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Oh wow look at all the fellow VW->Volvo converts. Thanks for the info.
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Mar 14, 2012 17:32
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Transistor Rhythm posted:I really want to buy a used S60 - something in the last few years with around 50K miles on it. My main motivations are I absolutely love the way they look, I think Volvos are "safer" than comparable cars, and I was shocked to find that S60's were in the same price ranged as similarly used Camrys and Accords. Is there anything major or problematicto be aware of in the Volvo world these days? I had a late-eighties 240 back in college that I loved to death and drove into the ground. Is there anything surprising/awful/time bomb-esque about recent S60's? By 2004 they really sorted them out, and they did some refreshing in 2005 - The dashes look a little different and the bus network is faster. Basically there are some common issues but they're very well known at this point and there are good solutions to them. These cars cost more to maintain than any past Volvo but it's worth it. And if you look at R models, those have more maintenance problems than the non-Rs due to the higher power pushing some parts harder, and some unique parts that are expensive just because they're unique, but they're a really cool car with some really cool features and color combinations. I want a V70R really bad even though I have no business spending the money, and my T5 meets my needs just fine. Just keep in mind that it's no 240. You're gonna have to budget some maintenance dollars. A lot of things need replacing between 80k and 110k miles, but you won't have to do them again for another 80-100k.
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Mar 14, 2012 17:45
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Keeping in mind that I'm a total noob here, who hasn't even had a car in a while, "how expensive" are they to maintain? I had been planning on just getting an Accord or a Camry, and I was hoping for something similarly reliable.
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Mar 14, 2012 20:05
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I bought one (well, a V70) at 89,000, paid $6,000 for it, I've had it 3 years, it's at 123k now, and I've probably spent another $2,000 on it since then just in maintenance. It seems to eat up $200 at a time. If you can't do labor yourself, a timing belt job is around $600-$800, a radiator job is $600-$800, any engine sensor is in the ballpark of $100 online, suspension rubber only lasts about 80,000 miles, things like that. I'm drawing a blank now on other expenses I've had, but I think I spent $1800 on it in the first year I had it, and only about $800 last year. Although some of that is consumables like tires and a battery, and when I rolled over 100K I had to do the pcv and timing belt for a combined cost of around $600. I'm looking at $300 right now just for brake pads and rotors, and that's wholesale, although they're high quality plated parts and ceramic pads. Just stuff like that. A timing belt job on a 240 is like $50 and 45 minutes. If you're having your work done at a shop, I'd set aside at least $100 a month for maintenance knowing that it'll constantly be drained down to 0.
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Mar 14, 2012 22:43
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LloydDobler posted:I recommend Volvo Specialists if they're anywhere near downtown, the head of the Rocky Mountain chapter of VCOA is the service writer/GM there. He's a good friend of mine and they're pretty straight up, but they'll charge you $100 for the inspection. In truth most of the Volvo shops around here are pretty good, I don't know of any with a real bad rep. I'm my username at yahoo dot com. Would you be willing to email me about that shop? Would it help at all to namedrop you? I'd like them to also take some photos while it was up on the lift of the undercarriage. I'm going to hire that shop based solely on your recommendation.
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Mar 14, 2012 23:37
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Solar Coaster posted:New Volvo 240 Owner Welcome to the obsession. Looks like a fun car you've got there. As soon as you start wanting to make it even more fun, the #1 upgrade to start with is the IPD rear anti-sway bar. Bang for buck, that is the most amazing upgrade I've ever put on any car. If you've got a pick-&-pull junkyard near you, you can probably find one for supercheap. Additionally, upgrading the most-likely-close-to-original dampers will provide a great increase in driving feel. HD Bilsteins are the best choice if you're serious, but they're around $120 a corner. The mid-level Bilsteins are pretty nice choices also and about half the price. While you're down there, replace the bushings as they're most likely well rotted after 30 years. Everything tightens up amazingly, you can get a nearly-new feeling car with just a bushing/damper replacement. Also check the motor mounts, they are prone to rotting out in the pre-'86s. Upgrading from the stock 14" wheels to a 15" or 16" (keep it in the appropriate Volvo style family of wheels or the gods of Swedish automoting will smite thee) will also do wonders for helping the handling/road feel by stiffening the sidewall of the tires.
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Mar 15, 2012 00:41
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Solar Coaster, get Michelins for your tires: they have a stiffer sidewall and more material at the corners than other tires. Also, I didn't have the dough for Bilsteins (and to be honest I find the bright colors really offensive  ) so I went for KYBs (white) and they have done very well by me. The slightly-stiffer, slightly-lower coil spring set sold by IPD with the heavy-duty rear coils has also done me quite well.It was funny, I replaced my shocks and put on these coils designed to slightly lower the car, and my ride height went up about 5 inches. When I say "shot", I really mean it, the shocks put up less fight than an extendable umbrella. I personally think new shocks are an even better upgrade than the rear sway bar (which rules).
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Mar 15, 2012 04:13
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zundfolge posted:Speaking of transmissions, my family has a '95 850 automatic that hasn't had a fluid change in at least 100K miles. It shifts fine, but the fluid on the dipstick is pretty brown, and it would probably benefit from a change. If I just flush fluid from the cooler feed line that goes to the radiator and add new fluid, am I risking a dead transmission soon after, or is that only a concern with a pressure flush that might dislodge impurities? Sorry to quote myself, but any thoughts regarding this?
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Mar 15, 2012 06:15
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I know that it's a no-no on the 5 speed autos from 99-up, because yeah putting fresh fluid in there only causes an immediate failure. I don't know about the older ones, but if I was a gambling man, I'd gamble on you being fine. Crispulus, emailed.
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Mar 15, 2012 06:42
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zundfolge posted:Sorry to quote myself, but any thoughts regarding this? Just replace like a quarter of the fluid every 12 months? (disclaimer - I've never owned an auto, much less maintained one)
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Mar 15, 2012 09:45
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Sorry, I meant to reply to that. Drain the pan, drop it, clean it out with a "lint-free" cloth (there's always some poo poo in the bottom, it's from the friction plates in the clutch packs wearing down; check for any metal just in case, though), replace the gasket, and if you can, fill the pan almost all the way back up before bolting it into place. If you don't have the help to put up a full pan, you can fill from the dipstick tube, but don't start the car for a half-hour afterwards. If it's cold out, not filling the pan is a lot riskier (because ATF is so viscous at lower temps and you're trying to make sure there's a good supply around the pickup tube when you start the car). This replaces only a portion of the fluid, which is all you want to do. Replacing it all at the same time kills transmissions by releasing a lot of nook and cranny debris all at once (remember that ATF is half of AI's favorite penetrating oil, 1/2 and 1/2 ATF + acetone), but the additives do break down in your ATF as it's used and this will eventually be the death of the transmission through flaring, slipping, and burnt friction plate poo poo jamming up the valve body. So you need to hit a balance between not shocking the system but getting fresh fluid in there, and a drain and fill of the pan will usually replace 1/4 to 1/3 of the fluid. Personally, I figure do it every 10 or 15 thousand miles. Takes a while for the fluid to visually improve; you'll never get rid of all the old fluid, but that's not necessary unless you're anal about it, in which case you should've started with a new car and gotten regular flushes anyway.  Keep in mind that there's always the possibility that any new fluid addition can kill the transmission if you roll really bad dice, even just topping it off with half a bottle. I went for it on my 740 as soon as I could, and drat the torpedoes, because there's only three ways it can go: 1) Don't change fluid. Transmission eventually dies badly from neglect, long before it normally would (like a dying of a heart attack at 45). 2) Put off changing any the fluid until some nebulous future time, increasing the risk to for Future You when he finally decides to do it. 3) Get on it, ASAP. The only reason I'd put this off is if a transmission problem would be such a showstopper that you have to go with 1) and think happy thoughts until you've saved a fistful of "just in case" money. I did have a driveable project car for a backup and a line on a cheap trans with 1/2 the mileage if it all went south. It's probably worth noting in this doom and gloom post that if you get passive flushes done (where they just connect to your trans cooler lines and let the trans push the old fluid out and the new fluid in) at your recommended regular intervals, none of this nail-biting poo poo applies. It's one of the big reasons for hoping the PO of a potential used car has good maintenance records. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 13:18
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Thanks Ether Frenzy and Splizwarf for the great tips!  I'll start looking upgrading the suspension as soon as I get an electrical issue resolved. It seems that my rear tail light is shorting out, as well as a few other odd things.
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Mar 15, 2012 15:22
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Unplug all the lights and pull the whole light bar out of the rear end on the problem side; check for water first, and then investigate the ground strip and all the connections. It's a single shared ground strip for all four bulbs, and the sockets can warp from heat over the years (breaking contact with the power and ground strips).
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Mar 15, 2012 15:58
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LloydDobler posted:I know that it's a no-no on the 5 speed autos from 99-up, because yeah putting fresh fluid in there only causes an immediate failure. I don't know about the older ones, but if I was a gambling man, I'd gamble on you being fine. Thanks, LD! Brett was pretty cool to talk to. When I called him, he was actually texting you. Haha. I'm paying him to do a pre-purchase inspection, and if everything else checks out. Replacing the clutch less the cost of purchasing from the Denver seller. Thanks again!
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Mar 16, 2012 16:50
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I went to a couple dealerships yesterday to browse their V50 lease returns and any 07+ used on the lot. When I mentioned that I'm set on a 6psd they both laughed at me and wished me luck. gently caress Canada.
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Mar 16, 2012 18:12
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renzor posted:I went to a couple dealerships yesterday to browse their V50 lease returns and any 07+ used on the lot. When I mentioned that I'm set on a 6psd they both laughed at me and wished me luck. gently caress Canada. 
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Mar 16, 2012 18:26
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Well, that was fun. And by "was fun" I mean "really sucks". Volvo crumpled to protect me, I'm pretty sure it's done for though.  Mourn with me fellow internet Volvo fans. Details: Just dropped off my kid at school, doin about 35 down a city street, lady ran a red light and popped right out in front of me. I bent the brake pedal when I hit her because I was on it hard. I'd been driving it all week because the weather has been just freakin' awesome, first week of the year suitable for the convertible. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2012 19:42
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That sucks! Joining you lot for some Volvo fun times, just picked up the skittles green 242 some of you might recognize from some Volvo forums. Pics to come, the paint needs to be buffed and I can't wait to get my BBS style 5s on it!
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Mar 16, 2012 19:59
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LloydDobler posted:Nooo! gently caress! Glad to hear you're okay. What a way to start the weekend!
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Mar 16, 2012 20:05
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LloydDobler posted:Well, that was fun. And by "was fun" I mean "really sucks". Automotive Insanity > Lloyd bought a Volvo that was wrecked! Then it wasn't! Now it is again! That sucks, though haven't you fixed up worse? Presumably at least someone else's insurance is paying for it this time.
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Mar 16, 2012 20:13
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Booooo! On the glass-half-full side, it frees up room in your stable for a new project. You're gonna have a sore right leg tomorrow I bet, if you bent the pedal doing impromptu leg presses. Volvo, Tanning, Laundry. And at least it was that one, not the 122.
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Mar 16, 2012 21:59
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Awwwww... not you too! March is not Volvo month.
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Mar 17, 2012 00:30
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That picture makes me wince. Sorry that it got smashed - I know you put a lot of sweat into that car.
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Mar 17, 2012 05:01
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Thanks for the support yall. I'm feeling better tonight, my back feels normal now but my neck is a bit stiff. My right hand was feeling sore in the wrist all day and I couldn't figure out why, but tonight I went to take anything valuable out of the car before going home and found that I'd punched the stereo during the accident, and shoved the face into the stereo chassis about 1/8 of an inch. It's crooked but it was still working when I shut the car off. Pretty wild. So far her insurance has already called me and informed me that they're accepting liability, and my insurance is handling it on my end and will do all the adjusting and estimating on site where the car is, and then they'll just submit a bill to the other company when we're all done. IOwnCalculus posted:Automotive Insanity > Lloyd bought a Volvo that was wrecked! Then it wasn't! Now it is again! No actually, this is far worse than anything I've actually fixed. I never do repairs that require a frame pull, which this one will. My front end is smeared over to the left a good bit. Here's a couple more shots showing the other side.   The real heartbreaker? On wednesday I was bidding on a beautiful wrecked low mileage 2006 V70R but stopped when it became too expensive. Now I regret stopping. Then today I look on craigslist and someone in Denver had an identical 04 C70 to mine, but with the factory manual transmission and only 31k miles for sale just last month. The ad is still up but when you hit their website it says sold. Ah well.
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Mar 17, 2012 05:53
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So with that in mind then, are you going to try to get them to fix it, or total it out? Or just go with whatever they want to do and maximize the value as best you can?
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Mar 17, 2012 15:53
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I'm assuming they'll total it. Sale prices on these is between $11k and $15k at this point, and it has at least $4k retail in parts that I can see, without labor. So I want to maximize my settlement and then no matter what happens I'm buying the car back to get the good parts off of it. I have some highly sought after things like the strut brace and manual transmission, and the wheels and lowering kit. I will strip the front end before making the final decision on whether or not to rebuild.
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Mar 18, 2012 06:34
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I picked up a '96 854R with 160K in June of 2011 for $3300 after about 6 months of owning a beat to poo poo 95 854 Turbo that was surprisingly fun. I had bought the turbo back in January of 2011 when the auto transmission of my '02 Accord took a poo poo. I saw that coming. Having never modded a car, I figured I'd give it a go. Since June, I've tossed on Koni FSD's paired with IPD springs and replaced the OEM sway bar end links with IPD's heavy duty ones. The ride was pretty harsh at this point, but the car stayed planted a lot better. The added meat of moving from 215/40/17 summer tires to 215/45/17 winter tires made the ride quite a bit more comfortable, though surprisingly, adding a strut brace also made a big difference in ride quality. I've since swapped on Michilin Pilot Super Sports and the grip and ride quality are both improved. I recently tossed on front 302mm rotors that were available on some C70's - the only thing necessary for this swap is a larger caliper bracket available from FCP. Probably cheaper if you can find a wrecked C70 (sorry to the above poster) with the larger brakes at a junkyard, but I'm lazy. Paired with Stop-tech (front) and Hawk HPS (rear) brake pads, the car stops a whole lot more confidently now. Enough to make the blood rush to the front of my face during the bed in process. Not too bad for a cheap upgrade. This past weekend, I was down in Portland at the shop of a guy that goes by Lucky. He previously worked for various dealerships as well as IPD and is the man behind ARD (http://www.ardideas.com/) tuning. We (him) swapped out my stock 15G for a rebuilt 18t, and got an ARD blue tune. Paired with the 3" OBX Turboback exhaust it's good for approximately 310hp at the crank (~270-280 at the wheels?). I also picked up a M56H 5 speed transmission in Portland on my way back to Seattle. Having a tranny in the trunk (heh) probably saved me from a speeding ticket on the way home. I'm loving the tune so far - it's deceivingly quick for how smooth it is, and an added bonus was the increase (from 21 to 24mpg @ 75mph) in cruising MPG. I don't have any super sweet hard parking pictures of my car yet, but here's a picture of it with snow tires:  Ongoing plans include: swapping in the 5 speed, getting the car professionally buffed, having the tint redone, and I'll probably look into what it would cost to have the curbed to hell wheels fixed, if possible. Besides that, the only thing performance wise I think I'll do in the near future will be to install 25mm sway bars on the front and rear. I'll try it out at an autocross event in May. Overall, I'm loving the car. It's in good enough shape that I still care about maintaining the appearance, but has enough dings from age and previous owners for me not to care too much about a new rock chip or two. It's quick, handles extremely well for what it is, cheap to insure, and I absolutely love the boxy look. goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 00:00
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I think the 12" rotors were first offered on the V70Rs of 99 or 2000 actually, but I'm not 100% on that. No offense taken, I didn't have them on my car! I just bought them for my C and was going to pick them up at the parts warehouse on my way home from work Friday. I cancelled the order. Those 850Rs are awesome and super quick, glad to see you having fun with it. If you need any help with the manual swap, I'm available for questions, and I've also posted a swap thread on here that's in the project archive sticky with tons of pictures, if you haven't seen it already. Update to my situation, the adjuster came by and said "I'm already over $10k in my head" on the repair bill, so she said it's totalled for sure. I got the hood open, everything is all messed up.  Here's a normal shot for reference:  Both NADA and KBB put the value right at $12,500 so hopefully they allow something for how much I loved the car, and don't try to beat me down for the original salvage title, considering I replaced every single broken piece of the car, mostly with brand new parts. But under the hood there's a whooole lot of damage, it's definitely beyond my ability or desire to repair. So I'll be stripping it and possibly parting it out, which will depend only on whether or not I buy another one. I'll have to see if the 122 can keep me happy over the summer. Probably not, I love me some convertible time. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 01:02
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Lloyd....it looks like the strut brace got bent?? Also when you start stripping it, put up a list of the parts...might be interested in a few pieces.
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Mar 20, 2012 02:34
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"Automotive Insanity > Volvo Megathread, We all wrecked our cars." The CO 245 GLT's clutch failed! Brent at Volvo Specialists posted:
I'm thinking the pre-purchase inspection was a good investment. Thanks, Lloyd! All the suspension bits I'd be unconcerned with (I was planning an IPD shopping spree for my old GLT anyways), I have a brand new water pump in the wrecked one, and brand new exhaust system, and even the failed clutch wouldn't be so bad but the wiring harness issues, while I have a harness in the wrecked one, really seems like brain surgery. The guy was originally asking 2,200 USD BEFORE the clutch issues. I would offer 1,000 USD now and have it shipped to a local shop that has done clutch work on my old GLT but I'd still be paying shipping... I dunno... Volvo team, thoughts? There's also this 49,000 Indy eBay 1993 245 DL, m47 with six days and a buy it now set at 7,500 USD. Personally, I'd say that 7,500 USD is a little high, were I spending that I'd save for a V50 or V70 AWD six-speed. Perhaps I can snag a low bid, but I severely doubt that. This V70R Price is way too good to be true, right? LloydDobler posted:
I remembered this and I hope they don't dick you around on this one. Crispulus fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 04:16
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I don't think the strut brace got bent, it has some factory divots smashed into it to clear things like that fuse box and the alarm siren. If it did get bent it's not obvious. Crispy: That V70R regardless of the price has about 4-6 items on it that if they fail will ding you for well into the $2k+ range. I would guess that car has at least 2 of them failed as it is, otherwise it wouldn't be so cheap. 240 wiring is really easy, but labor intensive. If you're not afraid to take a lot of things apart, and have the memory to put them back together, then I'd say go for it. Just set aside some time to do so. With the internet it's even easier than when I used to do it, and I've swapped entire harnesses between cars before. And yeah, keep in mind that Brett's shop is a high quality outfit that charges something like $110 an hour and marks parts up to full retail, so all those items are much less expensive when you buy on the internet and put them in yourself. The real question is, is it worth it? It's more of a basket case than originally advertised, I bet you can find basket cases closer to you. The only thing that makes going out of state for a $1000 car worth it is if it's a serious bargain.
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Mar 20, 2012 05:16
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Crispulus posted:There's also this 49,000 Indy eBay 1993 245 DL, m47 with six days and a buy it now set at 7,500 USD. Personally, I'd say that 7,500 USD is a little high, were I spending that I'd save for a V50 or V70 AWD six-speed. Perhaps I can snag a low bid, but I severely doubt that. Yeah...I would price a 04 V70 at around $9-10k so they are trying to off load it cheap, I'd be suspicious..when I bought my 98 V70R two years ago, the dealer wanted $6k for it. I talked them down because of small issues I found with the car. There is also quite a lot of miles on that 04, another thing to be suspicious of. However, if it checks out at a local volvo shop I'd say that would be a nice steal. The 04s weren't bad at all...not as nice as an 06 in my opinion...
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Mar 20, 2012 06:13
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I am looking at a 1997 Volvo 850 (base model) 150k miles for $1800. My landlord is selling it, took it for a test drive this evening and it seemed to run fine, good tires. I'm not sure what the maintenance history is like but I do know they're not mechanics. Any common issues to look for other than whats in the OP? Any way to tell if the timing belt has been changed? I believe it is suffering from the ABS/TRACS issue listed in the OP but I think its due to the ignition switch. If I jiggle the ignition the lights go off. *Is there a good way to check for flood damage on these cars? It was registered in the New Orleans area at the time of Hurricane Katrina. Hughmoris fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 01:36
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Finally got my Volvo home! Made some brackets for Recaro SE's that I picked up, but I guess I need to remake the driver's one as the seat is a little too far back for the girlfriend... Also, I made the brackets pretty low, is there any way to move the steering column down a little? It seems it might be uncomfortably high for long journeys. Can I shim it down? The car is an 84 in case that matters. Car runs great for having at least 220k on the motor, 250k on the chassis.
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Mar 21, 2012 06:06
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That looks like you photoshopped it to that color by adjusting the colors.
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Mar 21, 2012 06:08
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Alright AI I almost did a very bad thing. I considered selling my (yet to be titled) '92 240. I had an ominous feeling that it was going to bleed me dry but then some people gave me money for my birthday.  So now I'm thinking about just finding out what needs fixin, and fixin it. Also, how do you guys feel about graffiti-ed paintjobs? Oh and at the risk of starting another "oil thread" what do you sensible people recommend in the way of brakes and suspension bushings? There's way too much hellaflush/cut springs bullshit over on turbo bricks for me to sort through at the moment. One last thing: I'm going to need to replace the front side-markers. Are there more attractive options for headlights/sidemarkers available?
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Mar 21, 2012 16:01
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Oh and at the risk of starting another "oil thread" what do you sensible people recommend in the way of brakes and suspension bushings? Whatever is cheapest. Its an old rear end Volvo so pretty much anything will be an improvement. Make sure to check brake fluid color and consider flushing the brake system for that new car braking feel!
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Mar 21, 2012 16:17
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Lord Gaga posted:That looks like you photoshopped it to that color by adjusting the colors. Cloudy + phone camera? I'll take more pics today after I get the door back together. Any ideas on moving the steering column?
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Mar 21, 2012 16:44
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Lord Gaga posted:Whatever is cheapest. Its an old rear end Volvo so pretty much anything will be an improvement. Make sure to check brake fluid color and consider flushing the brake system for that new car braking feel! If you put cheap bushings in a 240, you'll be replacing them again in a year. Get the part numbers off FCPEuro and order some OEM ones from Tasca. They're not that much more expensive than the URO junk most stores sell, and they're worth it. You could go the poly route, but they're seriously pricey and not that much of an improvement if you're just going to DD the car. As for the turn signal lenses, you can find replacements for the clear ones on eBay if you want to stick with the OEM look, or there are some all-amber ones if you want to do something a little different. The "euro" clear and amber ones don't quite fit on the US turn signal buckets. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Mar 21, 2012 |
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Mar 21, 2012 17:21
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zundfolge posted:If you put cheap bushings in a 240, you'll be replacing them again in a year. Get the part numbers off FCPEuro and order some OEM ones from Tasca. They're not that much more expensive than the URO junk most stores sell, and they're worth it. Thanks for the heads up. I'm wondering what the durability of those is like compared to stock rubber. I don't plan on DD'ing it but I do plan on taking some roadtrips. Long stretches of smooth highway so comfort won't be an issue. I would eventually like to drop it a couple inches, swap out that terrible slushbox for a T5 or T56, and go have some fun. Lord Gaga posted:Whatever is cheapest. Its an old rear end Volvo so pretty much anything will be an improvement. Make sure to check brake fluid color and consider flushing the brake system for that new car braking feel! I'll be removing the calipers when I do the bushings. I'm used to working on a Ranger so I like to have lots of room.
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Mar 21, 2012 17:52
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