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Have you replaced any of the pressure hoses going to/coming from the intercooler? It sounds like you might have a boost leak.
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Mar 9, 2012 00:44
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I thought it might be a boost leak too, which is why I replaced the other vacuum lines. The intercooler hoses look pretty ok, though. And I actually get a lot of boost according to the vague boost gauge.
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Mar 9, 2012 02:14
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Random as in across multiple cylinders, or intermittently occurring on one cylinder? No other codes?
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Mar 9, 2012 05:07
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last time it threw the CEL it was for a misfire in #2. I cleared it, but its back so i need to check it again. Last time i checked the code, after it did it the car died. It acted like it had a dead battery and had to be jumped. So, ive been avoiding it.. ill check it again tomorrow. and random as in itll misfire here and there when warm. sometimes at idle, sometimes while cruising. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 06:49
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Captain obvious chiming in here - have you changed the fuel filter? Failing that I'd look into cleaning the injectors. (it is injected right? )
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Mar 9, 2012 07:13
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I have not changed the fuel filter  Thats next on my list, im going to try and find one tomorrow. I actually forgot about it till now. This car had a lot of its maintenance put off, so Ive been going through it doing the whole 'stage zero' thing. But, yeah, fuel filter. And it is injected.. wouldnt running seafoam through the intake clean the injectors? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 08:37
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hedgegnome posted:I have not changed the fuel filter No. To clean the injectors, you'd need to put the Seafoam in your gas tank. Techron might be a better choice for that, though.
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Mar 9, 2012 08:50
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On that subject, what's the uk equivalent of seafoam? Also a good penetrant-type chemical recommendation if someone has one.
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Mar 9, 2012 09:06
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The usual AI recommendation for penetrating oil is half and half ATF/acetone.
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Mar 9, 2012 14:42
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zundfolge posted:No. To clean the injectors, you'd need to put the Seafoam in your gas tank. Techron might be a better choice for that, though. Ah, right. Well, I ran a can through the tank, too.
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Mar 9, 2012 19:17
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My brother wants a cheap car and we might go look at an '89 240 DL Wagon with 192k miles and a 5 speed. The pictures make it look like the car's in pretty good condition. What should I look for and what questions should I ask if I go see it? Thanks.
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Mar 10, 2012 06:35
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The major issues to look out for in a 240 are rust, leaks and wiring hackjobs in the engine compartment, clunking sounds from the suspension, and worn-out seats and interior parts. If it's like most surviving 240s, deferred maintenance will abound, and you'll have to put some time and elbow grease into undoing that, but once you get over that hump, it'll go forever if you take care of the basics.
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Mar 10, 2012 07:44
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Ok, so I'm being told by my mechanic that I've probably got a head gasket leak and that a new motor is mostly likely going to be the solution. He called around and found a motor without it's turbo at 100k miles for $1600. However, my problem is this... I'm a teacher at a low income school and barely make enough to cover my own bills month to month, so I'm reaching out to the volvo community looking to see if there is a low mileage whiteblock out there that can be shipped to New Mexico for less than what my mechanic was able to find for. It would be going into a 98 V70R which I got several years ago from a Toyota dealer for a good price and have enjoyed ever since. I'd rather not have to sell the car for a cheap junker, but +2k for repairs is getting close to breaking the bank on what I make right now. If anyone has a good reputable lead that I can follow please message me and I'll contact you with details. I have a similar post going on over at TBricks, some of the guys over there told me that I might be able to get away with just a new head, based on googling that's about $650 for the head plus fluids/labor..so probably about $1k instead. Car goons, please advise?
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Mar 10, 2012 08:11
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Why would you need a new engine instead of just replacing the head gasket?
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Mar 10, 2012 08:46
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There may be evidence of warping without taking it apart if it's bad enough. A shame you had to ask on Friday night, Oxphocker, I'll have a look in the East Coast salvage yards on Monday morning. Freight charges will probably run you $500+ from anywhere, though, so a local salvage yard would be better if anyone has one. Do you have some kind of a backup ride that'll let that the V70 be down for any length of time?
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Mar 10, 2012 09:06
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Does a stock 89 Volvo rear end have posi?
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Mar 10, 2012 16:15
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My mechanic was under the impression that if it's an AL block, then it's likely to have warped and would probably be a better idea to just replace the engine entirely. The guys over on TBricks say that it's an alloy block and rarely warps, so I can probably get away with a head instead. It's the only car I've got...I'm going to have to rent a car if I'm going anywhere other than local cause I don't know how much time I've got. It's driving just fine except for a few small clues that something might be wrong (a little bit of smoke when first starting the car and when under load going up a hill, and the foamy tan substance on the dipstick that indicates water/coolant in the oil.) Other than that, the car runs just fine...so I'm guessing that if there is a leak it is very small. I just noticed some of these symptoms about three weeks ago and didn't think too much of it except for the oil. We're going to replace the PCV system, knock sensors, and do an oil change to see if there are any other culprits other than a head gasket. As for sourcing locally, I highly doubt it...this area of the southwest doesn't have a lot of volvos around. Best bet would be the midwest or pacific northwest probably. There is only two volvo dealers in the whole state and I've only seen four volvos in town and I've lived here two years. This area is mostly trucks/SUVs.
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Mar 10, 2012 16:24
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Is there ever such thing as a pure aluminum block? Pretty sure they're all alloys  The problem with a headgasket that's failed the way yours has (water in the oil) is that it ruins the oil - and if you continue driving it that way, you will damage the bottom end of the engine and then it's really new engine time. I have no idea what the likelihood is for that thing to have warped, but the only way to check for sure is to pull the head.
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Mar 10, 2012 17:47
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Lord Gaga posted:Does a stock 89 Volvo rear end have posi? Nope. You can swap in a G80 locking diff from a 740 or 940 turbo, but most people who put down serious power in an RWD Volvo end up swapping to a Ford 8.8. At the end of the day, the stock rear end is still just a Dana 30, and running V8-type power through it (especially if you're going to be launching it) doesn't end well. As for your HG, Oxphocker, if the car hasn't overheated, I doubt anything has warped. Since you have to take the head off anyway, just get it checked for straightness if/when you get the gasket done. The whiteblock heads are sort of delicate in that regard, but you're probably fine if the temp needle hasn't gone into the red. Based on the suggestions from Turbobricks, I'd correct the PCV system first. I would also recommend that you not use any stop-leak products if you plan to keep the car for any length of time.
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Mar 10, 2012 20:57
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zundfolge posted:As for your HG, Oxphocker, if the car hasn't overheated, I doubt anything has warped. Since you have to take the head off anyway, just get it checked for straightness if/when you get the gasket done. The whiteblock heads are sort of delicate in that regard, but you're probably fine if the temp needle hasn't gone into the red. The car has never overheated to my knowledge and even now I'm not getting any odd temp spikes. Really the ONLY symptoms are a bit of blue smoke when it's under load going uphill and the water/coolant in the oil.
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Mar 10, 2012 21:05
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zundfolge posted:Nope. You can swap in a G80 locking diff from a 740 or 940 turbo, but most people who put down serious power in an RWD Volvo end up swapping to a Ford 8.8. At the end of the day, the stock rear end is still just a Dana 30, and running V8-type power through it (especially if you're going to be launching it) doesn't end well. I am swapping in the brakes and IRS from a 93 Mark VIII with 3.73s and posi eventually. I was hoping to get a couple hundred miles and maybe a drift event or two with the 4.6 DOHC on the stock rear first but maybe not. Think if I leave some crappy tires on it it might last or is it a heat is the enemy too type situation?
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Mar 10, 2012 22:41
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Oxphocker posted:The car has never overheated to my knowledge and even now I'm not getting any odd temp spikes. Really the ONLY symptoms are a bit of blue smoke when it's under load going uphill and the water/coolant in the oil. Deal with it ASAP if possible, as noted before, you're driving a time bomb thanks to the coolant and oil mixing. Pieces of your engine like the crankshaft bearings depend on an oil film between the moving parts; they'll be ruined (and total the engine) if the viscosity craps out.
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Mar 10, 2012 23:11
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I know I haven't been posting in here in over a year (once you start saving for a wedding, you are not allowed gearhead expenses) but I have very sad news.  I'm fine. Bruised kneecaps and hurt ego.
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Mar 10, 2012 23:36
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All cars should be required to make frowny faces after a front end collision.
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Mar 10, 2012 23:39
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Ah, poo poo. That was a nice car-glad it did its job and kept you OK. Thinking about buying it back and parting it, or are you done with it?
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Mar 10, 2012 23:56
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zundfolge posted:Ah, poo poo. That was a nice car-glad it did its job and kept you OK. Oh. There are brand new parts I'm reclaiming. I have to prolly put up a good fight to get a good totalled value out of it. I want anything connecting with turbo + exhaust + gauges + anything else I think of. I'm already searching for another. I loved the GLT's. Best 240 I ever owned. Lloyd, are you a CO man? Someone already saw my IPD classified wanted ad and responded with an '83 245GLT, any chance you know it? I'm basically stalking Ithaca, NY and Portland, OR's CL ads now. Autotrader, Cars.com, and ebay all have permanent tabs on my Opera browser. I'm talking to a brickboard guy about an '89 m47 with intact service records (original owner as well. I have my irons in the fire. Crispulus fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Mar 11, 2012 |
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Mar 11, 2012 00:28
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I don't really know any of the local 240 guys. A couple of the club guys drive them but they're not selling, and they're very heavily modded cars anyway so I wouldn't recommend a buy if it did happen to be one of them. If you had some cash and wanted something really special, I'd suggest you take a look at my dad's 262 Bertone in Portland. It's cosmetically near perfect and it has a B230FT and M41 swap from a 7 series. The only problem is he wants like 8 grand for it, and he would never go under 6. If I had the storage space I'd have bought it already myself, just because it's gangster. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Mar 11, 2012 |
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Mar 11, 2012 06:01
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I have two likely interests now. A VA 1989 DL with the m47. Original owner. Brickboard guy. Scanned and sent me full service history in PDF format. Asking 2,800. About 110k miles. Updated LH. - if I go with this I'd like to transfer any turbo piping, exhaust, et cetera. How do-able is adding the Garret Turbo set up to a B230F LH system? - I know the m47 is relatively weak but could it stand up to the turbo and cat delete from my rescued parts? -I'd also have to put a tach in it because Volvo is weird about DL's and tachs. The other interest is the 1983 GLT with the m46 and '84.5 IC in CO. 149k. - I like this because I'm more familar with the B2.1FT and I would only have to transfer over my rescued exhaust (cat delete). Asking 2,200. I'd have to ship the CO car and I'd be willing to drive the VA car back to me. I'd like to add cruise assist and an LSD to either model, how do-able is cruise assist? My ideal car would be; -Wagon -RWD/AWD. -Third row seat. -Stick. -Turbo. -Fog lamps. -LSD -Roof rack. -Cruise assist. -Crank moonroof. That's a tall list and for Volvo I'd have to add most of that myself. It's pretty much Audi/Suburu/1980's Volvos/R Volvos if I want those options but... yeah... I need another 245 soon. Any thoughts my what I'd have to do to these wagons? Crispulus fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Mar 11, 2012 |
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Mar 11, 2012 17:57
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Wow, that looks like a pretty solid crash. What'd you hit and how fast was the collision? It's been a while since I saw a 240 front end that askew. (Sorry to see a nice Volvo give it's life, but that's what they're made for. Glad you're okay.)
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Mar 11, 2012 20:47
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Ether Frenzy posted:Wow, that looks like a pretty solid crash. What'd you hit and how fast was the collision? It's been a while since I saw a 240 front end that askew. Median. Prolly 55. I was intentionally going ten under as well. I didn't expect the black ice. Never once I had control on the bypass. Quick Q. They appraised my brick about 2,200 USD. That's the price that the CO GLT is going to be sold to me. My deductible is set at a 1,000 USD (stupid, I know...). I was thinking about a private appraiser. I made a call and I'd be about 400 USD for one company. Is there one that is lower, or is this about par? (they charge for travel), and would it be even worth it? Lloyd, is there a mechanic you'd recommend in the Denver area for a pre-purchase inspection? I thinking on going with the GLT. Thanks!
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Mar 13, 2012 00:56
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I recommend Volvo Specialists if they're anywhere near downtown, the head of the Rocky Mountain chapter of VCOA is the service writer/GM there. He's a good friend of mine and they're pretty straight up, but they'll charge you $100 for the inspection. In truth most of the Volvo shops around here are pretty good, I don't know of any with a real bad rep.
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Mar 13, 2012 07:48
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I really want to buy a used S60 - something in the last few years with around 50K miles on it. My main motivations are I absolutely love the way they look, I think Volvos are "safer" than comparable cars, and I was shocked to find that S60's were in the same price ranged as similarly used Camrys and Accords. Is there anything major or problematicto be aware of in the Volvo world these days? I had a late-eighties 240 back in college that I loved to death and drove into the ground. Is there anything surprising/awful/time bomb-esque about recent S60's?
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Mar 13, 2012 21:02
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God, I love the short rear end on the new S60s. Here's hoping they age well so I can have one in 15 years on the cheap for my midlife crisis. Who am I kidding, it's going to be a matte black P1800ES with a wine leather interior and an LSX under the hood.
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Mar 13, 2012 21:13
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Depends how old the S60 is but my parents have a 53 plate (late 2003) & the front ball joints (oil-filled jobbies) are a known weak point. There is a Police-spec upgrade with massive reinforce plates on the chassis rails & massive Stainless Steel ball joints, but there may be an insurance issue after having the mod done. Other than that, piss-weak AC that costs thousands to repair but that's nothing unique to the S60. My favourite looking Volvo for years, I want to buy my parents one when my mum admits it's too big for her.
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Mar 13, 2012 21:49
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Early ('01-'02) automatic S60s had a transmission programming "feature" where the transmission would shift into neutral when the car came to a stop to improve fuel economy. The problem with this is that the transmission often wouldn't shift back into gear fast enough when the accelerator was depressed, resulting in slip and excessive transmission wear. Volvo released a software update that deleted the feature, but not all S60/V70s got it-I believe it was a voluntary update. If the transmission flares or slips, or if the car rolls backward on a hill while stopped, I'd pass-that's a pretty sure sign that the update hasn't been applied. The other big issues with the S60/V70 models are buggy electronics and a rather voracious appetite for suspension components. Speaking of transmissions, my family has a '95 850 automatic that hasn't had a fluid change in at least 100K miles. It shifts fine, but the fluid on the dipstick is pretty brown, and it would probably benefit from a change. If I just flush fluid from the cooler feed line that goes to the radiator and add new fluid, am I risking a dead transmission soon after, or is that only a concern with a pressure flush that might dislodge impurities?
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Mar 13, 2012 23:16
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Platinum is such a pretty color.   Replacement heater core is going in this weekend.
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Mar 14, 2012 02:22
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Hey folks, can I join? Just bought my first Volvo and my first car with manual transmission.    It's a 1982 245 DL with the M46 4spd + electric overdrive. It has the most forgiving clutch I've ever driven. It came with a Haynes manual, 2 extra studded snow tires, and some spare parts. It has only done about 183,000 miles on it and is mechanically so sound it was astonishing. I'm starting to see why people love these cars. The interior needs a little work. The front seats are ripped, the dash is cracked, and the transmission's overdrive switch doesn't work. The fix for that? Previous owner pulled the wires out to the side and you tap them together. You can see the red wires poking out in the interior shot. It has a few dents in the back of it, and the badges and some bumper stickers were ripped off. I have some replacement badges I'll put on. All in all, it's an incredibly solid car for a first project car. Can't wait to start working on her to bring her to glory! 
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Mar 14, 2012 02:38
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Seeing as how there's nothing in the OP regarding this (to be added), have any problems arisen with the latest generation of V50s? I'm tired of driving a GTI around with my 80 lb dog in shotgun and having to take out the seats and use an air compressor on the interior biweekly and want something with hatch space he can fit in. Also, I can't seem to find one in manual for the life of me. Do they exist?
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Mar 14, 2012 16:48
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Read the V50 forums at swedespeed.com to get a feel for common problems, and maybe check out 30forty50.com as well. Here's a good example though, they seem to be pretty well sorted cars. http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?170492-Looking-at-buying-a-2005-S40-T5 Also the first thread in that forum that's stickied is pretty info-packed. Yes they did come in a manual, 6 speed to boot. The tranny is called the M66 so when you read a thread if they say that then they're talking about manual transmission. They're not common but they're out there.
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Mar 14, 2012 17:24
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Anecdotally, nothing interesting at all has happened in the first ~80,000 miles of the one my in-laws own.
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Mar 14, 2012 17:26
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