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crime fighting hog posted:Zap-A-Gap is the One True Way, I will not hear otherwise. Zap-A-Gap is the Emperor's own glue.
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Mar 16, 2012 19:07
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Dominion posted:New and "exciting" GW glues are up for order. I guess they come in thick and thin now? I'm sure most people here know but for those that don't, beware "thin" super glue, oh dear god. You will apply it to one location and because of its absolute lack of anything remotely describable as surface tension, you will suddenly find it has decided to coat your entire god drat figure in a 1mm+ thick sheet of cyanoacrylate anger. In my case, it was a big-rear end dragon. I applied just a couple drops into one side of a seam I was trying to strengthen, and when I went to check, it was all over the loving chest, the wings themselves, the neck, down to the tail...I seriously don't know what the gently caress. It looked like there was half a drat bottle of glue on the thing. Fortunately it was a metal mini so Captain Acetone was able to save the day, but it'd be super disappointing to do something like that to a less-resilient medium.
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Mar 16, 2012 19:07
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I like the super thick glues, like zaps "slo-gap" or bob smiths "purple cap" I also use kicker, applied via a brush on the opposing part/side.
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Mar 16, 2012 19:09
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Dominion posted:Hirst Arts. I've never used them but they do exactly what you just said. Thank you! Not being able to remember the name was killing me. Now I'm off to eyeball their site and see if they have what I need.
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Mar 16, 2012 19:15
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Mortanis posted:Starting a Grey Knights army - anyone have inspirational pictures or techniques they can post to get me rolling? X-Com/desert camo Grey Knights that have since been touched up, based, and swords redone with  lightning
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Mar 16, 2012 19:22
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I got some revell contacta glue and expected it to be tacky like GW glue..how wrong I was. The thin metal tube that you're supposed to put into the thing was stuck in the lid so when I squeezed some out on a tank I was building it just spilled everywhere  Worked a little on my deffkopta today. Came out pretty well I think. Do you think I over did it on the black wash? I know I painted on the red bits a little too thick too. 
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Mar 16, 2012 19:53
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I'm stripping black basecoat off rhinos and defilers before re-priming grey and going for a weathered look. I got 85% of it off, but the last 15% is in cracks and tiny annoying places. How throughout should I be?
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Mar 16, 2012 20:35
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BULBASAUR posted:I'm stripping black basecoat off rhinos and defilers before re-priming grey and going for a weathered look. I got 85% of it off, but the last 15% is in cracks and tiny annoying places. How throughout should I be? As much as possible. Get a goddamn toothpick in there if you have to, they gotta look pristine. I demand quality! Really you won't be able to get it all off, most of the nooks and crannies are impossible so just do as well as you care.
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Mar 16, 2012 20:37
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are Winsor Newton Series 7 still the going brush of choice? my synthetics are starting to get...ugly
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Mar 16, 2012 21:05
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treeboy posted:are Winsor Newton Series 7 still the going brush of choice? my synthetics are starting to get...ugly Mine are holding up really well, and they are pretty great if you have the cash to spare.
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Mar 16, 2012 21:10
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What are good colors to highlight black with? I've heard some people say P3 Coal Black, others say Charadon Granite, and I'm wondering if Shadow Grey would work so I wouldn't have to buy a new pot of anything. vvv Yeah, I'll go ahead and experiment. Which I could have done anyway, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to do a 5 second idiot check in this thread. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 21:10
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/\/\ Shadow Grey works fine, though depending on how stark you want the highlights you may want to mix it with black first. It just depends on what sort of black you want. Black highlighted with middle greys and white will look super shiny and reflective, while highlighting with blue-greys or blues look more sleek and soft.treeboy posted:are Winsor Newton Series 7 still the going brush of choice? my synthetics are starting to get...ugly They're still very good but in recent years their QC has gone downhill so every now and then you'll get a lemon. I branched out recently and tried out some Raphael 8404, Davinci Maestro, and Rosemary & Company brushes and I think I like them better than the S7s but it's really a personal preference thing, they're all great brushes. JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 21:12
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BULBASAUR posted:I'm stripping black basecoat off rhinos and defilers before re-priming grey and going for a weathered look. I got 85% of it off, but the last 15% is in cracks and tiny annoying places. How throughout should I be? None is going to notice from a meter away, you might, but that's your burden to carry. Be strong.
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Mar 16, 2012 22:16
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Oh my sweet lord. Have you guys seen the ATROCIOUS amount of blutack on the new Tyranid photos? Go to the product pages for both, and check out the 360 photos. Then weep. Tyrannofex / Tervigon Hive Tyrant / The Swarmlord
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Mar 16, 2012 22:29
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Namenlos posted:Oh my sweet lord. Have you guys seen the ATROCIOUS amount of blutack on the new Tyranid photos? ...so? It makes sense considering they just have to paint a single model and can swap out the bits for photos.
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Mar 16, 2012 22:42
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It makes sense, but it also makes sense for them to do a better job of concealing it for their product's glamour shots.
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Mar 16, 2012 22:52
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Yeah, I noticed the the blutack, strangely enough all the work in progress shots on the web has desensitized me.
Buffalo squeeze fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 22:55
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At least it disproves the story you hear now and then about GW photoshopping their paint jobs to look better.
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Mar 16, 2012 22:57
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Getting somewhere with my 40k buildings. 
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Mar 16, 2012 23:19
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Crossposting 30 days of Infinity painting.  300 points of Nomads done! 
Fix fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 23:37
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Namenlos posted:Oh my sweet lord. Have you guys seen the ATROCIOUS amount of blutack on the new Tyranid photos? If I had to paint half the poo poo a gw painter does, I'd probably do some shortcuts too.
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Mar 16, 2012 23:47
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treeboy posted:are Winsor Newton Series 7 still the going brush of choice? my synthetics are starting to get...ugly I really like them and Raphaël Kolinsky Series 8404. The 8404 has a bit bigger of a "belly" the W&N, but both paint wonderfully if you thin your paints correctly. Backno fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 17, 2012 |
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Mar 17, 2012 02:10
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The prices on Series 7 at Dick Blick don't seem too bad, I just ordered some in preparation for the new oath thread.
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Mar 17, 2012 02:14
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I like my W&NS7 #2 for different uses than my 8404 #2, the #1s equally, and the 8404 #0 and smaller better. At the larger size, I feel like the S7 keeps a better point with paint in the brush, but the 8404 is slightly softer and better for blending with. At the smaller sizes, the 8404s hold more paint while maintaining the same sharp point, which I find preferable.
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Mar 17, 2012 02:21
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crime fighting hog posted:As much as possible. Get a goddamn toothpick in there if you have to, they gotta look pristine. I demand quality! For three sentences I considered quitting again, but only for like, a second.
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Mar 17, 2012 02:31
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:At least it disproves the story you hear now and then about GW photoshopping their paint jobs to look better. This is one of those instances when, I feel, it would have been acceptable to do a little touch-up. They are trying to sell the darn things, after all.
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Mar 17, 2012 02:45
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Naramyth posted:X-Com/desert camo Grey Knights that have since been touched up, based, and swords redone with They look nice so far, but there's no way to tell just how good they look until there's a contrasting color on the base. I have agonized over how bad a model looks until I put a color on the base and realized that it looks pretty sweet. The effect of the base being a similar shade as the model is that strong. P.S. X-com is the bestcom.
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Mar 17, 2012 03:53
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Update on my return to painting dreadnought: I've come to the conclusion that I love abusing my hardly-used metallic paints on this thing. Just about the entire bottom and back side is a mix of chainmail and tin bitz. I'm curious on what I should do with the base. I want to do something creative or at least really pleasing with the green / silver going on. Perhaps yellow grass?
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Mar 17, 2012 05:27
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PaintVagrant posted:I like the super thick glues, like zaps "slo-gap" or bob smiths "purple cap" Yeah I've used regular zap-a-gap and the Bob Smith purple cap glue(which you sold me) and I definitely prefer the Bob Smith glue. Zap-a-gap bonds just as well but is too runny. For some purposes the Loctite gel type glue is really good too.
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Mar 17, 2012 06:18
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So after bumbling about with random minis for a while, I decided to pick up the 2-player warmachine starter set. Wanting to get right into fighting with my mans I assembled and glued them all. I didn't think about how terribly frustrating this is when painting. Is there any way short of getting out a saw to try and separate the pieces? Or should I just suck it up and not worry if I can't paint behind the shields etc?
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Mar 17, 2012 07:10
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If it's hard to paint, it's probably hard to see. Don't sweat it too much, just make sure it's dark and hard to notice.
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Mar 17, 2012 07:13
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My dreadnought is turning out kicking-rad.  Also, any Orlando goons want to hang out? I would definitely love to get together to paint miniatures or play board/card/video games.
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Mar 17, 2012 08:30
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Electric Shoes posted:So after bumbling about with random minis for a while, I decided to pick up the 2-player warmachine starter set. Wanting to get right into fighting with my mans I assembled and glued them all. I didn't think about how terribly frustrating this is when painting. 9 times out of 10 I also asseble everything before I paint. It sucks sometimes (Titans have FOUR arms that all cover the parts you want to paint? Ugh), but I think it is worth it compared to painting separately and then having to cover the gaps and such. Shields are really the only exception. I usually paint shields separately.
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Mar 17, 2012 09:14
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Ashcans posted:This is kind of a goofy question, but I know there is a company that makes rubber molds for a bunch of building pieces... ...Does anyone know what I'm talking about and where to get them? If you go back my earlier post has some info. Zombie #246 posted:Wow thanks for the info. I am seriously considering using that particular resin...though yes, it is quite pricey. How much did you find yourself using for the project? Make sure to check out the design derby competions: http://www.voidgamers.com/channel/HirstArts/ (look for the hirst arts dropdown menu along the big black header) There is some AMAZING work on there. Zombie, make sure you look at the tutorials on casting with plastic: http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/plastic.html There are some other suggestions on there for resins. For my big project I probably used about two litres total. Remember that the two part resin is a 1:1 mix so a 'Two litre kit' comes with 1L of each. Finally, if you are ordering in the UK, I found these guys were pretty good: http://www.hirst-arts.co.uk/ I keep answering questions on Hirst-Arts specifically, but it is worth mentioning that there are other companies that make similar products. There is a big list here: http://www.gamedecor.com/abasworld/links.htm
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Mar 17, 2012 09:21
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Fix posted:Crossposting 30 days of Infinity painting. These look loving great as a unit. Are you photographing them in a lightbox/tent with a black background?
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Mar 17, 2012 10:27
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Photo time, I hope you look ready!
Ularg fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Mar 17, 2012 |
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Mar 17, 2012 11:48
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Thumbnailing 3000x3000 images doesn't reduce the load times, can you please resize or link those?
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Mar 17, 2012 13:20
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The thing holding that dread back is the coverage of your green paint. If you have problems with it over your black undercoat next time paint a thin base of a foundation colour then paint your green over that.
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Mar 17, 2012 13:56
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or, prime white. (prime white)
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Mar 17, 2012 14:13
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dishwasherlove posted:The thing holding that dread back is the coverage of your green paint. If you have problems with it over your black undercoat next time paint a thin base of a foundation colour then paint your green over that. I used a grey autoprimer. It was also primed back when I was trying a completely different color scheme. Ah well. Do you think I can save it with touching up all the green again?
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Mar 17, 2012 14:17
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