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Wrar posted:My A/C isn't working as of a day or two ago. It sounds like the compressor isn't being engaged. Any recommendations for trouble-shooting? Are you sure? I swear I heard the AC clutch kick in Wednesday night.
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Feb 24, 2012 19:47
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Yes, KW, V1, 2, 3, clubsport all use the same stainless housings. The basics, STs, and 2-way race use a galvanized steel one which is stronger but not as corrosion resistant.Wrar posted:My A/C isn't working as of a day or two ago. It sounds like the compressor isn't being engaged. Any recommendations for trouble-shooting? there is a pressure switch in the system. if there's a leak/not enough refrigerant the compressor won't come on. It's way better to pay someone with the proper equipment to do a re-charge so everything gets vacuumed out, checked for leaks, and re-filled by weight, but you could use one of those cheap gauges by the self-refill cans to find out if this is the problem.
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Feb 24, 2012 20:17
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I'm about to buy a BNR vf40 housing turbo with a td05 18g turbine for my 05 OBXT, going to beef up the oil lines a bit, get a stronger waste gate actuator and tune it down to 12psi until I can upgrade the fuel system to do 20psi later. The engine is being rebuilt (from the last two turbos biting the dust) and I'm going to go with forged pistons, new bearings and probably a new crank. Is there anything else I should look to do inside the engine while it is apart if I'm planning to eventually push the turbo to 20psi and net about 330hp? From what I understand, this is about the upper limit that the stock clutch can handle so I'm going to leave that alone.
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Feb 24, 2012 21:12
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ickna posted:I'm about to buy a BNR vf40 housing turbo with a td05 18g turbine for my 05 OBXT, going to beef up the oil lines a bit, get a stronger waste gate actuator and tune it down to 12psi until I can upgrade the fuel system to do 20psi later. The engine is being rebuilt (from the last two turbos biting the dust) and I'm going to go with forged pistons, new bearings and probably a new crank. Is there anything else I should look to do inside the engine while it is apart if I'm planning to eventually push the turbo to 20psi and net about 330hp? From what I understand, this is about the upper limit that the stock clutch can handle so I'm going to leave that alone. get one of these instead: https://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-GT-380XT-Turbocharger_p_113.html http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-GT-440XT-Turbocharger-_p_114.html (and I can probably save you a few bucks on one) the bnr stuff takes forever to get and ends up costing more than expected. There's (was?) a core charge so you have to pay an extra $200 upfront plus shipping to send it back. and get an upgraded oil pickup jamal fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Feb 24, 2012 |
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Feb 24, 2012 22:13
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jamal posted:get one of these instead: I picked BNR because we're in the same city, my builder gets a discount from him and I'm taking the core from my dead one in upfront. so it'll cost about half as much as the Blouch. The Blouch looks nice and powerful, but it's way out of my price range right now. I'm mostly trying to get the car drivable again and upgrading what I can while it's apart, within reason. I've bookmarked the site though, because 400hp would be  one dayIs there a particular oil pickup you'd recommend?
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Feb 25, 2012 01:26
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ickna posted:I picked BNR because we're in the same city, my builder gets a discount from him and I'm taking the core from my dead one in upfront. so it'll cost about half as much as the Blouch. The Blouch looks nice and powerful, but it's way out of my price range right now. I'm mostly trying to get the car drivable again and upgrading what I can while it's apart, within reason. I've bookmarked the site though, because 400hp would be Killer B: http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/UltimateOiPickup.htm That is the only pickup.
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Feb 25, 2012 02:23
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ickna posted:I picked BNR because we're in the same city, my builder gets a discount from him and I'm taking the core from my dead one in upfront. so it'll cost about half as much as the Blouch. The Blouch looks nice and powerful, but it's way out of my price range right now. I'm mostly trying to get the car drivable again and upgrading what I can while it's apart, within reason. I've bookmarked the site though, because 400hp would be I see. I had some issues getting stuff from him in a timely manner awhile back but that seems more convenient.
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Feb 25, 2012 02:48
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FecalFajita posted:Update: I posted a few pages back about my 04 Forester XT getting CELs p0011 and p0021, along with bad noises and some glittery oil. Ah the mustang dyno, AKA the "breaker of dreams".
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Feb 25, 2012 08:15
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hey Jamal do you have any sources for a zero/sports front bumper for my 05 STi? Edo wants like $1500 and my left nut for one.
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Feb 25, 2012 20:30
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Edo seems to be the exclusive importer of zerosports, so not really. I'm guessing it's not in stock anywhere in the us so a big part of that cost is going to be shipping (and it will probably take 2 months to get to you). If you are dead set on getting that specific bumper I could look into setting up a wholesale account with them which might be worth it for both of us. I'll have my friend who used to work there check on pricing/availability.
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Feb 25, 2012 22:40
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jamal posted:Edo seems to be the exclusive importer of zerosports, so not really. I'm guessing it's not in stock anywhere in the us so a big part of that cost is going to be shipping (and it will probably take 2 months to get to you). If you are dead set on getting that specific bumper I could look into setting up a wholesale account with them which might be worth it for both of us. I'll have my friend who used to work there check on pricing/availability. Yeah, I know they are the ones to go to in the states, and they said it would be 6-weeks. But It is the only aftermarket bumper that I think looks ok an will be functional with a huge rear end FMIC. My stock one is trashed and has no mounts left after getting ran over by a truck at Walmart.
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Feb 25, 2012 22:51
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Wrar posted:My A/C isn't working as of a day or two ago. It sounds like the compressor isn't being engaged. Any recommendations for trouble-shooting? Do you have a multimeter? If so, you can unplug the small power connector on top of the compressor and check to see if it's getting power. If it's not getting power, it could be a bad relay. The clutch is pretty loud too (I can hear mine engage at idle in the garage), so see if you hear the "click" or not. If it is getting power but the clutch isn't engaging, your clutch might be shot. I replaced my whole compressor for that reason last summer (along with the expansion valve and the dryer). My clutch would try to engage and there's be a horrible squealing as the belt slipped on it. I don't know if it's possible to replace the clutch assembly without replacing the whole compressor. Hopefully it's a relay - some of them are available aftermarket at Autozone/Napa. Replacing everything I did last summer was a pretty terrible job, especially in the heat and humidity of mid-July. Edit: or as Jamal said, something wonky with the amount of refrigerant in the system
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Feb 25, 2012 23:34
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Holdbrooks posted:Yeah, I know they are the ones to go to in the states, and they said it would be 6-weeks. But It is the only aftermarket bumper that I think looks ok an will be functional with a huge rear end FMIC. My stock one is trashed and has no mounts left after getting ran over by a truck at Walmart. well there's probably an extreme dimensions knock-off. It's where we got our replacement bumper after this incident: I think it was like $200.
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Feb 26, 2012 01:55
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jamal posted:well there's probably an extreme dimensions knock-off. It's where we got our replacement bumper after this incident: Yeah, not for the 05's. If there was I would have it already, and I have seen one that somebody grafted an 06 to the 05 and it was pretty nasty.
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Feb 26, 2012 02:09
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I cleaned out my throttle body and IAC valve today on my 2002 2.5TS. The IAC was disgustingly fouled. Anyway, when I put it back together and ran it for awhile, I noticed that it now has a really high idle. When coming to a stop it'll hover at 1500 RPM for a few seconds then die down to 1100 and stay there. A code came on, I can't remember the number but it was something to do with a high idle that the idle control valve couldn't bring down. I'm guessing the gasket/o ring for the IAC valve is leaking - can I get one from a dealer?
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Feb 26, 2012 07:13
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MrZig posted:I cleaned out my throttle body and IAC valve today on my 2002 2.5TS. The IAC was disgustingly fouled. Get the gasket from a dealer and replace it. Also reset your ECU.
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Feb 26, 2012 15:44
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Slow is Fast posted:Get the gasket from a dealer and replace it. Well the reason I was asking is because google searches said that dealers don't sell the gasket on its own. Also, is there a proper way to reset the ECU? I took the battery cables off and held positive to negative for 20 seconds already.
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Feb 26, 2012 21:40
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MrZig posted:Well the reason I was asking is because google searches said that dealers don't sell the gasket on its own. I wouldn't do that, it's never a good idea to short anything on purpose. Just hold down the brake pedal for a few seconds. The brake lights come on even when the car is off, so that'll run any power out of the system.
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Feb 26, 2012 22:39
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Hoping to get some help with my 2006 WRX! It has about 73k miles on it, hasn't been raced or driven crazily, and I haven't had a single issue with it since purchasing it last October. I took it to the dealership yesterday to get the oil changed, and about 30 minutes after dropping it off received a call from them saying my clutch and flywheel were worn out and needed to be replaced. I was pretty surprised, and was pretty skeptical until I picked up my car. It has been smelling a little more clutchy lately, but I figured that was just how I was driving (nothing too crazy, its a new car to me so I still have fun when I drive it  ). I've helped replace a clutch and flywheel in a 2000 Impreza wagon, so I know how long it takes to take apart everything and get in there, so the 30 minute turnaround call is what initially made me un-easy. They told me they diagnosed it based on smell, and how it engaged on the drive to the lift.Anywho, I was really paranoid on my drive home and thought it felt a little funny, but figured I was just worrying too much. Today while driving it, the clutch felt really strange, a lot more travel than I'm used to, I had to almost fully let it out before 1st would really engage. It also felt like it was revving really strange during acceleration, like it was trying to rev high, but the pickup wasn't what it should have been at those RPMs. No clutch smell at all that I could detect. I also had my dad drive it as he's been driving a manual forever, and he thinks there is definitely something wrong with it. I guess I'm just really sketched out that my car seemed fine when I took it in, and a few hours later the clutch is supposedly out. Do they really die that fast? Is there anyway the dealership messed with it? I know that sounds crazy but part of my brain still thinks dealerships will do anything for a few bucks. They quoted me about $1630 to fix it (not sure if that includes labor), so I was going to make some calls tomorrow to private shops and another subi dealership to see if that sounds right. Does that seem like a fair price for parts and labor? Would a private shop charge more or less since they'd most likely have to order the parts? Anyone have shop recommendations for the Phoenix/Tempe area? Let me know if I'm being dumb about the dealership, I just feel like its too much of a coincidence and now I'm worried about my little buddy!
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Feb 26, 2012 23:39
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What you describe sounds like the clutch slipping. When you're in gear in boost and you really slam on the gas, do the RPMs jump way up, then drop back down immediately when you let off? It's kind of weird that it's been working fine for you, then suddenly after an oil change it isn't fine anymore. I don't want to say "the dealer screwed it up on purpose to get a clutch job", so I don't know what to think about that. That quote seems really high though.
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Feb 27, 2012 00:55
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chrisgt posted:What you describe sounds like the clutch slipping. When you're in gear in boost and you really slam on the gas, do the RPMs jump way up, then drop back down immediately when you let off? Yeah, although I haven't been slamming on the gas, that is exactly what happens. It also happens when I accelerate at a normal rate, like from 60-70 over 10 seconds. RPMs will jump up to over 4k for a second, and then drop back down to the normal rate. Yeah I find it hard to believe a dealership did that, especially in the time they had it before they called me. I'll call around for some more quotes tomorrow, was even going to call another dealership to see if they'd quote me the same price. Good thing I haven't sold my old car yet... now I have a ride to work at least! Driving it made me pretty uncomfortable, and I don't want to get stuck on the road somewhere.
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Feb 27, 2012 01:41
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clutch kit ~ $200-500 (or more for the fancy race stuff) labor ~ $300-500 machine flywheel ~ 30-50 gear oil ~ 40-80 pretty hard to get it to add up to $1600. edit, here's msrp: clutch disc - 149.95 pressure plate - 174.95 throwout bearing - 49.95 pilot bearing - 12.23 flywheel (which doesn't need to be replaced) - 332.95 so even if they replace all that stuff at msrp there's still $850 in labor for a job that takes 3 hours at most for someone who has the right tools and knows what they're doing. I guess if the rate is $150 it adds up for the most part, but that pricing is still insane. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 03:55
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FecalFajita posted:Update: I posted a few pages back about my 04 Forester XT getting CELs p0011 and p0021, along with bad noises and some glittery oil. Can't guarantee it's going to keep going, but it definitely looks like it's running strong. It depends on the dyno and the shop running it: mustang dynos are anecdotally "heartbreakers," but that's not true across the board - go off how it feels when you drive it, do a road dyno like virtual dyno or airboy to get a basis for comparison if you'd like. I expect you'll get something around 280 or 290 whp with virtualdyno. If my engine had just been sludged though, I would definitely be worried about its longevity putting out more power after it's cleaned out. IMO, if you're going to be pushing the motor (and it doesn't sound to be a very young motor), shoot for having the funds to replace it or have a backup daily driver at the ready. Also, get some bigger injectors and get it tuned for E85, you will absolutely not regret it (if you have access to E85). Very nice numbers though - I love seeing high power foresters
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Feb 27, 2012 03:57
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jamal posted:clutch kit ~ $200-500 (or more for the fancy race stuff) Thanks Jamal. Now I can tell them I got a quote from another mechanic and see if they budge at all . I just want the stock parts so those prices should be fine. Any reason the flywheel doesn't need to be replaced? Or should I let a shop decide that when they look at it all? Hopefully I can find somewhere to take care of this for less than a grand. *Edit* Got a quote from a guy who mostly works on Mini's, but I got a lot of great recommendations from my dad and some autox guys he knows. He looked at the pricing, and he said he could do the Solid Flywheel Conversion kit that includes the clutch (do I want this? I know the stock clutch is the the Dual Mass one), and labor for $1200. If I don't need the flywheel, he can order the clutch and do the job for about a grand. Seems pretty fair to me. Iron Lung fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 04:44
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Man, I'm turning into a Subaru hoarder.. Picked up a 94 Turbo Wagon - Rebuilding the motor over the next week months. Scored a Legacy Turbo 5Speed earlier. EJ22T ftw. I'll probably have a bit of a project thread for the wagon later. Forged internals, probably some head work and some other upgrades. They won't see this Granny wagon coming. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Feb 27, 2012 05:06
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I just want to pimp out RCE more. My T1s have 60k mi. They are more than 3 years old. They need a rebuild. They been tracked, autocrossed, and even ice raced (RCE knows this). I contacted RCE for recommendations for rebuilds. . . . They're doing it for freaking free.
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Feb 27, 2012 05:34
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 Untitled by Monster_truck, on Flickr This just came in today from STi/Japan! 30,000 yen, but its pretty warm for cold track days. Monstertruck fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 18:57
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Iron Lung posted:Thanks Jamal. Now I can tell them I got a quote from another mechanic and see if they budge at all OK STOP. all of this pricing you are getting is insanely high. $100/hr is a pretty standard labor rate and it does not take anywhere near 12 hours to change a clutch. Most of the time a flywheel just needs to be resurfaced. Occasionally someone will absolutely roast the clutch and warp the flywheel beyond repair but that is a pretty rare occurance. Exedy makes the oem clutch, and the kit from them is not very expensive: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Exedy-OEM-Replacement-Clutch-Subaru-Models-inc-2006-2011-WRX-2005-2009-Legacy-GT (and I could take a few bucks off that pricing) you basically just need that, a machined flywheel, new gear oil (if you've recently changed it with something expensive a shop can usually save most of it), and the labor. Like I said, $500 for labor is about all I would expect to pay for this. The 06 wrx does NOT have a dual mass flywheel. Only the LGT got them. In the Phoenix area talk to or Snail performance or UMS tuning. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 21:54
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jamal posted:OK STOP. all of this pricing you are getting is insanely high. $100/hr is a pretty standard labor rate and it does not take anywhere near 12 hours to change a clutch. I was actually just coming back to post that, I've gotten the dual mass flywheel thing from two dealerships (called to see if they'd quote me the same), but everything else I was finding said 06 WRX's had a normal flywheel. Thats so weird, why would they not know about the correct part? Just for kicks, they both quoted me 6.5 hours of labor at $115/hour, and a dual mass clutch kit being $850. I'll give UMS a call in a while, Snail is reaaaally far out there! Thanks again dude, I really appreciate the info.
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Feb 27, 2012 22:30
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Soooo I'm looking at getting a new (to me) car and would loooove a wrx. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/2864673918.html I found this on craigslist in my area and am wondering what you guys think. Im not sure on the life of subarus and hopefully you guys can fill me in a little bit. I dont necessarily care too much about looks, but more the life it may have left. Pleaase tell what I should look for when buying a used wrx. I probably only got a 8000 to 10000 budget... Thanks
thisisme fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 27, 2012 |
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Feb 27, 2012 23:05
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thisisme posted:Soooo I'm looking at getting a new (to me) car and would loooove a wrx. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/2864673918.html I found this on craigslist in my area and am wondering what you guys think. Im not sure on the life of subarus and hopefully you guys can fill me in a little bit. Pleaase fill me in on what I should look for when buying a used wrx. I probably only got a 8000 to 10000 budget... Thanks Price seems ok but as the OP will tell you, the 1998 has a "phase 1" DOHC EJ25 that has a propensity for blowing headgaskets. It sounds like from the bent rad support and bumper beam damage that it has been in a relatively major accident that is either unreported or somehow fixed cheaply by an insurance company, because it would have totalled the car out and removed its clean title. Needing a new AC condenser isn't cheap. Honestly, it sounds like this car was owned by an idiot high school student who proceeded to thrash it as much as possible and is now trying to dump it now that the body damage has given way to imminent mechanical problems. You can find a WRX in your price range; I would not settle for the (massively overpriced) 2.5RS coupes.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:12
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thisisme posted:Soooo I'm looking at getting a new (to me) car and would loooove a wrx. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/2864673918.html I found this on craigslist in my area and am wondering what you guys think. Im not sure on the life of subarus and hopefully you guys can fill me in a little bit. Pleaase fill me in on what I should look for when buying a used wrx. I probably only got a 8000 to 10000 budget... Thanks You would spend an extra 3-5k getting that car running right. Most of the RS I have seen, the owners want way too much. I think that this is the case with this one. It is rusty, has potential engine problems (aside from having 170k on the chassis/drivetrain), blown shocks and bad A/C. This is just what the owner says is wrong with it. Only God knows what you will run into when you crawl under it. Personally, I would steer clear of this one and look for an 02-03 WRX for around 9k.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:12
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thisisme posted:Soooo I'm looking at getting a new (to me) car and would loooove a wrx. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/2864673918.html I found this on craigslist in my area and am wondering what you guys think. Im not sure on the life of subarus and hopefully you guys can fill me in a little bit. Pleaase fill me in on what I should look for when buying a used wrx. I probably only got a 8000 to 10000 budget... Thanks That's a hosed up RS with 170k on the clock, blown suspension, damage, rust and god knows what else. Go there and offer him $1200 if you want that car in particular. Things to look for would be clutch, regular/major maintenance (new fluids, belts, etc), and mods. Mods do not add value to the car. Don't fall for "Oh yeah the KBB is $8k but I put $3,000 in mods into it so I'll cut you a deal at $10,500". I'm still not quite sure how I found my WRX, I got lucky as hell with a Craigslist Wanted ad of all things. I would check out local Subaru message boards and see what people are selling. Not sure if California has a great community, but around here there are massive amounts of Subaru enthusiasts who I wouldn't hesitate to buy a car off of.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:15
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Iron Lung posted:I was actually just coming back to post that, I've gotten the dual mass flywheel thing from two dealerships (called to see if they'd quote me the same), but everything else I was finding said 06 WRX's had a normal flywheel. Thats so weird, why would they not know about the correct part? Just for kicks, they both quoted me 6.5 hours of labor at $115/hour, and a dual mass clutch kit being $850. also it's really easy to replace all the shifter bushings at this point (and trans x-member bushings) if you want to do any upgrades.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:16
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jamal posted:also it's really easy to replace all the shifter bushings at this point (and trans x-member bushings) if you want to do any upgrades. That sounds good if I wasnt dropping about a grand for it all, wouldn't mind a short shifter... is there a performance benefit for getting new shifter bushings vs the cost? UMS quoted me $660 ($90/hour) for labor, not sure if they'll go lower if it goes quicker, and it's cheaper if I order the clutch myself through that link you sent, its $420 through them. Seems like a $1k is about as cheap as I'm going to get it done for around here, so I'll probably go with them.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:52
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depends how you like the way your shifter is. replacing all the bushings nearly eliminates all the side to side slop and gives you a very direct feeling engaging the gears. the short shifter reduces throw and lowers the knob a little bit. I have done everything and it was a night and day difference (although one of my shifter linkage bushings was gone). The short shifter and all the bushings is about $200. also if you'd like a price quote for any of this stuff send me an email- peterleclaire at gmail. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Feb 28, 2012 |
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Feb 28, 2012 00:23
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thisisme posted:Soooo I'm looking at getting a new (to me) car and would loooove a wrx. http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/2864673918.html I found this on craigslist in my area and am wondering what you guys think. Im not sure on the life of subarus and hopefully you guys can fill me in a little bit. I dont necessarily care too much about looks, but more the life it may have left. Pleaase tell what I should look for when buying a used wrx. I probably only got a 8000 to 10000 budget... Thanks There's something to be said for a 2.5RS if you don't want the complication of a turbo and don't want to go particularly fast. But like everyone else has already said, there's nothing to be said for that one. Check out the comedy project subaru thread in AI - that's basically what that thing is. Only black. Also a deafening exhaust that will probably not pass noise or emissions if yourstate does those things and doesn't do anything for its performance.
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Feb 28, 2012 10:43
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I literally own a '97 Impreza with 208,000 miles and bumper-flapping cancer that is in better nick than that. I paid $1000 for it. In Canada. I've seen similar ones go for $400, so I even got a little ripped off.  The coupes are awesome little cars but they're not worth the premium; I'm now seeing 02-03 2.5TSes going for less than $5k. Summer is the time to buy all Subarus here, but I have no idea if that holds true in California. Message boards are the way to go. RS25 always has Californians posting, so does Dirty Impreza. edit: For instance, this workable $5k 2000 2.5RS coupe in Monterey. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Feb 28, 2012 |
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Feb 28, 2012 15:09
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Monstertruck posted:
Nice. I don't have the balls to order any item of clothing from Japan when their XXL is our M.
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Feb 28, 2012 23:03
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GC's are overrated. Get a bugeye RS. Newer car, better chassis, less money.
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Feb 29, 2012 01:01
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