|
Hughmoris posted:I can't afford the XT, will probably look for the Forester Premium W/ All-Weather Package and the 5-speed manual transmission. The m/t is rated 21/27 mpg which isn't toooo bad. What are the opinions on the manual transmission in these? Am I better off going with the automatic? My friend's is automatic. I haven't driven it yet, but riding around with him in city and highway driving, the auto seems nicely matched and gets through the gears pretty quickly. I'd opt for the manual myself, but it really depends on what your goals are.
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 04:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:34 |
|
|
BobTheFerret posted:Good on you for keeping the car and trying to work with it despite the problems - I would say though to bite the bullet and go with forged pistons, or else to go through the lemon laws. The reason I highlighted this part of your explanation is to suggest that in the future you spend the extra cash on a real tune - the california 91 cobb map is better than stock, but 91 (particularly california/arizona 91) is hard on an engine that was really made for significantly higher octane gas. A custom tune for your engine would make it much more likely to survive, and would give you an idea of whether there may have been any other niggling underlying problems that were too small for you to notice but significant enough to toast the engine. Normally I only hit the rev limiter at autox in particularly fast sections where I run out of gear but don't have time to shift to 3rd. On the street I have the shift light set for 5k and usually shift by 5500 at the most. I've stuck with it so long because I really do love the car. It can do everything I want it to do and I think it looks great too. I always thought STIs were awesome and when the hatch came out I really wanted one so when I was able to get this one on sale it was like a dream come true. I bought it with the impression it was a high performance car that was durable and reliable and could keep up with cars that were twice the price. Unfortunately that has been somewhat tainted by the amount of time it has spent in the shop at this point so some of the magic is gone. I'm thinking the best option for me, even though I love the car and planned to keep it forever, is to take the warranty fix and trade it in for a BRZ when I can. I've always wanted a little Miata like car but couldn't have one because I need a back seat I can carry my kid in. My wife has a hatch we can use for going on road trips and to the store so I just need something to carry myself and my son or someone else. If I do the lemon law thing it may leave me with a chunk of cash, but the only other car I'd really want to buy with it would be the Toyobaru so I'd have to find some other car to use for a few months to a year until I could get one. I really wanted to wait it out for them to hopefully announce a higher performance (turbo) one but it looks like I may get one sooner. I've found that having a high horsepower car on the street isn't that fun anyway unless you don't mind getting tickets. I stretch its legs at autox but don't get to use it even close to its potential on the street, especially in SoCal where it doesn't rain much and doesn't snow. If I was going to keep the car I'd get the forged pistons and the custom tune but now I'm not going to want to get anything else for the car if I'm just going to trade it in. Part of me hopes they deny the warranty so I can just go get it built right and keep it, but I know that wouldn't make the wife happy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 04:47
|
|
|
War Bunny posted:Can you guys give me a vote of confidence for using Tire Rack? I want to pull the trigger on a set of wheels and tires, but am a little worried over complaints that it is an absolute disaster if they screw something up. Checking around locally, Tire Rack has a better price by $300. I bought my brakes there and they had to send me a box of new front pads like three times because they sent the box with no packing inside so the pads rattled around and chipped on each other. The last time they were individually wrapped up real good though. To be fair, they were really cool about it and didn't give me any kind of hassle at all. They were supposed to send the UPS guy out to collect the busted ones and never did so I have like five or so extra ones lol
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 07:16
|
|
|
Suby people - I need to get some parts and I'd rather deal with someone here even if they are in the USA. First things I need is 21mm 07 STI branded WRX sway bars and also replacement struts for the 06. Anything that is inverted and looks like standard and of course suits my rather insane driving style will do. I might need something that'll cope with the STI pink race springs so keep that in mind.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 09:50
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:So I've been having a problem with my 98LGT (automatic) that's been annoying the gently caress out of me. So since I posted this, I've done some more troubleshooting. I put the FWD fuse in, and the noise goes away completely. Can't make it happen. It also goes away in neutral. Does that condemn the rear diff?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 16:44
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:So since I posted this, I've done some more troubleshooting. I'm far from an expert or anything but if pulling the fuse makes it go away wouldn't it necessarily be something in the transfer case itself? Even with the fuse pulled the rear diff is still spinning, just not powered.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2012 23:36
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:So since I posted this, I've done some more troubleshooting. I would guess one of the bearings that holds the transfer gears or clutch pack. with the fuse out there's always some lockup (min 10%) and load going through the center diff, and the amount of lockup is basically directly proportional to throttle position. with the fuse in, the clutches are completely apart. Cat Terrist posted:Suby people - https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_68&products_id=635 https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_68&products_id=767 https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_68&products_id=903 the struts only seem to be available as a package with the springs. That site is also the cheapest you will find any of that stuff, and they do ship internationally. If I had to guess, shipping on all that would be in the $300 range at a minimum. I'd really, really suggest getting whiteline 22mm adjustable bars instead of those. set to soft the rate is going to be the same and they'll give you room to stiffen things up and they will be cheaper and easier to get. As far as the struts go, that's a lot of money for them. Can you get a tokico d-spec over there? You could also ship the strut inserts on their own to feal suspension in California and have them rebuilt and revalved for about $400. That would probably end up being less and if you tell him what springs you are using and how you are driving the car he'll do custom valving which ends up much better than the stock stuff. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Mar 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 00:05
|
|
|
jamal posted:I would guess one of the bearings that holds the transfer gears or clutch pack. with the fuse out there's always some lockup (min 10%) and load going through the center diff, and the amount of lockup is basically directly proportional to throttle position. with the fuse in, the clutches are completely apart. Hmm, interesting. I hadn't even thought about that before :/ A diff only costs $50, and they don't fail very often. So I'm going to swap that out first. If that doesn't fix it... grumble. I guess it's time to put that 5speed to use. law abiding rapist posted:I'm far from an expert or anything but if pulling the fuse makes it go away wouldn't it necessarily be something in the transfer case itself? Even with the fuse pulled the rear diff is still spinning, just not powered.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 00:12
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:Hmm, interesting. I hadn't even thought about that before :/ Maybe I'm crazy but if the noise is directly related to the transmission state, I'd suspect the transmission. In your situation the transfer case specifically because of the AWD/FWD dependency. You've already pretty much eliminated the rear diff as a possible cause, and like you say they are incredibly simple so faults are usually obvious and uncommon.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 00:26
|
|
|
law abiding rapist posted:Maybe I'm crazy but if the noise is directly related to the transmission state, I'd suspect the transmission. In your situation the transfer case specifically because of the AWD/FWD dependency. You've already pretty much eliminated the rear diff as a possible cause, and like you say they are incredibly simple so faults are usually obvious and uncommon. The only reason I suspected diff is because I have a similar issue in my GL. It will whine in 4wd under similar circumstances. But never in 2wd. I changed the driveshaft to no change. I ignored it for about a year, then ended up changing the transmission because the old one had over 300k and finally shat the bed. I assumed the whine would go away because I suspected the 4wd transfer gears, but it stayed exactly the same with the new tranny. So I can only assume rear diff on that one as well. That car is a basket case of rust though. So I want the legacy to be something simple. I'm ready to up and sell the loving legacy. It's problem after problem, and working on it is a pain in the rear end. GL wheel bearing takes 30 minutes on car. Legacy one takes loving forever to cut stuck bolts and poo poo apart. Tranny swap takes 3 hours without a jack or anything, etc. Grrr. loving newer cars...
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 00:55
|
|
|
Will the new 2012 all in one impreza keys work with a 2011 model impreza?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 01:04
|
|
|
What's the opinion on 2008+ WRXs? I went and test drove an '06 WRX wagon back to back with an '08 Speed3 and was just really disappointed with the way the Subie was put together. It felt almost exactly like my friend's 02 WRX so I was curious how much they might have improved with the new model. I figured if its improved considerably I might stretch my budget a bit and at least take a look at the '08+s. Before it comes up, I've looked and looked for the SAAB 9-2x Aero and there's only one within 500 miles and the front end has been swapped with the Subie and it's an auto.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 04:42
|
|
|
02-07 Subarus and the 9-2x are all the same deal. The interior on the 08+ models is a little better but it'll always be behind the equivalent Speed3. The first imprezas that move past a "functional" interior are the '12s. Don't mistake spartan for being not put together well, though. The 02-07 WRX is a tank.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 05:31
|
|
|
The 08 WRX is lame. In 09 they bumped up the engine to 265hp (as well as several visual and suspension upgrades), so I wouldn't even consider an 08. Get an 09-11. My buddy (a Subaru mechanic) has said that the one area the 08+s excel over the 02-07 is fit and finish. I've only ever owned my 2010 WRX, but apparently the fit and finish is way ahead of the previous generations.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 05:43
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:02-07 Subarus and the 9-2x are all the same deal. The interior on the 08+ models is a little better but it'll always be behind the equivalent Speed3. The first imprezas that move past a "functional" interior are the '12s. 2006+ WRX has a 2.5L engine instead of 2.0L.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 10:34
|
|
|
My '12 Outback (2.5i, stick shift) makes a clunking sound the first time I shift from 1st to 2nd after starting the engine cold. It comes from somewhere in the direction of the back passenger side tire. It sounds almost like I'm running over a plastic bottle, but I've heard it many times, pulling away from different parking spots. Is this an issue, or do I just worry too much?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 12:55
|
|
|
CharlesM posted:2006+ WRX has a 2.5L engine instead of 2.0L. Of course, and there are other differences between model years but my point was that the platform is the same.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 15:24
|
|
|
How go KYB AGXs compare to koni inserts?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 16:17
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:My '12 Outback (2.5i, stick shift) makes a clunking sound the first time I shift from 1st to 2nd after starting the engine cold. It comes from somewhere in the direction of the back passenger side tire. It sounds almost like I'm running over a plastic bottle, but I've heard it many times, pulling away from different parking spots. Is this an issue, or do I just worry too much? Sounds like a sticking parking brake to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 16:26
|
|
|
That's the ABS testing itself, all the newer cars do it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 17:09
|
|
|
Flu Roo posted:This is why I made the decision that I loved the car enough to go for the engine rebuild and forged pistons. The service manager at subaru was a douche, so I went for the rebuild to negate this issue from happening again. Just got a call from the Subaru dealer, they say they won't fix it under warranty because their internet detectives found evidence of "racing". Do I have a leg to stand on here or should I just give up and pick it up and get it fixed right? I was all ready to lemon or trade in this car and now it looks like I may be stuck with it. Other question is if I do get it rebuilt what should I have them do, how much should it cost, and how long should it last after?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 18:39
|
|
|
You could try and go up the ladder to SOA. But I really dislike the stock pistons anyhow. Cobb is the place to go down there. Yimisport is probably my second choice. Lord Gaga posted:How go KYB AGXs compare to koni inserts? the koni is a much better damper and has a wider adjustment range. the agx I would consider for a cheap rallyx shock though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 18:47
|
|
|
jamal posted:You could try and go up the ladder to SOA. But I really dislike the stock pistons anyhow. Cobb is the place to go down there. Yimisport is probably my second choice. I just shot an email to Cobb. I'll ask you too though, assuming it's blown rings what should be done to make it reliable and about what should it cost?
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 18:52
|
|
|
Lazor posted:I just shot an email to Cobb. I'll ask you too though, assuming it's blown rings what should be done to make it reliable and about what should it cost? at the minimum, a hone, new pistons, and new bearings, plus some engine seals and gaskets to put it all back together. I like to replace the oil pickup when it's all apart (killer b) because having one break sucks. You could also do tgv deletes (grimmspeed), a turbo inlet (perrin) and get rid of the air pump stuff. The valves for the air pump system eventually get all gummed up and stop working anyway. This will run anywhere from $3500-$5000.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 19:11
|
|
|
Lazor posted:I just shot an email to Cobb. I'll ask you too though, assuming it's blown rings what should be done to make it reliable and about what should it cost? I had my 4G63 machined and the parts assembled by Greg at Millenium Motorsports in Temecula. He does great work and knows the Subaru engines very well too. When I dropped the block and head off, he had probably half a dozen Subaru blocks and heads in various stages of builds. He does most or all of the machine work for Road Race Engineering which they use in their racecars, so his work is quality. The price for machining and assembling the block and head including parts and tax was around $3,700 for me. That paid for this: Torque plate bore and hone Resurface block Resurface head Heli-coil several broken studs Valve job 2.4L 4G64 Crankshaft Inspect, measure, and micro-polish crankshaft All new seals Wiseco Pistons 8.5 CR Eagle Rods ARP hardware all over Balance shaft removal New Mitsubishi oil pump/front case assy ACL H series bearings Brian Crower springs and retainers SS swirl polished 1mm oversize nitrided valves Engine balance Sales tax I pretty much built the engine to the teeth, so if you are just doing new pistons and simple machine work, it will be considerably less. It's worth giving Greg a call though. Temecula is a bit of a drive from LA, but he comes highly recommended.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 19:27
|
|
|
jamal posted:You could try and go up the ladder to SOA. But I really dislike the stock pistons anyhow. Cobb is the place to go down there. Yimisport is probably my second choice. Thanks for the reply. Summit had them for $558 so I was going to try to be sneaky and get Advance Auto to price match summit (which they will always, summit is an option on the computers) and then get 20% off and free shipping since its over $75. The chat representative told me to pound sand though. No discounts on price matches. Would've had all 4 for $446 shipped Right now KYB's site has the best deal at $498.50 including shipping which is a good price but not so awesome that I am going to buy shocks when I need to focus on my other car. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 14, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
I don't think kyb does direct sales, where are you seeing 498.50 shipped? right now konis and agxes cost about the same (from me) thanks to the koni sale.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 22:57
|
|
|
jamal posted:I don't think kyb does direct sales, where are you seeing 498.50 shipped? http://www.justsuspension.com/catalog/product/view/id/29151/s/agx-shock-strut-suspension-kit-for-subaru-impreza-2002-2003/category/9/ They claim to be the "Factory Outlet." I used FBVIP10 coupon code EDIT Fixed URL to correct kit.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2012 23:24
|
|
|
Lazor posted:Just got a call from the Subaru dealer, they say they won't fix it under warranty because their internet detectives found evidence of "racing". Do I have a leg to stand on here or should I just give up and pick it up and get it fixed right? I would definitely go after them to disclose this "proof" they discovered. Unless of course you go around posting your actual name along with striking tales of how you thrashed your subaru about at the race track last weekend. I'd also go to another dealer as apparently "my last dealer couldn't get the engine fixed after two tries, so that's why I brought it to you competing subaru dealer."
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
Lazor posted:Just got a call from the Subaru dealer, they say they won't fix it under warranty because their internet detectives found evidence of "racing". Do I have a leg to stand on here or should I just give up and pick it up and get it fixed right? I'd be pretty shocked if you didn't have an easy lawsuit. Try another dealer. After that, lawyer up. Heres the applicable federal law, there may be state laws too. http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/15/chapter-50
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 01:32
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:I'd be pretty shocked if you didn't have an easy lawsuit. Try another dealer. After that, lawyer up. Here's the california lemon law: http://oag.ca.gov/consumers/general/lemon Here's the important bit that you've already met: "THE "LEMON LAW" AND WHAT IS A REASONABLE NUMBER OF REPAIR ATTEMPTS or (3) The vehicle is out of service because of the repair of any number of problems by the manufacturer or its agents for a cumulative total of more than 30 days since delivery of the vehicle." Enjoy your new car!
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 02:05
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:I would definitely go after them to disclose this "proof" they discovered. Unless of course you go around posting your actual name along with striking tales of how you thrashed your subaru about at the race track last weekend. I'd also go to another dealer as apparently "my last dealer couldn't get the engine fixed after two tries, so that's why I brought it to you competing subaru dealer." I didn't post anything, but when I did a search some results came up like an entry list for a Speedventures autocross event and my second place finish in a rallycross last year. The local SCCA autox guys are good about posting non-searchable results but apparently other groups aren't. The service adviser at the dealership said that the Subaru rep was there and gave him printouts from my "file" that had these things in it. This is actually a different dealer than the one I took it to the first time, another dealer did the first engine and this one did the second engine and the transmission. I mean I can't deny that I have autocrossed the car but we all know that as a high performance automobile it should be able to handle that. Of course to SOA anything timed is "racing" and voids the warranty so if that's their definition then I really don't have a leg to stand on.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 02:08
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Here's the california lemon law: But would that hold up even with the "racing" factor thrown in? In their warranty it says: "Damage Caused Due to Use of Vehicle in Competitive Events These warranties do not cover damage to any component that is the result of operating the vehicle in any competition or racing event." Maybe I need to contact a lemon lawyer. Lazor fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Mar 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 02:09
|
|
|
AkrisD posted:What's the opinion on 2008+ WRXs? I went and test drove an '06 WRX wagon back to back with an '08 Speed3 and was just really disappointed with the way the Subie was put together. It felt almost exactly like my friend's 02 WRX so I was curious how much they might have improved with the new model. I figured if its improved considerably I might stretch my budget a bit and at least take a look at the '08+s. My 2010 WRX has much more rattles/creaks/misc NVH then my 2004 Mazda 3 did. I could list everything if you want, but for now I'm just going to generalize and say every interior piece save the carpet and maybe the arm rest lid is contributing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
DrChu posted:My 2010 WRX has much more rattles/creaks/misc NVH then my 2004 Mazda 3 did. I could list everything if you want, but for now I'm just going to generalize and say every interior piece save the carpet and maybe the arm rest lid is contributing. I have a massive hole under the gas and will soon have a hole under the brake. Dammit. Every single other car I've owned, including a base, 4-cyl camry had a reinforced bit under the pedal, but not the manual, turbo subaru.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 04:35
|
|
|
I got a set of koni shocks for my 02 wagon, and was planning on finding some sti springs. They are harder to find than I thought/ people want to sell whole struts. I found someone who wants to sell me some for $100. That seems high for used springs, but maybe thats what they are worth at the moment. Anyone have any laying around they want to sell me? heh Otherwise is there anything aftermarket that isn't rce blacks that is any good? Maybe around $200 for new ones? E: Sounds like most of the springs that I found are "lowering springs". I don't want to go any lower, just a little stiffer. Guess I have to suck it up and wait for some sti springs. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Mar 15, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 05:05
|
|
|
You can get OEM STi Pinks for around $300 shipped, new. $100 seems cheap as hell to me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 06:06
|
|
|
Lazor posted:But would that hold up even with the "racing" factor thrown in? In their warranty it says: I'm not a lawyer, so don't take this as the honest truth, but as they covered the other repairs under warranty and it was those repairs that put it over the 30 days, they set precedent with those. Also does the "proof" they have show that the car you were using was definitively the vehicle in question? Maybe you borrowed a friends or shared another vehicle with someone else? Seems tough for them o be able to say that the car was definitely yours when likely all the website gives is your name and car type.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 07:35
|
|
|
Does anyone have any ideas as to why my spoiler brake light would work, but the other brake lights wouldn't? The turn signals are fine though. Are they on a different fuse or something? 08LGT if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 13:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:34 |
|
|
My exhaust arrived yesterday. The feeling of having car parts that have yet to be installed is harder to take than waiting for Christmas as a little kid.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 14:33
|
|