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Maybe if you weren't blind and you could hold your crack addled hand steady for 5 seconds you could have some better tubes. e: Best or worst TotP? You decide.
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Feb 19, 2012 07:28
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crime fighting hog posted:I'm liking everything but the green tubes, I wish I could bring the detail out more (they're ribbed, lol) but even the lightest drybrush seems to get into the crevices. I think I would try a line of fairly heavy dark brown wash to help define the edges of the tubes against the fleshy parts. Sorta like blacklining it to pick them out really.
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Feb 19, 2012 13:09
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S.J. posted:Maybe if you weren't blind and you could hold your crack addled hand steady for 5 seconds you could have some better tubes. My hands are shaking because I just made sweet love to your mother? Shallow, I did a wash of mud around some of the metal areas, I'll try to sink it around the pipes.
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Feb 19, 2012 15:38
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crime fighting hog posted:My hands are shaking because I just made sweet love to your mother? If I can paint teeth on skeletons, then you can paint the raised parts of those cables. Don't dry brush, you don't have enough control. Just be careful and try to paint straight lines.
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Feb 19, 2012 17:49
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Here are some Plaguebearers. I have another command squad coming in the mail at some point which are getting a flesh tone color scheme.   
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Feb 19, 2012 18:32
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I'm finally getting back on the painting wagon with a new plan to reduce my backlog and slow the rate at which I buy new crap. Basically, if I want to add to my collection, I need to complete the point value of the new thing x2. So far, being disciplined over two weeks saw me finish these: (Sorry for the picture quality. My reliable little point and shoot was destroyed by the kids and I'm learning the macro function on my wife's Nikon) Pyre Troll  Blingy the Slag Troll  Totem Hunter  Dip is a wonderful thing.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:16
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 Michael's has a 50% off coupon this weekend only. http://weeklyad.michaels.com/ I got a sweet Ottlamp for $50. It's like a completely different world at my painting desk now. So if you've got any big item purchases I'd go get it now. I noticed they had air compressors over with the cake decorating stuff, I may go grab one to try out.
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Feb 19, 2012 21:54
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I'd like to make use of that 50% off, but looking at their website I don't see anything I'm in the market for. Clay shapers or a desk lamp maybe.
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Feb 19, 2012 23:42
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Manifest posted:
They have that coupon every week.
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Feb 20, 2012 00:03
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They have that coupon every week. Oh, well I feel silly. Still pretty stoked on my lamp.
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Feb 20, 2012 00:19
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Well, it's usually 40% off actually, so it's not totally fruitless.
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Feb 20, 2012 00:30
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I've been lurking this thread a while, and I hope this isn't a stupid question -- is there any kind of matte finish/coat that I can apply without the use of an airbrush? Someday I will make that investment, but it wouldn't make sense for me at the moment. My minis get pretty beat up sometimes, and they're not the nicest things, but I don't want them to get globby with repaintings.
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Feb 20, 2012 00:38
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Testor's dullcote comes in spray cans. Stay away from that dreadful, overpriced GW Purity Seal poo poo.
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Feb 20, 2012 01:28
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Roctavian posted:I've been lurking this thread a while, and I hope this isn't a stupid question -- is there any kind of matte finish/coat that I can apply without the use of an airbrush? Someday I will make that investment, but it wouldn't make sense for me at the moment. Buy a can of Testor's glosscote and Testor's Dullcote. Use the gloss first, then the dull and it should be pretty well sealed.
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Feb 20, 2012 01:32
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So if I wanted to (roughly) get a skin tone like the actor who played Sayid on Lost has ... how would you do that?
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Feb 20, 2012 01:35
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Ye Worse User-name posted:So if I wanted to (roughly) get a skin tone like the actor who played Sayid on Lost has ... how would you do that? http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=3680
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Feb 20, 2012 01:37
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crime fighting hog posted:http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=3680 Awesome. Now to see if I can actually do it.
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Feb 20, 2012 01:44
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Haha, I hear you there. Everytime I try something new, I find a guide and think "yeah we'll see about that"
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Feb 20, 2012 01:48
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Never as easy as it is in the instructions/tutorial! I have managed to put some advice from here and in other places into decent effect though so I can't be a complete lost cause.  Has anyone tried the Vallejo metal medium?
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Feb 20, 2012 03:35
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Ye Worse User-name posted:Has anyone tried the Vallejo metal medium? I do. It works really well for making silver, steel, or gunmetal colors, but I am still having trouble finding the right amount to use for things like brass, or copper. It works fairly well, but takes some tinkering to get the amount of metallic right for anything but basic metal colors. It is exactly what its name says too. It's paint medium with some metal flakes in so keep that in mind if you try it out. It lightens the color in the same fashion adding medium does.
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Feb 20, 2012 04:50
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Roctavian posted:I've been lurking this thread a while, and I hope this isn't a stupid question -- is there any kind of matte finish/coat that I can apply without the use of an airbrush? Someday I will make that investment, but it wouldn't make sense for me at the moment. If you use Future floor wax, which is an acrylic gloss clear and then throw any of the acrylic matte finishes over it it works wonderfully. Plus you can get a liter of the floor wax for about $5, it will shoot through an airbrush without being thinned, and it cleans up with windex. Good stuff.
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Feb 20, 2012 05:57
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Chugging along Amazing how fast you can get a unit near done once you figure out a scheme
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Feb 20, 2012 06:47
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Imp Boy posted:If you use Future floor wax, which is an acrylic gloss clear and then throw any of the acrylic matte finishes over it it works wonderfully. Plus you can get a liter of the floor wax for about $5, it will shoot through an airbrush without being thinned, and it cleans up with windex. Good stuff. On a related note, I have two bottles of this stuff in the US, but I haven't seen it in Canada in the last two years. What do Canadians do? crime fighting hog posted:Chugging along Agh, please change the arc marker. I like the scheme a lot (shade and highlight the tubes), but the front arc markers looks super tacky. I think whacky glowy green goop for the front arc is an awesome idea, but push some darks in there and define the blobs a little bit with some shading and highlighting, it'll look like fuckin ninja turtles goo. Which is awesome. Also, it could be that you have reddish gravel+neon green rim, which looks pretty bad in contrast like that. Draw some dark green into the cracks of the gravel or do something to mellow the clash. !amicable fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Feb 20, 2012 |
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Feb 20, 2012 06:54
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Apparently it is sold as Johnson's Clear in Canada. I found this site from a scale modeler that gives a good rundown of the regional variants of the stuff: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
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Feb 20, 2012 07:41
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x-post: painted some Legion heavies. Obviously, the bases aren't finished (it's too wet to use aerosol sealer in spring in Seattle, who'd guess), ignore that and the consequent weird feet that will be trampling brush in the final version. The spikes and bony plates need something to make them pop, but all of the highlight colors I've tried have looked like poo poo most of the time - their current highest high is a mix of the base grey and a light fleshtone, but I can't figure out where to go from there.
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Feb 20, 2012 08:37
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Thanks for all the replies, everyone! I'm going to try out that Testor's soon. Maybe not too soon, if it's apparently "too wet in Seattle to use aerosol sealer" right now (I am in Seattle)? When can I tell when it's appropriate? I heard that temperature can also be a problem with this stuff.
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Feb 20, 2012 08:56
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You're looking for below 40% humidity (lower is better), temperature range of about 45-90 for optimal performance. Outside of that zone, you take the risk of your sealant fogging up and making your models look terrible. The usual fix for that is to wait until the weather gets better and then respray them. 9 times out of 10, that'll fix it (the solvent in the spray dissolves the previous layer and lets it dry correctly).
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Feb 20, 2012 09:23
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stabbington posted:You're looking for below 40% humidity (lower is better), temperature range of about 45-90 for optimal performance. Outside of that zone, you take the risk of your sealant fogging up and making your models look terrible. The usual fix for that is to wait until the weather gets better and then respray them. 9 times out of 10, that'll fix it (the solvent in the spray dissolves the previous layer and lets it dry correctly). Brisbane rarely drops below 50% humidity, and provided its not raining, like that time, i havnt had any problems.
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Feb 20, 2012 11:49
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Hey fellow Brisgoon, I am currently constricting a warhammer tabletop on my balcony and managed to PVA a heap of sand to it which dried super quick in our killer sun 
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Feb 20, 2012 12:41
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dishwasherlove posted:Hey fellow Brisgoon, I am currently constricting a warhammer tabletop on my balcony and managed to PVA a heap of sand to it which dried super quick in our killer sun Meanwhile in the blasted wastelands of the frozen north, it's a balmy -12 c and I cannot spray outdoors.
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Feb 20, 2012 13:27
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My little men keeping getting random bits of their paint rubbed off from being moved around when I'm painting them. How do I go about giving them a varnish between layers? I don't want to make them all chunky, but I was reading it's what some people do when they're doing a super long paint job.
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Feb 20, 2012 14:14
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Some people mount their mini on a plinth to paint it on so you don't touch them with your greasy fingers. Examples are old empty GW paint pots or the like.
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Feb 20, 2012 14:23
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will blow your mind.
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dishwasherlove posted:Hey fellow Brisgoon, I am currently constricting a warhammer tabletop on my balcony and managed to PVA a heap of sand to it which dried super quick in our killer sun    Sup Brisgoon, what side? north or south?
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Feb 20, 2012 14:35
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Lethemonster posted:My little men keeping getting random bits of their paint rubbed off from being moved around when I'm painting them. How do I go about giving them a varnish between layers? I don't want to make them all chunky, but I was reading it's what some people do when they're doing a super long paint job. I mount the mini (usually on a base already but sometimes not) on a pill bottle lid with blutac, hot glue, or in some cases a little super glue. That way I can put the lid on the actual pill bottle for painting and have a convienient handle to hold, and when I'm not painting I can take the lid off so the mini isn't standing on a topheavy pillar and doesn't fall over. Hot glue peels off pretty easy usually at the end so that is another bonus.
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Feb 20, 2012 16:47
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!amicable posted:Agh, please change the arc marker. I like the scheme a lot (shade and highlight the tubes), but the front arc markers looks super tacky. I think whacky glowy green goop for the front arc is an awesome idea, but push some darks in there and define the blobs a little bit with some shading and highlighting, it'll look like fuckin ninja turtles goo. Which is awesome. No dice on the front arc markers, I like the way they are and I'd have to redo my whole army! But the bases aren't done yet, they've been soaked with scorched brown but I go over them with devlan mud and drybrush desert yellow then bleached bone before they get dead grass.
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Feb 20, 2012 16:53
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Some people mount their mini on a plinth to paint it on so you don't touch them with your greasy fingers. Old spray can lids are good for 60mm bases.
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Feb 20, 2012 17:00
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Cross posting finished empire great cannon   Everything needs a base.     
Buffalo squeeze fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Feb 20, 2012 |
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Feb 20, 2012 20:37
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^^^^^ That base is really cool.
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Feb 20, 2012 20:41
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SRM posted:I finished my Master of the Forge! This is so awesome, it hurts. My next troop models I'm gonna do are Flash gits from the same era. I've been collecting the "mek guns" from the different blister packs so I have proper fancy guns for their snazz guns.
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Feb 20, 2012 20:47
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Noob post incoming! bhsman here are those pictures you ordered This is my first real "effort" plasticman attempt (after a beginner Ultramarine and a few experiments). It's 99% done. Sorry about the quality of the pictures and the lighting, I had to borrow the camera and shoot them in a hurry, so it was a beggars can't be choosers sort of situation. Christ I'm making excuses and I haven't even gotten to the paintjob itself yet    I'm still going to go over the shoulder decal with some red to make a facsimile of the Bran Redmaw company logo. I realize it's still too glossy. A matte coat would fix that, right? 
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Feb 20, 2012 22:19
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