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Motronic posted:Or put the loving cotter pin in like you're supposed to. How exactly would the cotter pin have stopped the end of the axle from blowing off?
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Mar 18, 2012 03:09
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Sadi posted:No cotter pins on my accord, you had a little valley you are supposed to dent the nut into. Oh, an Accord. Yes, no pin. And it's not a dent. You need to stake the poo poo out of it. Or that happens. Use a good punch or pointy drift pin and make sure that poo poo is in there.
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Mar 18, 2012 03:10
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OneStopShop posted:How exactly would the cotter pin have stopped the end of the axle from blowing off? By keeping it from being loaded in the wrong plane of motion (at an angle/getting tossed around) after the bolt backing off.
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Mar 18, 2012 03:11
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Sir Cornelius posted:Don't be that harsh. I've wrenched your vehicles in an absolutely non-sober just-awoken Sunday state of mind. There's been incidents and accidents. We speak not of the brake incident. Also, you're not Canadian.
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Mar 18, 2012 04:02
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KozmoNaut posted:We speak not of the brake incident. I think we need to hear about the brake incident now 
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Mar 18, 2012 04:13
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It's a mechanical miracle that I made it home without the wheel completely coming off! I thought I had a seized caliper on that corner; I didn't know anything was up until I heard the rotor scraping the caliper as I turned into my driveway. It's been parked for a month, I finally get the time to come home and replace it and -whoa- things are way worse than I originally thought. No cotter pins with VW VR6 axle nuts and the voices from the vortex say you need anything from 180ft/lbs to 230ft/lbs to "as tight as you can get it" to torque them down. 155lb me standing on the end of a 18" breaker bar is 232ft/lbs, so I thought I'd be good. I did both sides, and the nut on the left is still tight as it ever was. I guess Too Tight = pop the end of the axle off while Too Loose = nut backs off, gets some leverage and pops the end of the axle off. I should probably get my info out of a book instead of second-hand through the forums, I should probably get a proper torque wrench, and I should probably get some scratch-off tickets because I'm drat lucky to have gotten home.
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Mar 18, 2012 04:16
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That goes through some variety of unit bearing, right? You really, really need to use a torque wrench on those. Anyone who says you don't really shouldn't be giving mechanical advise. Too little torque = it can back off, and your bearings will not live a long and happy life as they won't have enough preload. Too much torque = axle shaft can break, and your bearings will live an even shorter life as they will have too much preload, resulting in excessive heat generation, detempering, grease breakdown, and eventual bearing destruction. I have seen overtorqued bearings come in with red high-temp axle grease so overheated and filled with overheated pulverized bearing material that it looked almost like gold antiseize. What was left of the bearings ranged from yellow to blued. I'll be the first to admit that I have set an axle shaft nut on a unit bearing vehicle to "good n tight" torque spec, but it was only to get off the trail, limp my jeep home, and repair it properly.
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Mar 18, 2012 04:30
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Beach Bum posted:I think we need to hear about the brake incident now No, I'm sorry, but it must remain a secret.
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Mar 18, 2012 10:08
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KozmoNaut posted:No, I'm sorry, but it must remain a secret. If they get me sufficiently drunk, I might tell them anyway. Just go ahead. Only thing I have for my defense, is that even drunk and unexpectedly torn from my bed, I really can't take a Fiat Panda Diesel serious. P.S. If you do this, I'll just repost a picture of your Bandit600 brake fluid. "Fluid" is a kind way to describe that somewhat liquid slime. Yes, I still have it available. I use it to scare the kids. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Mar 18, 2012 11:38
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Little did Kozmonaut and Cornelius know their escapades were captured on film. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkaBgKC0kdU
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Mar 18, 2012 12:05
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Ola posted:Little did Kozmonaut and Cornelius know their escapades were captured on film. Close, but actually it was more like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOOUqlvqS6g
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Mar 18, 2012 12:10
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Sir Cornelius posted:If they get me sufficiently drunk, I might tell them anyway. Just go ahead. Oh alright. Cornelius helped me change the brake pads on my Panda and I tried them out in the parking lot, everything seemed to be in working order. But on the way home as I was stopping at a red light, the brakes went *BANG* and started to grind horribly, while I lost about 50% braking power. I limped it back to Cornelius' place, but he was off somewhere in a huff, ranting about something I guess. So I borrowed his jack and pulled the brakes apart again, only to notice that one of the pads had been put in backwards. I should have taken a picture, as the shim is currently completely annihilated and the back plate has a big-rear end groove in it. Cornelius came back, we put everything back together again and wowed never to speak of it, due to sheer embarrasment. RE: the brake fluid, that one's on the previous owner of the bike, not me.
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Mar 18, 2012 13:46
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I weren't awake goddammit and it's not like failing brakes are in any way even close to dangerous in a Fiat Panda. Fine D.O.T. 5.1 to the left. 
Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Mar 18, 2012 14:21
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Sir Cornelius posted:There's been incidents and accidents.
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Mar 18, 2012 15:29
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sharkytm posted:Hints and allegations? Yeah 
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Mar 18, 2012 18:31
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 '66 MGB. They want $4500. The part that looks like a trench of rust was the passenger side castle rail, which is responsible for holding this monocoque body together. The round thing bolted to it is the end of the center crossmember.
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Mar 18, 2012 19:42
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  Brake rotors on a Hyundai Elantra. The first one cracked using the rotor-removing threaded hole (the second one snapped off the bolt), and the second rotor stripped both holes, so I cut/chiseled the face off, and popped the rest of the rotor off the hub with a hammer. What a royal pain in the rear end. I also broke my 1/2" breaker bar, but it's a Craftsman, so I'll be getting a new one this afternoon 
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Mar 18, 2012 22:49
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sharkytm posted:Hints and allegations? Hey, hallelujah!
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Mar 19, 2012 04:29
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PitViper posted:I also broke my 1/2" breaker bar, but it's a Craftsman, so I'll be getting a new one this afternoon I have been trying to break my Husky breaker bar for 4 years now. Still not successful. I put 800 or more foot-pounds on it at one point (big rear end cheater pipe) and the only thing I broke was a 1/2 drive extension. They have lifetime warranty too, and there is a home depot closer to me than the nearest Sears. I'm a fan.
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Mar 19, 2012 04:37
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Rime posted:
Those flaky bits have paint on top of them, that can't be rust. Offer $5K before this baby finds another home!
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Mar 19, 2012 08:31
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You can buy a new MGB body for like £4500 from british heritage over here, makes me laugh when I see rusty heaps with new paint for like £6k
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Mar 19, 2012 10:33
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My old roommate snapped a u-joint on his Jeep...just normal driving without any maintenance, naturally. He never breaks down on a trail, always 30 minutes from home on the interstate. Oh, and I traded my own Cherokee for a 2010 Elantra "Blue" with 30 thousand miles on it. The salesman came back after inspect my Jeep and says, "ummm, my guy says your motor is blown." My reaction: "Oh, so that's what's wrong with it. Proceed." anonumos fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Mar 19, 2012 |
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Mar 19, 2012 15:54
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Cakefool posted:You can buy a new MGB body for like £4500 from british heritage over here, makes me laugh when I see rusty heaps with new paint for like £6k More like £7600, but yeah. There's some insane prices for these things in western canada.
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Mar 19, 2012 17:01
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thecobra posted:This is too funny not to post. Idiot A is wearing a Paddy's Pub shirt, so he's okay with me and that one LMNOP guy kinda looks like Fragmaster.
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Mar 20, 2012 02:46
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Dead Blue Sky posted:Idiot A is wearing a Paddy's Pub shirt, so he's okay with me and that one LMNOP guy kinda looks like Fragmaster. Well maybe this will change your mind, haha. http://youtu.be/lcs8GbzDZD4 http://youtu.be/gARnphXuSqQ (Two views, first from the guy that owns the place) I love that this is what he decides to do AFTER getting his car "road worthy." thecobra fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Mar 20, 2012 |
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Mar 20, 2012 03:02
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The best part is the response video from the guy with the mini, surprise surprise it didn't make it.
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Mar 20, 2012 03:14
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horrible driver failure I am hoping to get the 5.2/NV3500 swapped in and the motor rebuilt before it becomes a horrible mechanical failure. It hydrolocked while barely above idle RPM and only cylinders 1/6 had any significant amount of water in them, so there is hope if I replace the bearings and rods.
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Mar 20, 2012 03:27
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kastein posted:Story. Now. Also, way to go Ken!
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Mar 20, 2012 03:28
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hitze posted:The best part is the response video from the guy with the mini, surprise surprise it didn't make it. Didn't even see that. He makes it sound unexpected too...Oh you know, tried to drive my rolled mini home, poo poo broke, no way we could have seen that.
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Mar 20, 2012 03:38
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Boat posted:Story. that's pretty much the story I was at Badlands ORP in Attica IN with my jeep club. I am not a local there, I am from Massachusetts... so I didn't know anything about "The Tubes". Someone suggested I go through them, so I said what the hell, why not, I towed it here on a dolly, what's the worst that can happen? Answer: go in nose first, not realizing how deep it is and how it's drat impossible to back up after you're committed... hydrolock at idle while about to try and reverse up a bit to get further from the water. I put the clutch in, went to shift... and it stopped. Random bystanders saw fit to tell me about six times that they didn't think it hydrolocked and that I should try again, I informed them that it did, in fact, hydrolock. Someone else dragged it out with a snatch strap. I pulled the plugs (1 and 6 were soaking wet) and spun it over with the starter, it shot water about 15 feet. Once it stopped spraying water, put the plugs back in, held the pedal to the floor (flood-clear mode) and cranked it over till it started to catch. I am still driving it for local errands and stuff, but keeping a very close eye on the oil pressure, a very close ear on how the motor sounds, and I have a 5.2L V8 and an NV3500 waiting to go in to replace the 4.0L I6 and AX15. I've been meaning to do this swap for a while so once I collect the remaining parts, I'm gonna do it whether the motor still runs or not. If it comes out in still running condition I'll swap the connecting rods and maybe pistons from the original engine (mounting bosses broke off the block, it still ran great) into it and use it for something else. </  >
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Mar 20, 2012 03:44
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kastein posted:that's pretty much the story I don't think that that was enough to kill a 4.0.
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Mar 20, 2012 04:02
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EightBit posted:I don't think that that was enough to kill a 4.0. It's not. kastein, a compression test will tell all. If #1 and #6 are significantly lower, then you might want to give it attention sometime in the next year or two (any other engine and I'd say it needs attention a lot sooner). It's a 4.0 though, one of the slightly more durable engines made in our lifetimes.
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Mar 20, 2012 04:15
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I know it wasn't enough to kill it, but I'd rather play it safe, no sense wasting a good 4.0 block, especially when I'm pulling it at some point in the near future anyways. Every hydrolock I've ever seen resulted in an explosion within a few thousand miles. Granted, most of them weren't while it was puttering along at like 800rpm in neutral. Even the idiot who stuffed his jeep into a few feet of water at like 40mph with the engine turning 3k+ rpm got another few hundred miles out of it before it shot a rod through the block.
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Mar 20, 2012 04:25
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kastein posted:I know it wasn't enough to kill it, but I'd rather play it safe, no sense wasting a good 4.0 block, especially when I'm pulling it at some point in the near future anyways. In a friends Grand with a 5.2 we hit a deeper than expected puddle at 80km and hydrolocked it at 2500+ rpm. This was at 3 am and no one was anywhere close. We waited for the water to bleed past rings / valves / valve seals and crank it every 20 minutes. Nothing to pull the plugs with in the bush, whoops. Started after 2 hours of crank - wait, crank - wait. 14K km later and it's still running fine! Also, before you drop in your donor 5.2, do the intake plenum fix while the engine is on the stand / ground.
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Mar 20, 2012 07:30
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Rime posted:More like £7600, but yeah. There's some insane prices for these things in western canada.  not sure where I got £4500 from, even the cheapest body is £5750(mini) & I'd convinced myself they did the spitfire & gt6 as well. Wishfull thinking? Anyway £8k for a new mgbgt shell is a bargain considering what a proper body resto costs.
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Mar 20, 2012 08:57
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kastein posted:</
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Mar 20, 2012 09:44
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kastein posted:I know it wasn't enough to kill it, but I'd rather play it safe, no sense wasting a good 4.0 block, especially when I'm pulling it at some point in the near future anyways. I hydrolocked the ea81 in my Subaru at decently high RPMs. Cranked the water past the rings. Lots more cranking it fired up and I drove it home. Changed the oil, and it's been fine for many thousand miles. Good compression and nice oil pressure. Oil analysis came back from blackstone, and they didn't say it was eating itself. I guess I've found an engine tougher than a jeep 4.0...
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Mar 20, 2012 13:53
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EightBit posted:I don't think that that was enough to kill a 4.0. It certainly isn't. I am pretty sure I posted pictures way back in this thread from by buddy who hydro-locked his 4.0 Cherokee. The pictures were two rods that were bent AND twisted, but the bitch still drove home 40+ miles on the Interstate with a slight knock.
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Mar 20, 2012 14:47
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DefaultPeanut posted:In a friends Grand with a 5.2 we hit a deeper than expected puddle at 80km and hydrolocked it at 2500+ rpm. This was at 3 am and no one was anywhere close. We waited for the water to bleed past rings / valves / valve seals and crank it every 20 minutes. Nothing to pull the plugs with in the bush, whoops. Started after 2 hours of crank - wait, crank - wait. 14K km later and it's still running fine! Thanks - definitely will. I will be cleaning it up and regasketing anything leaky before it goes in, that is now on the list. Fire Storm posted:Out of curiosity, did you change the oil? Nope. Checked it for water right after getting it out and it was clean, been keeping a close eye on it since. No emulsified oil anywhere. I probably should but I keep forgetting to. chrisgt posted:I hydrolocked the ea81 in my Subaru at decently high RPMs. Cranked the water past the rings. Lots more cranking it fired up and I drove it home. Changed the oil, and it's been fine for many thousand miles. Good compression and nice oil pressure. Think again... This is my friend Adam's 2001 4.0. Developed a bad knock on the way to rausch creek last fall.  Still ran and drove. That is some of the oil (putting it nicely) in the #5 cyl.
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Mar 20, 2012 15:58
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