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Just finished off this chap. First thing i've painted after finishing the first 1000 points of my Grey Knights army. I really love this model, i think it's one of the best sculpts GW have done:      I think with my next army i'm going to start putting some effort into making interesting bases. Thikning of starting Word Bearers when 6th drops so i've got plenty of time to plan something cool out. before that i've got my Mad Max inspired Necromunda gang and another 1000 points of Grey Knights to paint. Better stock up on paint before they rename them all X12 or Obscure bronze or whatever the gently caress.
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Mar 19, 2012 13:23
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:15 |
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Man, chainmail underwear must ride like a bitch
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Mar 19, 2012 13:28
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That looks great, The Heckler. Nice job filling in the postules and stuff. I did something similar for my Carnival of Chaos Big Clown and cut away the horns and spiky bitz. I love this model. Edit: And you sculpted the face, holy poo poo! 
Buffalo squeeze fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 14:01
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I need some advice! I've got a Plague Furnace and it looks a bit ridiculous to paint (not my photo): It's pretty clear that painting most of it before I put it together would be smart, but what would the best way of going about this be? I don't have an airbrush, so I'll be undercoating it just with a can of spray primer. Should I try this on the sprue, separate pieces off the sprue or even partly construct the model then spray and paint it? I guess I should masking tape joins, as I can't be that accurate with spraying on primer.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:29
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The Supreme Court posted:I need some advice! I've got a Plague Furnace and it looks a bit ridiculous to paint (not my photo): I have one on sprue (and another NIB for a Bell) that I need to assemble very soon as well. I think the best thing to do is to assemble it in logical pieces and paint each piece separately, then superglue the thing together and fix up the paint job and finish details.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:41
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Flipswitch posted:My first layer consisted of me looking at at it and wondering whether I'd actually applied the brush to the loving thing, and I thought painting a pale grey over black was bad. Layer five and it's getting there steadily, this paint seems wierdly shiny though, hoping dullcoat fixes that when this is done. I think the glossiness is kind of what VGC paints are like. I read in here somewhere that it has to do with whatever they put in it to make it more durable than their model paints (which are, indeed, very fragile holy poo poo). Dullcoat should fix it up though.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:43
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The Supreme Court posted:It's pretty clear that painting most of it before I put it together would be smart, but what would the best way of going about this be? I don't have an airbrush, so I'll be undercoating it just with a can of spray primer. Should I try this on the sprue, separate pieces off the sprue or even partly construct the model then spray and paint it? I guess I should masking tape joins, as I can't be that accurate with spraying on primer. I'll let other give you specific advice, but I've found that unless you need straight lines, the best way to cover bits you don't want spraypainted is to use blu-tac (or poster putty or whatever you call it). You can sculpt it to cover exactly what you need, and it just peels off. EDIT: This is pretty much what I would do too; Phyresis posted:I have one on sprue (and another NIB for a Bell) that I need to assemble very soon as well. I think the best thing to do is to assemble it in logical pieces and paint each piece separately, then superglue the thing together and fix up the paint job and finish details.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:43
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EDIT: whoops, double post
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Mar 19, 2012 14:44
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I actually use silly putty when I need to mask stuff on a model. Poster tack will work too, but silly putty is more pliable and easy to work with.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:48
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Phyresis posted:I have one on sprue (and another NIB for a Bell) that I need to assemble very soon as well. I think the best thing to do is to assemble it in logical pieces and paint each piece separately, then superglue the thing together and fix up the paint job and finish details. That sounds like a good plan and what I'd been leaning towards. I'll do that, thanks! I'd be interested to see how yours go, plus I'll post up my (hopefully not too disastrous) results. Gravitas Shortfall posted:I'll let other give you specific advice, but I've found that unless you need straight lines, the best way to cover bits you don't want spraypainted is to use blu-tac (or poster putty or whatever you call it). You can sculpt it to cover exactly what you need, and it just peels off.
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Mar 19, 2012 14:54
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While I think the newer GW plastics are really gorgeous overall (big whfb monsters, ships from dreadfleet, etc) the sculptors need to calm the gently caress down a bit. You dont need literally hundreds of sweeping thin plastic pieces that stick out from every angle of the model. I love painting, but I kind of shudder at the idea of painting that screaming bell or the dreadfleet ships, unless I was just doing something like washes or dipping them. Holy poo poo thats too much detail. They look great when painted though!
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Mar 19, 2012 15:36
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PaintVagrant posted:While I think the newer GW plastics are really gorgeous overall (big whfb monsters, ships from dreadfleet, etc) the sculptors need to calm the gently caress down a bit. You dont need literally hundreds of sweeping thin plastic pieces that stick out from every angle of the model. One large model is a project, an army of tanks seems like a bigger ordeal to me (and that's not even considering the small models to ride around inside them), I start to get fatigued just thinking about it.
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Mar 19, 2012 15:59
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Crossposting from the Infinity thread: Had a chance to work on my Qapu Khalki list this weekend and settled on a Desert Storm kind of camo color scheme. I think I might still go back and add so unit markings or something to the Iguana and I think I'll find a different fig to be the tag pilot.     As suggested, I plan to go back and paint the "eyes" blue to add a cool color to the Iguana and I think I might rebase it since the camo is doing too good of a job blending into the scenery.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:05
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My necrosphinx was one of the most painful things I have ever painted, and when push comes to shove it is nowhere near as insane as the new VC stuff.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:14
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I think its a direct result of digital sculpting, and not having to actually hand-make all those little details.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:15
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Buffalo squeeze posted:
Not exactly. the mask was missing from mine, so i took a slightly glue-melted Empire Flagellant head, then sculpted a fat neck and double chin for him. My inspiration was this: 
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Mar 19, 2012 16:17
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frest posted:I do approve of the fantasy trend to give every army one large centerpiece model, but you're right that some of it is gilding the lily. I've seen a really painstakingly detailed necrosphinx and vampire coven on display, it's a little weird because they're so much more detailed than the rest of the army (especially those two undead armies). I really don't mind painting tanks to be honest. The main colours are easy enough to block in if you have an air brush and then it's on to weathering, which is fun on a bun.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:19
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Although I love seeing Bachtere paint up those bad boys, I kind of agree that they are getting over the top. I think that they hit the sweet spot a few years ago when they were putting out things like the High Elf Drafon/Griffon, the Stegadon, and the Steam Tank. Those were nice, big models with a lot of detail that weren't overwhelming. Then they just sort of.... kept going. The Vampire Coven thing is amazing, but it has a crazy number of pieces and details, and trying to imagine actually using it is insane.
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Mar 19, 2012 16:24
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Too much detail? Your poor babies.
Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 16:35
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Speaking of too much detail and being a baby:     
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Mar 19, 2012 17:12
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some WIP poo poo: 
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Mar 19, 2012 18:07
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Zombie #246 posted:Wait so, it's actually something you drink out of? Scenery is my next real hobby project. I do commission work most of the year while away from home and only have a few weeks a year to work on my own minis, but here's some terrain stuff. A battlefield shot showing the Tyranid beer tower in scale:  The "Imperial Brewery," as we call it:  Brand-new gaming mat. Haven't seen it in person yet, brother took the photo.  Commission-cut MDF for fancy, durable terrain:  Showing how it matches the crappy existing terrain so it can all be re-based:  Really excited to have some time to work on terrain. I'm pretty much done buying minis for my armies so making a pretty board is my next goal.
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Mar 19, 2012 18:24
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What are the walls you are using? That table looks fantastic.
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Mar 19, 2012 19:35
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The Supreme Court posted:I need some advice! I've got a Plague Furnace and it looks a bit ridiculous to paint (not my photo): I dont know if the GW site has taken it down but there is a pretty good painting guide for the screaming bell step by step. Most of it should apply to the plague furnace.
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Mar 19, 2012 19:37
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Drumstick posted:What are the walls you are using? That table looks fantastic. From here: http://www.warmill.co.uk/Security_Compound/cat814919_982862.aspx
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Mar 19, 2012 19:43
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I dont know if the GW site has taken it down but there is a pretty good painting guide for the screaming bell step by step. Most of it should apply to the plague furnace. It's been taken down, all I could find were broken links 
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Mar 19, 2012 20:33
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BlackIronHeart posted:From here: http://www.warmill.co.uk/Security_Compound/cat814919_982862.aspx Thanks! They have great looking terrain for a good price, I'm impressed.
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Mar 19, 2012 20:55
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Swissar Swigelf has an awesome guide on painting that Skaven model: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/how-paint-skaven-screaming-bell-warhammer-fantasy
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Mar 19, 2012 21:38
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Phyresis posted:I have one on sprue (and another NIB for a Bell) that I need to assemble very soon as well. I think the best thing to do is to assemble it in logical pieces and paint each piece separately, then superglue the thing together and fix up the paint job and finish details. Skaven have 2 models that you pretty much have to put together into big pieces, paint, then fully assemble (PF/Bell and the Doomwheel). Basically get it into big chunks, prime everything, paint everything, test fit to find the points you want to glue, scrape off the paint that covers those spots, and glue em together.
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Mar 19, 2012 21:58
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Verdugo posted:Swissar Swigelf has an awesome guide on painting that Skaven model: I never get tired of this dude.
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Mar 19, 2012 22:11
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The Supreme Court posted:It's been taken down, all I could find were broken links With luck they may re-upload once the new paints come out. A number of the articles taken down include how to make, not just how to paint, so I got angry people in my shop :C
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Mar 19, 2012 23:27
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So a gnoll, a ghost, and a worm walk into a bar... I got the three reaper "bones" figs I ordered last week. I don't have any experience whatsoever with non-metal minis, so I guess I can't really say how these stack up against other non-metals. The first thing I noticed was that they are super flexible. I mean, I didn't expect them to be like metal, but even that worm fig (3/4" thick) has a significant amount of flex (squeezing it in my hand, I can easily move the head towards the butt by a half inch.) Not to say they're rubber-like, but they're definitely not what I'm used to in that regard. For instance, the chain of the gnoll's flail is so flexible you can bend it around and hook the business end on to the handle. The ghost I can literally fold in half with his chest touching the gravestone. I mean, not that you would want to, but you can. My concern in that area is that being that flexible, the paint might be prone to chipping or flaking off, unless it somehow maintains flexibility? Again, I've only worked with metal, but from what I've seen, if you bend a bit of metal (like a sword) after it's been painted, you can pretty much guarantee that there will be paint chipping off. They're a nice clean white, so as long as the claims of not needing primer are valid, that's great and all. Detail is, in a word, fair. The scale mail on the gnoll is nice and crisp, you can see a couple stress cracks in his belt, the skin on the worm is nice and wrinkly with all his teeth nice and defined. The hand and face on the ghost seem a little less well-defined. It's sort of hard to tell, it's like all the details are there, they're just...soft somehow. While not large or pronounced, you can definitely see where the seam in the mold ran. I have yet to try to smooth that out, but with how soft this stuff is, I can't imagine doing anything but smoothing it out with a blade. There don't appear to be any actual errors with any of the figures: no bubbles, mis-aligned bits, missing things, etc. Aside from the seams, they're about as ready to paint as they'll ever be. On a side note, the worm and the ghost are stamped copyright 2008 while the gnoll is 2010. I'm wondering if they actually used a previous sculpt for the first two, in which case I might try to track one down and do a side-by-side. I guess I'm going to go throw some paint at these and see what happens. I'll bring more pictures. e: Oh, and this time I got some sort of un-named brownish reddish color? I really love that they throw in the promo paints, but this one literally has no name on it, just "sample"  Also a reapercon 2012 pen. v  v
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 23:55
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Bad Munki posted:
Is it like a dark fleshtone? Sort of like bronzed flesh or snakebite leather? That is the one I got last time.
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Mar 20, 2012 00:07
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Bad Munki posted:So a gnoll, a ghost, and a worm walk into a bar... Just a heads up, all the Bones models were first metal, then pre-painted soft plastic and now resin. http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/worm/sku-up/03009 http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/worm/sku-up/20018 http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/worm/sku-up/77006
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Mar 20, 2012 00:07
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just a heads up, all the Bones models were first metal, then pre-painted soft plastic and now resin. Ah, there we go. Bummer, though, you don't get the tail section with the new one. On the other hand: $3 vs $30. Dominion posted:Is it like a dark fleshtone? Sort of like bronzed flesh or snakebite leather? That is the one I got last time. Yeah, I think that might be the one. If I continue on my current path I'll be half way to a full set of paints by this time next year. 
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Mar 20, 2012 00:10
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Does anyone know of some good conversion parts for a disc or chariot of Tzeentch? I'm aware of the GW provided disc below but if I could find an alternate arcane platform or chariot that would preferable.
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Mar 20, 2012 01:47
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I did the bell, censer, carriage and crews separately as subassemblies, but I was also magnetizing mine at the same time so by and large i didn't need to worry about gluing painted pieces together. Still the only really fiddly bit will be sticking the censer into the arch of the carriage properly and there's plenty of flex in those pieces to pop it in once it's painted
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Mar 20, 2012 01:49
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Red Shoe posted:Does anyone know of some good conversion parts for a disc or chariot of Tzeentch? I'm aware of the GW provided disc below but if I could find an alternate arcane platform or chariot that would preferable. what about the chaos mortal lord on disc? 
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Mar 20, 2012 01:51
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I built a disc myself by gluing two small flying bases back-to-back and surrounding it from spikes taken from various sources. I put a Chaos icon in the centre from the Chaos vehicle sprue and etched designs into the disc that I blended washes over to make it look irridescent.
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Mar 20, 2012 02:07
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:15 |
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You could try to get your hands on this lovely piece of metal. It's an old very limited edition though, so it'll probably cost a bit. I got one off ebay a couple of weeks ago.   http://www.solegends.com/citle/citle2000/promotions/pr412tzeentch/index.htm
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Mar 20, 2012 02:13
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