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xd posted:Just to create confusion, my Pilot Road 2s say 2CT on them. I'm assuming you guys mean Pilot Powers when you are saying 2CT.
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Mar 8, 2012 17:24
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| # ? May 23, 2024 11:06 |
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How are the BT-016s for everyday street riding? I'm commuting 90% of the time and the BT-016s come stock on the bike I'm getting. I'm concerned about grip on damp pavement and the tires requiring a warm up period to get decent grip.
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Mar 8, 2012 19:03
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They are more than fine. Also, OEM BT016 != aftermarket BT016.
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Mar 8, 2012 19:19
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I'm looking for some decent tires for my CL350. 3.00x19 front, 3.50x18 rear. Mostly just going to be street riding around town and on dual-lane country highways -- no interstates or track duties. If there's some kind of dual-sport tires that would also be good on smooth dirt roads, though, that would a nice bonus because there are some neat-looking dusty roads up here. Any suggestions? [e] I believe the closest metric equivalent to the stock size would be 80/100/19 front and 90/100/18 rear. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Mar 8, 2012 |
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Mar 8, 2012 19:26
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BlackMK4 posted:They are more than fine. I'd heard about that, how different are they?
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Mar 8, 2012 19:46
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xd posted:I'd heard about that, how different are they? OEM ones are single compound front, dual rear; aftermarket are dual compound front, triple compound rear. I went through OEM and aftermarket ones back to back and found the OEM ones somehow wore significantly faster (???).
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Mar 8, 2012 23:29
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Sagebrush posted:I'm looking for some decent tires for my CL350. 3.00x19 front, 3.50x18 rear. Mostly just going to be street riding around town and on dual-lane country highways -- no interstates or track duties. If there's some kind of dual-sport tires that would also be good on smooth dirt roads, though, that would a nice bonus because there are some neat-looking dusty roads up here. Any suggestions? I've looked at several numeric-to-metric sizing charts, and they all say 90/90 front, 100/90 rear. I'm no expert, but I've heard good things about the Avon AM26 Roadrider as an all-around tire.
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Mar 8, 2012 23:47
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Can I use this http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-bead-breaker-98875.html in lieu of paying $40 to get my tires changed? I guess I don't understand if in addition to taking the tire off, you can use it to put the new one on or not.
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Mar 9, 2012 00:14
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Breaking the bead is as easy as putting any leverage against the wheelwall, the rest of the process is where you should spend your money (and not much at that). Edit: You only need two tire changing bars (don't waste money on no-mar or the like, it's a pry bar with angles on the ends). The rest is just muscle, lube, and some flat plastic bits. Bixington fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 00:31
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You'll need a compressor to get the new tire seated unless you're running tubes.
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Mar 9, 2012 00:40
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Oh, that too. The piss-poor compressor I own worked fine for my first tire change, but it took more PSI to get the subsequent to seat. The local tire places are fine with pumping it to seat though, even refusing tips. Be sure to get the dudes name and later commend him to his boss if he does.
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Mar 9, 2012 00:52
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to break the bead: a couple of C-clamps to get the new tire on: elbow grease I've never used a tubeless tire so I dunno about those, but the above has worked pretty well for me in the past.
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Mar 9, 2012 01:03
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So it sounds like a few tire pry bars and clamps and I would be good to go? I have compressor in the shop at my work so I could use that when I put them back on. I googled around a bit and everyone seemed to have different ways of doing it. Can someone point me in the diretion of a good guide that doesn't require mor than what you guys have said (pry bars, plastic guides, air)? I talked with our shop guy yesterday and while he doesn't know much about motorcycles, he does know general automotive stuff and he got me all worried about mucking up my rims.
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Mar 9, 2012 01:07
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Z3n posted:You'll need a compressor to get the new tire seated unless you're running tubes.
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Mar 9, 2012 02:43
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-Inu- posted:Q2's What do you think of the Q2's man? I'm contemplating getting a rear sent over from the US. It's either $160 through a website, or $300 in a tyre store..
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Mar 9, 2012 15:44
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  Squeeze-grip clamp is a wicked multi-tool for working on a bike in limited space (and budget). A big one like this can easily break the bead on even tubeless wheels. Then you can use it to keep the tyre pinched and in the drop center 'valley' of the wheel while you go work the tyre off/on to the rim with your levers. It can also be 'flipped' and turned into a spreader, easily capable of jacking up one end or another of a motorbike (even my friends sportster). I have some rim protectors somewhere but I couldn't find them when I needed them last week. I ended up cutting out a couple of squares from a white plastic parafin jug (HDPE, used for paint thinners and similar household stuff). The ghetto rim protectors were actually better than the purpose made ones I bought with my levers (they were only a couple of quid but still). I like having a third lever handy, just in case your hand slips and one pings off or gets dropped when you're halfway through or one gets lost. -Inu- posted:...we beaded them with a bicycle pump. As someone who has tried this, I can only assume you took turns. My arms are aching just thinking about it. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 21:46
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fingerling posted:What do you think of the Q2's man? I'm contemplating getting a rear sent over from the US. It's either $160 through a website, or $300 in a tyre store.. On the track they give excellent grip, and bike feel is similar to the NTEC's/211 GP-A's (generally considered the "standard" race tires in the USA). Don't have to worry about them overheating and getting greasy easily like you usually do with "street" tires on the track. They have a stiff sidewall and a less triangular profile than say, a Michelin, so they will feel different if you are used to that. Mileage wise, I'd say about 6000 miles or so out of a rear. I bought a rear last February and it's lasted about a year of street usage, along with a couple of track days at a mid-pack intermediate pace. ReelBigLizard posted:As someone who has tried this, I can only assume you took turns. My arms are aching just thinking about it.
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Mar 11, 2012 17:13
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I helped McQueen change out his Tuono's tires yesterday, it went alright except for the rear. Seating the downsized 180 rear wasn't happening with my air compressor (generic 100psi 5gal tank). On ADV rider I read about using an inner tube to seat a bead, one side at at time. The concept worked, seating 2/3rds of one side. Then the tube gave out... that was an alarming experience. Ears ringing, glasses whited out in condensation (  it was just like call of duty!) We had a shop seat the rear after that.I like that ratcheting clamp idea, ReelBigLizard. Gonna steal it.
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Mar 11, 2012 18:48
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Gullous posted:I helped McQueen change out his Tuono's tires yesterday, it went alright except for the rear. Seating the downsized 180 rear wasn't happening with my air compressor (generic 100psi 5gal tank). On ADV rider I read about using an inner tube to seat a bead, one side at at time. We had some issues seating a 130/90-16 on the rear of a buddy's gs650, even with ratchet straps, sitting on the tire, stabbing the bead with a tire iron, etc, so we just switched to the redneck starter fluid trick. I was kind of astounded none of us did any damage to ourselves. 
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Mar 11, 2012 19:20
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Z3n posted:We had some issues seating a 130/90-16 on the rear of a buddy's gs650, even with ratchet straps, sitting on the tire, stabbing the bead with a tire iron, etc, so we just switched to the redneck starter fluid trick. I was kind of astounded none of us did any damage to ourselves. Because this is a redneck method and therefore can be learned merely by trial and error and fire department intervention, I shouldn't have to ask, but: Do you just spray a few seconds of starter fluid into the tire then get flame close to it?
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Mar 11, 2012 19:30
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Yep. I could never get it to work, but my nephew showed me that if you give the tire a swift kick while the fluid is alight, it works every time. E: It's important to get fluid all the way around the bead, not just fill it from 1 spot. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Mar 11, 2012 |
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Mar 11, 2012 19:37
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Because this is a redneck method and therefore can be learned merely by trial and error and fire department intervention, I shouldn't have to ask, but: It's ok to go to little as the tire will just fail to bead. DO NOT put to much in, start with a 3-4 seconds burst and go up from there.
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Mar 11, 2012 20:11
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In the interest of completeness, what other fluids/gases could you use?
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Mar 11, 2012 20:26
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:In the interest of completeness, what other fluids/gases could you use? We tried gasoline and WD40. Only really worked with WD40, the gas just wanted to burn rather than explode. Which is probably why started fluid is the best, but we didn't have any of that. Contact/carb cleaner would probably work well too. We had to use a shitload of WD40, I'd imagine you'd need a lot less with starter fluid.
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Mar 11, 2012 20:43
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It probably has as much to do with atomization (aerosol) as it does with the volatility/flammability of the fluid itself.
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Mar 11, 2012 20:55
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Bucephalus posted:It probably has as much to do with atomization (aerosol) as it does with the volatility/flammability of the fluid itself. Yeah, precisely. Also I think it works better when the person manning the aerosol is drunk. 
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Mar 11, 2012 21:29
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Z3n posted:Yeah, precisely. If he's drunk enough, he can just breathe at it and light the fumes.
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Mar 11, 2012 21:58
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Gullous posted:I helped McQueen change out his Tuono's tires yesterday, it went alright except for the rear. Seating the downsized 180 rear wasn't happening with my air compressor (generic 100psi 5gal tank). On ADV rider I read about using an inner tube to seat a bead, one side at at time. Hahaha, got home after sitting in traffic for 2 hours (520 was closed) and my phone died. Water must have got in it or something. Definitely a net loss in terms of money saved that day but it was kinda fun. Thanks again. Will say that Pilot Road 3's are better in every way than the poo poo that was on there before, and that's in the rain. Also, not a lot of room to test it but I'm totally digging the 180 vs the 190, thanks Zen.
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Mar 12, 2012 05:56
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I have an '05 GS500 with 2004 tires on it now, so I'm looking at some sport touring ones. The front is a 110/70-17 and the rear is a 130/70-17, but I can't find the Pilot Road 2 or 3's in this size. Motorcycle Superstore has Pirelli Sport Demons in this size for about $225 for both, which seems like a great deal compared to what the Pilot Roads cost, and they have great reviews. This would be for Colorado riding (mountain twisties and long stretches of flat highway), is this going to be a good buy or are these tires going to be several years old already?
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Mar 12, 2012 20:00
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My roommate is looking at buying those same tires, so I'm interested as well.
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Mar 12, 2012 20:48
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Sport Demon's are still being produced so you should get one with a pretty recent DOT number. They are good tires. Good life, good grip, single compound tire. An alternate option is the Bridgestone BT45's. They are dual compound so you have softer edges if you plan on being in the mountains a decent amount. Downside is that they have a flatter profile (less triangulated) than the Pirelli's so turn-in is more sluggish. They're also a little cheaper I believe. Both tires are pretty standard for GS500's and '08+ 250's so go with whichever sounds more appealing to you.
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Mar 13, 2012 06:34
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My CL350 calls for a 3.00x19 tire in the front. According to everything I can find, this translates to a 90/90 in metric. It is nearly impossible to find a 19" tire that skinny. Is it safe to go up to a 100/90 instead? Some of the few tires I can find that do exist in the proper size are the Avon Roadriders and the IRC GS-11. I've heard good things about the Avons. What's the verdict on IRC? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Mar 14, 2012 |
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Mar 14, 2012 05:17
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Sagebrush posted:What's the verdict on IRC? Middle of the pack; Not Michelin/Bridgestone, but not Shinko/Kenda either.
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Mar 14, 2012 22:33
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From the OP:Z3n posted:How do you know if you have the right pressure? What you're looking for an increase in the range of 5-7 pounds from cold to hot. If you're getting too much increase in pressure, you need to boost your pressures to reduce the amount of flex in the tire. If you're getting too little increase, you need to reduce your pressures in order to get more flex and heat in the tire.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:36
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AncientTV posted:From the OP: Yeah track use only. Also I don't know if it's going to apply to bias plies, although I would assume it does.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:37
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Do tubes need to be specced as exactly the same size as the tire they're going in, or can you get away with something a little different? I'm going to buy a set of Bridgestone TW26 and TW39, 110/80- Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 16:48
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Sagebrush posted:Do tubes need to be specced as exactly the same size as the tire they're going in, or can you get away with something a little different? I'm going to buy a set of Bridgestone TW26 and TW39, 110/80-19 and 90/100-19 respectively, but I can't find tubes in precisely those sizes. Are 70/100-19 and 110/100-18 close enough? Obviously the diameter needs to be the same, but is it better to go with a wider/taller tube, or a thinner/narrower one? They should list a range of sizes for the tubes. You're going to need to match the diameters though, the 18 is gonna be pretty stretched on the 19.
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Mar 20, 2012 00:25
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Whoops, sorry...that was a typo. It's an 18" wheel in the back. I figured that the diameters at least had to be identical for proper fit. I have seen tubes specified with a range of sizes before, but the online places don't seem to do that. I guess I should look on the manufacturers' own websites or something?
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Mar 20, 2012 03:34
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Sagebrush posted:Whoops, sorry...that was a typo. It's an 18" wheel in the back. I figured that the diameters at least had to be identical for proper fit. I've always been a little unsure on tubes, hopefully one of the dirtbike guys will chime in. You should be fine with those though.
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Mar 20, 2012 03:59
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| # ? May 23, 2024 11:06 |
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To be honest I haven't paid a ton of attention to the variances of tubes; either Dennis kirk or the parts counter guy gave me the tube per tire size. Typically the tube boxes list all the tire sizes they're good for, I recall seeing quite a range on my heavier tube, like 120-140 width. If I were you, Sagebrush, I'd go with the bigger tube. I can see a smaller tube stretching more, resulting in a thinner and weaker tube-wall. E: Dennis kirk not motorcyclesuperstore E2: Denniskirk has data! I put in 110/80-18 and this was in the specs: code:GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 04:55
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