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The Bandit posted:Anyone know of forums or sites that are good for finding semi-local people to buy and sell vintage electronics and stereo stuff? I am looking to sell my Cerwin-Vega 380SE and craigslist doesn't really have the type of people who are looking to shell out a bunch of money on speakers. You might want to call Audio Lab in Harvard or AudioProz in Watertown if you're looking to get rid of them pronto.
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Feb 4, 2012 08:04
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The Audiokarma forum Barter Town is for that, but it takes $25 to access it. You can look at listing previews, though. http://audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=177
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Feb 4, 2012 11:57
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Sledgehammer posted:I have a question about resistance. I have a pair of Pioneer SP-BS41-LR bookshelf speakers with nominal impedance of 6 ohms and maximum input power of 130W. I was thinking about driving these with an Outlaw RR2150 receiver which delivers 100 watts per channel into 8 ohms. Would this combo be at risk of over-driving the speakers or blowing them out or would it be budget audio nirvana? You've got it slightly backwards - you want the amp to be able to deliver more wattage than the speakers are rated for, otherwise you risk clipping when you crank the volume. Clipping blows speakers, not overpowered amps. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but my understanding is that whether or not the amp can drive your speakers loudly enough for you depends on three things: 1. How loud do you like it? 2. What is the actual maximum output wattage of the amp? (And you can't trust marketing numbers.) 3. What is the sensitivity rating of the speakers? Your amp will be designed to function optimally on certain impedance levels, that's why it's rated at 8 ohms, and few manufacturers will give numbers for other impedances. It depends on whether the amp can deliver a high current or a high voltage, and other complicated electrical stuff I don't really know about. =)
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Feb 4, 2012 14:20
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I HIGHLY recommend the AWOLNATION Megalithic Symphony vinyl. It's 180 gram and sounds incredible. I've been enjoying the FLAC version for a couple weeks and the vinyl is still much better.
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Feb 8, 2012 00:37
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Is it bad to leave a record spinning after its finished playing? I looking to get a new turntable that might not have auto return and sometimes I fall asleep, or I'm reading, basically Im lazy as hell. Is it bad for the needle to keep spinning on that last loop?
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Feb 11, 2012 22:01
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That would probably be a yes. Some of my albums have some rough grooves at the end. I have one where the stylus scoots across the label. Even if they were pristine, you still get wear and tear to your stylus.
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Feb 11, 2012 22:08
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Yes and no. It is indeed not good to leave your stylus running in the runout groove, but it's much less wear to sit there than to play actual music. It's a nice smooth trip over there.  This, though, is why I have a fully auto table.
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Feb 11, 2012 23:58
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aricoarena posted:Is it bad to leave a record spinning after its finished playing? I looking to get a new turntable that might not have auto return and sometimes I fall asleep, or I'm reading, basically Im lazy as hell. Is it bad for the needle to keep spinning on that last loop? Yeah, but it happens. My SLD202 has auto return but only works half the time.
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Feb 13, 2012 17:46
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Ok so I have everything set up finally! One problem -- I have a hiss: - in only one channel - on the phono setting only - louder when no input connected - volume dependent Is it fair to say I have something hosed up in the phono preamp circuit? *fake edit* Also should I try to fix the phono stage or to buy a separate preamp? primitive fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Feb 13, 2012 |
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Feb 13, 2012 21:23
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What speakers would you guys suggest for an entry-level setup now that the insignias the op recommends have been discontinued. Also how safe is getting a receiver off of Ebay?
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Feb 13, 2012 23:05
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$199 Floorstanding http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117403 or $69 Bookshelves http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117405
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Feb 13, 2012 23:11
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:What speakers would you guys suggest for an entry-level setup now that the insignias the op recommends have been discontinued. Also how safe is getting a receiver off of Ebay? You might also consider these Polks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290202 . Cherry version costs slightly less: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290203 As far as a receiver from ebay goes, I've bought a few and all came as described. I think your bigger worry on ebay is whether or not the seller packages the thing correctly so that FedEx/USPS/UPS doesn't destroy it. The problem is so bad Audiokarma has an entire subforum devoted to how to pack things: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=87
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Feb 13, 2012 23:23
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BattleHork posted:You might also consider these Polks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290202 . Cherry version costs slightly less: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290203 I just ordered the cherry version. Haven't got them yet so can't give a review. The newegg special only goes through 2/14 (tomorrow) so if anyone is interested they need to move asap
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Feb 14, 2012 00:56
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So if I got those Polk Speakers which are rated at 20-120 watts at 8 Ohms, would I have to be careful when using a vintage receiver rated at 35 watts or thereabouts? Specifically with causing clipping or something similar.
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Feb 14, 2012 01:51
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:So if I got those Polk Speakers which are rated at 20-120 watts at 8 Ohms, would I have to be careful when using a vintage receiver rated at 35 watts or thereabouts? Specifically with causing clipping or something similar. Unless you plan on playing at ear-bleeding levels, that ought to do. The Polks have a relatively high sensitivity rating too.
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Feb 14, 2012 02:12
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:What speakers would you guys suggest for an entry-level setup now that the insignias the op recommends have been discontinued. Also how safe is getting a receiver off of Ebay? Do you want vintage speakers?
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Feb 14, 2012 02:24
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Retarded Pimp posted:Do you want vintage speakers? I hadn't even looked into getting vintage speakers, I assumed they would be more expensive than modern ones. I mostly want to get a decent setup to listen to vinyl records with and that I love how vintage receivers look.
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Feb 14, 2012 03:01
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Is it dumb of me to want to buy a bang and olufsen record player?
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Feb 14, 2012 04:43
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:I hadn't even looked into getting vintage speakers, I assumed they would be more expensive than modern ones. I mostly want to get a decent setup to listen to vinyl records with and that I love how vintage receivers look. It depends, I picked up a set of recapped and resealed KLH 17's for $70, there's a set of Ohm E2's for about $50 and a set of Utah's for ~70 on CL right now. They're out there, you just have to look and be patient. Thrift stores can be awesome too. It's funny, the more popular low to mid-fi names, like Technics or Pioneer tend to have the higher prices, but the higher end stuff can often be had for a relative song because a lot of people don't know the name.
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Feb 14, 2012 04:44
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I just picked up a pair of infinity RS-5000a for $70 from Craigslist. Only thing I have to do is finish re-foaming the mids. There are good deals on vintage speakers, you just have to be dedicated to the search.
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Feb 14, 2012 06:03
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Retarded Pimp posted:It depends, I picked up a set of recapped and resealed KLH 17's for $70, there's a set of Ohm E2's for about $50 and a set of Utah's for ~70 on CL right now. They're out there, you just have to look and be patient. I've been trolling local thrift stores for interesting furniture and clothes finds twice a month for a while already, so I'll just start keeping an eye out for electronics. Hadn't really considered craigslist because based off my appliance/bicycle buying experience its 98% college kids selling off their junk as they graduate/need beer money. Anywhere else obvious that I am missing?
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Feb 14, 2012 06:40
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:I've been trolling local thrift stores for interesting furniture and clothes finds twice a month for a while already, so I'll just start keeping an eye out for electronics. Hadn't really considered craigslist because based off my appliance/bicycle buying experience its 98% college kids selling off their junk as they graduate/need beer money. Anywhere else obvious that I am missing? College kids sell off their turntables and speakers all the time. Don't write them off.
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Feb 14, 2012 09:36
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Oshata Hyotesti posted:Is it dumb of me to want to buy a bang and olufsen record player?
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Feb 16, 2012 02:01
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I picked up a Kenwood KR-4600 cheap on Craigslist for my burgeoning setup. Dude said it had some input selector issues. Got home, hooked it up, FM works but is very very faint, AUX works fine with a pre-amp. No sound on phono 1 or 2. So, I figure the pre-amp needs some work. I got a great deal so I'm willing to take it to the shop and have some work done on it. I could just listen to records on AUX but I would like the FM to work, and would probably like to use the pre-amp on the system if it were working since I'm sure it sounds better than my Amazon special. I read on the 'net that the Adapter area on the back of the unit is where the pre-amp connects to amp. The jumpers are still there. If I connect my pre-amp to it, would that kind of narrow down the problem to the onboard pre-amp? Dark shot of it, I don't intend to use it in this config, I'm working on getting a small media cabinet set up. 
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Feb 16, 2012 15:16
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First things first, this is an old unit, the switch contacts may be oxidized. That may be all that's wrong. Read this thread and clean the switches and pots like it says. http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005 Capacitor values can change over decades, transistors can mess up, especially relay transistors that stay saturated all the time. Check the DC Offset. DC current can kill your speakers. Read this thread and check for the offset. http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634
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Feb 17, 2012 01:22
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I second cleaning it first (with deoxit spray). Fixes a ton of problems.
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Feb 17, 2012 01:25
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Thanks guys, will check that stuff this weekend.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:54
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Found the culprit: It looks like maybe the back part of the switch was having a hard time turning, so they gave up and took it out of the loop. It was stuck on AUX  Now I need to figure out how to get in and deoxit that back switch for sure.
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Feb 18, 2012 19:28
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Holy poo poo, check out how old caps can look inside after 30 years. Not good at all. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=424499 I may be doing some recapping soon.
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Feb 18, 2012 22:44
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Retarded Pimp posted:Holy poo poo, check out how old caps can look inside after 30 years. Not good at all. Highly recommended! I recapped the crossovers of my 87' Klipsch Fortes and it was like lifting a blanket off the speakers. Details with pics here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=371297
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Feb 18, 2012 22:55
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Just received three copies of the brand new reissue of Pink Floyd's The Wall today. Open one up and find two copies of the second record (sides 3 and 4). Open up a second one, same thing. The third one was okay. Now I have 5 copies of the second record and one copy of the first. Talked to the company I bought them from. Apparently the manufacturer goofed and is going to be shipping out replacement LPs. I should be recieving them within the next two weeks or so. I bought two extra copies to give out to my vinyl loving friends. Good thing I opened them up to check them first. Just giving anyone who also purchased this album a heads up.
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Feb 24, 2012 23:07
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Retarded Pimp posted:That depends on the labor rates and if the tweeters are ok. Or you could refurbish them yourself, they're pretty simple devices. You can even be ham-fisted with a soldering iron and still do a decent job. holy gently caress. Did this tonight, took about 3 hours. night and day.
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Feb 25, 2012 04:27
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Those 17's and that Kenwood's 30 watts ought to be a good sounding match.
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Feb 25, 2012 05:33
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Retarded Pimp posted:Those 17's and that Kenwood's 30 watts ought to be a good sounding match. Dude, they sound magnificent. Thanks for the tips.
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Feb 25, 2012 21:22
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So I'm having a strange problem with zeroing / tracking with my SL-1200. I'm using an Ortofon OM 10 cartridge in a Sumiko headshell. The headshell comes with a little lever you're supposed to attach and use to place the arm on the record that must only weigh a gram, but whenever I have it attached I have to move the counterweight out from the little detent and I can't get the drat thing zeroed, it skates out unless I crank the anti-skate out to 3g. Will I do any damage by simply grabbing the tonearm to place the cartridge on the record? If not, why do those levers exist? **** ALSO SOUND PROBLEMS **** For some reason things are sounding a bit bright and tinny, is that a cartridge alignment issue?
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Feb 26, 2012 11:38
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I'm wondering if I've done enough damage to my stylus where it would need to be replaced. First off, I have a Dual 1246 automatic belt drive. Not sure how standard this is with other automatics, but there's a start/stop switch and an up/down switch for the tonearm. Flipping the start switch while the tonearm switch is in the "down" position will move the tonearm to the starting location for a 12" (or 7" if you have the 45 option on), and the arm will drop. Flipping the start switch while the tonearm switch is in the "up" position will move the arm over the starting location until you flip the tonearm switch to the "down" position. This is great for a 12" record, but it kind of sucks for a 10" record. Unfortunately I have thrown one of my 10" records on when I've had a few beers, and there have been about 3 or 4 times where I didn't notice the tonearm switch was in the "down" position. As a result, the arm drops, rubs against the rubber slipmat for a second or two, kind of rubs against the platter, and then falls off but doesn't land on the base. I can't really tell if my records sound noticeably different, but I was wondering if I should look into replacing the stylus since it might be damaged enough to warrant doing so. I don't know if a damaged stylus can also damage your records, so is that something I should be concerned about too?
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Mar 2, 2012 15:33
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I recently came across a vouple of interesting HiFi related sites, mostly vintage content, but interesting nonethe less to a HiFi enthusiast. The one that is most interesting belongs to a guy who was at the McIntosh when they started making speakers. There is an interesting section on his personal journey through HiFi. The website is here, http://www.roger-russell.com/ The other is basically an image duump blog, but there are many interesting articles form the golden age of HiFi there as well. http://itishifi.blogspot.com/
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Mar 4, 2012 02:44
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primitive posted:So I'm having a strange problem with zeroing / tracking with my SL-1200. That's messed up. You can balance the tonearm and set the antiskate if you don't have the little finger-lift attached? I mean, you can definitely use the table without it, but that little part would never effect things that much. Can you take a few pictures of the tonearm, lift/lever and headshell/cart? The weight of that little lift is so unnoticeable you shouldn't really have to rotate the counterweight more than a hair unless I'm thinking of the wrong thing. My experience with those orts is that they're "brighter" in that they sound very clean and loud, noticeably so more than other carts I've used. I like em, you get used to it, eventually switched back to grado's. Whodat Smith-Jones posted:I'm wondering if I've done enough damage to my stylus where it would need to be replaced. First off, I have a Dual 1246 automatic belt drive. Not sure how standard this is with other automatics, but there's a start/stop switch and an up/down switch for the tonearm. Flipping the start switch while the tonearm switch is in the "down" position will move the tonearm to the starting location for a 12" (or 7" if you have the 45 option on), and the arm will drop. Flipping the start switch while the tonearm switch is in the "up" position will move the arm over the starting location until you flip the tonearm switch to the "down" position. Yes damaged stylus can hurt your records, if you're a cheapo (like me) you can try sighting your needle and making sure its not obviously skewed in any direction but yeah its probably screwed up. That little tiny needle rides in grooves you can't even see and chances its blunted or not happy are high. In my reply I've just guilted myself into replacing my own stylus now because I know its actually a little abused...
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Mar 5, 2012 16:18
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What's a good budget cartridge to use with a Technics 1200 M3D w. stock headshell? I'm finally playing my vinyl again but I'm pretty sure I should replace my needle. I'm feeling cheap after shelling out a bundle for a new dustcover/hinges. Yeah I might have my priorities mixed up but whatever.
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Mar 6, 2012 04:38
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Snowy posted:What's a good budget cartridge to use with a Technics 1200 M3D w. stock headshell? If you don't mind going to the $60-$70 range the Shure M97xe is a pretty good one. I have one on my SL-1300 and it's the best I've ever heard. Granted, I haven't heard Grados or Ortofons, but you can't really beat it for the price
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Mar 6, 2012 09:36
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