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SV650 is 11.5 and recommends 87.
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Mar 5, 2012 01:40
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:22 |
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 2004 FZ6. In another part of the manual it recommends 91 RON or higher so technically I think it could run on 86 then. Like I said, I've run regular since I got it and have never had it knock or ping or any detonation issues. Combining that with regular being the manufacturer recommendation, I'll stick to what I've been doing. That doesn't stop an argument at the gas pump every time I ride with my dad as he fills up with premium "just to be sure". What strikes me is the near 50/50 split of people who run higher vs. the manual recommended when you wade thru the bullshit on forums. This one has a poll and it's like 45/47. http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/36764-fuel-grade-regular-mid-range-premium.html Waste of money but half of the people still do it. Edit: forgot the forum link VVV It's a sentiment that pops up. Usually either some kind of "I feel it run better and I don't want worse gas" misunderstanding, or not knowing the difference between US octane ratings and other places. This quote is par for the course: LERecords;391453 posted:I have never used anything but premium.. i know that it doesnt make a difference, but i feel better about it.. dont think there is any difference, but i have never used anything else... and the bike is worth it :thumbup: nsaP fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 5, 2012 |
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Mar 5, 2012 02:04
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That's kind of interesting. I agree, if the manual calls for 87 I'd fill it with 87. Higher "just to be sure" is lost on me.
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Mar 5, 2012 02:06
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I run premium in my two strokes just to be sure because they can be prone to detonation, and it will kill them in short order. The four strokes? Regular unless the manufacturer recommends it.
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Mar 5, 2012 02:29
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It gets more complicated when you start talking about dodging ethanol. In addition to the usual seal issues, Triumph and Ducati plastic fuel tanks react poorly to ethanol and it's really difficult finding gas with as little of the stuff as possible.
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Mar 5, 2012 05:28
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Snowdens Secret posted:It gets more complicated when you start talking about dodging ethanol. In addition to the usual seal issues, Triumph and Ducati plastic fuel tanks react poorly to ethanol and it's really difficult finding gas with as little of the stuff as possible. All of the petrol stations where I live, their products ALL have ethanol in them. 
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Mar 5, 2012 05:55
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I feel lucky, because the supreme-grade gas at the nearest station specifically says "ethanol-free." AND it's usually 15-20 cents more expensive than regular, compared to other places around town that are 20-40 cents. If the gas costs 5% more, but I get 10-15% better fuel economy, I'm saving money, right?
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Mar 5, 2012 06:25
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I tried and failed to swap the tires on my TL1000S. I can't get the front wheel off- the fork clamps don't bite enough to keep it from slipping when I use a breaker bar, and it has so far been unresponsive to my apparently weak-rear end impact gun. This was after an overnight soak with PB Blaster. Any ideas? There's really no non-destructive way I can think of to grab the nut- it's round on the inside and outside. I guess you could pound a big rear end easy-out in and hold onto that. Or maybe I need a bigger air line- the last 20 feet of mine is that cheap 1/4" coiled stuff. I also found a spot of rust on the fork slider :-(
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Mar 5, 2012 08:44
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Can you take a picture of each side of the axle?
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Mar 5, 2012 18:01
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Have you tried a manual impact driver? Unless your pneumatic one is a serious heavy-duty model, you can often get more torque with a plain old handheld version and a sledgehammer. Plus it drives the socket onto the fastener so there's really no chance of it stripping.
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Mar 5, 2012 18:05
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 Or is this exactly what you're doing, and I just can't grasp the obvious? Dagen H fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Mar 5, 2012 |
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Mar 5, 2012 18:32
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Washed the bike, cleaned the chain, lubed some cables. Now it's raining and I'm reminded of why I never really wash my bike in the winter/fall/early spring.
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Mar 5, 2012 19:07
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This is the side that's slipping. The clamps here are torqued; the other side is loose. The big round bit is a nut into which the axle threads (you can see the end of the axle here). The middle finger is mine, and expresses my feelings. Bucephalus- yes that's what I'm doing. It's not like this is the first time I've taken the wheel off; it's just the first time it has stuck. It's kind of hilarious that they show the axle being tenderly removed with bare fingers, as it's spec'd for 72 ft-lbs. I might try pointing a heat gun at it tonight for a bit and see what I get.
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Mar 5, 2012 19:09
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Well poo poo. You may be on to something with the easy-out idea, it doesn't look like there's enough of an external flange to grab onto with anything.
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Mar 5, 2012 19:19
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I'd try carefully torqueing down the pinch bolts on that side a bit more. Also, I'd fire some PB plaster into the threads, in the hope that that'd help.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:31
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I lubed my throttle cables. After I got the bike back from the mechanic (carb clean/inspect/rejet) I noticed the throttle wasn't snapping shut... or much of anything relating to such a motion, really. I took off the assembly, used my shiny new cable lubing device, hit all the springs with some proper lubricant, and properly adjusted the length of the slack. Now the bike's throttle responds like it just rolled off the showroom floor. This bike's coming along.  Now I just need the lock set and chain guard from Z3n then I'm gonna install my rearset risers and the bike is pretty much 99% mechanically sound. 
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Mar 6, 2012 00:28
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I took the carb bodies out of the Pine-Sol they'd been soaking in for the last 24 hours. Holy poo poo! That stuff really, really works. All of the caked-on grease and oil and soot scrubbed off with a toothbrush like nothing. Highly recommended if you have parts to clean and need a cheap degreaser. I used 1 part pine-sol to 2 parts water. Also, since cleaning the outside of the carb bodies was the last thing I needed to do, I put the carbs back together. Adjusted the float height, etc. They seem pretty clean and solid now -- here's to hoping that later this week I'll be able to get the bike to wake up for the first time in more than thirty years... Finally, I started the electrolytic cleaning of the gas tank. Fill it up with sodium carbonate solution, insert coat hanger electrode, apply current. I'm not sure what is going on inside, exactly, but the surface of the water is slowly turning scummy and rusty so that's a good sign. Tomorrow: flush old oil that's been dissolving in sea foam for a week and put new stuff in in preparation for starting attempts.
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Mar 7, 2012 03:29
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Z3n posted:I'd try carefully torqueing down the pinch bolts on that side a bit more. It's been soaking since saturday, which probably helped the final step of successful removal, which was... I got an internal pipe wrench at Lowe's this evening. It's like a toothed cam on a .5" hex key (just GIS it and you'll see). It was too small to work on its own, but some grinder magic on a .5" piece of hardened steel rod (probably an old milling bit from a box of yard sale crap) made a shim that allowed the wrench's cam to bite. So all I need now is a free hour to get to the cheap tire changer in San Jose. BARF says it's the 76 station on Saratoga @ Moorpark.
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Mar 7, 2012 08:04
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Where are you at? Bring them by my place and we'll change them here.
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Mar 7, 2012 18:09
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Just got off the phone with a guy on CL. He'll be bringing me a set of DRZ dirt wheels with tires and a desert tank. I have to swap the rotors on the dirt wheels to SM rotors right? Anyone have any idea how much that's going to cost me? I'd really like to avoid swapping the rotors off of my SM wheels back and forth, but this spent most of my "bike" cash for the month.
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Mar 7, 2012 20:41
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Just got off the phone with a guy on CL. He'll be bringing me a set of DRZ dirt wheels with tires and a desert tank. I have to swap the rotors on the dirt wheels to SM rotors right? Anyone have any idea how much that's going to cost me? I'd really like to avoid swapping the rotors off of my SM wheels back and forth, but this spent most of my "bike" cash for the month. http://www.bikebandit.com/brake-rotors/n1011?m=12818 Depends how much you want to make it cost.
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Mar 7, 2012 20:48
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Just got off the phone with a guy on CL. He'll be bringing me a set of DRZ dirt wheels with tires and a desert tank. I have to swap the rotors on the dirt wheels to SM rotors right? Anyone have any idea how much that's going to cost me? I'd really like to avoid swapping the rotors off of my SM wheels back and forth, but this spent most of my "bike" cash for the month. Sounds like the ideal time to buy a bigger front rotor for your sumo wheel.
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Mar 7, 2012 21:21
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SaNChEzZ posted:http://www.bikebandit.com/brake-rotors/n1011?m=12818 http://www.bikebandit.com/braking-race-rotor?m=12818 That seems waaaaaaaay too cheap for what it is
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Mar 7, 2012 21:26
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Olde Weird Tip posted:http://www.bikebandit.com/braking-race-rotor?m=12818 For around the same price speed addict cycles does an EBC 320mm rotor with adapter for the stock caliper. That's what I'd do, probably. Although the stock SM brake is way overkill offroad.
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Mar 7, 2012 21:59
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Z3n posted:For around the same price speed addict cycles does an EBC 320mm rotor with adapter for the stock caliper. That's what I'd do, probably. Although the stock SM brake is way overkill offroad. I can't seem to find it on their site. Any chance you could link me, or do I need to call them?
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Mar 7, 2012 22:23
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I can't seem to find it on their site. Any chance you could link me, or do I need to call them? Call or send an email.
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Mar 8, 2012 00:54
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Z3n posted:Call or send an email. Will do Muchas Gracias.
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Mar 8, 2012 01:02
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This past weekend I revised my Van Halen-esque stripey job on the mighty ZX10. The original fluorescent yellow began fading immediately upon exposure to the sun. These stripes are done with white and black 3M di-noc carbon fiber vinyl, which has a glossy CF texture. Because I had plenty of the material, I also completely covered the black plastic bodywork (the bit under the seat/tank, the hugger, and the "<" shaped piece) with black CF vinyl. Except for a couple of flaws (the material is hard to work with on curves) it looks pretty good up-close. 
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Mar 8, 2012 04:52
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Z3n posted:Where are you at? Bring them by my place and we'll change them here. San Jose, Willow Glen specifically. Are you in the neighborhood? I assume you have a changer? GMail me at my username and hopefully we can set something up.
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Mar 8, 2012 07:51
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AnnoyBot posted:San Jose, Willow Glen specifically. Are you in the neighborhood? Aww, crap, that's pretty far from me. You're probably better off going to the cheap place on gas alone...I'm up in the east Oakland area.
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Mar 9, 2012 00:33
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I got rid of the useless "handguards" and installed some cheap led turn signals to the piss cup brackets. I also bought a cheap bar end mirror since the old mirrors were attached to the handguards. But now I'm having a fast flash issue even though the factory signals were led too. There must have been a heavy duty resistor in the old signal assembly. Also, my check engine light is now on. I'm guessing it has to do with the reduced resistance of the new signals.    
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Mar 9, 2012 01:16
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I didn't exactly do this in a day, but... I removed the engine/transmission/kickstand/rear wheel assembly from a Vento Triton R4 because everything minus the case halves is getting replaced. I don't trust Chinese parts much and this gives me license to go hog wild with my big bore kit.  After removing the oil pump, I had to scrape off a ton of grease from what the factory shot in there to lubricate it. I also had to scrape out a bunch of sludge from where the oil pump and possibly the crank seal leaked.  Here are the case halves all nice and clean. It took a lot of Simple Green to remove the road grime, sludge, gasket adhesive and a super thick layer of drive belt residue on the transmission side.  I triple-bagged the new reinforced crank and threw it in the fridge overnight. I then heated the bearings in the oven and dropped them on the cold crank for an easy fit.  A comparison of the stock crank and bearings versus the new assembly. What can't be seen is the polymer cage that the new bearings have.  And that's where I had to stop before work today. Edited to replace misused word. Rugoberta Munchu fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 04:01
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M4rg4r1ne posted:When I saw this picture I thought that was a vehicle. Now I'm sad that it isn't.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:43
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The intent is to eventually attach that driveline to that frame. But I'll need a top tube and new mounting bracket at the very least. Though I do kinda want to change the decal to say "PANDA EXPRESS" in anticipation for the Chinese scoot swap.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:46
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Whoa holy poo poo a GY6 (right?) (e: nvm, 2-stroke 50?) into a Honda Express? That is awesome. I've never seen it before, is that common? I hope that Express has a good front brake 'cause that thing is gonna be quick.
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Mar 9, 2012 04:58
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1e40qmb, otherwise known as the Chinese Minarelli 2-stroke. I'll be using the Vento's front end on it as well, since it also has a disc brake. I have yet to see if I'll need to just weld the scooter steering tube to it or if I can use the original. With the big bore and pipe (and other stuff) I have for it, it should hit 55 MPH at least. I'll port it after I make sure everything runs correctly. Then when it's all tuned, I'll turn my attention to actually fiddling with the frame to swap it all over.
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Mar 9, 2012 05:12
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M4rg4r1ne posted:
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Mar 9, 2012 05:44
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Or, to put it in a more uncool way, the same stuff that IKEA makes its spatulas out of.
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Mar 9, 2012 05:47
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I only say this because I'm a bearing geek. Please make bearings cool and fancy.
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Mar 9, 2012 06:10
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:22 |
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slidebite posted:Polyamide glass reinforced
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Mar 9, 2012 06:24
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