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Changed the upper and lower radiator hoses on the ITR, also the fluid and the thermostat. It now comes up to temperature when it's cold out.
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Feb 20, 2012 23:54
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trouser chili posted:Changed the upper and lower radiator hoses on the ITR, also the fluid and the thermostat. It now comes up to temperature when it's cold out. Had that same problem. Integras run colder than poo poo no matter what. Mine takes forever to warm up even on tepid days. When the thermo was broken the temp needle would barely move at all. There was at least one very cold drive to Waco and back a couple of Christmases ago 
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Feb 21, 2012 04:47
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Had a lovely time replacing the overdue spark plugs and blown A/C blower motor on my V8 Touareg today. By the way, gently caress you VW/Porsche for every under-the-dash job on this platform.
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Feb 21, 2012 05:20
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Anybody in Boise who would like to help me with this job? I will pay in Cigs/Beer/Pizza anything. I'm poor and this is the first time I have felt like I am in way over my head. 
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Feb 21, 2012 06:36
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Finally got rid of the vibration problem in my 1977 international scout. Been chasing that goddamn thing for over a year. Turns out it was the front driveline all along. Removed it, vibration gone. Yay! However, it shouldn't have been a problem. That means either my transfer case is messed up somehow (it was in 2HI and the front driveshaft was spinning somehow?) or my front locking hubs are shot. Also my throttle cable is sticking 
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Feb 21, 2012 06:51
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I have an 04 350z. I had a bit of rattle on my rear passenger shock, which is a common problem. I installed new tokico d spec shocks and hotchkis springs but the rattle persisted. While checking the bolts for correct torque I snap a stud. Today I sanded the stub down, drilled through it and jb welded a new bolt in. For those of you that don't know the z has a gigantic rear crossbar which makes accessing the welded stud impossible from the top (where it's welded). Therefore I had to drill through the bolt and widen the hole to fit the slightly bigger new bolt in. The funny thing is that the jb welded bolt felt so much sturdier than the lovely stock studs. It's a common problem to have the studs snap before you torque it into spec
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Feb 21, 2012 07:21
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  oh god how did this get in here I am not good with carburetors
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Feb 21, 2012 20:06
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Painsaw posted:Finally got rid of the vibration problem in my 1977 international scout. Been chasing that goddamn thing for over a year. Turns out it was the front driveline all along. Removed it, vibration gone. Yay! You got lock-o-matics? They're notorious for locking up stupidly. As for the throttle cable, I don't recommend the OEM style units. Had too much trouble from them, I've hacked a LOKAR cable kit into it. If you've got a thermoquad or Holly 2210 two-barrel no hacking is necessary, but they won't fit the Holly 2300 correctly.
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Feb 22, 2012 01:51
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Car ate ANOTHER loving BELT.  Limped it about 1/2 mile to AutoZone with no alternator, water pump, or power steering (temp gauge got to a little above 1/2, but it threw the belt before it warmed up). Got another belt, this one was warrantied. Start installing the belt, discover the idler pulley is about to fall off. And it's a cheap idler pulley replacement - no grooves, no ridges, just smooth plastic, so when it wobbles the belt jumps around and gets caught on anything and everything.So pissed I didn't notice the loose idler before. To get any kind of wrench on the idler you have to pull one of the motor mounts and lift the engine a bit on that side, which requires pulling the alternator and its brackets. Start to finish in AutoZone's parking lot was about 45 minutes, though I had a floor jack and a block of wood in the trunk. Also, helped a friend change the timing chain guides on his the KA24E he bought off of Craigslist. Why the gently caress he bought a KA24E for a project car (2.4L with 130HP) is beyond me, particularly when the 240SX shell he has doesn't have an intact harness; but the chain had worn a nasty groove into the timing cover. At least it hadn't jumped, and the chain looks to be in good shape. I would hate to do that with the engine in the car. timb posted:If you get fired for it, all you have to do is call up the labor board. They'll take care of it REAL quick. A lot of these places don't give pay stubs anymore, or even paper checks. Direct deposit or you ain't getting paid - if you don't have a checking account, you get a prepaid debit card with some hilarious per-swipe fees. Want a pay stub? Ask the store manager to print one - some are dicks about it, though my boss didn't give 2 shits about people having them and gave me his password so I could print my own. Needed them for school financial aid, my 2011 income was less than 1/4 of my 2010 income and they wanted proof before adjusting my 2011-2012 aid.
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Feb 22, 2012 08:31
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I installed one of these with these  using these    and  on one of these  It was a pain the rear end. edit: oh yeah these too: 
GutBomb fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 22, 2012 |
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Feb 22, 2012 19:07
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Yesterday I put new trunk lifts on my 2002 Monte Carlo after they quickly got weak and died entirely. It was like $35 for the pair. I was worried about installation because I didn't see any visible bolts that I could remove, but when they arrived and I realized it was just a ball joint you pop off at both ends it was super easy and now I can put things in my trunk without it coming down on my head.
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Feb 22, 2012 21:13
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I cleaned all the poo poo off the hood release latches on my 850 so I can reliably get it open
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Feb 22, 2012 22:52
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I hired a mobile ase certified mechanic to finish the timing chain job. 150$. I feel ashamed as this is the first time I have ever hired someone to get me out of the poo poo.
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Feb 22, 2012 23:39
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ratbert90 posted:I hired a mobile ase certified mechanic to finish the timing chain job. 150$. I feel ashamed as this is the first time I have ever hired someone to get me out of the poo poo. Don't feel bad, I had to do the exact same thing last month. Started a timing belt change on my GTI, old belt slipped because something broke off from the guard and got caught in the gears before I had marked it. I had a really good idea of how to set the timing from scratch, but I was scared shitless because it's an interference engine and I didn't want to take the risk. Turns out a guy who worked at the local Advance Auto was also an ASE certified mechanic who happened to do a lot of personal work on VWs. Asked if he would come out and help me, he spent 5 hours showing me all sorts of cool tricks and helped me get the entire thing buttoned back up. Car started like a champ. He only asked for $50. I gave him $150 without blinking an eye. Nothing wrong with admitting you're in over your head and getting help. HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 23, 2012 |
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Feb 22, 2012 23:55
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I'm glad I did. The VQ was ran hard and never maintained well it looks like. We got the upper oil pan off (both seals were leaking,) and the timing chain cover off. Problems: Timing chain was real REAL loose. Main timing guide was chewed up. Cam chain A was loose  Plastic bits all over the inside of the timing chain cover Front main leaks Front upper oil pan leaks Front Valve Cover leaks Front Valve cover Spark plug seals leak. Thank god for a timing chain kit and a full gasket kit! Finally, a good running VQ30DE with no leaks!
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Feb 23, 2012 18:24
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First time I've been on the highway since getting new tires (1.5 to 2 weeks?). Car was difficult to control, kept trying to dart off in new and exciting directions. I've never had the alignment checked, but the tires seem to wear evenly and I've never had problems with it pulling before. It was like someone removed every bushing in the front end. Checked the tire pressures about an hour after I got home. LF was 45 PSI. RF was 52. Door sticker says 28, tire sidewalls says 35 max. I figure they're not completely cooled after 1 hour, but goddamn. I dropped them to about 30, though I won't be driving it again until Sunday.I've never had anyone overinflate tires that badly before. A lot of shops are guilty of inflating to the max sidewall pressure (usually 35), but 35 doesn't make a massive difference in handling vs the recommended 28. Detroit Q. Spider posted:Had that same problem. Integras run colder than poo poo no matter what. Mine takes forever to warm up even on tepid days. When the thermo was broken the temp needle would barely move at all. There was at least one very cold drive to Waco and back a couple of Christmases ago My LS warmed up really quick - if it was above freezing, I had heat within half a mile, assuming I started it and let it idle for 10-15 seconds before taking off. Temp gauge was up to normal within 5 minutes. Also, cardboard is your friend when you have a stuck thermostat, just cut up an old box and shove it in front of half (or 3/4) of the radiator and keep an eye on the gauge. My KA24DE Altima takes loving forever to warm up. At least a mile and a half before I get anything resembling heat from the heater, and 5+ miles before the needle gets to "normal". Before the new thermostat it would take about 20 minutes to get any heat whatsoever. ratbert90 posted:I'm glad I did. The VQ was ran hard and never maintained well it looks like. We got the upper oil pan off (both seals were leaking,) and the timing chain cover off. Nissan seems to consider timing chain guides to be a maintenance item. My KA24DE's chain rattles for a few seconds at startup, which tells me either one of the guides is gone or the tensioner is clogged with sludge. And being a FWD version of the KA24DE, pulling the timing cover is impossible without pulling the engine. Thankfully I hardly drive at all since moving - the car might get 5 miles put on it during the week, weekends see anywhere from 20 to 100 depending if I go down into Dallas or not.Just helped a friend change a tensioner on his KA24E - one was completely gone, and judging from the gouges in the block and timing cover, has been gone for a long time. Thankfully the engine wasn't in the car, so the only challenge was trying to find all the timing cover bolts buried under 2 inches of solidified oil. edit: vvvv this tire shop was the most shady I've ever dealt with, I should have walked when they started trying to switch poo poo around on me, but they didn't start that until they'd already removed my old tires from my wheels. also 35 was the max rated on my tires.... so 10-17 psi over the max. I get to fix a couple of crossthreaded lugs next week too. I've been to 24 hour tire shops in the heart of the ghetto that did better work, though at least this one didn't try to sell me rimz. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Feb 24, 2012 |
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Feb 24, 2012 05:05
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some texas redneck posted:First time I've been on the highway since getting new tires. Car was difficult to control, kept trying to dart off in new and exciting directions. I've never had the alignment checked, but the tires seem to wear evenly and I've never had problems with it pulling before. I had the exact same thing happen to me. Bouncing all over the highway on a road trip after getting an alignment so I checked the pressure when I stopped for gas. 45PSI all around, max was 32/30 front rear normally. 45PSI was the max rated pressure listed on the side of the tire, could a tire shop really be that dumb?
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Feb 24, 2012 05:09
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law abiding rapist posted:could a tire shop really be that dumb? Is Schwarzenegger hard to spell without help from the squiggly red line? The answer to both: usually, for most people, probably. Of course, then you have the opposite, where my Delta had 42psi on the door sticker, but shops refused to put above 30 in the tires rated for 55 on their sidewalls.
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Feb 24, 2012 05:51
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some texas redneck posted:
Even better yet was timing for the cams was in the middle of a compression stroke.  Good job Nissan! I love your engines and cars, but gently caress the timing chain on these things. When I pulled the cam tensioners I just laughed, they were ready to fall apart and had a groove about half a millimeter deep in both of them.
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Feb 24, 2012 06:09
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Ordered new door handles inside and out, a front fender, side mirror, valve cover gasket, trunk lid, and a front turn signal for my second car, a completely beat down and rough looking 1999 Toyota Corolla. I am going to revive it back from it's sorry state and get it nice and shiny, or at least not as embarrassing to drive! Going to start a project thread once I install the first round of parts/repairs! What it used to look like only a few years back and my goal of what it should look like again: 
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Feb 24, 2012 06:34
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Voltage posted:Going to start a project thread once I install the first round of parts/repairs! On paper, this sounds boring as gently caress, but I can't wait to see it. 
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Feb 24, 2012 12:55
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GutBomb posted:I installed one of these Thanks for the detailed info and  images.  Oil change day on the wife's van. With the garage full of poo poo, it's time to make some nice ink-blot style oil stains on the driveway again (winter day - driveway faces north and makes the undercarriage a wind tunnel).
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Feb 24, 2012 13:27
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Stuff cardboard boxes in under the sides and back, go in from the front. Take a lamp.
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Feb 24, 2012 13:53
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After arriving at my new tropical address with the biggest garage of my life, I ripped the front bumper off... REMOVED Lots more rough roads up here so i'm worried about stray rocks. Already have a pin hole stone chip on the bonnet. Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 4, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2012 14:29
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Tentacle Party posted:After arriving at my new tropical address with the biggest garage of my life, I ripped the front bumper off...
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Feb 24, 2012 18:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Wow. That is an enormous garage. What is it, double deep two-car? Almost. Its about 1 1/2 deep 2 car with a workshop area at the end. The guy who built it restored old CB Hondas and Z1s. Dude knew the value of a good garage. 
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Feb 24, 2012 20:26
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Tentacle Party posted:Almost. Its about 1 1/2 deep 2 car with a workshop area at the end. The guy who built it restored old CB Hondas and Z1s. Dude knew the value of a good garage. Goddamn, I want your garage and your car.
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Feb 24, 2012 20:28
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How far north did you come Tentacle Party? As for me; I took my 18' wheels off and put the factory 17's back on because I absolutely chewed the rears up being a chucklefuck in the wet.
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Feb 24, 2012 20:30
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tobu posted:How far north did you come Tentacle Party? Sunny Innisfail. Work made the choice for me.
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Feb 25, 2012 03:14
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some texas redneck posted:My LS warmed up really quick - if it was above freezing, I had heat within half a mile, assuming I started it and let it idle for 10-15 seconds before taking off. Temp gauge was up to normal within 5 minutes. Also, cardboard is your friend when you have a stuck thermostat, just cut up an old box and shove it in front of half (or 3/4) of the radiator and keep an eye on the gauge. Huh. My Integra's always taken forever to warm up, even when it's warm out. This is with a fresh thermo and everything (it would literally never heat up when I had a stuck thermo). I've toyed with the idea of blocking off the radiator but 
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Feb 25, 2012 05:00
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Tentacle Party posted:Sunny Innisfail. Work made the choice for me. That's not too far in QLD terms then. Innisfail isn't so bad really but if you ever end up in the Ville let me know.
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Feb 25, 2012 06:14
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Went from: to:  Took a lot of sanding, and panics about breaking the needles. Couldn't reach the mph lettering with sandpaper or screwdriver, so I'll be covering the back with some black paper so the green doesn't shine through. Why automakers in the 90s believed green was an acceptable interior lighting colour is beyond me. Next will be full LED conversion to get rid of the hot spots, and to illuminate the needles properly.
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Feb 26, 2012 01:34
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Zuiko-Digital posted:Why automakers in the 90s believed green was an acceptable interior lighting colour is beyond me. I may be pulling this out of my rear end, but I think that's for the same reason night vision goggles are green; the eye is most sensitive to those wavelengths of light. 
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Feb 26, 2012 08:52
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Rorac posted:I may be pulling this out of my rear end, but I think that's for the same reason night vision goggles are green; the eye is most sensitive to those wavelengths of light. It is the color we have the broadest discernible spectrum of intensities. Your eyes suck HARD at blue. Red is next best from green... http://nfggames.com/games/ntsc/visual.shtm See? YOU SUCK.
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Feb 26, 2012 11:22
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Zuiko-Digital posted:
I actually kind of like the effect of the MPH numbers being green.
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Feb 26, 2012 19:24
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added STi splitters, replica lip and STi fog light covers. for reference this is what it looked like long ago with a stock front end  goddamn this little iPhone camera sucks  horns aren't off center, just looks that way. Think the car is done until the summer time... put so much money into it (in fun stuff) over the winter. Worth it though.
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Feb 27, 2012 18:43
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   Ew.
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Feb 27, 2012 20:03
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MiniFoo posted:
In your living room?!
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Feb 27, 2012 23:31
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Best place to tear down a carb. Even a clean one like that.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:34
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Zuiko-Digital posted:In your living room?! Do you remember the beginning of War of the Worlds where Tom Cruise is rebuilding an engine in his kitchen? I secretly envied him.
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Feb 28, 2012 03:12
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