|
Imaduck, I'm so sorry to hear that. Just know that you tried your best and he had a great life while he was with you. 
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2012 02:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:52 |
|
|
I'm so sorry, you tried so hard and he sure was a cutie.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2012 14:39
|
|
|
We just found a couple of fleas on our dogs, and so I'm kind of worried that my piggy is going to get them too. Is this possible, or am I just being stupid? Also, if it is, how can I prevent this?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2012 07:47
|
|
|
Sometimes when we've just gotten a batch of fresh hay the larger one of my pigs will just go wild and stuff his face. After pigging out he'll sleep like a log and then later he'll stand in a corner making a slightly distressed sound while building a mountain of poop. I used to  at this behavior but then I realized I do the exact same thing at taco night.
cat with hands fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Feb 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2012 11:40
|
|
|
WindowLiquor posted:We just found a couple of fleas on our dogs, and so I'm kind of worried that my piggy is going to get them too. Is this possible, or am I just being stupid? Also, if it is, how can I prevent this?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2012 12:19
|
|
|
My condolences, Imaduck. It sucks so much when you lose a pet like that. Now some questions for everyone: My girlfriend really wants to get two guinea pigs. We had a rat who lived for just over three years and was really awesome but I've never owned pigs before and I'm having trouble finding any sort of definitive information on what to do to make sure you're giving your pigs the best life possible. First question - we have decided to get Rex pigs from a local breeder. Are there any known problems with this breed or anything like that? Second - would a hutch like this be appropriate to keep two pigs indoors? We have a balcony but no garden so they would be indoor pigs with time each day to roam around on the floor. Third - while I was looking for somewhere local to buy timothy hay I found one pet store selling Oxbow brand products with a blurb that said: "...To avoid painful gastro-intestinal imbalances & maintain good health 75% of a rabbit or guinea pigs’ diet should be fibrous hay. The other 25% formulated pellets, that leaves 5% for little treats. Seeds, nuts, corn and grain mixes are always a no-no..." How true are these ratios? Everything I've previously read seemed to say that you should feed your pigs lots of fresh vegies every day as well as the hay. Also, how useful is something like pet grass? Would it be worth growing a few tubs to include in the pig's diet? Any other general hints and tips would be hugely appreciated. I'm kind of terrified of getting new pets and would hate to do something dumb and make them sick or unhappy. Also if anyone is from Melbourne and has recommendations for local breeders or suppliers that would be great. edit - here's some pics of my old rat, Mr Rattus, for the non-guinea pig people in the crowd:  
cyberia fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Feb 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2012 04:43
|
|
|
My pigs eat about 60% kleenmama bluegrass hay 25% assorted veggies and about 30% pellets. This adds up to 115% because they are fat fucks. That hutch is pretty cool, it might be a little bit on the small side. Be sure to give them time to run around. I've never seen pet grass before, but we will get a tray of wheatgrass and they will go to town on it. PS: If you get them really fancy hay never run out, they will probably revolt.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2012 05:07
|
|
|
Check out https://www.cavycages.com for cage ideas and instructions on how to make your own. I guarantee it would be cheaper overall than buying something premade and you'd be able to make it big enough for two pigs. And if you want to be pro from day one you could even make fleece bedding.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2012 13:49
|
|
|
cyberia posted:My girlfriend really wants to get two guinea pigs. We had a rat who lived for just over three years and was really awesome but I've never owned pigs before and I'm having trouble finding any sort of definitive information on what to do to make sure you're giving your pigs the best life possible. The best place for info is guinealynx.com. I think there's also a cliffs notes version on the first page of this thread. cyberia posted:First question - we have decided to get Rex pigs from a local breeder. Are there any known problems with this breed or anything like that? I don't know if rexes are one of the varieties prone to problems, but please don't patronize a breeder. Find a reputable rescue in your area. Failing that, check the humane society or Craigslist. If there's a breeder in your area, the shelters and craigslist are bound to be flooded with their rejects and abandoned pigs. The folks on guinealynx will fall all over themselves to help you get a pig responsibly. cyberia posted:Second - would a hutch like this be appropriate to keep two pigs indoors? We have a balcony but no garden so they would be indoor pigs with time each day to roam around on the floor. I wouldn't use a hutch like that. As someone said, look at guineapigcages.com, or guinealynx. cyberia posted:Third - while I was looking for somewhere local to buy timothy hay I found one pet store selling Oxbow brand products with a blurb that said: "...To avoid painful gastro-intestinal imbalances & maintain good health 75% of a rabbit or guinea pigs’ diet should be fibrous hay. The other 25% formulated pellets, that leaves 5% for little treats. Seeds, nuts, corn and grain mixes are always a no-no..." Unless your pig is very young, very old, sick, or otherwise having trouble keeping weight on, I wouldn't bother with pellets at all, except maybe as an occasional treat (maybe once per month or something). Oxbow is a pretty good hay, KM's hayloft is better, but it looks like you're not in the US, so things may be different where you are. The right veggies are great, but be careful with what you give them - the wrong ones can cause problems or even be toxic. Check guinealynx for details, but you're safe starting out with cilantro and bell peppers. Just make sure they don't have chemicals on them. I'm not familiar with pet grass. cyberia posted:Any other general hints and tips would be hugely appreciated. I'm kind of terrified of getting new pets and would hate to do something dumb and make them sick or unhappy. Also if anyone is from Melbourne and has recommendations for local breeders or suppliers that would be great. They're great little critters, but you have to enjoy them on their terms. Also, you have to be REALLY observant to see when something is going wrong. By the time it's obvious that they're sick, it's often too late. Weigh them weekly (at least) to watch for weight loss, check their teeth, watch for signs of lethargy, etc. Also, make sure there's a GOOD piggie-vet in your area before getting a pig, and plan to pay them lots of money over the years, starting with a well-piggie checkup as soon as you get your animal(s). Peristalsis fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Feb 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2012 15:20
|
|
|
cyberia posted:Any other general hints and tips would be hugely appreciated. I'm kind of terrified of getting new pets and would hate to do something dumb and make them sick or unhappy. Also if anyone is from Melbourne and has recommendations for local breeders or suppliers that would be great. Here's a couple of Australian rescues listed on GuineaLynx, who should be able to help you out with more local info than I can: ACS (Australian Cavy Sanctuary) fizzygirl28@hotmail.com 0435 054 378 Contact: Jessica Gold Coast Guinea Pig Rescue Gold Coast, Qld, Australia alex@goldcoastguineapigrescue.org Mobile: 0408 263 455 Contact: Alex
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2012 02:28
|
|
|
Thanks for the info, Peristalsis. Can you give any specifics as to why you wouldn't use those cages I linked? The main attraction for me is that they're on a stand so the pigs wouldn't be on the floor and they'd get more light and airflow and attention. They also seem reasonably big (one of the photos has 3 or 4 rabbits in the hutch) for two pigs. I've never seen the grid-style cages that are advertised on guinealynx in Australia but I'm sure I'd be able to find them somewhere if they're absolutely the best type of cage to get.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2012 04:39
|
|
|
cyberia posted:Thanks for the info, Peristalsis. Those cages are way too small. That picture with the rabbits is awfully misleading; those are babies, they have no room for toys or hideys or even enough room to move around more than a hop forward and back, and they would ultimately kill each other if confined in that little space. Also notice how the very bottom of the pan is much smaller than the top of the wire part? Their measurement is along the wire part. That cage is about half the size you need. As indicated on http://www.guineapigcages.com/ the current recommendation for guinea pig space usage is 7.5 square feet for one or two pigs (non crazy US measurements, at least 60cm by 121 cm). This is a recommendation based on about 15 years of experience in the US rescue/fancier community which seems to result in the happiest pigs, and also seems to reduce the incidence of common diseases such as obesity, bumblefoot, and anal impaction. Those hutch-style cages are sized based on space requirements for laboratory animals developed in the 50s which state 2 square feet per animal. That recommendation is the absolute minimum they could shrink the habitat before health and behavioral effects started becoming too pronounced to make the animals useful in research. Remember most lab animals were sacrificed at under 6 months of age; so you aren't looking at a habitat which is conducive to a long and healthy life, there. cyberia posted:Third - while I was looking for somewhere local to buy timothy hay I found one pet store selling Oxbow brand products with a blurb that said: "...To avoid painful gastro-intestinal imbalances & maintain good health 75% of a rabbit or guinea pigs’ diet should be fibrous hay. The other 25% formulated pellets, that leaves 5% for little treats. Seeds, nuts, corn and grain mixes are always a no-no..." A diet of 25% pellets is probably too many pellets. As the others have said, fortified pellets are usually not required except for babies and elderly animals if you provide a varied vegetable diet which provides a wide enough range of nutrients, and are sure to include veggies which provide their daily dose of vitamin C. I and many others do not regularly feed pellets; I give them about once every month or so, as a treat. I feed about 80-90% hay and the rest veggies. My vet even bitches about me feeding that many pellets; she would prefer they didn't get them at all. See http://www.guinealynx.info/diet.html for more information. Pellets were also developed a long time ago for lab animals with an emphasis on cost reduction and getting the animals to sacrifice weight as quickly as possible. Again, not designed to ensure long life with minimal health problems! Prior to that, pet guinea pigs and rabbits ate nothing but grass hay and veggies. Purina saw pet owners as a new income source and went on an incredible marketing campaign to get pellets made an "essential" part of the diet. Overall the lifespan of guinea pigs kept with "normal" husbandry is about 3-5 years. Folks who follow the Guinea Lynx husbandry recommendations typically see 7-8 years or longer; in 10 years of rescue I've rarely had a death under 6 and I've had several 9 year olds. You said you wanted to provide the best life possible - follow the Guinea Lynx and Cavy Cage recommendations, and you will. 
alucinor fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Mar 1, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2012 13:07
|
|
|
The one thing you have to keep your eye on if you're going pellet-free is vitamin C. Luckily, it's easy to ensure your pigs get enough, just serve a little fruit and lots of dark, leafy greens. But yeah, enough veggies and hay and they won't miss pellets much at all. As for housing, seconded C&C. Buy one of those folding banquet tables to put it on if you want to raise them up, an eight-foot table will hold a 2x6 cage perfectly. The pigs will adore having lots of extra room to run around in, and a bigger cage means you have room to expand your herd if you want to. More social interactions = better than. C&C is easy and fun to build, easy to maintain, and in a lot of cases they're cheaper than manufactured cages. And yes, please don't patronize a breeder if at all possible. There are plenty of homeless pigs out there who would love to live with you and be spoiled; breeders are notoriously unethical (especially when it comes to specialty varieties, and if I ever ran into anyone who actually bred Dalmatian pigs I'd probably punch them right in the face).
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2012 06:02
|
|
|
cyberia posted:Thanks for the info, Peristalsis. As others have said, it's better and (much) cheaper just to build your own. The cages you linked to didn't really look big enough for pigs (though I didn't check for measurements), and they look kind of hard to clean. They're also probably very cheaply made and not very sturdy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2012 23:24
|
|
|
OK so if any of you read the Seasteading thread in GBS, there are a few posts on Hamsters Going Galt and building an underwater Hame-ture. In my quest for more funny comics of hamsters living under the sea, I found this. http://geek-news.mtv.com/2012/01/06/hps-hamstar-homemade-hamster-powered-submarine/ I laughed, then I cried.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2012 17:17
|
|
|
Man, I really want a Chinchilla, but my cat shreds anything small and fluffy and has a knack for headbutting doors open .  Is there any way I could keep a Chinchilla completely safe with a grumpy old bastard of a cat around? I wouldn't want to risk it becoming a cat snack, so I wouldn't buy it unless I was ABSOLUTELY sure it'd be safe. I'd feel like a grade-A douche if I let a pet come to harm. Any suggestions? I assume most of them will be 'oh god don't', and that's okay.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2012 19:13
|
|
|
I think the only safe solution is to keep the chinchilla in a room that the cat is absolutely not allowed in under any circumstances, and even then you need to be pretty cautious. I keep my gerbil cage in my bedroom and we're really careful not to leave the door open for even a minute. We got used to their noise, though I do take their wheel out sometimes if they're running the gerbil 500 at 4am. If your cat can push doors open somehow, I guess you could consider getting a lock, but that seems like it'd be a pain. Huge Liability fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Mar 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 01:54
|
|
|
Huge Liability posted:I think the only safe solution is to keep the chinchilla in a room that the cat is absolutely not allowed in under any circumstances, and even then you need to be pretty cautious. Yeah, the problem is that the one time he's affectionate is when I'm settling in for bed and he sleeps next to me, and I don't really want to give that up - the rest of the time he's a grumpy old bastard.  As for doors, yeah - he will literally headbutt/bodyslam them until they open, and half the time it WORKS.Guess I'm stuck without anything fuzzy until I move, at the least.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 02:51
|
|
|
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the cat isn't very happy with the situation. He really wants to go into that room, even though he's never been allowed. He knows the gerbils are there because he can hear them. If they're making a lot of noise, he sits outside the door and meows sometimes. I'm not the cat person in the house so I'm firm on the issue. I can see how it'd be unfair to cut off access to a room that the cat could visit before, though, especially if he likes snuggling at night.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 04:03
|
|
|
My sister's cat would've definitely killed my chinchilla if they weren't separated. The cat didn't give a poo poo about him while he was in his cage but when he was out running around (in another room separated by a glass door) the cat went into destroy the fluffy thing mode. I'd wait till you have a cat-proof way to separate them before getting one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 04:05
|
|
|
I'd like to add that sometimes cat saliva has a bacteria (I don't remember specifically, I read it on the chins and hedgies forum ages ago) that can infect chins and kill them very quickly. If you're worried your cat won't leave the cage alone I'm not sure what to tell you. Even a scratch can infect them from what I've read on the forums.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 06:15
|
|
|
Awesome Kristin posted:I'd like to add that sometimes cat saliva has a bacteria (I don't remember specifically, I read it on the chins and hedgies forum ages ago) that can infect chins and kill them very quickly. Ah, alright. I figured as much. Thanks for the info, guys. I had a feeling this'd be the case, but wanted to make sure, because I would never feel comfortable endangering a pet. Guess I just have to wait until I'm in a place more suited to have two pets. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2012 19:26
|
|
|
Nuclear Pogostick posted:Ah, alright. I figured as much. Thanks for the info, guys. I had a feeling this'd be the case, but wanted to make sure, because I would never feel comfortable endangering a pet. One other thing. Chinchillas are extremely easy to stress out and need companionship of some kind.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2012 20:26
|
|
|
SmellsOfFriendship posted:One other thing. Chinchillas are extremely easy to stress out and need companionship of some kind. This is true. I left for the week with someone coming by daily to check on him and feed him, and he was definitely upset that I'd left him for a few days after I got back. He's finally back to being himself now (Sunday) and I got back Thursday. I tried to get him a chinchilla friend, but they could never get along well enough supervised to try to leave them unsupervised so he's back to being a bachelor. I feel bad leaving him alone all day while I'm at work/school, but since he doesn't get along well with other chinchillas I'm not sure what to do. I don't have the space for two chinchilla cages.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2012 03:09
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:This is true. I left for the week with someone coming by daily to check on him and feed him, and he was definitely upset that I'd left him for a few days after I got back. He's finally back to being himself now (Sunday) and I got back Thursday. Try a different chinchilla if that is an option. Not every pair will get along. Our cripple chin Felicia was positively vicious with every other chin that she met, except her cage mate.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2012 05:44
|
|
|
When I introduced Charlie and Oscar it seemed like they were chasing each other and making lots of noise but not actually biting. I followed some advice and put them in a small carrier together. What I saw was Charlie trying to hump Oscar. Since I know this can be a dominance thing even in bonded pairs I just let him "get it out of his system." Ever since then Charlie has been dominant but they get along great. Sometimes one will bark at the other for some random reason but they cuddle and sleep together. I got lucky though and didn't have to adopt Oscar out and try another chin. My favorite picture of them: 
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2012 19:06
|
|
|
He seems happy when he has his people around (he lives in my room so he hangs out with me or my boyfriend whenever we're home) and sleeps while I'm gone during the day so he doesn't really need a companion, but if one comes along I wouldn't turn it down. If I were to seek out another companion for him I'd try to find a spayed female, it might work out better than trying to put two males together. Edit: The local craigslist has two female beige chinchillas plus cage for $80. If I had the space I'd totally become a crazy chinchilla lady. Problem! fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 12, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2012 22:59
|
|
|
My almost 7 year old guinea pig seems to be having some kind of neurological event right now. She was fine as of an hour ago, I just picked her up and her eyes are rolling back into her head and she is leaning to one side. I'm really alarmed, but at the same time as I pet her she is making her typical contented noises and doesn't seem to be particularly incumbered by it. I've got her in a towel right now and she's already passed a couple of stools. Haven't tried to feed her anything yet. Anyone familiar with this or can give me any suggestions? Of course its almost 8pm so a competent vet visit is out of the question until tomorrow morning. God dammit. She was doing so well too. I thought she's at least make it to her 7th birthday. Edit: Just gave her some cucumber and she is eating it with gusto?  Edit 2: Its about 2 hours later now and she seems to have perked back up. The head and body tilt is gone and so is the nystagmatism. This writeup by Peter Gurney is pretty much exactly what happened to her: http://www.oginet.com/pgurney/strokes.htm . He writes that most stroke victims usually make a complete recovery. I am holding out hope. Edit 3: It's now the next morning and she seems totally fine? I had her in a towel in a quarantine cage throughout the night and she seemed to just chillax in the towel the whole night. I just took her out of that and she now is running around the cage eating hay and pellets and tomatoes and not seeming to be affected at all by whatever happened last night. I am baffled. My mom even came over last night because I was sure she was gonna die. Gonna leave her with my sister today while I'm at work so she can be closely observed. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Mar 21, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2012 00:49
|
|
|
Ugh, that sounds awful, but eating/pooping are always good signs. (I can't count the number of times I've shared stories with guinea pig owners about waiting for poop with bated breath.) How's she doing today? I've never had a guinea pig have a stroke before (insofar as I'm aware) but it definitely seems like that could have been it. Hopefully she'll make a good recovery.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2012 01:50
|
|
|
She acts perfectly fine. Really if I hadn't been home for the 3 hours this was going on, I probably would have never known it had happened. Hell, maybe this isn't even the first time it's happened to her, I have no way of knowing. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2012 02:10
|
|
|
We're adopting another chinchilla! It was kind of lucky I've been looking at this:  And disregarded it because Salem is a good hour away. Even though it's a hell of a deal. Chinchilla Mansion + Flying Saucer for 100bux. But then I kept seeing her:   And we kind of wanted to get a friend for Vincenza eventually. And she looks like she could be named Cinnamon. We're picking up both on Saturday!
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2012 06:11
|
|
|
Oh she's tan! Look at those freckled ears. I hope she works out for you. Do you know everything you need to know about introductions? Also that cage is severely lacking in fleece. I'd get a tube and some hammocks asap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2012 20:54
|
|
|
Awesome Kristin posted:Oh she's tan! Look at those freckled ears. I hope she works out for you. Do you know everything you need to know about introductions? Oh we're not going to use the cage immediately. The ad said the last chin in it passed. So new chin (Cinnamon!) is going into the spare room, the cage is going into our bedroom while we clean it (bleach, sunlight) and we'll get her stuff as we go through the quarantine. I'm going to dump all the wood and toys too. Vincenza doesn't use her hammock so we can definitely put that in there. We have a single level Superpet that I hate to put her in but will do for 30 days. And we have Vincenza's old house/food dish to put in there. I'm going to run out and get a new water bottle for Cinnamon today. We're going to take the introductions slow. When Vincenza was housed with her daddy (who passed, his little body couldn't take the neuter ) she was already challenging him at 6 months. So quarantine and then cages next to each other for a bit and we'll go from there. See how much kacking/barking there is.She's gorgeous! We're lucky, Vincenza is a pink and white with a little splotch on her head and now we're getting a tan!
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2012 21:23
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:My almost 7 year old guinea pig seems to be having some kind of neurological event right now. She was fine as of an hour ago, I just picked her up and her eyes are rolling back into her head and she is leaning to one side. I'm really alarmed, but at the same time as I pet her she is making her typical contented noises and doesn't seem to be particularly incumbered by it. I've got her in a towel right now and she's already passed a couple of stools. Haven't tried to feed her anything yet. Anyone familiar with this or can give me any suggestions? Of course its almost 8pm so a competent vet visit is out of the question until tomorrow morning.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 00:41
|
|
|
I'm not sure if this is the right thread but if not someone could direct me to the correct one maybe? I am looking to get a hedgehog but can't seem to find any resources for life expectancy or diet or anything like that. I'm more or less just looking for general info so if anyone here has ever owned any I'm all ears 
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 07:37
|
|
|
We do have a resident hedgie expert who will chime in soon, in the meantime, some resources: http://hedgehogcentral.com/ http://hedgehogclub.com/ Edit: Bad resource removed. alucinor fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 14:16
|
|
|
I've been emailing back and forth with the rescue who has this little guy for about a week, and I'm hopefully going to go meet him next weekend: Any thoughts on bringing Dexter down with me to meet him initially? It's a three hour drive so I don't know if he'd be too stressed by the time we got down there to be a good indication of how they might get along. Dex usually sleeps the whole time on road trips so I don't know if he's bored or stressed actually. I think so that my room isn't overflowing with chinchilla cages, I'm going to build a platform to put in the middle of my chinchilla mansion cage temporarily to split it into two smaller cages until I feel comfortable putting them in together, and just keep switching which half they go in to get them used to sharing things and smelling each other.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 17:31
|
|
|
Aces High posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread but if not someone could direct me to the correct one maybe? I can't vouch for their hedgie knowledge but I spend a huge amount of time here asking questions and reading about chinchillas: http://www.chins-n-hedgies.com
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 17:36
|
|
|
Aquatic Giraffe posted:I've been emailing back and forth with the rescue who has this little guy for about a week, and I'm hopefully going to go meet him next weekend: Don't! According to everything I've read about chin intros, you risk maintaining two set ups regardless. Taking your little stressed guy to meet another little stressed guy might not work well Plus, chins that have been housed together will start fighting. So you need to be prepared. The month quarantine is mandatory. If the new guy is sick, you don't want him infecting Dexter. http://www.chins-n-hedgies.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1080173 Read some of those posts, they'll walk you through how to do intros. There was also a thread recently about quarantine cages. If you get the crappy one level Superpet cage, I guess they're good enough for a month.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 17:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 23:52 |
|
|
SmellsOfFriendship posted:Don't! According to everything I've read about chin intros, you risk maintaining two set ups regardless. Taking your little stressed guy to meet another little stressed guy might not work well I still have Dexter's old SuperPet chinchilla cage, I just need to figure out where to put it. This guy is being fostered by himself in someone's house and has already been quarantined so I suppose the risk of him being sick is lower. I don't think I'm going to take Dex with me, especially since I don't have two pet carriers at the moment. As much as I'd like for Dex to have a friend, I might have to wait till I move to a bigger place this summer Are there any other ways to relieve some loneliness? I read about leaving a radio/TV playing for them during the day, but Dex even gets upset if my boyfriend comes over and I'm paying attention to the boyfriend instead of him so I don't know if he'd be content with voices that weren't me (also constant noise coming from my room would probably drive my roommates nuts). That and sulking for days after I left him for a week with just a petsitter coming by to feed him every day is what prompted me to start looking for a friend for him again. I'm trying to get him to be not quite so attached to me because I feel bad when he gets all sad if I have to leave him for a while.
|
|
#
?
Mar 24, 2012 17:58
|
|