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How do yall store/organize your drill bits? I'm thinking of building a box (I am a very amateur woodworker but I think I could make a box) with a wooden insert - drill holes and drop each bit into its hole. Any better ideas? Portable (or at least not built-in) is best, I gotta pack up all my tools and move in a couple of months.
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Mar 12, 2012 01:58
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VikingKitten posted:How do yall store/organize your drill bits? You could just buy a case to keep your bits in: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2456/=gmiemt If you built one out of wood, you might want to drill each hole slightly larger than the bit it will be holding. If the holes are drilled to the exact size of the bits, in theory, the seasonal expansion/contraction of wood might cause it to bind up on the bits. In reality, I don't know if that actually happens. Just to be on the safe side, I used a sheet of HDPE when I made a thing to hold my router bits. I'd still recommend just spending $10-$35 and buying a case, for no other reason than that all the holes are labeled.
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Mar 12, 2012 05:56
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nwin posted:wires and outlets have been tested...no power found in the third outlets...is this house going to burn to the ground soon? Burn down? Probably not. Grounding is only for user safety, equipment safety and sometimes to suppress EMI. The only thing you could can plug into a 3-prong outlet that would actually require grounding is a 10+ year old surge suppressor. The old ones actually needed the ground to suppress. The newer ones use both the neutral and ground.
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Mar 12, 2012 20:34
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SkunkDuster posted:You could just buy a case to keep your bits in: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2456/=gmiemt Yeah, but I've got multiples of some sizes, a couple of big spade bits, a couple of drill and tap metal bits, a dowel drill thing, just a random collection of bought-as-needed crap. Using hdpe is a good idea, thanks!
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Mar 12, 2012 22:13
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kid sinister posted:Burn down? Probably not. Grounding is only for user safety, equipment safety and sometimes to suppress EMI. The only thing you could can plug into a 3-prong outlet that would actually require grounding is a 10+ year old surge suppressor. The old ones actually needed the ground to suppress. The newer ones use both the neutral and ground.
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Mar 12, 2012 22:22
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nwin posted:ok so on that ceiling fan, would you still put an extension on the house ground cable from the ceiling or not bother since there's no power going to it? Just so you're clear, there should never be power on the ground. You should be checking for continuity between the neutral and the ground. If it exists, then yes, extend the ground. Otherwise, leave it alone.
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Mar 13, 2012 00:19
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VikingKitten posted:Yeah, but I've got multiples of some sizes, a couple of big spade bits, a couple of drill and tap metal bits, a dowel drill thing, just a random collection of bought-as-needed crap. Using hdpe is a good idea, thanks! I just got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Huot-Wire-Gauge-Drill-Dispenser/dp/B002N2XK2S/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1331595408&sr=8-16 Nice little thing. It's pretty solid. Only problem is the holders are a little short, so anything over 3/8" or so doesn't fit. There's space at the rear of each drawer for larger bits, but you can't put them in order.
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Mar 13, 2012 00:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Just so you're clear, there should never be power on the ground. You should be checking for continuity between the neutral and the ground. If it exists, then yes, extend the ground. Otherwise, leave it alone.
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Mar 13, 2012 02:37
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Was about to post a thread, but figured I'd shoot in here first: I need to learn me some guttering. I ripped a section of grass out beside my house for a veggie garden, but the first rain pretty much wiped out the few things I had already planted, as the drip line just pounded the little poor tomato bastards. I knew there'd be some issues but I was totally clueless how bad it was. I was already planning on guttering (eventually), but this just got bumped a few spots up on the improvement list. I'm doing the requisite googling, but a few questions: 1. Some website, breaking down the aluminum or vinyl choice (probably one of which I'll go with) said something about aluminum being higher maintenance. Is that a bunch of poo poo? What besides normal cleaning/obstruction removal could need maintaining? 2. It's about 200 linear feet all told, with 6-7 downspout locations for the whole job. I'm doing 3 sides of my house (the back patio will be covered within a year), there are no trees around me at all (like within a half-mile), so I'm not worried about pine straw/leaf litter. Do I really need a guard on top? I assumed not, but figured I'd ask. 3. I'm pretty much trying to educate myself on the following choices: Aluminum vs. vinyl If vinyl, buying a slip-together vs. paying someone to come put in seamless Thoughts/stories/advice?
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Mar 13, 2012 05:10
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NickNails posted:I just got one of these: Oh that's pretty clever!
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Mar 13, 2012 06:11
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GD_American posted:Was about to post a thread, but figured I'd shoot in here first: I need to learn me some guttering. Aluminum. Vinyl will wind up looking like poo poo and will crack as it ages and the UV brittles it up. I had my gutters replaced on my house (white aluminum) around 1996 and they look great. I had them done seamless - a truck pulls up with a roll of aluminum and a form, and they roll out the exact length you need & install it. It is the more expensive option. My house is 55' long and I had them pitch it so it drained only at the front. (I had groundwater issues which turned out to have nothing to do with leaky gutters...) If the roof gable line is low enough, it's easy to do yourself, much easier with two people, and a lot cheaper. Use a snap line or string to mark the fascia for your pitch. I did my garage by myself in 2004, using self-tapping screw-in anchors every 2'-4' depending on your typical winter snow load. Just be certain to use the sealant between sections or they will leak at the seams. I would advise against screens/guards or Gutter Helmet. Stuff will get through the former and the latter is hideously expensive & debris still gets in there. It's hard as hell to clean out blockages with them on. Just hose out your gutters every couple of years. Even with no nearby trees, you'll be amazed at how much dirt & debris & plant matter will wind up in there anyway. Keep 'em clean, especially in the summer, as they are the #1 breeding ground for mosquitoes. In the short run, consider installing just a couple sections of gutter over your vegetable garden & leave the ends open. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Mar 13, 2012 |
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Mar 13, 2012 16:40
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I'd like to install a mail slot in my garage door (like every other house on my block). How can I do this? As far as I can tell, the outside material is aluminum with foam material inside. I imagine I could get a jigsaw and go at it after measuring what needs to be cut? Any tips/leads on a good mail slot? The one I have now sucks because rain gets in very easily, destroying anything that comes in. I tried researching online but apparently my Google skills suck right now.
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Mar 13, 2012 18:21
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We went with this mail slot. It's hinged along the long edge, so it can be mounted vertically or horizontally. I haven't gotten around to installing it yet because I'm really apprehensive of cutting a hole in the side of my house.
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Mar 13, 2012 19:49
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I managed to score a dryer, and would like to mount it to the wall in my garage. Problem is the dryer is not wall mountable, no bracket or anything. If I put the dryer on the floor it will bring clutter up to unacceptable levels. What are my options for securing the dryer in the intended mounting space? The space is about 100mm wider than the dryer. It is in a corner, one side I have cinderblock wall and on the other studded drywall. Below lies a sink, and above is a high ceiling (no height restriction really). I was thinking of making a large shelf for the dryer to sit on. With support timber anchored to the cinderblock wall with dynabolts, and another support screwed into the stud on the other wall. A thick sheet of ply fixed on top these supports to act as the shelf. Due to the corner mounting, one corner of the shelf will be without support, which would be no big deal except its a heavy object im putting up there. I am a DIY idiot, so please help me out by tearing my idea to shreds and offering suggestions.
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Mar 15, 2012 01:36
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That'll work. How high off of the floor do you intend to mount it? Or are all of the controls on the front?
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Mar 15, 2012 01:43
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Ill need to do some measuring when I get home, but I'd estimate mounting about 1.6 metres above the floor, high enough to not obstruct use of the sink and low enough for my wife to be able to reach the controls  She might need a stool though since the dryer is 850mm high and all the controls are near the top on the front.
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Mar 15, 2012 01:52
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They're just wired in; pull the controls, extend the wiring, and mount them on the side of the dryer or on the wall next to it. Cover the hole where the controls were. Bonus points if the work you've done is reversible later. \/\/\/\/ That's a really good point, if it's not on the floor it needs to be secured at all 8 corners (or at least really over-secured at 6, the 4 on the bottom and the back top 2), since tipping would be much more catastrophic. All the materials you use to build the frame will be subjected to constant vibration and torquing. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 04:04
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Keep in mind the dryer is not just a heavy object. It's a heavy object with a fast, heavy rotational mass inside. Vibration is an issue, so over-build.
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Mar 15, 2012 04:12
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dur posted:Anyway you can get this part unscrewed? A 5/8 spark plug socket fit, but it took a while since I only had about 2 clicks worth of room. It's off though and the new one is installed.
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Mar 15, 2012 17:37
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Anyone know about the thing where you hang some white/light-coloured canvas in front of, and slightly separated from, the sun-facing wall (or roof) of your house to keep your house cooler in the summer? Kind of like having a shade trellis but  It's considered a "green home improvement," a.k.a. a really obvious cheap trick to cool your house for nearly free. I'm looking for implementation tips (e.g. how to design it to not go crazy on a windy day). I've only seen such a thing twice before in person, and it had a rigid bar at the top and bottom, and both bars were tied down. I couldn't see much else - what's the best material, should I cut wind-holes in it, what's the max size of each "curtain" on a big wall before it gets too wind-prone, etc. Any help?
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Mar 16, 2012 19:50
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I have a kitchen emergency: The wall is a horrible poured concrete jobby with the plasterboard attached to vertical batons. The cabinets are mounted to this baton(pictured) which is screwed to the vertical batons. As you can see from the pic the baton is coming away from the wall. I've unloaded them for now but I need a better fixing method asap, any suggestions?
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Mar 16, 2012 21:55
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Cakefool posted:I have a kitchen emergency:
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Mar 16, 2012 22:30
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grover posted:You could use a concrete screw to fasten it through the furring strip and straight into the concrete. If it's not gripping, there is a special formula of epoxy made for concrete work. And if concrete screws like Tapcon don't work, there are all kinds of fasteners and anchors for attaching poo poo to masonry: lag shields, sleeve anchors, wedge anchors, split anchors, etc. Just be sure to take into account the thickness of your mounting board and the distance from the concrete to the wall face when buying your anchors, and if your new anchors have to be flush mounted so that the cabinet will fit back onto the mounting board. Drilling into masonry requires masonry bits. Use a low drill speed: they grind holes, they don't cut holes.
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Mar 16, 2012 23:43
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Unfortunately the concrete is horrible stuff - it's got a lot of pebbles & not a lot of binder - drilling into it produces a shower of pebbles & a hole in the wrong place after burning through 3 masonry bits.
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Mar 17, 2012 00:09
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You shouldn't be burning through those bits. Are you drilling slowly? They are made for concrete, but if you force it they won't work very well.
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Mar 17, 2012 00:17
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It helps tremendously if you have a hammer drill.
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Mar 17, 2012 00:36
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GD_American posted:It helps tremendously if you have a hammer drill. After trying to drill a few holes in concrete I bought an inexpensive hammer drill, literally 10x quicker and easier. Cakefool posted:The wall is a horrible poured concrete jobby with the plasterboard attached to vertical batons. The cabinets are mounted to this baton(pictured) which is screwed to the vertical batons. Can you just run deck screws through the cabinet/horizontal baton and into the vertical? From the picture it looks glued to the wall, if so, that is crazy.
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Mar 17, 2012 07:48
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PainterofCrap posted:Aluminum. Vinyl will wind up looking like poo poo and will crack as it ages and the UV brittles it up. I appreciate this- waiting on a buddy of my dad's (who does it for a living) to give me a quote.
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Mar 17, 2012 15:27
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para posted:Yup, that worked! Thanks.  These hoses are short and have what appears to be some kind of crimped or compressed ends that don't screw off. The part I am holding is the 5/8" end that I stripped, and the back is a push/pull valve that the hose terminates at. I either need to attach a new end or replace the hose going to the valve entirely. I am close to calling a plumber to fix my screw up but I'd really like to get it going myself. Any thoughts? Am I in too deep and should bring in someone with experience or is this easier than it looks?
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Mar 17, 2012 20:07
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Take it completely off, and to any hardware store. They're about $8. VV OK, well, that's something completely different... a nylon fitting attached to the inlet? VV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 17, 2012 |
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Mar 17, 2012 22:57
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PainterofCrap posted:Take it completely off, and to any hardware store. They're about $8. Top down view of the valve. 
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Mar 17, 2012 23:02
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OK a quick Google shows that the valve is held on to the PVC coming through the wall with a compression fitting. You would have to shut off the supply to this room, or possibly the whole house, remove the valve/fitting, and go get another. This site should show you how: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Plumbing/Plumbing-Skills/how-to-use-cpvc-plastic-plumbing-pipe Click on ""step By Step", then scroll down to "other special CPVC parts" and click on the photos. Looks loke yours may just slide on with some dish detergent. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 17, 2012 |
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Mar 17, 2012 23:11
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wormil posted:After trying to drill a few holes in concrete I bought an inexpensive hammer drill, literally 10x quicker and easier. When I have to drill into these walls (I avoid it if possible) I drill slowly with a hammer drill & hammer drill bits yes (then inject resin into the resulting mess to stabilise it) Yes the horizontal baton is screwed to the vertical batons but thats only like 6-7 places. At the moment I'm thinking to remove the cabinets & baton, add some baton-plasterboard fixings (like toggle bolts), double- or triple-up on the baton-baton screws & then run some L-brackets from the top of the cabinets to the wall, fixed with plaster screws or toggle bolts. How does this sound?
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Mar 17, 2012 23:52
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I'm curious if LED light bulbs will benefit my stuffy bathroom. I live in loving Hot, Texas and cannot afford to cool the rented apartment to a truly comfortable temperature. I already point at fan at myself when I'm styling my hair. I have compact fluorescents in the fixture, but they still give off noticeable heat. Will 40 to 60 watt equivalent LEDs run cool? What affordable and decent kinds can I order off Amazon?
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Mar 18, 2012 20:55
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Why can't I go a week without a major home repair lately? Yesterday, the kitchen sink suddenly stopped completely. I tried snaking it with a small snake, a slightly larger one, and even a closet auger, and no success. A whole bottle of Drano Max did nothing after four hours ("clears fully stopped drains in 15 minutes," my rear end,) so I assumed that it was corrosion building up and finally clogging it like had happened with my shower. I got some new PVC and sawed out the 60 year old iron pipe downstairs from just above the pipe that goes through the concrete up almost to the ceiling and the clog is above that. The inside of the pipe was pretty gross, grease buildup had narrowed the 2" pipe to around 3/4" and there was an abundance of that wonderful black sludge that inhabits drain pipes. I tried running all 3 snakes up from below, but after putting about 10 feet in with no more resistance several times, I'm assuming I'm just running it up the vent. I pulled the trap of and tried snaking it from upstairs again with no success. I put the wall elbow back in upside-down to give me something to pour into and put some more Drano into it, but it's been sitting for 45 minutes with no results. I'm out of ideas. babyeatingpsychopath posted:Sorry, I can't find your original problem. Did you fix the flame sensor and/or thermocouple? All that other stuff helps, but those two insignificant bits are what lets the whole apparatus know it's working.
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Mar 19, 2012 00:44
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New day, new question for the house built in the sixties that is in need of LOTS of little repairs... Our sliding glass door is pretty old. When I pull on one side of the frame (opposite of the handle) you can see the frame move away from the handle. But that's for another day, unless someone has a quick fix for that problem. I noticed today that the only weatherstripping is on the side where the handle of the door meets the frame (so basically the part that closes when you go to close the door itself. At the top, there's nothing, and I could feel the air coming in the house. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to create some weather stripping for the top piece to block air from escaping or coming in. I've attached pictures...  Here's the door. We never use the door on the left, since it's blocked by a solid iron gate.  This picture is taken from the outside, so the exterior is on the right.  Inside of house on right, outside on left...can't really see the gap here...  This shows the gap the best. It's a pretty decent gap from the top of the door to the top of the frame, if that makes sense. I can take more pictures if needed, or let me know what else you need to know if I'm not explaining this the best way possible... Thanks in advance.
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Mar 19, 2012 00:52
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Is there a trick to cutting the hole for mounting an electrical box like this one? (my hosting)  It seems if you cut the circular hole to fit the inner part, you'd have to also cut away a bunch of notches to accommodate all of the protrusions. If you cut the circle large enough to fit all the protruding parts, that would only give about 1/8" of lip.
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Mar 19, 2012 19:03
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GWBBQ posted:Why can't I go a week without a major home repair lately? Yesterday, the kitchen sink suddenly stopped completely. I tried snaking it with a small snake, a slightly larger one, and even a closet auger, and no success. A whole bottle of Drano Max did nothing after four hours ("clears fully stopped drains in 15 minutes," my rear end,) so I assumed that it was corrosion building up and finally clogging it like had happened with my shower. I got some new PVC and sawed out the 60 year old iron pipe downstairs from just above the pipe that goes through the concrete up almost to the ceiling and the clog is above that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duhOTVgaUP4 SkunkDuster posted:Is there a trick to cutting the hole for mounting an electrical box like this one?
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Mar 19, 2012 19:21
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SkunkDuster posted:Is there a trick to cutting the hole for mounting an electrical box like this one? If you're going through drywall, get this tool: http://tinyurl.com/8896pl5 If you're going through wood, get this tool: http://tinyurl.com/6to2jjf Either way, you'll save yourself a lot of headache using one of those rather than trying to DIY it yourself with a sawzall or other tools. Remember, you can always cut wider, but you can never cut any narrower. keykey fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 19:27
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keykey posted:If you're going through drywall, get this tool: http://tinyurl.com/8896pl5 That might not be a bad idea. I was planning to use a circle cutting attachment on my router, but was worried that the drywall would completely dull the bit.
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Mar 20, 2012 03:34
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