiding rapist posted:Only if they're straight cut, which I really doubt. Even the kind of people that want the RA trim would get tired of the hellish noise pretty quickly. That...noise... my word. It sounds great 1st-3rd and then he hits 4th and it starts to get a bit high pitched, then 5th rolls around and I swear my wine glasses in the kitchen started to burst.
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Feb 10, 2012 05:38
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What is the general opinion of StopTech SS brake lines? I have them sitting here with some Motul RBF600 fluid ready to go in but I thought I would ask anyway. Dangerous? Sweet? Awful? I tried to find some "good" ones. I don't want to be cheap or take chances on brakes. I figured rotors and pads can wait until I actually need to replace them.
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Feb 10, 2012 05:44
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What is the general opinion of StopTech SS brake lines? I have them sitting here with some Motul RBF600 fluid ready to go in but I thought I would ask anyway. Dangerous? Sweet? Awful? I tried to find some "good" ones. I don't want to be cheap or take chances on brakes.
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Feb 10, 2012 05:50
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