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Stoptech does make good lines though. A coated line also lasts a lot longer. I had a friend blow out a non-coated goodridge line, luckily it was going 2mph backing out of the shop, so he noticed right away and we changed it right there. I should probably take a close look at my lines fairly soon, they're a couple years old and not coated. Also, techna-fit makes good stuff in-house in torrace, and their lines tend to be less expensive than stoptech and goodridge.
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Feb 10, 2012 06:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:DOT legal stainless steel brake lines cannot be visually inspected as easily as plain old rubber/plastic brake lines. Therefore, you'll want to replace them outright every couple of years, which no one does. For the low price I can live with that. Are they good otherwise? Safe and worth the money? I assume DOT approved means good enough. I don't track (yet) but do auto cross in hot dry weather. (11 STi btw) Edit: Jamal, I think the ones I got are coated. I also think StopTech only makes one kit for the STi and RallySportDirect told me they were coated and what not. If a DOT approved aftermarket line fails causing a car accident, will insurance gently caress me? THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Feb 10, 2012 |
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Feb 10, 2012 06:03
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What are the good places online for replacement OEM parts? Subarugenuineparts wants $12 to ship an air filter, and Rockauto doesn't seem to have OEM parts.
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Feb 10, 2012 23:16
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front wing flexing posted:I'll just go ahead and post the build link which has way more info and pics. You're probably not going to find free shipping from a discount online dealer, so just make your order is worthwhile to make the savings worth it. Otherwise just buy one locally if it's cheaper than SubaruGenuine + $12.
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Feb 10, 2012 23:23
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Why would anyone want to buy an OEM air filter?
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Feb 11, 2012 04:04
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I had a straight cut 4.50 final drive gear in my Focus rally car, which I ended up daily driving for 5 months. It was so loud on the highway that I had to put the headphones on to keep from going deaf. Though, I'm sure half of that was having no interior.
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Feb 11, 2012 05:09
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Lord Gaga posted:Why would anyone want to buy an OEM air filter? yeah, go to pep-boys, get purolator filter. or, if you want to spend $50 on a cosworth or whatever, let me know.
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Feb 11, 2012 05:33
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jamal posted:yeah, go to pep-boys, get purolator filter. Please tell me there isn't a $50 cosworth air filter. If there is please tell me no one has bought one. edit: Goddammit http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=52&idproduct=379 It looks like the OEM one but blue. Woooo.
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Feb 11, 2012 05:38
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Is the K&N filter a good stock replacement? Looks like you can wash and reuse it. Some people say you need a tune on a GR, others don't.
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Feb 11, 2012 05:40
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blargle posted:Is the K&N filter a good stock replacement? Looks like you can wash and reuse it. Some people say you need a tune on a GR, others don't. I like it in my 02. I got noticible gains versus a very dirty FRAM 
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Feb 11, 2012 05:53
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I can't deduce what "N/A" stands for in Subaru motors and it's bothering me. Anyone?
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Feb 11, 2012 06:10
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Mark Kidd posted:I can't deduce what "N/A" stands for in Subaru motors and it's bothering me. Anyone? Naturally aspirated. It means non turbo, its not a Subaru specific term.
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Feb 11, 2012 06:14
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I stick with dry paper or cotton filters over oiled or foam. AEM makes a dryflow drop in that you can clean and re-use. What's funny is that I'd suggest that over a K&N and they are the same company, just slightly different filters. also one of my distributors has the aem filter in stock, they're around $40. nm posted:It looks like the OEM one but blue. Woooo. Stoptech makes cosworth brakes arrow makes cosworth cranks carillo, pankl, and one other place (starts with an S, can't remember) make cosworth rods ACL makes cosworth bearings shhhhh don't tell anyone. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Feb 11, 2012 |
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Feb 11, 2012 06:37
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Lord Gaga posted:Naturally aspirated. It means non turbo, its not a Subaru specific term. Figures, that's how I went wrong trying to get a definition. Thanks!
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Feb 11, 2012 06:38
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blargle posted:Is the K&N filter a good stock replacement? Looks like you can wash and reuse it. Some people say you need a tune on a GR, others don't. Basically testing has shown that the K&N flows better but lets in more dirt. I think a lot more.
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Feb 11, 2012 06:46
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nm posted:Basically testing has shown that the K&N flows better but lets in more dirt. I think a lot more.
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Feb 11, 2012 06:54
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nm posted:Basically testing has shown that the K&N flows better but lets in more dirt. I think a lot more. I' m staring at that and wondering how the hell that's possible because K&N's do have a very good gravel rally reputation. Altho I tend to use OEM, never seen an issue with a K&N no matter how bad conditions got.
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Feb 11, 2012 11:37
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I ended up with the Purolator for like $12 on Amazon, since local dealers want $33 for the OEM filter.
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Feb 11, 2012 16:26
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Can someone verify the bleed sequence on a GR STis brakes? PF-dr-df-pr is what I think, but I don't have a field service manual. Also, do you bleed out the inner front or outer front first, or both at the same time? I'll be using the motive power bleeder with the two catch bottles. I know that's a sucker thing to buy but I have no one to help and my gf has a 2010 obs so it should work on her car too.
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Feb 11, 2012 17:50
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Cat Terrist posted:I' m staring at that and wondering how the hell that's possible because K&N's do have a very good gravel rally reputation. Altho I tend to use OEM, never seen an issue with a K&N no matter how bad conditions got. Here is a test
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Feb 11, 2012 18:23
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Can someone verify the bleed sequence on a GR STis brakes? IIRC standard bleeding procedures call for you to bleed the brakes furthest from the reservoir first. So probably passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. But I don't really think it'd cause catastrophic failure to do it in some other sequence.
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Feb 11, 2012 18:24
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Thats what I thought and have always done on other cars. Searching Google/nasioc it seems there is some method specific to the STi.
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Feb 11, 2012 18:51
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I feel like an rear end posting this among the WRX/STI chat, but anybody have tips for replacing the headlight bulbs on a 2004 Impreza TS? Both low beams went within a couple days of each other. I've got the battery out so I can get at it, but the drat bulb cover won't turn. Am I stuck driving in the daylight until I get it to the shop?
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Feb 11, 2012 20:19
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Nevermind.
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 19:25
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Maybe the wire's supposed to be on the other side of the hose? e: Originally I quoted your whole post 
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Feb 12, 2012 |
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Feb 12, 2012 19:42
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Yea i just unbolted the ABS pickup and dropped it on the other side. Awesome! 
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Feb 12, 2012 20:05
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Just to double-check since I'm seeing weird contradictory information... the stock oil pressure galley plug and threads is 1/8" BSPT, right? If so, I can't seem to find a tee for it on Summit.
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Feb 13, 2012 17:26
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It's tax return Car parts shopping list time: I have an 02 WRX Wagon mostly Stage 2, intake pending. So far sitting in the garage I have the following parts:
I am ordering a set of KYB-GR2's since my stock shocks are at 120k+ Are one or two of the following worth tossing on for $20-40? Options:
I'm also trying to find a stock SEDAN rear sway bar, or maybe a stock type 7 STi sway, or is that too stiff?
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Feb 14, 2012 18:13
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If you dont mind spending the $$ replace both the front and rear sway bars with 24mm adjustable on different settings.
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Feb 14, 2012 18:33
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A 20mm rear bar will make a nice improvement. I like the kartboy subframe bolts over whiteline because they are slightly easier to install. How set are you on the gr2s? I would save that money and put it towards konis or something.
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Feb 14, 2012 19:20
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Lord Gaga posted:If you dont mind spending the $$ replace both the front and rear sway bars with 24mm adjustable on different settings. jamal posted:A 20mm rear bar will make a nice improvement. I like the kartboy subframe bolts over whiteline because they are slightly easier to install. How set are you on the gr2s? I would save that money and put it towards konis or something. My budget for this round is about $500, I can get the GR2's for about $450, the AGX's are about $600, and how much for the konis? It looks like thepartsbin has them for $480 for four. This is a Daily Driver, so performance isn't HUGE, but better is always appreciated, until it becomes uncomfortable.
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Feb 14, 2012 20:24
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I assume he is referring to inserts which are around $700 for all 4. EDIT: Hmm that The PartsBin seems like a good deal, are those the same adjustable ones?
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Feb 14, 2012 20:30
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Lord Gaga posted:I assume he is referring to inserts which are around $700 for all 4. Don't know, and will those fit in the rears too, since wagons are Special?
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Feb 14, 2012 20:43
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toplitzin posted:My budget for this round is about $500, I can get the GR2's for about $450, the AGX's are about $600, and how much for the konis? yeah, they're about $700 a set. You may want to contact them I'm fairly certain that's the pricing for one individual insert. Front 8610-1350 rear 8610-1408 wagon/sedan doesn't matter because you're only replacing the damper and keep the stock strut housing. 02-03 and 04-07 are different in the rear though. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Feb 14, 2012 |
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Feb 14, 2012 20:43
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jamal posted:yeah, they're about $700 a set. According to the description that price is for a set of 2. Edit: Nevermind reseller ratings has them at 1/5, nobody seems to get the right parts, etc. etc. I'll ask josh over at importimage race if he can get them. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Feb 14, 2012 |
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Feb 14, 2012 20:51
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Tire replacement question. I'm needing to replace the tires on my '04 Forester XT with the stock 16" wheels. I live in Florida so snow handling is not a concern. I don't do autocross or anything other than daily driving with it. From my stupid research via Tire Rack and other sources, I pretty much find that the following conditions exist: - Cheap - Quiet - Last a decent amount of time Now pick two. Anyway, what is the popular tire these days that is a fair balance of the three? I'd like to stay under $600 out the door if humanly possible.
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Feb 14, 2012 21:11
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DAT RAM posted:Tire replacement question. I've got a set of Yokohama YK520's and they are nice and progressive about how they lose grip, rated for 60k miles and under $600 installed.
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Feb 14, 2012 21:22
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toplitzin posted:According to the description that price is for a set of 2. In stock at my distributor btw.
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Feb 14, 2012 21:47
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toplitzin posted:I've got a set of Yokohama YK520's and they are nice and progressive about how they lose grip, rated for 60k miles and under $600 installed. I found these: http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/detail/yk580 Discount Tire has them for $121 each which seems reasonable. I found somewhere on a message board that this tire replaced the YK520 but can't confirm that beyond a message board posting. the 580 is supposed to last longer from what I found.
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Feb 14, 2012 21:54
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My '98 Legacy is slowly dripping large puddles of coolant all over my driveway. Can anybody help me diagnose this? It's dripping near the thermostat housing, but not from it. Jamal, I'd love to hear your input.  Video: http://youtu.be/KY_zo2IBbmY Sorry about the vertical orientation, I edited the video in YouTube but it's taking its sweet time updating.
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Feb 15, 2012 00:37
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