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So you brush them on kinda like dry brushing then use a sealant to... seal them in place, right? Doesn't seem too complicated. E: You can use isopropyl alcohol to spread them out, too right?
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Feb 29, 2012 20:37
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kicks forts posted:Can anyone recommend a cheap UK brand of white primer? I did a (bad) bit of research and bought a can of plasti-kote plastic spray and it's all glossy. I have heard the Halfords White Primer is okay.
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Feb 29, 2012 20:50
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey guys, I want Forgeworld weathering powders but don't want to pay full price+shipping from England to Nebraska. Anyone got a US site that carries them or, better yet a cheaper version of the same stuff? I also use the vallejo ones and they seem to work fine.
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Feb 29, 2012 20:53
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kicks forts posted:Can anyone recommend a cheap UK brand of white primer? I did a (bad) bit of research and bought a can of plasti-kote plastic spray and it's all glossy. Halfords White Primer. About the best for lower than GW asks.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:09
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WIP for Iron Painter. Taking this photo made me see just how much I still have left on it, but hey, there's four more days. And then I can take the photo under better circumstances.
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Feb 29, 2012 21:50
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Halfords White Primer. About the best for lower than GW asks. Nthing this. Halfords auto primers are ace. Otherwise so are Plastikotes, but you have to make sure you pick up their primer and not just a spray paint :P
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Feb 29, 2012 21:54
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So from one of the Imperial Fists videos I watched, the general recipe for awesome battle chipped and weathered yellow armor is this: 1. Prime White 2. Basecoat Iyaden Darksun 3. 1:1 mix of Sunburst and Golden Yellow until solid. 4. Wash with Devlan or any darker brown into the crevices for shading. 5. Highlight with Sunburst yellow (or whichever one is brighter. 6. Do chips in the armor with Scorched Brown on big flat areas and edges. 7. Paint thin spots/lines of Boltgun in the brown spots. 8. Paint a thin white line just beneath the brown to give the illusion of pock marks. 9. Go crazy with dirt pigments for a weathered look. 10. Seal with matte sealant, do detail work. For metal I plan on doing 1. Basecoat black 2. 1:1 mix of Boltgun+Tin Bitz 3. Glaze with Hawk Turquoise. 4. Rust powder with isopropyl alcohol. 5. Blacken areas around exhaust/firing openings with black powder. 6. Sealant. 7. Wash lightly with Devlan mud for brown hue. 8. Drybrush chainmail on fine edges for "fresh" chipping. I think it should work, it sounds very intensive but Warmachine is a lower model count game compared to some. Since the model itself will be mostly warm tones (browns and yellows) I guess the bases will be gray concrete and bright metal and gravel, dead grass.
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Feb 29, 2012 22:16
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Lethemonster posted:Nthing this. Halfords auto primers are ace. Otherwise so are Plastikotes, but you have to make sure you pick up their primer and not just a spray paint :P I hope I can return this poo poo, last thing I need's a £8 can of unusable paint sitting on a shelf. Need that money for spacemans. If only that redshirt who chided me for washing my 90+ troops instead of painting highlights for a solid month could see me now.
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Feb 29, 2012 22:31
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Started sculpting some maquettes. Basically going to do a bunch of crappy little figure studies like this until I get comfortable enough to start doing more detail work. Prob took about an hour, in two sessions between GS curing.  Also, painted this dude 
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Feb 29, 2012 22:35
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PaintVagrant posted:Eh, it's alright I guess?
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Feb 29, 2012 22:38
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Oh! I remembered a question: I bought a moisture trap for my airbrush. It says in the instruction to cut the hose and insert the trap somewhere close to the brush. Is there anything special I should know about doing that or is it pretty simple?
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Feb 29, 2012 22:42
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Last time I was in Gauntlet Games they had a couple sets of pigment powders, CFH. Not Forgeworld, but powders.
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Feb 29, 2012 22:47
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Really? I'm going there this weekend. I'll try to keep an eye out. Thanks!
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Feb 29, 2012 22:59
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crime fighting hog posted:Hey guys, I want Forgeworld weathering powders but don't want to pay full price+shipping from England to Nebraska. Anyone got a US site that carries them or, better yet a cheaper version of the same stuff? The Secret Weapon miniatures line is fantastic. I use them on everything.
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Mar 1, 2012 00:33
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I gave the armor chipping a shot:   The actual models will have a brighter yellow but I had this guy collecting dust on my shelf. The chipping is sloppy but I can get better at it with practice (I hope). Any thoughts? The chipping would be followed up with weathering if I had the stuff to do it.
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Mar 1, 2012 04:01
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Honestly I always just used Tin Bitz followed by a little bit of Boltgun Metal for chipping.
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Mar 1, 2012 05:02
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Devlan Mud posted:Yeah, maybe in comparison to implied rape eldar. Seriously: wasn't being serious. 
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Mar 1, 2012 05:27
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crime fighting hog posted:I gave the armor chipping a shot: There was a neat guide in an old WD that I clipped here: http://sigismunds.blogspot.com/2009/09/painting-yellow.html
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Mar 1, 2012 09:10
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Yeast posted:The Secret Weapon miniatures line is fantastic. Unf. That looks good.
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Mar 1, 2012 09:33
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Gonna paint Blood Angels soon. Spraying this then using quick shade: bad idea?
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Mar 1, 2012 14:14
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:Gonna paint Blood Angels soon. "Dragon Red" rather than "Pure Red" basecoat, but they had this image in their example gallery (which can be searched by basecoat/dip type, pretty nifty): http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=61&Gallery=Dragon%20Red:%20Blood%20Angel&page=1 Looks alright to me, a quick spot of highlighting and it'd honestly look better than most of my (painstakingly) painted stuff. 
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Mar 1, 2012 14:45
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OneTrueBru posted:"Dragon Red" rather than "Pure Red" basecoat, but they had this image in their example gallery (which can be searched by basecoat/dip type, pretty nifty): http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=61&Gallery=Dragon%20Red:%20Blood%20Angel&page=1 Well, gently caress.
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Mar 1, 2012 15:07
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:Well, gently caress. Exactly. Probably the best way of knocking an army out and still having it look drat good on the tabletop. Save the effort for the heroes, I guess.
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Mar 1, 2012 17:28
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Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much?  Just bouncing the concept before I add detailing, I'm particularly keen on ladders and armour plates hanging down to make the two halves more integrated.
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Mar 1, 2012 18:07
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Miles O'Brian posted:Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much? Painted up, and with the additions you are talking about, that thing is going to look amazing.
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Mar 1, 2012 18:08
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Miles O'Brian posted:Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much? Not enough! Please please please keep the blingin' chrome wheels.
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Mar 1, 2012 18:09
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Miles O'Brian posted:Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much? Please say this is a remote control car and you're going to drive it around on the table.  "you just squashed my tactical squad" "they failed their Death or Glory test"
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Mar 1, 2012 18:24
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I really really really wanted a remote control battlewagon but I ended up having to chop most of it down, mangling the gears and worky bits in the process. The only thing left is the axles, really.
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Mar 1, 2012 18:29
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I don't think that the words "too much" ever occur in the Ork language, ever. If it can be bolted on to a vehicle to make it more awesome, it will be done. Keep going with this concept! Not enough monster trukks in 40k  Edit: Reminds me of the huge Komatsu trucks I used to work on during my days on the mine site. Man, if you ever wanted a picture of what the surface of mars might look like up close, working in the North of Western Australia on an iron ore mine would do it for you. Knew I should have saved some of that fine dust to use to weather my miniatures... The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Mar 1, 2012 |
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Mar 1, 2012 18:43
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Miles that owns and you need to paint it, like right loving now.  Also I never noticed how much the enclosed cab + ram looks like an ork head with an iron gob. I'm sure that's the intention with it, but I'm too derpy to notice such things, heh.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:16
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Miles O'Brian posted:Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much? 
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Mar 1, 2012 21:42
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What do UK goons use for stripping paint off plastics? The big "Use Simple Green" thing is ok other than that it costs £16/litre + postage. Is there anything cheaper that's as effective that's actually available?
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Mar 1, 2012 22:00
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Moonwolf posted:What do UK goons use for stripping paint off plastics? The big "Use Simple Green" thing is ok other than that it costs £16/litre + postage. Is there anything cheaper that's as effective that's actually available? I use brown Dettol. Leave your minis in it for a week. Be careful with diluting it though. Then use a brush to scrub the paint off. Acetone free nail varnish remover is good for metals - it melts plastic though so don't use it.
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Mar 1, 2012 22:06
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Moonwolf posted:What do UK goons use for stripping paint off plastics? The big "Use Simple Green" thing is ok other than that it costs £16/litre + postage. Is there anything cheaper that's as effective that's actually available? Yeah, neat Dettol works nicely in my experience, though it doesn't do poo poo with enamel. Not sure if anything does, though...
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Mar 1, 2012 22:13
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I use Biostrip 20, the 500ml tub. It looks like PVA and is the least harsh chemical I've found that will do the job. Its water based, solvent free, non-toxic, non-caustic, ph neutral, fume free and can be washed straight down the sink. Bit expensive but you can reuse the same batch a few times before you need to ditch it. After stripping an entire Sisters army with Nitromors and feeling like I needed a Hazmat suit every time, this stuff was like heaven. Now I just chuck minis in a pot for a couple of hours and rinse/scrub in the kitchen sink. I am pretty much done with the Monster Trukk at this point, I just need to add the gunners on the back. Looks a lot more integrated. Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Mar 1, 2012 |
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Mar 1, 2012 22:42
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Monster Trukk could use some spikes or other gubbins on the rims maybe.
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Mar 1, 2012 22:58
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I do have the girder-spikes from the Stompa set, I might go for it. I was thinking it needed some riveted armor over the hubcaps but I dunno if it will spoil the look.
Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 1, 2012 |
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Mar 1, 2012 23:15
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Miles O'Brian posted:I do have the girder-spikes from the Stompa set, I might go for it. I was thinking it needed some riveted armor over the hubcaps but I dunno if it will spoil the look. The stompa spikes were exactly what I was picturing. I vote no on the armor for hubcaps, but it's your monsta-trukk.
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Mar 2, 2012 02:49
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Miles O'Brian posted:Battlewagon with Deffrolla. Too much? Add some armored skirts and running boards with grab handles for boyz to stand on and job's a good 'un.
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Mar 2, 2012 02:58
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That battlewagon looks like it'll turn out rad, can monster truck wheels be the googly eyes of ork armies? Airbrush question, anyone have paint recommendations to use as a primer for my models? Vallejo model air looks rad but no where in this town stocks them, and I wanna paint guys over the weekend. Anyone have any experience with using Tamiya's liquid surface primers?
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Mar 2, 2012 03:57
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