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fins posted:I've had reasonable success with vSFM on linux with a hilariously poor camera. You can grab it here I just tried out vSFM on windows and it worked well. I am little confused what to do with the files it generated though. I first ran all ~600 frames of a video through it but it crashed while generating the point cloud. I re-ran it using 200 frames from the same video and the point cloud that came out is great. I don't know what do with the output now though because it saves a million files and I don't know what needs to go where to get something I can play with and edit in another program. I am still getting the hang of ReconstructMe, but I think for this specific application I will have to abandon it. The results from the software are really nice, but it seems to have lots of problems dealing with objects of any detail that are smaller than a shoe box. Will be nice for anything large you want to scale down, however. I am also currently trying out another online 3d scanner, hypr3d.com. Hopefully this one works out better than my3dscanner.com. Anyone have any other opensource, trial or freeware 3d scanner software to try out? Preferably ones you don't have to upload things to? When I finally get a package I like and a good filming technique for the scans I will have to put up a comparison post.
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Mar 2, 2012 21:10
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So I just found the thread and was looking around Thingiverse and found the following. Unlike most of the stuff here, this involves the use of a laser cutter. Are there hobbyist models out there or are they far behind the 3D printing type projects?
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Mar 3, 2012 04:55
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Solkanar512 posted:So I just found the thread and was looking around Thingiverse and found the following. There are hobbyist class laser cutters in the sub 2k region. Like this one. There's also the Lasersaur which aims to produce an open source style cutter, they're most of the way to the 1.0 version. Their current BOM prices out the lasersaur to around $6,700. That said, the 2k FSLaser is a 40W cutter and the lasersaur is 100w. FSLaser doesn't offer a 100w cutter for less than $10000. I'd like to note a few things. One, I have no idea about the relative capabilities of 100w vs 40w. Two, I don't really know typical pricing of a 40w cutter, the FSLaser may well be an excellent deal, or maybe not. Most of the money in the Lasersaur is not in the laser(only around $1200), so you won't save much money going to a weaker laser if you choose to make one. Aurium fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Mar 3, 2012 |
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Mar 3, 2012 05:11
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Aurium posted:There are hobbyist class laser cutters in the sub 2k region. Like this one. Ugh, there goes my dreams of making my own constructable card game. :p
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Mar 3, 2012 05:50
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Bart Dring has some DIY Laser Cutter designs on his website http://buildlog.net This is the same guy that created Makerslide and Quantum ORDbot printers, etc. Here's his Bill of materials for his v2 laser cutter. http://buildlog.net/cnc_laser/erp/bom.html Total cost of parts is $852.96 according to that page. I think this is supposed to include everything but the actual CO2 laser tube. You can get a 40W laser tube from Chinese sellers on ebay for $168 shipped There's at least one 3d printable laser cutter design. Then there's whole assembled laser cutters for as low as about $850 on ebay. This is just some of the cutters I've seen around the internet. I've never messed with any of them, don't have the funds at the moment, but I'm definitely interested in them. Edit: Those Lasersaur people seem like some money grubbing dicks to me. Their whole design is just spare no expense attitude, not even trying to keep costs down. For example you don't need a $150 GeckoDrive with 8A current rating to drive a Nema17 motor with a 0.85A rating. A $14 Pololu driver could handle that instead. There's probably a hundred other ways they could have cut cost too. $222.48 for 412 t-slot nuts to hold together what is essentially a box? Is all that really necessary? Oh, I don't know because they're still charging charging $64 for "beta access" to their "open source" designs, nearly 2 years after they already raised $20K from kickstarter.  peepsalot fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Mar 3, 2012 |
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Mar 3, 2012 06:12
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Solkanar512 posted:Ugh, there goes my dreams of making my own constructable card game. :p That was awesome, and you're not the only one who dreamed of making their own in some way.  I wonder what would do the trick materials and laser-wise to make that happen. I used to make mini dinosaurs out of laser-cut paper (well, got someone to cut them for me as I didn't and don't have my own laser cutter). I always thought that the same plastic from that Pirates game would be totally awesome for a dinosaur model.
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Mar 3, 2012 06:17
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I have the Full Spectrum Laser and I have used a Universal and Epilog. The full spectrum laser is **not** remotely a plug and play laser unfortunately and it takes a good deal of tweaking to get it working correctly. Honestly, I think they are overpriced. So are Universal and Epilog mind you, but their stuff is far better designed.
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Mar 3, 2012 07:45
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Solkanar512 posted:So I just found the thread and was looking around Thingiverse and found the following. I don't want to knock that thing, cause it looks really cool- however there is more to that then 'load plastic into laser cutter press print'- each of those tiles also had it's etched pattern painted/dyed to get the colour to show through. Further there is more then one way to generate such items. 1. Because the resolution on the painting/dye is going to be relatively low you could probably achieve a largely similar result via a CNC machine with a very fine bit for cutting plastic. 2. Because there is really only 'etch' and 'cut' going into this (no actual texturing based on cut depth as far as I can tell) you could also put one of those $163 40w laser tubes into a CNC machine- your Z axis would just need to differentiate between 'etch' and 'cut'. So basically this project could, with minimal alteration, be done on a CNC machine. Next- if translucent is as good as crystal clear most 3d printers using clear PLA could get the tiles done- though they will not be see through, they will be kind of cloudy, they will allow light through and have enough of a pattern that once dyed/painted you will see the colours through. Finally- if you can find some way to get the actual tiles cut out of clear plastic- you could use a 3d printer to produce the pattern as a 'snap on' for the bottom, load each clear tile into the snap on and get the finished effect (You could use glass or crystal for that instead of plastic which might make it look even more snazzy- glass could be melted into a form inside a kiln if you happen to have one) I am sure there are other ways that I have not covered, probably better ways- but those are the ones that were evident to me.
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Mar 3, 2012 17:51
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Maybe you should pop into this thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3412940 See if there is a place like that in your area. Laser cutters seem to be a pretty common tool for them to have.
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Mar 3, 2012 19:00
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So I just stumbled across this parametric house key on thingiverse and saw an amazingly clean looking model someone printed: Turns out this was printed on a Solido SD300 printer, which is not exactly hobby level(costs about $15K I think), but I hadn't seen this style of printer before and thought the technology used is pretty interesting. It's called LOM(Laminated Object Manufacturing), and works by rolling out a sheet of plastic, cutting out the layer shape and gluing the layers together. It has a glue cartridge and some sort of anti-glue, which I don't quite understand. From watching some demo videos, it appears that the anti-glue is applied with little plotter pens (3 of them for some reason, different diameters maybe?). I didn't see how the regular glue is applied, but I guess it gets rolled on or something after the anti-glue and doesn't adhere to those pieces, or maybe the anti-glue just causes it not to cure. I just think the quality of the models produced with this process is really amazing and has many advantages over typical FDM such as making 100% solid parts, transparent parts, multi color parts with no color bleeding, built in support structure, etc. It seems there is some interest in making a LOM RepRap, but I don't think anyone has created a working printer yet, still sort of design/alpha stage at the moment. Some people are talking about laminating paper and wood glue, which would presumably make printed objects with wood-like properties. I'm thinking this could be really amazing for printing multilayer PCBs if some sort of metallic foil could be used in between the plastic layers. Maybe even print out custom capacitors! Or printable motors with integrated coils, etc. This is blowing my mind 
peepsalot fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Mar 4, 2012 |
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Mar 4, 2012 22:48
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peepsalot posted:
Back like 15 years ago, my college had a few rapid proto machines. One was a giant worktable, say 8' x 8', and it used special heat-fused paper. Robot rolls out a sheet, laser on a traveler cuts a shape, robots rolls another sheet and a hot roller irons it together. Repeat ad infinitum, and it was really close to wood. Cool! Printable multilayer PCBs makes me tingly though.
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Mar 5, 2012 00:36
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Wow, that's nuts! I spent almost my entire Sunday printing a smaller, shittier version of a commercial shotshell holder.  You save on $$ but "pay" in other ways.
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Mar 5, 2012 19:53
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Holy Crap, Veloso updated his blog for the first time since October.JUNIOR VELOSO posted:Hi Guys,
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Mar 8, 2012 00:32
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Tad SG posted:Holy Crap, Veloso updated his blog for the first time since October. Yea he updated his twitter about 16 or 17 days back saying they were on track and almost done the kits. Pretty awesome considering everyone thought he was bought out and disappeared!
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Mar 8, 2012 00:56
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Tad SG posted:Holy Crap, Veloso updated his blog for the first time since October. This... is unexpected. Excellent. I'm still torn on what FDM printer to get but I'd totally pull the trigger on that kit if it is under $2K. Maybe I haven't thought it through fully.. is there anything you couldn't make through his process that you could make with the FDM process? All it comes down to is how the material strength/cost compares, yes?
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Mar 8, 2012 01:57
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kafkasgoldfish posted:This... is unexpected. Excellent. I'm still torn on what FDM printer to get but I'd totally pull the trigger on that kit if it is under $2K. I can't think of anything FDM could do that his metholodgy could not do. Though material strength could vary radically from FDM PLA or ABS; Still, unless its super fragile or decays in sunlight or something, I think it really only comes down to accuracy/speed and cost/print cost/unit. He would seem to have a winner on accuracy, though it may actually be less accurate then it seems with the errors being hidden by the natural smoothing of light bleeding, not sure on speed. A FDM will most likely win on price/print- but depending on your application that may be irrelevant (If your willing to post process fill with expanding foam or what-naught it might even be lower cost/print compared to grid fill PLA/ABS).
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Mar 8, 2012 03:38
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kafkasgoldfish posted:This... is unexpected. Excellent. I'm still torn on what FDM printer to get but I'd totally pull the trigger on that kit if it is under $2K. I'm imagining maybe an object with a hollow void, with 100% solid walls surrounding it would be difficult, It might end up with a bunch of liquid still in it?
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Mar 8, 2012 04:29
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As long as you leave a tiny hole at the top of the print it'll all drain out as it gets lifted during the print.
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Mar 8, 2012 06:51
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Linux Assassin posted:I can't think of anything FDM could do that his metholodgy could not do. Though material strength could vary radically from FDM PLA or ABS; Still, unless its super fragile or decays in sunlight or something, I think it really only comes down to accuracy/speed and cost/print cost/unit. Last post I saw that mentioned price was suggesting it was up to $350/L for the resin. At that price point it probably translates to at least a few bucks per model when creating a hollow shell versus the couple of bucks of ABS you might spend making a 100% fill object. Hopefully the prices come down significantly. quote:Q: How much cost the resins? Incidentally, most expanding foams expand significantly and then eventually shrink, not to mention variations due to temperature (I tried filling papercraft type stuff with foam and it was a horrendous failure due to this  ). But PVA/Plaster or just more resin/epoxy would do the trick.
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Mar 8, 2012 16:32
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Mister Sinewave posted:Wow, that's nuts!
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Mar 9, 2012 06:09
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nesbit37 posted:I just tried out vSFM on windows and it worked well. I am little confused what to do with the files it generated though. I first ran all ~600 frames of a video through it but it crashed while generating the point cloud. I re-ran it using 200 frames from the same video and the point cloud that came out is great. I don't know what do with the output now though because it saves a million files and I don't know what needs to go where to get something I can play with and edit in another program. It's the (whatever).0.ply file.
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Mar 9, 2012 18:33
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SpiDeR posted:Hmmm... so 3D printed "tripwires" are next up. Nah, not THAT kind of "holder". Just a holder as in "alternative to reaching into a pocket of loose shells to get another one". It saves some time and fumbling (for ~three~ shells' worth, anyway) in timed shooting events, and I made it myself so 
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Mar 9, 2012 20:46
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Mister Sinewave posted:Nah, not THAT kind of "holder". Just a holder as in "alternative to reaching into a pocket of loose shells to get another one". Now- prints are 'cheap' on a FDM 3d printer, could you not build something more akin to the links of belted ammo holding the rounds together so that you could have a fluid 'Fire, jam already in position linked round into magazine, work action, repeat' and just let the bits of plastic stopping your rounds from just dropping to the ground be destroyed in the process?
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Mar 9, 2012 21:27
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I was hoping someone here might have additional info not found on Veloso's blog, but it looks like no such luck. I'm still highly skeptical about it. If they are "close" to shipping kits, we should be able to see an estimated price, BOM, more photos, printed object characteristics, something to indicate that this is more than just vaporware... 
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Mar 9, 2012 21:31
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quote:gun stuff My Rhythmic Crotch posted:I was hoping someone here might have additional info not found on Veloso's blog, but it looks like no such luck. I'm still highly skeptical about it. If they are "close" to shipping kits, we should be able to see an estimated price, BOM, more photos, printed object characteristics, something to indicate that this is more than just vaporware... Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Mar 10, 2012 |
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Mar 10, 2012 00:34
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A guy at the local hackerspace (CCCKC) has a working resin printer. It's ugly as sin, but he's the one who printed the cathedral on thingiverse. Perhaps unsurprisingly, he's also wanting to sell resin.
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Mar 10, 2012 06:57
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Aurium posted:I'd like to note a few things. One, I have no idea about the relative capabilities of 100w vs 40w. Two, I don't really know typical pricing of a 40w cutter, the FSLaser may well be an excellent deal, or maybe not. Most of the money in the Lasersaur is not in the laser(only around $1200), so you won't save much money going to a weaker laser if you choose to make one. More power basically lets you cut thicker and tougher material. I think 100W even lets you cut thin sheet metal. Though speaking of lasers, I wonder if anyone's working on a DIY laser sintering printer. I've seen one project which produces roughly similar results by blowing hot air into sugar, but that would never be able to achieve usable resolution.
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Mar 10, 2012 20:06
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Cockmaster posted:More power basically lets you cut thicker and tougher material. I think 100W even lets you cut thin sheet metal. DIY sintering thus far has been terrible resolution (Though a good portion of that may be the lack of ability to acquire very fine powders)- adding the additional complication of 'and now we need to make spot temperatures high enough to melt metal' likely bring it outside of the current DIY logic. Even if a DIY could build one, the components would be so expensive as to make it cost almost as much as a professional one.
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Mar 10, 2012 22:05
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SLS doesn' have to be metal. I'm wondering if it's possible to use regular incandescent lamp and focus that down somehow for a lower cost than a laser based solution. Maybe using fiber optic cable to deliver the light.
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Mar 10, 2012 23:14
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My MakerBot Cupcake is going to be in a short film sometime soon!
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Mar 11, 2012 00:20
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Cockmaster posted:More power basically lets you cut thicker and tougher material. I think 100W even lets you cut thin sheet metal. Is 40w enough for say 1/8"-1/4" plywood/MDF/Acrylic? Here's a SLS wax printer. It looks more like a Selective Laser Melting than Sintering to me though. Either way same process and work cycle. More info here. peepsalot posted:SLS doesn' have to be metal. Did somebody say lens focused heat?
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Mar 11, 2012 04:13
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Aurium posted:Did somebody say lens focused heat?
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Mar 11, 2012 05:17
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peepsalot posted:Heh, i had a feeling someone might post that link. It's an interesting proof of concept, but the focus/resolution is worse than candyfab. I'm thinking something smaller scale, more precise and consistent. So you admit to being just being an enabler to my solar sintered fantasies do you? Anyway, instead of lenses and fiber guides, I wonder if you could use a DLP setup to focus and direct light to a single spot.
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Mar 11, 2012 07:40
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I don't like the idea of solar, even if it was better focused, simply for the fact that you can't use it at night(probably 95% of the time I spend printing) or when cloudy. Would love to see any kind of focused lamp cnc though.
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Mar 11, 2012 07:55
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The cool thing about solar is that you could make one of these things totally autonomous. Imagine setting one loose in the desert that drives around sintering an endless supply of parts. It just needs the ability to load and eject sand on its own!
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Mar 11, 2012 15:10
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Run it with an air based fluidic "brain," let it self-replicate and bam, silicon based life. I guess this is the best thread to ask this: does anyone have info about DIY 2D printing? I've found some interesting things where people have converted regular inkjets to flat bed versions, and if I remember I saw someone post in this thread about those engineering students making a basic open source desktop printer. I can't seem to find it again, it'd be useful to see their schematics and all that. The thing is, I'm interested in very large format flat beds -- like low-numbered B size. Seeing as I can't find anything that indicates you can "stretch" a regular printer to accept wider papers, I guess I'd have to start from scratch. Is there an overview somewhere that goes into the details of how printers are generally designed and work? I have this image of like some guys in the 70s or something laying the groundwork for how printers work today, and I want to see if I can get that.
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Mar 11, 2012 22:48
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Apparently inkjet printers use a piece of plastic with variable opacity so the print head can determine where it is along the sheet of paper. I bet if you replaced the rods, belt, and that plastic strip you could scale it as wide as you want.
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Mar 12, 2012 00:40
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Newsflash: Mendel90 source just released minutes ago  Edit: Also new slic3r 0.7.1 update today. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Mar 12, 2012 |
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Mar 12, 2012 02:35
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SniperWoreConverse posted:Run it with an air based fluidic "brain," let it self-replicate and bam, silicon based life. Did you see this DIY inkjet? Their thingiverse page has most of the documentation. I also like plotters, which scale up really nicely too. insta posted:Apparently inkjet printers use a piece of plastic with variable opacity so the print head can determine where it is along the sheet of paper. I bet if you replaced the rods, belt, and that plastic strip you could scale it as wide as you want. Some also use gray codes for positional sensing, which could be expanded easily as well. Back before optical sensors got nice an cheap, most were run by stepper motors.
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Mar 12, 2012 03:51
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Fast 3D printing with nanoscale precision quote:Printing three dimensional objects with very fine details using two-photon lithography can now be achieved orders of magnitude faster than similar devices in a breakthrough by Vienna University of Technology (TU Vienna) researchers.  two. photon. lithography.
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Mar 13, 2012 10:06
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