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JHVH-1 posted:I don't know what issues specific to the TDI engine you may encounter, might want to do some reading on some of the TDI or specific model forums. You are probably going against your warranty but a lot of service centers overlook that and if the problem isn't related directly to the tune it should still be covered. I posted those numbers earlier in the thread but apparently it's all for the Euro models, so I think the HP/Torque gains on the 2.0 CR TDI in North America is a more modest +20 hp/torque or so.
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Feb 22, 2012 04:13
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RaoulDuke12 posted:Ah. I'm actually glad about that, it sounds like something that would break pretty quickly. The Euro seats are reportedly pretty uncomfortable for long trips. So even though the Euro seats look totally badass, I'm glad we got the S4 Recaros in the US RS 4. They're very nice to sit in. There was a DRC recall, but my car hasn't had the stock suspension since before this occurred, so I'm not sure of the exact changes. 
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Feb 22, 2012 04:24
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When I was clearing snow off my car this morning I noticed that my wiper blade is coming apart. Its a 2010 US Jetta Wagon, TDI if that matters. What sort of wiper blade do I need, and can I just wander into a regular auto parts store and pick one up? I only ask because it's one of those odd aerodynamic looking triangle blades, and I haven't had to buy wipers for this car yet. And while I'm at it, should I replace the other one as well? Picture of blades:  Also on an unrelated note, what's the purpose of these little plastic baffles on the foglights? 
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Feb 23, 2012 17:40
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Awhile ago my oil change place said i need a new oil pan, (2002 Jetta V6) because the threads of the drain hole on the aluminum oil pan had wore and oil was leaking. They have already used an over sized plug and would pack some kind of putty like stuff around the plug to stop leaks. Bring your car to a real mechanic and not an oil change place. This is not a difficult thing to repair, but what works best will entirely depend on what it looks like.
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Feb 23, 2012 17:45
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:OK... I come to this thread way too often, but thanks again ahead of time to everyone. This EXACTLY happened to me and I made the oil change place (in this case Sears) replace my oil pan on thier dime. It didn't hurt that I could prove that every oil change was done there but it sounds like they hosed it up and thier jury rigging fixing is not cutting it anymore.
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Feb 23, 2012 18:52
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Zenostein posted:When I was clearing snow off my car this morning I noticed that my wiper blade is coming apart. Its a 2010 US Jetta Wagon, TDI if that matters. What sort of wiper blade do I need, and can I just wander into a regular auto parts store and pick one up? I only ask because it's one of those odd aerodynamic looking triangle blades, and I haven't had to buy wipers for this car yet. And while I'm at it, should I replace the other one as well? Any decent auto parts store will carry blades for your car. The last time I bought wiper blades I got them from Amazon and saved a few bucks on tax and shipping.
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Feb 23, 2012 19:07
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Zenostein posted:When I was clearing snow off my car this morning I noticed that my wiper blade is coming apart. Its a 2010 US Jetta Wagon, TDI if that matters. What sort of wiper blade do I need, and can I just wander into a regular auto parts store and pick one up? I only ask because it's one of those odd aerodynamic looking triangle blades, and I haven't had to buy wipers for this car yet. And while I'm at it, should I replace the other one as well? That wiper blade is a Bosch Icon, they are like $20 a piece but they are the best wipers Ive found so far and its all I use.
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Feb 23, 2012 22:09
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Zenostein posted:When I was clearing snow off my car this morning I noticed that my wiper blade is coming apart. Its a 2010 US Jetta Wagon, TDI if that matters. What sort of wiper blade do I need, and can I just wander into a regular auto parts store and pick one up? I only ask because it's one of those odd aerodynamic looking triangle blades, and I haven't had to buy wipers for this car yet. And while I'm at it, should I replace the other one as well? Are you referring to the black plastic frame around it? It looks almost identical to the ones on my A4. On my car they shroud the passageway to the side mount intercoolers. Having never really looked at a 2010 Jetta TDI, I can't say if they are the same thing. If you squat down and shine a light through the opening you should see the intercooler face if that is what it is. You may have an FMIC instead of SMICs since your motor is transverse and there is more room up front. Also pay attention to the wiper connector for the wiper arm. It may be the funky new euro style adapter, which will require you to by blades with that specific adapter.
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Feb 23, 2012 23:21
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Aflicted posted:Are you referring to the black plastic frame around it? It looks almost identical to the ones on my A4. On my car they shroud the passageway to the side mount intercoolers. Having never really looked at a 2010 Jetta TDI, I can't say if they are the same thing. If you squat down and shine a light through the opening you should see the intercooler face if that is what it is. You may have an FMIC instead of SMICs since your motor is transverse and there is more room up front. No, I meant the little black thing inside the light's lens. And yes, I found out about the connector the hard way. 3 hours later (plus tomorrow, when the passenger one comes in from a city away) I'll have both new blades. Apparently Rain-X has been told that their BPT connector hasn't been used on Jettas and the like for a few years now. Still listed as compatible. I ended up with some Trico NeoForms, after hearing good things about them. Google maps had directed me to an alleyway between an Office Depot and a Tullys, next to a Dunn Tire, for Advance auto. So I had a stupid circular route. Back across town. I think, this place is weird about names.
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Feb 23, 2012 23:38
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So how bad of an idea is it for me to put air ride on my daily driver. At the bare minimum I'll have this car for another 5 1/2 years. I figure if I'm going to start loving with ride height I might as well go all in and just bag it.
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Feb 24, 2012 16:05
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I have had a small issue creep up on me recently. I can not seem to identify the problem and was wondering if any of you guys had an answer or some trouble shooting tips. I have a 04 GTI 1.8T with some mild modifications. I have a GIACX+ chip, 3 in turbo back exhaust with cat, CAI, upgraded diverter valve, and a "J" revision boost controller. At random my car will only hold 5-6 psi at full load and will do this for a couple minutes at a time and then change back to normal 20 psi like everything is fine. It seems like the car is going into limp mode but I though the car would stay in limp mode until cleared by the ECU. Any suggestions?
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Feb 24, 2012 20:59
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mrtrunks84 posted:I have had a small issue creep up on me recently. I can not seem to identify the problem and was wondering if any of you guys had an answer or some trouble shooting tips. Considering it reverts back after clearing the ECU I'd lean toward there being something wrong with the tune. Is there possibly an update to the tune? I ran APR stage1 with no other mods and never had any boost issues on my 1.8t.
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Feb 24, 2012 21:42
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veedubfreak posted:Considering it reverts back after clearing the ECU I'd lean toward there being something wrong with the tune. Is there possibly an update to the tune? I ran APR stage1 with no other mods and never had any boost issues on my 1.8t. Well that's the funny thing is that it clears up on its own, no clearing the ECU or anything. I would come to a full stop and take off again only to have full boost pressure. Like I said it feels like limp mode but I was sure a car will stay in limp mode until the ECU is manually cleared not just go away magically. The car is at 80K miles and I've had the tune on it since 30K so I wonder why the tune would go bad now? Could excess oil/water in the intercooler cause this problem?
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Feb 24, 2012 21:51
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Do you have a VAG-COM, cause I think the first thing people suggest is check with that for any errors/logs or whatever other useful info you can. If you don't have one maybe it would be a good investment. Somebody else had something similar with an APR time on a mk6, and it turned out to be spark plug fittings or something else that was an easy fix. (I don't remember exactly)
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Feb 24, 2012 23:12
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mrtrunks84 posted:Well that's the funny thing is that it clears up on its own, no clearing the ECU or anything. I would come to a full stop and take off again only to have full boost pressure. Like I said it feels like limp mode but I was sure a car will stay in limp mode until the ECU is manually cleared not just go away magically. The car is at 80K miles and I've had the tune on it since 30K so I wonder why the tune would go bad now? Could excess oil/water in the intercooler cause this problem? Well it is a 1.8t, coilpack going out possibly?
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Feb 24, 2012 23:35
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Well I don't have VAG-COM but I do have a scan tool. Of course the scan tool comes back with nothing which leads me to believe that if a coil pack was on the way out it would show a cylinder misfire. I have replaced all of the coil packs with ones that won't blow out(knock on wood). I guess I will have to invest in VAG-COM and run some logs to see whats happening.
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Feb 25, 2012 02:17
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veedubfreak posted:Well it is a 1.8t, coilpack going out possibly? Thats what the guy with a similar sounding issue had, coil pack problems. You can use VAG-COM to check cylinder misfires like this vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fyUyXgJMtY I gotta invest in one eventually. My buddy and I might split the price and then do coding for people on forums to get back what we paid on it.
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Feb 25, 2012 02:50
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I feel really stupid asking this, but google doesn't like the search term "4+E". I'm buying a MK2 Jetta 1.6 TX this week, and it comes with a 4+E gearbox, which I've never heard of before, and seems to be impossible to google. Can someone explain to me what on earth a 4+E gearbox is? I've only ever driven car with standard 5 or 6 speed boxes, so this is completely alien to me, and I'd like to know if it does anything weird before I go to test drive it and look like a dick.
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Feb 25, 2012 17:58
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Pretty sure the E is for economy meaning it's geared for low rpms at highway speeds. Contrast that with my old Jetta, where 5th was overly loud and buzzy at anything over 60 mph.
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Feb 25, 2012 18:03
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thecopsarehere posted:Pretty sure the E is for economy meaning it's geared for low rpms at highway speeds. Contrast that with my old Jetta, where 5th was overly loud and buzzy at anything over 60 mph. Thanks, I thought it was some kind of overdrive system, and was wondering why that'd be on a low-mid range VW of that age!
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Feb 25, 2012 18:05
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Anyone have experience with carbon buildup issues on FSI engines? My GTI is loving misfiring when idling and the CEL is on. The shop is claiming I got too much carbon buildup. I might put some seafoam in there but I'm hoping that they won't have to get in there and clean it by hand.
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Feb 26, 2012 18:51
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I thought the VW-Audi group resolved the carbon buildup issues on their newer models? Is this not the case?
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Feb 26, 2012 19:59
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Casual Yogurt posted:Anyone have experience with carbon buildup issues on FSI engines? My GTI is loving misfiring when idling and the CEL is on. The shop is claiming I got too much carbon buildup. I might put some seafoam in there but I'm hoping that they won't have to get in there and clean it by hand. Run it through the brake booster line to thoroughly piss off your neighborhood.
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Feb 26, 2012 23:22
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Casual Yogurt posted:Anyone have experience with carbon buildup issues on FSI engines? My GTI is loving misfiring when idling and the CEL is on. The shop is claiming I got too much carbon buildup. I might put some seafoam in there but I'm hoping that they won't have to get in there and clean it by hand. The carbon buildup on direct injection models needs the intake manifold removed and someone to go in with a brush to really do anything worthwhile. It is thick gunk that gets layered over super thick. Unless we are talking about washing maybe 50 gallons of solvent over the valves I dont see any fuel cleaner doing anything, even if its coming through the brake booster line.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:10
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So I've found a B5 Passat locally that's dirt cheap but it has a transmission problem. It's a 2.8 with the 5-speed. The owner says it needs a new clutch, but the car is actually immobile and cannot get into gear at all. My questions are this: 1. I've never done a clutch job before. How difficult will this be to do in my driveway? This would just be a small project car, not my DD, so it's not an issue of time or hurry. Just talent. 2. How bad a shape must the clutch be in to have no shifting whatsoever, and how much could I potentially have to replace as far as flywheel, friction plate, fork, etc.?
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Feb 27, 2012 12:32
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DerDestroyer posted:I thought the VW-Audi group resolved the carbon buildup issues on their newer models? Is this not the case? Early inspections on the B8 S4's V6 have revealed no evidence of buildup.
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Feb 27, 2012 16:23
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Motronic posted:Bring your car to a real mechanic and not an oil change place. This is not a difficult thing to repair, but what works best will entirely depend on what it looks like. LorneReams posted:This EXACTLY happened to me and I made the oil change place (in this case Sears) replace my oil pan on thier dime. It didn't hurt that I could prove that every oil change was done there but it sounds like they hosed it up and thier jury rigging fixing is not cutting it anymore. My oil change place (now) is a real mechanic. I have taken the car to oil change only places in the past though and the car is 10 years old so I'm not really surprised or pissed off or anything. I'm not sure why they make oil pans out of a soft metal like aluminum but again it doesn't matter... (Is it weight, or heat conduction or something? I'm sure there are cheaper metals out there to use.) Next problem... a couple of weeks ago I started hearing a knock in my front wheel when I would back out of the driveway. It didn't sound bad just odd. I made an appointment for an oil change for Saturday March 3rd. And I mentioned to the place to check my front wheel when they had it up in the air. Now... last Friday when I left work I pulled out from my parking spot and this sound got alot worse. It made a cartoon like low tone "Boing!" for lack of a better term. The steering was fine so I continued to drive home, and didn't drive all weekend. I took it in first thing in the morning. There is either a broken strut mount or a broken spring. They need to tear it apart to be sure. That will most likely be $225 per wheel and they said if they do one they need to do both front wheels. They changed the oil and the butterfly oil plug I bought isn't sealing so they put the old oil plug back in, already the 2nd sized oversized, back in packed with Permatex and it is holding for now but they still want me to get a new oil pan at $378 for a new pan. And my rear tires are showing "diagonal wear", so they want me to get two new rear tires. They said the wire is about to show through on one of them. So a simple oil change and a knock in my front wheel is now up to $1400. 190,000 miles and I put $3000 in it last year... I told myself I wasn't going to put anymore $$$ in this car... and now this... Advice? I always make terrible decisions in regards to my car. UPDATE: The coil spring is broke. They can use the "quick strut" for a total of $743, for both front wheels + oil change + alignment. Or look into replacing the coil spring only on that one side. He said parts price would go down, but labor would go up. He said the last coil spring he priced was $150, but that was for a domestic car, not a foreign car. I told him to look into a used coil spring... and then I will decide on which way to go. UPDATE 2: The coil springs only option brought the price down from $743 to $426, so I'm going that way. He is really stressing I need new tires. I'm 99% sure I'm just going to have to get them. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 17:42
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an oddly awful oud posted:So I've found a B5 Passat locally that's dirt cheap but it has a transmission problem. It's a 2.8 with the 5-speed. The owner says it needs a new clutch, but the car is actually immobile and cannot get into gear at all. My questions are this: When you say can't get into gear at all, how do you mean? Does the shift lever move freely but you can or can't feel the dog teeth grind? Clutch pedal goes to the floor without resistance?
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Feb 27, 2012 22:16
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chutwig posted:When you say can't get into gear at all, how do you mean? Does the shift lever move freely but you can or can't feel the dog teeth grind? Clutch pedal goes to the floor without resistance? I spoke further to the seller and I was mistaken. The issue isn't that it's stuck in neutral, it's that they blew the clutch and then turned the car off while it was still in gear. Now it's stuck in 1st and immobilized by the neutral safety switch. Sounds like a straightforward case of blown clutch to me, although not being able to see how the car runs is a major caveat for me. Any further thoughts?
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Feb 28, 2012 00:15
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None of that makes any sense. If the clutch is blown it should go into all the gears whether the engine is running or not. If the fork/master/slave was blown then the clutch could be stuck on and then it wouldn't move out of first if there is pressure on the drivetrain from being on a slight hill or whatever. Also it shouldn't matter what gear its in because the safety switch is on the clutch pedal though I could be wrong about that part, not 100% sure about the B5 manuals.
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Feb 28, 2012 00:30
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Bought my first Volkswagen (and my first ever NEW car) today! 2012 Volkswagen GTI - Auto with Sunroof   On another note, taking pictures of shiny new cars without getting yourself in the picture is really hard!
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Feb 28, 2012 21:43
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I'm still stuck on whether I want a GTI or a TDI. Because I'm thinking of a TDI Highline with navigation it comes out to like 38k with all the taxes and other dealer fees included. A GTI with the tech package and such costs about 42k and I don't know if ponying up for it is a good idea, especially with the potential insurance nightmare and added fuel costs.
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Feb 29, 2012 00:18
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Solvency posted:Bought my first Volkswagen (and my first ever NEW car) today! Also, my 2011 GTI was my first new car purchase as well. shyduck fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Feb 29, 2012 |
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Feb 29, 2012 00:57
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Here's a VW buy-it-or-leave-it question. 1985 VW Golf diesel with the 5 speed, 130K on the clock and comes with spare parts, asking $1,500. It sounds like it at least comes with replacement glow plugs and two new tires, which is good because it's apparently been sitting for a couple years. The guy recommended replacing the timing belt (doesn't recommend starting it without it), which is a given, and used to drive it prior to it getting parked. Somewhere between driving and parking it, he said it might have developed a problem with "a fuel cutoff solenoid" that should be a $60 part to replace. I've worked on plenty of gassers before, but am not terribly familiar with working on diesels, though I have a friend who says they're easy. I guess as long as he's willing to help for beer, I'm game. Question is, am I unwittingly staring into a block-heater laden, glow plug-lit hell of my own creation or should I just walk far, far away?
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Feb 29, 2012 06:01
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The old diesels are near indestructible. If you want something that will easily get 50mpg and be easy as hell to work on, buy it. The rest of the car will fall apart around that engine, 130k is barely broken in. Although, remember those things only had like 80hp if that.
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Feb 29, 2012 18:53
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52hp, it will slowly run forever.
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Feb 29, 2012 18:56
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Billy Tully posted:52hp, it will slowly run forever. 52hp from the factory  I wonder which is slower, an 80s diesel or a late 50s with the 36hp gasser.
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Feb 29, 2012 19:28
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Random question with my new GTI. The first day I got it, I was driving around and had an engine misfire. Car made a weird sound and shook, engine warning light blinked a few times and then stopped. I assume this is because I pushed it a bit too hard on the first day, but I'm wary of it happening again. Has anyone else had a similar issue during the break in period?
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Feb 29, 2012 19:49
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Billy Tully posted:52hp, it will slowly run forever. I still have an 84 rabbit that I learned how drive manual on....it has no tach and an arrow that lights up when it's time to shift. The arrow worked for two weeks before burning out. It was never fixed. I will be using it to teach my kids. It's currently at 350K.
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Feb 29, 2012 20:22
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Solvency posted:Random question with my new GTI. The first day I got it, I was driving around and had an engine misfire. Car made a weird sound and shook, engine warning light blinked a few times and then stopped. I assume this is because I pushed it a bit too hard on the first day, but I'm wary of it happening again. Has anyone else had a similar issue during the break in period? I have about 800 miles on my 2012 and had 12k or so on my 2010 model, and that never really happened. Might want to pop in the dealer and have them check the codes. There is the courtesy check, so if you want to just wait it out you could bring it up then. Some people do the opposite of what the manual says and make a habit to red line the engine once every time they drive it during break in, but I haven't heard of that happening. I am taking the granny driving method, though after about 500 miles I started being a bit more aggressive.
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Mar 1, 2012 01:12
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