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Bovril Delight posted:The 2.0T engine has oil consumption issues, yes. Google "2.0T oil consumption" and you'll get about a billion hits. I think the EA113 is the 2.0T model with the major oil consumption issues. The EA888 is supposed to resolve most or all of them, and anecdotally, my Mk6 GTI hasn't started burning oil in 20k+ miles. Not sure which one the quoted car has, though. chutwig fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Feb 13, 2012 |
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Feb 10, 2012 21:49
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zoux posted:2006 Jetta 2.0T So I put the car in the shop for these issues today, and the diagnosis was: clockspring failure. It's not going to be terribly expensive to fix, which is good. My question is this: could the clockspring failure account for the other electrical issues? I just talked to the mechanic briefly to ok the repairs, but I'm worried that the clockspring could be a symptom of the other electrical issues and not the cause. I'm probably just worrying about nothing but I'd like to know if I need to insist that they check deeper when I go to pick it up tomorrow.
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Feb 13, 2012 20:15
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My 2005 MkIV GTI needs new struts and strut mounts, and I am curious about my options. I definitely don't want coilovers because while the car isn't quite my daily driver (I've been riding my CBR600 more often), I still take it for my 70+ mile round-trip commute and road trips regularly, and I don't want to be completely uncomfortable. I've driven autocross in this car for three seasons (almost starting our new season woo hoo!), and I'm aiming for a happy medium between moderate street use and the parking-lot-track. Are there specific brands/setups that people have had good experiences with? How deep into the rabbit hole should I go with sway bars, etc? Autocross video from last season.
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Feb 14, 2012 19:27
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Just get coilovers, it's not that uncomfortable.
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Feb 14, 2012 19:31
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Ghost Cactus posted:My 2005 MkIV GTI needs new struts and strut mounts, and I am curious about my options. I definitely don't want coilovers because while the car isn't quite my daily driver (I've been riding my CBR600 more often), I still take it for my 70+ mile round-trip commute and road trips regularly, and I don't want to be completely uncomfortable. If you "definitely don't want coilovers because the car isn't quite my daily driver" and you "don't want to be completely uncomfortable" then you definitely want to be careful with sway bars as they will tighten up the car and make it a lot more rigid than you may think. Look into the H&R Street series of coilovers, they're not that far off of stock ride wise (I would describe it as being a bit sharper) in terms of ride comfort but offer a nice progressive rate spring that will be aggressive when you want it to be.
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Feb 14, 2012 19:37
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timb posted:Just get coilovers, it's not that uncomfortable. allonblack posted:If you "definitely don't want coilovers because the car isn't quite my daily driver" and you "don't want to be completely uncomfortable" then you definitely want to be careful with sway bars as they will tighten up the car and make it a lot more rigid than you may think. Thanks for the responses. Looks like I'll stay away from sway bars. I should have mentioned that I'm not too keen on the regular adjustments that are necessary with coilovers either. I've heard that you have to tweak them every 6 months or so?
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Feb 14, 2012 19:49
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Ghost Cactus posted:Thanks for the responses. Looks like I'll stay away from sway bars. I should have mentioned that I'm not too keen on the regular adjustments that are necessary with coilovers either. I've heard that you have to tweak them every 6 months or so? I've had coilovers on many, many vehicles (and am just about to put them on my B8 S4) and the only time I've ever adjusted them is to get the ride height right, and to tighten them up at the track (in the case where I've had the ability to adjust dampening and rebound). There should be no reason to "tweak" them every 6 months and if you go with something like the H&R Streets, or the KW V1's you won't have any adjustment beyond height.
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Feb 14, 2012 19:55
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allonblack posted:I've had coilovers on many, many vehicles (and am just about to put them on my B8 S4) and the only time I've ever adjusted them is to get the ride height right, and to tighten them up at the track (in the case where I've had the ability to adjust dampening and rebound). There should be no reason to "tweak" them every 6 months and if you go with something like the H&R Streets, or the KW V1's you won't have any adjustment beyond height. I had no idea! I guess I've been getting my info from track guys who really enjoy messing with car bits...
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Feb 14, 2012 19:58
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I finally bit the bullet and got a new car- 2012 GTI 6spd manual, base. I've wanted one for about two years and the time was right- local dealer had exactly the car I wanted in stock! I'm absolutely LOVING it so far. Does anyone have any specific recommendations for rear seat covers (for the dog) or front/rear passenger partitions?
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Feb 17, 2012 03:32
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san_dingo posted:I finally bit the bullet and got a new car- 2012 GTI 6spd manual, base. I've wanted one for about two years and the time was right- local dealer had exactly the car I wanted in stock! I'm absolutely LOVING it so far. What a loving beauty. Congratulations. That's an awesome color too, almost reminds me of the Golf R.
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Feb 17, 2012 04:28
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Man that color is sweet. I really needed a new car when I was getting mine so I ended up with the carbon steel grey. That shadow blue was at the top of my list though. I wanted 2 door so the options were slimmer.
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Feb 17, 2012 09:33
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zoux posted:So I put the car in the shop for these issues today, and the diagnosis was: clockspring failure. It's not going to be terribly expensive to fix, which is good. My question is this: could the clockspring failure account for the other electrical issues? No. Look up what a clock spring is and you'll see that it is not an electrical failure but a mechanical one. Yes, electricity passes through it, but it's failure mode has nothing to do with an electrical problem. The electrical problem it causes is a symptom.
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Feb 17, 2012 15:14
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Whelp, my breather hose has cracks in it for sure. Guess it's time to finally order that pcv and valve gasket kit and get that all taken care of. And my spring break is coming up too, so I'm probably going to do the timing belt too, might as well do it all at once while I don't have to worry about getting to classes or anything. For a v6 b5.5 passat, anything else I should look at replacing while I'm taking the front end off besides the valve gaskets/cam seals, pcv hoses/valves, spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and the oil/oil filter? Just changed the air filter, cabin filter, and fuel filter already.
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Feb 18, 2012 00:33
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Anyone know much about the W8 Passats?
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Feb 18, 2012 05:16
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Bovril Delight posted:Anyone know much about the W8 Passats? The one thing I've heard about Passats besides the v6 version is that the 1.8T and the w8 versions are nightmares.
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Feb 18, 2012 21:36
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Bovril Delight posted:Anyone know much about the W8 Passats? Only that you should buy it as it is the ultimate VW. Forums poster nm seems to.
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Feb 18, 2012 22:32
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Throatwarbler posted:Only that you should buy it as it is the ultimate VW. Wow, someone has a hard on for nm. Quoted from the post: nm posted:In summary. It's a money pit. Yup, he couldn't contain himself. 
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Feb 19, 2012 00:47
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I'm thinking about buying a couple of toys for my mk6 GTI. Can anybody recommend a downpipe? I'm leaning towards APR but there seems to be a few less expensive options out there, and my main concern is quality.
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Feb 19, 2012 09:42
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What is the proportion of Mk5s and Mk6s with DSGs? My gut is that it's been maybe 60/40 in favor of the DSG? Would buying a DSG possibly affect post-warranty resale value down the road?
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Feb 20, 2012 01:22
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kimbo305 posted:Would buying a DSG possibly affect post-warranty resale value down the road? It depends on how the units perform over time... right now there's no data on how well 10 year old DSGs hold up. Then there's the maintenance variable that will affect value, as well.
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Feb 20, 2012 01:31
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meatpimp posted:It depends on how the units perform over time... right now there's no data on how well 10 year old DSGs hold up. Then there's the maintenance variable that will affect value, as well. Its been pretty close to ten years already. From what I've seen the 6 speed in the more powerful cars has held up pretty well (unlike the 7 speed in low end models)
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Feb 20, 2012 03:41
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kimbo305 posted:What is the proportion of Mk5s and Mk6s with DSGs? My gut is that it's been maybe 60/40 in favor of the DSG? Would buying a DSG possibly affect post-warranty resale value down the road? I was looking for a used GTI around 6-8 months ago. On craigslist, DSG equipped examples were typically 1-3k more expensive, were much less commonly listed, and were listed fewer times before listings stopped (presumably when they sold).
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Feb 20, 2012 06:00
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shyguy posted:I'm thinking about buying a couple of toys for my mk6 GTI. Can anybody recommend a downpipe? I'm leaning towards APR but there seems to be a few less expensive options out there, and my main concern is quality. Billy Boat sounds amazing, and can be had for $351 at Redline Motorworks. Mate it up to whatever catback you want, or get an adapter for the stock one. Going catless over catted will gain you about 5-8 hp on the butt dyno, as well as a wonderful RACECAR smell. I've mated it up to the 3" Magnaflow CBE.
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Feb 20, 2012 06:13
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Don't go catless. Everyone behind you at a stoplight or in traffic will want to murder you. It's not good for the environment. It's just a lovely thing to do in general. You don't actually lose HP if you get a DP with a high flow cat.
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Feb 20, 2012 06:32
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timb posted:Don't go catless. Everyone behind you at a stoplight or in traffic will want to murder you. It's not good for the environment. It's just a lovely thing to do in general. You're right about the environment, but if the car is otherwise running properly you won't be able to tell if it has a cat or not from sitting behind it.
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Feb 20, 2012 07:32
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Thanks for the input guys. I have a intake ready to install as well and I'm looking to do a Stage 2 APR upgrade come springtime, and a downpipe is suggested for it. Also, catch cans, is one worth buying for the mk6 2.0T?
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Feb 20, 2012 11:47
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dissss posted:You're right about the environment, but if the car is otherwise running properly you won't be able to tell if it has a cat or not from sitting behind it. Is that also the case if you're driving a diesel? I saw a dude stick a downpipe on a MKIV Golf and it shot out clouds of smoke like it was an 18 wheeler.
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Feb 20, 2012 19:12
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DerDestroyer posted:Is that also the case if you're driving a diesel? I saw a dude stick a downpipe on a MKIV Golf and it shot out clouds of smoke like it was an 18 wheeler. Yes, it is true of a diesel also. Stupid tuning/worn injectors is the only way what you are describing happens.
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Feb 20, 2012 20:28
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I'm in the market for an RS4...aside from the coking issues, is there anything I should be looking at when I check one out? Things I know to look/ask for: - was it decoked/valvetrain reseated, etc. - last time brake pads/rotors were done ($1300 job apparently) - Pushing the "s" button should open valves in the exhaust that can be seen with a flashlight, increase bolstering in the seats and change the sound of the valve, these things not happening could mean a vacuum leak... - Audi has apparently had to increase the warranty on the suspension to 75k because of problems. Any other red flags would be helpful. There's a bunch for sale in my area suddenly for very reasonable prices, I think either people are getting poor or the rich people are bored of their 4 year old cars...or they're broken. I'll likely have a mechanic go over it before I buy anyway, but I'd like to have a good idea of what I'm getting into before I get to that point.
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Feb 21, 2012 00:27
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Motronic posted:Yes, it is true of a diesel also. Stupid tuning/worn injectors is the only way what you are describing happens. Or the evry mod, though I guess that counts as stupid tuning. Leper Messiah fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 21, 2012 |
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Feb 21, 2012 01:09
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Leper Messiah posted:Or the evry mod, though I guess that counts as stupid tuning. Wow. Bunch of idiots. And that is why you don't do something just because "a lot of other people are doing it, it must be safe/good!".
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Feb 21, 2012 01:52
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You can just replace the downpipe and keep the rest of the exhaust stock right? I am thinking about going straight to stage 2 this time instead of stage 1 like my previous GTI. Or I might just add the intake and be Stage 1 again. Stage 1 even without any other mods is so much more fun than stock.
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Feb 21, 2012 01:52
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JHVH-1 posted:You can just replace the downpipe and keep the rest of the exhaust stock right? What precisely is "stage 1"? ECU reflash? Cat-back exhaust? Clutch and flywheel? New tires?
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Feb 21, 2012 01:55
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RaoulDuke12 posted:I'm in the market for an RS4...aside from the coking issues, is there anything I should be looking at when I check one out? If you're in the US, the seats don't do anything with the sport mode. Sport mode in the US increases the sensitivity of the throttle and opens the exhaust valves under a certain set of circumstances:  Audi has revised the DRC suspension, and the new type is supposedly more reliable. If the DRC is bad, the leaky shocks will often be obvious. It's a very fun car to drive, and is pretty practical for the performance you get. It's getting slower compared to newer cars, but it still has some get up and go.  quattroworld.com has a pretty good RS 4 forum, for what it's worth.
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Feb 21, 2012 02:07
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Sigma X posted:What precisely is "stage 1"? ECU reflash? Cat-back exhaust? Clutch and flywheel? New tires? Just the ECU flash, and you can add the intake if you want but its not required.
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Feb 21, 2012 02:10
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While we're on the subject of tuning what are the pros and cons of "chipping" your TDI?
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Feb 21, 2012 02:26
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DerDestroyer posted:While we're on the subject of tuning what are the pros and cons of "chipping" your TDI? I don't know what issues specific to the TDI engine you may encounter, might want to do some reading on some of the TDI or specific model forums. You are probably going against your warranty but a lot of service centers overlook that and if the problem isn't related directly to the tune it should still be covered. That being said, here are some numbers from REVO: http://www.revotechnik.com/index.php?mod=volkswagen Turbocharged Diesel 1.4TDi +33 bhp gain +37 lbft torque gain 1.9TDi +35-50 bhp gain +50 lbft torque gain 2.0TDi +45 bhp gain +53 lbft torque gain 3.0TDi +44 bhp gain +28 lbft torque gain
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Feb 21, 2012 03:03
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Leper Messiah posted:Or the evry mod, though I guess that counts as stupid tuning. That rises to a level beyond stupid. But yeah, we'll cover it there. That mod is what happens when someone with 1/2 an ounce of knowledge applies it to something they know little to nothing about and even less about the fundamental concepts it operates on. Yeah...I used to do the basically same thing turning up the injector pumps on R model Macks. But now I actually know what I'm doing.
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Feb 21, 2012 03:13
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DogDodger posted:If you're in the US, the seats don't do anything with the sport mode. Ah. I'm actually glad about that, it sounds like something that would break pretty quickly. DogDodger posted:Audi has revised the DRC suspension, and the new type is supposedly more reliable. If the DRC is bad, the leaky shocks will often be obvious. It's a very fun car to drive, and is pretty practical for the performance you get. It's getting slower compared to newer cars, but it still has some get up and go. What do you mean by has revised? As in, it was a recall or as in new models don't have the same problems? I'm looking at an '08. 400bhp out of a fairly comfortable sedan is more than enough get up and go for me. And thanks for the forum link, I didn't find that one somehow.
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Feb 21, 2012 03:21
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OK... I come to this thread way too often, but thanks again ahead of time to everyone. Awhile ago my oil change place said i need a new oil pan, (2002 Jetta V6) because the threads of the drain hole on the aluminum oil pan had wore and oil was leaking. They have already used an over sized plug and would pack some kind of putty like stuff around the plug to stop leaks. Well they basically told me to get a new oil pan because they were tired of constantly doing all that extra crap to get it to stop, because if it didn't work they had to drain the oil and try again,and so on. So I came here and asked and someone suggested a crush washer. I just called to set up another oil change and asked them about a crush washer, and they suggested a "butterfly drain plug". Opinions on crush washers versus butterfly plugs for stopping oil leaks.... I was going to go buy both myself and then give them to my guy and let figure out what is best. Or point me in the direction of a cheap new oil pan. This car has nearly 190,000 miles on it, and I have put alot of money in it over the last couple of years and would like to put as little as possible in it before it dies all together. Thanks. EDIT: Or an "expansion plug"??? FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 21, 2012 |
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Feb 21, 2012 20:20
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