|
Amandyke posted:I'm not a lawyer, so don't take this as the honest truth, but as they covered the other repairs under warranty and it was those repairs that put it over the 30 days, they set precedent with those. Also does the "proof" they have show that the car you were using was definitively the vehicle in question? Maybe you borrowed a friends or shared another vehicle with someone else? Seems tough for them o be able to say that the car was definitely yours when likely all the website gives is your name and car type. I'm no lawyer either, but this is my way of thinking. I mean, registering doesn't mean participating. And, if they are looking at results, you could say you used a friends car. Or "your other car" but didn't bother to change the registration data since no one cares. Or just deny that it was you unless it has an indisputable picture of you. I could register any name, address, and car in the world, you don't provide proof on the Internet searchable data. Sure you show your license at events, but I don't think many clubs photocopy it and put it in the interwebs. I agree with those who said to demand to see this proof. Unless its your vin number or license plate on an official document, I would fight that poo poo. I could go create a website right now with a bunch of names and fake race results. While they would dissolve (I hope) in a courtroom, it seems also that the current "proof" isn't really vetted, so to speak.
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 15:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 08:44 |
|
|
THE BLACK NINJA posted:I'm no lawyer either, but this is my way of thinking. I mean, registering doesn't mean participating. And, if they are looking at results, you could say you used a friends car. Or "your other car" but didn't bother to change the registration data since no one cares. Or just deny that it was you unless it has an indisputable picture of you. I could register any name, address, and car in the world, you don't provide proof on the Internet searchable data. Sure you show your license at events, but I don't think many clubs photocopy it and put it in the interwebs. I think if I went with a lawyer I could probably get the car bought back under the lemon law and I would end up getting what I paid for it minus some for depreciation which would come out to about $25k. If I traded it in I'd get about the same amount. In either case I'd have to get a new car in which case I would want a FRS/BRZ which we still don't know the actual price of but can figure will start around $25k. I'd also have to wait at least a few months for it to even be available to purchase. Add on options, TTL, and financing charges and that probably puts it up at least another $3.5k which is about what it will cost to rebuild the engine. If I rebuild the engine I'll probably drive the car for at least another 60-100k miles at which point I could sell it and get the higher performance Toyobaru (turbo?) that I actually want. The more I think about it the easiest and actually cheapest option is just to rebuild the engine to be reliable and drive the thing to over 100k miles as I had originally planned.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 18:02
|
|
|
Depending on where you are you may be able to just go to small claims for the cost of the rebuild/warranty and even if you lose youd only be out around $100.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 18:06
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:Depending on where you are you may be able to just go to small claims for the cost of the rebuild/warranty and even if you lose youd only be out around $100. I guess what I haven't said explicitly is that if Subaru rebuilds it again I don't want to keep it. I'm only going to keep it if I get to have it built right which I would have to pay for. If they were going to rebuild it I was going to trade it in the first chance I got. I think my only two choices now are lemon or rebuild and I'm leaning heavily toward the rebuild angle.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 20:09
|
|
|
dealerships generally do a pretty half-assed job on rebuilds too, as in just drop in one new piston. I would never rebuild a shortblock without a hone using torque plates, new rings, new bearings, and actually measuring all the clearances. I'm tempted to start building and selling shortblocks but that can turn into a huge headache even if you do everything perfectly all the time as soon as someone grenades their motor on break in because of a bad tune or bad assembly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 20:30
|
|
|
With the way reputation works on the internet I'd be scared to death of doing that
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 20:34
|
|
|
Silly question, but I haven't been able to figure it out: In terms of regular engines (block, head, etc), what is the Subaru short block versus the long block?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 20:43
|
|
|
Long block is short block + heads. There are whole threads on Nasioc dedicated to measuring clearances and torque plate design, EJ25 engine building seems like a crapshoot.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 21:45
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:You can get OEM STi Pinks for around $300 shipped, new. $100 seems cheap as hell to me. Fair enough. Sucked it up and paid the guy. Just need to wait for everything to arrive and I can get suspended
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 22:26
|
|
|
Shortblock is the bottom end assembly minus heads. Longblock has heads. Edit: drat slow phone posting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 22:50
|
|
|
Lazor posted:I guess what I haven't said explicitly is that if Subaru rebuilds it again I don't want to keep it. I'm only going to keep it if I get to have it built right which I would have to pay for. If they were going to rebuild it I was going to trade it in the first chance I got. I think my only two choices now are lemon or rebuild and I'm leaning heavily toward the rebuild angle. If you took them to small claims, you would be getting money from either SOA or the dealership (likely SOA) for the cost of the rebuild under the lemon law. Would be pretty easy to argue that clearly the dealerships are unable to repair the motor to a reliable state as you're on your 3rd rebuild... So you would most certainly not be giving business to the dealership again, you'd be going to a 3rd party independent shop to get the *complete* rebuild done. Don't just go for the short block rebuild. You want the whole motor gone over and refreshed to better than original.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2012 23:01
|
|
|
With the first local autocross events of the year coming up this weekend, I am considering mixing some racing fuel or toluene into my gas tank. I feel sure that it would benefit me during the event (by me I mean my motor) but I am wondering what the effects are as I refill with regular 92 AKI fuel and blend the mixture in my tank back down. Is this a recipe for disastrous knock? It seems to me like “yes” because the ECU wouldn’t learn to retard timing and whatever else it does until knock was occurring. I calculate that I have only filled my car up 13 times, and 11 of those were at the same Shell gas station (what can I say, I barely drive the thing). Is there something to be said for keeping it simple and consistent? Are the benefits of the high octane during autocross worth the risk, if any, incurred by having to let the ECU “retrain” itself to 92 when my fuel tank mixture gradually comes back down to pump gas AKI levels?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 00:58
|
|
|
jamal posted:I'm tempted to start building and selling shortblocks but that can turn into a huge headache even if you do everything perfectly all the time as soon as someone grenades their motor on break in because of a bad tune or bad assembly. Might take you up on something like this during the summer or fall if you're into it. Looking at taking the WRX into vf39 or bigger territory and want to make sure it's reliable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 01:19
|
|
|
The radiator on my 2005 STi sprung a leak today on the top where the plastic meets the aluminum (not sure what its called). Are there any recommendations for a new one or should i stick with stock? Car has over 100k miles (daily driver), built engine, Blouch gt 2.5r, etc... if the mods matter.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 03:10
|
|
|
Lazor posted:If they were going to rebuild it I was going to trade it in the first chance I got. I think my only two choices now are lemon or rebuild and I'm leaning heavily toward the rebuild angle. Call a consumer protection/lemon attorney tomorrow. I had to do this with SOA before. It's more rare for the dealer to buy back the car and they always concede to fixing it. As jamal pointed out they will more than likely do a poo poo job again. The attorney will go straight for corporate as the local dealer will call them in anyway so you just skip that step. Best case scenario, you win a cash settlement and it pays to fix your motor properly for you to keep, or sell and then you can buy something different. I would avoid dealers anyway in the future when possible. Worst case, you remain in the situation you currently find yourself. Time is a factor. I tried the local lemon law protection and have learned that lawyers work faster and get better results. The "lemon law" is more a mediation based resolution with the dealer and they have all the power in that context.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 03:46
|
|
|
Shiv posted:The radiator on my 2005 STi sprung a leak today on the top where the plastic meets the aluminum (not sure what its called). Are there any recommendations for a new one or should i stick with stock? Koyo. The stock ones tend to do that. Other things you could do at the same time are a thermostat, new hoses, new clamps, and new higher pressure caps. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Mar 16, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 04:41
|
|
|
jamal posted:dealerships generally do a pretty half-assed job on rebuilds too, as in just drop in one new piston. I wish you were closer because I would pay the gently caress out of you to build me a motor.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 12:23
|
|
|
jamal, got that hard inlet just now. It fits really well and as always your services are amazing. My boss is super pleased as no one could even get this specific piece let alone in two days! Thank you. Any news on the Killerb stuff? I have everything else and my living room looks like a parts shop. Just curious, I won't be starting the build for about 3 weeks or so.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 17:34
|
|
|
(((k))) posted:jamal, got that hard inlet just now. It fits really well and as always your services are amazing. My boss is super pleased as no one could even get this specific piece let alone in two days! Thank you. Any news on the Killerb stuff? I have everything else and my living room looks like a parts shop. Just curious, I won't be starting the build for about 3 weeks or so. awesome, glad to hear it. The killer b stuff is at swain-tech which from my experience is hard to pin down an eta for. I'll see what I can find out though. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 17, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2012 18:47
|
|
|
Bought Konis, Whiteline Com-C upper strut mounts, and some Whiteline outrigger bushings from Jamal. Good deals on the Konis, thanks Jamal 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2012 15:16
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Bought Konis, Whiteline Com-C upper strut mounts, and some Whiteline outrigger bushings from Jamal. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2012 15:47
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:It already handles like it's on casters. I'm hoping it handles drat well for all the time and money that's going into this thing.  Front Koni Inserts STi stock springs Whiteline Com-C upper strut mounts Whiteline ALK (comfort) Whiteline front lowering control arm bushing Rear Koni Inserts STi stock springs Group-N upper strut mounts Whiteline Diff outrigger bushings Whiteline Diff mounting bushings JDM GC STi rear subframe and control arms JDM GC STi rear trailing arms I'm sure the last two have no performance gains, but they are drat clean in comparison to the crap that was on there!
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2012 15:57
|
|
|
Finally landed an STi hood scoop/splitters for a great price. Yet another excuse to throw an STi TMIC in there and start some real engine work. Question for y'all, are there any larger/more powerful turbos that spool as quick as a tuned TD04? I wouldn't mind a larger turbo but I love hitting boost around 2600-2700rpm for daily driving. I'd like more kick but I hate winding out a car to get it to start moving.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2012 14:54
|
|
|
kylej posted:Question for y'all, are there any larger/more powerful turbos that spool as quick as a tuned TD04? I wouldn't mind a larger turbo but I love hitting boost around 2600-2700rpm for daily driving. I'd like more kick but I hate winding out a car to get it to start moving. You could step up a tad in size with any of the ball bearing offerings out there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2012 15:15
|
|
|
Okay, pretty much everyone (here, my coworkers, and two different shops) agrees that the weird clunk/chirp sound my '99 OBS makes occasionally is due to a worn transmission mount. But just as I decided not to worry about it for the moment, the car has started making a new noise. It started out as a low wub-wub-wub (dubstep!) coming from the right rear wheel area. I figured it was a wheel bearing. It does seem to get louder when I'm going around a left-hand curve. It has been getting progressively louder over the last few weeks, but there seems to be another component, like a hum or whine, that also seems to be coming from the rear but at the same time sounds less localized. My first instinct was, "oh, crap - my rear diff is burning out. The car is thirteen years old and as far as I know the diff oil has never been checked." But a coworker reassured me that I'd see and smell a fluid leak if that's what had happened. There isn't a spot of oil on the floor of my garage, but I just looked at the rear diff to be sure and it appears that the rear end has been painted red. It doesn't look like a typical fluid leak - it actually looks like someone took an airbrush and applied a couple light passes of red paint over most of the rear cover. What the heck is going on? What's the best way for me to check the diff oil? On top of all that, my A/C no longer seems to work. I can feel the compressor kick in, but the system just makes a low hissing sound and the air doesn't get any colder.  Edit: the "new" hum I'm getting really cranks up in volume at between 45-50 mph, if that makes a difference. And on top of everything else, I'm now getting a CEL for the evaporative emissions warning. infrared35 fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Mar 18, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2012 18:07
|
|
|
kylej posted:Finally landed an STi hood scoop/splitters for a great price. Yet another excuse to throw an STi TMIC in there and start some real engine work. an 18g is probably the smallest turbo worth upgrading to. Blouch has a ball bearing version with a billet wheel called the 18g-xt-r, which combined with an equal length header would have awesome spool and be capable of ~340-350whp. infrared35 posted:Okay, pretty much everyone (here, my coworkers, and two different shops) agrees that the weird clunk/chirp sound my '99 OBS makes occasionally is due to a worn transmission mount. But just as I decided not to worry about it for the moment, the car has started making a new noise. really sounds like a wheel bearing. if you leave it you can mangle up the hub which adds another ~100 to the repair. I wouldn't worry too much about the diff but there are two plugs in the cover. the top one is for filling and the bottom one is for draining. There's probably a leak somewhere in the a/c. new o-rings and a recharge might take care of it. I get an occasional evap related CEL and it goes away when i reset the ecu. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Mar 18, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2012 23:48
|
|
|
jamal posted:really sounds like a wheel bearing. if you leave it you can mangle up the hub which adds another ~100 to the repair. I wouldn't worry too much about the diff but there are two plugs in the cover. the top one is for filling and the bottom one is for draining. Cool, thanks. I'll maybe pick up a smallish bottle of diff oil just try adding a little to see where the level is. Or, maybe I'll just go hog wild and drain/fill the whole thing. But I suppose I need new gaskets for the plugs? I do have a torque wrench with me that goes from probably 20-100 foot-pounds, if that helps. I've got one of those A/C recharge kits with a pressure gauge, and it says it helps seal leaks. Is there any harm in just going ahead and trying it? I'll reset the ECU tomorrow maybe; I had Advance Auto erase the code, but it just came right back. I normally wouldn't try to tackle all this stuff at once but I've got to make a 1300-mile trip in a couple weeks (while towing a thousand-pound trailer) and I need to try and make sure the car won't fall apart on me in the middle of the mountains or something. On the plus side, I got paranoid about my lower control arms after reading the mechanical disaster thread and checked mine, and they're in surprisingly good condition considering the thing has been through thirteen Michigan winters. I am still confused by the red on the back of the rear diff though. It definitely wasn't there when I put my "transitional" tires on last summer: 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 03:07
|
|
|
Sockington posted:I'm hoping it handles drat well for all the time and money that's going into this thing. Pretty much what I am putting on my car. jamal didn't give me a price on the whiteline stuff though
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 03:43
|
|
|
I don't have tarmac tires for my rally car but I think my '08 WRX wheels are compatible with the '95 Impreza - does anyone know of anything I don't? They are both 5-100 Bolt Patterns. The tires are 205x50xR17's so they aren't going to interfere that much? I guess I will just need to try them. Tirerack says that they are interchangeable.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 06:04
|
|
|
I think they're a 17x7 +55. That tire size could be close to the struts depending on the parts you're using and alignment.blindjoe posted:Pretty much what I am putting on my car. jamal didn't give me a price on the whiteline stuff though oh, whoops. pmed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 06:10
|
|
|
Does anybody know the various dimensions for the 2012 Outback wheel? I believe the bolt pattern is 5x100, but what about width, offset, and center bore? Could I stuff a 15" steel wheel on there? Anyone know any good sources for steel wheels? Alternatively, how much do the 16" steel wheels off of the 2.5i run? Could I fit a 225mm tire on one of those?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 20:51
|
|
|
Pretty much all stock subaru wheels are 16x6.5 or 17x7 with a 55mm offset, and have a 56.1mm centerbore. The sti and 2011 wrx have a little wider wheels. 225/65-16 works just fine on a 6.5 I'm pretty sure the 2012 outback has 294mm front discs like the wrx. There are a couple of 15" rally wheels that will fit but if you want take offs from something else they need to be 16." I used to buy sets of 16" wrx wheels for like $200 max with tires so just browse your local classifieds section of nasioc and something will pop up for cheap. for example http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2326200 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2314265 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2310908 although all those prices are a little on the high side. and this guy is on crack: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2319939 jamal fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Mar 19, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2012 21:34
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Does anyone have any ideas as to why my spoiler brake light would work, but the other brake lights wouldn't? The turn signals are fine though. Are they on a different fuse or something?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 05:32
|
|
|
Hey guys, appreciate the answers to my TireRack questions. Have another (probably dumb) question: Would I run into any issues upgrading to a 17x8 wheel on my 09 Impreza?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 11:44
|
|
|
Jamal/CT, should I buy these: http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22885 "5. 05 STI aluminum front lower control arms with stock end links $200"
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 23:13
|
|
|
jamal posted:an 18g is probably the smallest turbo worth upgrading to. Blouch has a ball bearing version with a billet wheel called the 18g-xt-r, which combined with an equal length header would have awesome spool and be capable of ~340-350whp. Interesting. How long until poo poo starts to break on the 5MT and 2.0L when you break 300whp? Better to do a straight engine build before bothering with a bigger turbo? If I do this, I'm going to start piecing together parts over time to stay within my budget and I hate half-assing poo poo, but also don't have tons of money to burn...
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 23:33
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Jamal/CT, should I buy these: yes. I usually see them for more like $300. kylej posted:Interesting. How long until poo poo starts to break on the 5MT and 2.0L when you break 300whp? Better to do a straight engine build before bothering with a bigger turbo? If I do this, I'm going to start piecing together parts over time to stay within my budget and I hate half-assing poo poo, but also don't have tons of money to burn... I wouldn't worry too much at that level. The one thing about going with a little bigger turbo on a 2.0 is that it doesn't make the torque a 2.5l avcs wrx does which is much nicer on the transmission. I've also pretty much never seen a 2.0 blow a ringland like the 2.5s do. What year wrx btw? the 04-05 (maybe 03 too?) got improved crankshaft oiling and wider gears.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 23:43
|
|
|
jamal posted:yes. I usually see them for more like $300. Just to clarify, the extra width isn't a big deal? My axles and suspension wont cry?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2012 23:51
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Just to clarify, the extra width isn't a big deal? My axles and suspension wont cry? don't you have a sedan? no extra width, just a stiffer arm and more caster. although even on a wagon they work fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2012 00:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 08:44 |
|
|
jamal posted:don't you have a sedan? no extra width, just a stiffer arm and more caster. although even on a wagon they work fine. Sedan. TOOT TOOT all aboard the castor train. Going to flip those fuckers like CT says to as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2012 00:10
|
|