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HoWSeR posted:some time ago I asked about on road drift cars, I went ahead and got the tamiya TA05 VDF, Just finished putting it together.
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# ? Feb 11, 2012 00:48 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:35 |
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MEGA POST AHEADkrushgroove posted:Are you with one of the aftermarket companies now? There are some big ones over there Yeah, we do some of our own manufacturing, but mostly retail/distribution of all things 1/5, and a lot of HPI as we are set up as a distributor for them. Dave's Discount Motors ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Lots of great pics of cars etc HoWSeR posted:And now, some shameless pictures of my Hot Bodies Cyclone S set up for drifting, and my cup racer! Warning, the cup racer chat will escalate and many of you will end up buying one after looking at it. I couldn't get a good angled picture for the roof, but I have the sunburst flag on top. The windows, hood, and trunk have the Flat Clear sprayed on, and the red is just gloss red. Both of these were just rattle canned and I think turned out awesome. The body accessory kit for the Silvia looks sweet, the intercooler and far can set it off, and the molded plastic wing looks a lot better than the usual lexan ones. It also has blue and white headlights, blue underglow lights, and tail lights. The blue headlights and tail lights will strobe to different patterns too. It is so it demands love and respect. <can someone photoshop that in between the cars in this pic? tia looks like EDIT: I forgot to add, the other week I got to take a new Losi 5IVE-T to test out. The thing is pretty drat big, this is a picture of it next to my (very dirty) Baja 5-T Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 11, 2012 |
# ? Feb 11, 2012 02:02 |
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You Am I posted:Wow, that almost looks like a TA04 but with the spur/pinion on the other side. Strange setup for a TA05, usually they ran the motor on one side of the chassis, like the 415. I assume the motor was moved for better drifting? i'm still new at this hobby so i'm not really sure but I have seen other drift chassis built with the same motor setup. Somewhat Heroic posted:SCX10 SPOTTED! That Tamiya looks sick! The local hobby shop I used to work at has one in stock and it looks AWESOME! I would totally get it, but just don't want to spend that much on a car I will slip and slide with. I would consider the Hot Bodies Cyclone D-SPEC since parts would be more easily accessible to me. haha glad you noticed the SCX10, loved it the first day I got it, wife wants one now, really need to grab some metal links for it. Those hot bodies look awesome! and yeah now I want that Datson. holy crap that Losi 5IVE-T is huge! how was the drive? Starting on my next project now, should be done soon, I live next to a desert so i'm gonna make a dune bashing truck out of a 2wd Slash. Should have the rest of the parts in next week.
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# ? Feb 11, 2012 15:59 |
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Sweet datsun cup racer. If a class of them ever takes off around here, I'm going to have to purchase one!
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# ? Feb 11, 2012 16:06 |
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I've never raced before but I wanna get into it. Though its been 15 years since I even regularly drove a RC car, and that was just a toy one i got for Christmas. The closet track to me that has regular races is this indoor place in Seattle. So I was thinking of running a 1/10 scale 4WD touring car. I found this while looking at various kits Schumacher Mi4CX But I realize its probably a bit high end for someone just starting out. Anyone got any recommendations for a different kit, or recommendations for what i should get if I went with this one? Edit: Here's a link to the various classes the place I want race at runs. http://seattlercracers.com/specsrules/ I figure i would be running in the Novice class and then the Stock Touring class. ElBrak fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Feb 12, 2012 |
# ? Feb 12, 2012 14:50 |
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Find out what your local shop(s) stock and carry, don't go with the prettiest car you see. Local stock is important so you can get parts quicker than ordering online, plus you develop a relationship with the shop. Don't stick the wildest motor you can fit in there, start with a 13.5 or 17.5 stock, whatever the biggest class is. If the same motor is used in local off-road racing (like buggy or short course) then that's all the better, it'll save you a bit if/when you want to try out off-road. I don't know what the TC racing is like in the US right now but see if the sportsman or rookie class uses spec speed controllers that don't have a 'turbo' mode - this has caused a lot of problems in the recent past so it's best to just ask what the local track(s) use. Try the feel of a few different radios if you can (just ask at the track), don't get the one with the most features (it'll blow your mind what you can adjust). You can always sell your first one when you upgrade. You can start racing with an RTR-spec radio but as your skills improve you will be quicker with better electronics. Don't be afraid to buy used, and don't be afraid to ask a second opinion on something you're not sure about. hth
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# ? Feb 12, 2012 15:45 |
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Local parts availability and local experience are much more important metrics than what looks cool - especially for a new racer. Schumacher has always been a boutique brand at the places I've been. I was competitive with an AE TC4 just two seasons ago. Remember that your driving skill is going to be a far bigger hindrance than the weight of your car.
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# ? Feb 12, 2012 16:47 |
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Reading this thread makes me miss racing even the stupid parts. I haven't heard of any racing around my city but I am gonna stop by one of the few RC stores we still have this week and see whats out there. I know there is a big crawling group here which I'll probably check out but I loved 1/10 scale off road so hopefully some of that or even 1/5th is happening also. Oh well credit cards are paid off, good time to re-fill them.
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# ? Feb 12, 2012 18:14 |
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krushgroove posted:Find out what your local shop(s) stock and carry, don't go with the prettiest car you see. Local stock is important so you can get parts quicker than ordering online, plus you develop a relationship with the shop. 2nd hand RC stuff is great, a good portion of my kit, including chargers, are second hand. Usually you have top of the line racers buying a new chassis/equipment each year, so their hand me downs are usually in great condition, and usually half the original price. I find the RC/hobby stores in Australia to be pretty average when it comes to stock, so online RC stores are my mecca. There are some great ones, in both the US and Asia, where you can get parts cheaper than the local store. Just keep that in mind.
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# ? Feb 12, 2012 23:12 |
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Holy poo poo my poor RC8. Didn't realize I had shattered both chassis braces when I cased that triple. Also didn't notice that the motor end cap had nearly rattled off. At least this gives me an excuse to put a losi 22 in my cart.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 02:11 |
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Sportin' some brand new Pitbull Rocker tires!
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 03:04 |
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Scale crawlers are cool as hell. Is there a separate division for scale crawlers? Holy poo poo, I went looking for more examples of scale crawlers. Look at this thing http://store.rc4wd.com/Trail-Finder-2-Truck-Kit-wMojave-Body-Set_p_2108.html . Man that is way cool. Also looks like that store sells what looks to be clones of the old Tamiya Bruiser chassis? Is Tamiya producing that again? Also I ordered a Losi 22. Guess I'll see if needknees got rid of his stock motor he was talking about.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 15:17 |
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There are clubs and websites that arrange meets for the crawler and scale crawler guys, for the competitions they use rules that place precision (not touching gate markers, etc.) ahead of time (so you could do a 10-minute run up a hill and not touch any markers or flip, etc., and beat a guy that did a 4-minute run but touched one gate). RC4WD do a lot of their own kits with chassis, axles, transmission, the works - I think they even do RTR builds but they're way more expensive than the Axial SCX10 for example. Now there's kits like the Wraith which take the scale stuff in a slightly different direction and guys are discovering the Formula Off-Road (FOFF) which is popular in places like Iceland where you can get vertical gravel cliffs to race up.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 15:56 |
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here's the link for the reissue of the Bruiser. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58519 MSRP: $1,295.00
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 16:11 |
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I just talked to my airbrush guy last night, my SCX10 in those pictures will be sporting a new Jeep Comanche "rusted out" body very soon I'm also in the process of ordering some scale bumpers....I may even put on a winch! I've hooked up with a local crawler club, and will be taking part in a club scale trial run & hill climb competition this spring. Plenty of pics will follow. I'm also in the process of getting a decent video camera, so I'll be doing some youtube stuff. Very cool to see that Tamiya is re-issuing the (in)famous Bruiser. A buddy of mine has a bunch of mint vintage Tamiya stuff in his basement, including an original Bruiser. That MSRP price will probably be around 600-700 street price (which is still nuts). From what I gather, a bruiser used to be one of your only choices if you wanted to get into scale r/c several years ago....but now (as krushgroove mentioned) there are ways to get into scale offroad so much cheaper. From what I've seen all Axial stuff is loving awesome. They are relatively cheap, pretty bulletproof, and have a kit for whatever you want (comp crawler, scaler, rock racing).
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 17:22 |
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I'm digging that Trailfinder over the Axial offerings because I wouldn't have to scavenge for a proper body for it. It also looks like the chassis designed with a little more scale realism. (Not to hate on your recent purchase ColonelJohnMatrix it looks hella fun regardless)
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 17:37 |
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The hardbody styrene bodies from Tamiya and RC4WD (plus mega-expensive super-low production run stuff that you might find on crawler forums) generally all bolt onto any scale chassis, it's just a matter of making the mounts to fit since they're all roughly the same size. You can even get some toy-level kits from places like Toys R Us and Wal-Mart with good licensed bodies to fit, you just have to check the wheelbases to make sure they match up. The best thing about the kits from RC4WD is that the motors are usually up front where the engine would sit, with a central transfer box, rather than the layout Axial uses, which is a centrally-mounted motor. For scale 'performance' (to make them drive and act the way the real trucks do) you have to put the batteries or even lead sheeting in the engine area.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 17:44 |
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krushgroove posted:
Yeah, those RC4WD kits are extremely badass. My biggest thing (outside of the price) is that my LHS stocks Axial stuff, so I can keep wheeling without waiting for parts. The SCX10 is my "gateway" drug into the world of scale offroad. I'd definitely like to try out one of those trailfinders.
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# ? Feb 13, 2012 18:08 |
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kuffs posted:I'm digging that Trailfinder over the Axial offerings because I wouldn't have to scavenge for a proper body for it. It also looks like the chassis designed with a little more scale realism. The RC4WD stuff is good and all, but as far as most versatile platform, axial has it locked down.
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# ? Feb 14, 2012 03:47 |
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So I have an off topic question here, Are there any easy to fly planes that could handle the weight of a go pro HD (7 oz) and are capable of 36-70 mph ground speeds? I would love to use them to film guys waterskiing from overhead/behind. Thanks
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 18:36 |
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I don't know planes, but my first thought would be a heli...but since it sounds like you want a beginner plane maybe a simple trainer ARF foam sucker like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXHL5&P=ML But really, I would rethink your plan - you don't know how to fly yet so I wouldn't jump into trying to follow waterskiers. If you have to ditch, there goes your plane with all its gear, for one thing. Ideally you'd join a flying club, learn to fly with confidence, THEN see about following targets on the ground, etc.
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 18:42 |
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Carleton posted:So I have an off topic question here, Better thread for this.. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3386779
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# ? Feb 15, 2012 19:02 |
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Saw this on Advrider's RC thread. "Since 1997, A Man Has Been Digging Out His Basement Using Only R/C Scale-Model Construction Equipment" http://gizmodo.com/5884801/since-1997-a-man-has-been-digging-out-his-basement-using-only-rc-scale+model-construction-equipment Videos of it.. http://jalopnik.com/5884789/a-basement-excavated-a-video-gallery/gallery/2 I've always wanted to try one of the construction type RC units but this is just drat amazine what he's done with it. Edited.. Found more information on it.. http://carscoop.blogspot.com/2012/02/meet-joe-man-who-excavated-his-basement.html Tindjin fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Feb 15, 2012 |
# ? Feb 15, 2012 23:42 |
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that man is living the dream
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# ? Feb 16, 2012 02:30 |
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If he turns over any fallen equipment by hand instead of using an RC tow truck or crane he's cheating but seriously that is epic. I hate it when people use that word for something trivial, but that project is truly epic.
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# ? Feb 16, 2012 13:27 |
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krushgroove posted:I don't know planes, but my first thought would be a heli...but since it sounds like you want a beginner plane maybe a simple trainer ARF foam sucker like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXHL5&P=ML Going to have to disagree here. For something like water skiing where they are generally going pretty straight and at a constant speed a plane is a lot easier to fly and will work just as well. Plus if he is newer to flying he could be flying a plane would be safer for everyone.
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# ? Feb 16, 2012 14:25 |
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Weather permitting, I'll be heading out to my first R/C crawling competition on Sunday! I'm going to get my rear end handed to me, but it will be a good time and I'll be sure and get some pics.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 19:33 |
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Bought a Sprint 2 Flux a few days ago and finally ran it around today after i figured out they plugged the ESC in backwards. Drove it around my road and over the curbs and so far I've lost one of the wheel drive shafts and 2 screws. So instead of a 4wd drive car its a rear wheel drive car now. Still fun as hell though, but i gotta get back to the hobby shop and pick up some replacement parts.
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# ? Feb 17, 2012 22:56 |
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I think I'm done with novak products. Been running Tekin only since switching to electric in 2010. I've had one problem, and that's when my Rx8 esc had a nick in the on/off switch wire when I opened it. Sent back just the esc, had a brand new unopened ESC in my hands within a week. Novak on the other hand....UGH. I'm running VTA this summer and our track requires the novak ballistic 25.5 motor. Within 10 minutes the sensor board stopped working. After talking to other guys at the track it seems this is a common problem because it happened to ALMOST EVERYONE. So I email novak's customer support, and nothing. I give them a call a week later, talk to the tech on the phone and send him my info. Now, a week later and no update. So I call again, they have no record of talking to me at all. I have now missed 4 point series races, and that's why I run Tekin.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 01:24 |
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Novak used to be THE BRAND. They were some of the most sturdy electronics in the business. Innovated many things like one touch setup, the first programmable ESC, and aftermarket receivers. Now their quality is just terrible and there's nothing compelling at all about their products. When I got back into RC the first thing I bought was a Novak Ballistic motor with their fancy pants ESC. Both of them burned out in a season with no hard use. I had a buddy with a brand new 1/18th setup from them that burned out in 5 laps. I had another buddy that was well versed in epoxying rotors because they would come off the spindle. Their current lineup isn't compelling at all, their gear is gigantic, still requires a fan. Programming is limited - no timing advance. And, as you just stated, their support is terrible. Tekin all the way.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 18:09 |
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Is Speed Passion or Hobbywing stuff popular in the States? I know they're not US brands but they're really really good and really challenging brands like LRP. Also, Castle have a cool new programming card that lets you change settings without a PC. It works like a Castle Link but if you're at the track without your laptop it gives you a visual chart to let you know your settings pretty easily.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 21:53 |
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The programming card is cool, but none of their stuff is sensored. (P.S. Novak did that like 10 years ago with the Pit Wizard) Hobbywing is pretty much considered an off-brand. I see Speed Passion stuff once in a while, and their gear looks good. I'm pretty much on the Tekin bandwagon though.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 22:28 |
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kuffs posted:The programming card is cool, but none of their stuff is sensored.
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# ? Feb 18, 2012 23:34 |
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Oh, I didn't realize that the MMP was sensored. I also forgot that they were the first to do electronic timing advance.
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# ? Feb 19, 2012 00:18 |
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So the bug has bitten once again. Helped along by the finding of this thread and the recent move where I uncovered my foam planes, helicopter, Mugen buggy, and TC3. The planes don't fly anymore (damaged during move). The helicopter is great, but I can't fly in even light wind because I'm so rusty at it now. The TC3 is great fun in the cul-de-sac, but I have such a great backyard for offroad. The Mugen is 1:8 nitro and at some point it hit a curb at full speed when the radio failed and yours truly didn't have the failsafe spring hooked up. Honestly I doubt I'll find MBX4R parts and if I do, finding the myriad of ones I need. Electric is really the way to go for backyard use in my neighborhood anyway. So the search has begun for an offroad kit for the backyard. I am on the fence about the scale size. 1/10 or 1/8. Price was a concern until I saw this: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/80904/ http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9061/ I already have radio gear, and I moved to LiPo a while ago and picked up a Hyperion EOS606i. I'll need to buy a brushless motor, ESC, and some decent LiPo pack. I know very little about these things as they pertain to cars. Foamies require no power and the Heli was RTR. How can I go about determining motor/ESC/battery requirements for those kits? No need to race, just general hooliganism. Are these kits any good? Anything else to look for? The other angle was E-MAXX or E-REVO, but I much prefer kits since I like to tinker and Traxxas is RTR only... Help me relive my childhood before I have kids.
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# ? Feb 19, 2012 16:31 |
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Aflicted posted:So the bug has bitten once again. Helped along by the finding of this thread and the recent move where I uncovered my foam planes, helicopter, Mugen buggy, and TC3. The planes don't fly anymore (damaged during move). The helicopter is great, but I can't fly in even light wind because I'm so rusty at it now. The TC3 is great fun in the cul-de-sac, but I have such a great backyard for offroad. The Mugen is 1:8 nitro and at some point it hit a curb at full speed when the radio failed and yours truly didn't have the failsafe spring hooked up. Honestly I doubt I'll find MBX4R parts and if I do, finding the myriad of ones I need. Electric is really the way to go for backyard use in my neighborhood anyway. If it's just for your backyard then get the 1/8th scale unless you have a groomed track or something like that. Easier to work on too since parts are bigger.
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# ? Feb 19, 2012 19:55 |
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wav3form posted:If it's just for your backyard then get the 1/8th scale unless you have a groomed track or something like that. Easier to work on too since parts are bigger. Do you say this because the 1/10 may have issues navigating terrain if not on a groomed surface? The only offroad experience I have is with the Mugen, which couldn't give two shits where it was told to go, and an E-MAXX my old roommate had. The E-MAXX did not balk at anything either which is why I considered something like that. I would prefer a kit. I don't know anything about Axial or Xray products but it seems they may be able to fill that niche too. They are also pricey as gently caress it seems so the quality would have to command the price to draw my interest. Also, most of the forums I have found and perused are worse than going to vwvortex or S2KI.com. The local hobby shops have dried up here so we have the one or two Hobbytown USA places that carry very little and are staffed with less than helpful people. Online is my best bet.
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# ? Feb 19, 2012 21:44 |
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Wall-O-PicsŪ Incoming So I wound up not going to the crawling competition, and instead took my SCX10 (with new Cherokee body I did over the weekend) on a trail ride at a local park. It was a loving blast. I couldn't believe how steep of hills this truck could climb. Water, rock spillways, 60-70 degree hills, logs, roots, whatever! I was on the trails for about 60 minutes and I got tired before the truck did (I can go about 2 hours on my lipo).
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# ? Feb 20, 2012 00:49 |
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Welp snapped the rear drive belt on my Sprint 2 Flux, can't bodge it to run now, finally have to go down to the hobby shop for replacement parts. List so far: one drive shaft, 2 screw and 2 nuts, rear drive belt. Also I gotta figure a way to secure my speed controller to the body since the double sided tape they used came undone.
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# ? Feb 20, 2012 02:02 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 04:35 |
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so continuing down my path of joining the local club, who here knows much about Minis? they seem the cheapest to buy into for racing and from what Ive seen at the track definitely the most crazy. whats the better of the 3 tamiya mini chassis?
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# ? Feb 20, 2012 02:12 |