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How easy is it to convert a 99 Impreza from four to two doors?
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Mar 23, 2012 00:00
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| # ? May 31, 2024 16:26 |
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Cat Terrist posted:How easy is it to convert a 99 Impreza from four to two doors? Is this a serious question? Beyond the whole having to move the B Pillar.
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Mar 23, 2012 00:22
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c355n4 posted:Is this a serious question? Beyond the whole having to move the B Pillar. Yes I am 100% serious. We do not have two doors here and I need specifically a 2 door for what I have in mind. Remember too we have done harder than just detact and reattach pillars in my garage. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Mar 23, 2012 |
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Mar 23, 2012 00:26
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes I am 100% serious. We do not have two doors here and I need specifically a 2 door for what I have in mind. Remember too we have done harder than just detact and reattach pillars in my garage. Most of the differences are just body/interior crap. The B Pillar is located farther back on the 2 door. You'll need new coupe doors obviously. New rear glass. Door cards if you care about those. I'm like 99.99% sure anything mechanical or fuel related is the same. Seat position and mounting points are still the same. I knew you were crazy; but, this is crazy  (In a good way, still crazy)
c355n4 fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Mar 23, 2012 |
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Mar 23, 2012 00:34
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You're really going to copy the VW crew? http://www.vwvortex.com/resources/project_cars/projectx/index.html
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Mar 23, 2012 00:41
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c355n4 posted:
Converting to two door isnt the craziest bit of what I'm thinking about.
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Mar 23, 2012 00:42
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Could you grey market import a 2-door? Might be the easiest option.
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Mar 23, 2012 01:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Could you grey market import a 2-door? Might be the easiest option. A lot of the panels will be replaced anyway, unpicking the body skins to put on the bodykit would be the same work. Yeah, that may well tip someone off what I could be thinking of ^_^
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Mar 23, 2012 01:15
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chassis is the same length, so I guess just make sure the cage is in the car before you cut out the b-pillar.
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Mar 23, 2012 01:52
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jamal posted:did you go to the dealer or something? that's like twice what it should cost from a competent Subaru mechanic. Even considering the rear has drums? I need this car to be roadworthy in one week. There are two "trustworthy" shops here. One is cheap but last time I took the car to them they needed two weeks to acquire and install an oxygen sensor. The other shop repaired an exhaust leak quickly and cheaply, but they want $700 for two wheel bearings.  The nearest dealer is about eighty miles away.
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Mar 23, 2012 03:16
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Does anyone here have experience dealing with the 2nd gen Outback AC revolution sensor issue? My 04 H6 has been having issues with my AC just quitting out when getting stuck in traffic. AC starts just fine if you shut the car off and turn it back on again. I've swapped the AC relay and have had the thing checked for leaks and that didn't fix it so by process of elimination I'm thinking it's having the same issues the 01/02's have: http://www.ej207.com/files/Subaru%2...-74-0230512.pdf Idea on how much this costs to fix and a wrench around Boston to recommend?
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Mar 23, 2012 13:17
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Does anyone know if a dog fence/cage/retainer exists for a 2011 hatch STi? I want one that slides into the back seat headrests and keeps the dog in the cargo area. I can't find anything.
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Mar 23, 2012 15:29
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Talking to my Mom today, her brand new (5k ish) '12 Impreza CVT is only getting about 28 mpg. She does probably 95% of her driving between 60-80mph on the highway. She's talked to her dealer about it and all he could tell her is that "it takes a while for the CVT and the ECU to get used to your driving style" which really sounds like bullshit to me, but there you go. I can't find anyone else who seems to be having this problem online, but I would believe it more coming from one of you guys who knows more about the computer side of car stuff. Thoughts?
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Mar 23, 2012 16:50
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Does she spend more time at 60 or at 80? There's a big difference between the two, and EPA estimates tend to reflect the efficiency at 60 more than at 80. I drive a '12 Outback with a stick shift, and I usually see something in the neighborhood of 20 MPG city, 28 highway. That's doing between 70 and 80, most of the time.
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Mar 23, 2012 17:54
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 jamal thanks for everything, got that hose last night at the shop, you are good.
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Mar 23, 2012 17:56
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Safety Dance posted:Does she spend more time at 60 or at 80? There's a big difference between the two, and EPA estimates tend to reflect the efficiency at 60 more than at 80. Probably more like 75 mostly. She's mostly worried, I think, because it's rated at 36 hwy and she's seeing almost 10 less than that. I'm worried because the dealer might already be trying to cover it's rear end on what could be a semi-big problem. I've also never had a new car though, so some of it really might be normal as far as I know.
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Mar 23, 2012 18:00
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infrared35 posted:Even considering the rear has drums? yeah bearings and hubs are the same part, and even on rear disc cars you still have to take apart the drum parking brake.
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Mar 23, 2012 18:33
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I doubt the dealership would try and deceive her if she's talking to the service department, they really don't have anything to lose by giving her the truth (I could be wrong). In my experience with playing with CVT's, they don't like anything more than a gradual acceleration, and will yell at you in the form of lovely mileage. The car doesn't have great pickup, and most people try to compensate by flooring it. It's most likely that her driving style needs to change to accommodate a CVT. Slow and easy, there's no reason she shouldn't be able to maintain 40+ mpg at 55-60 mph.
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Mar 23, 2012 18:37
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How hard is it to throw an STi Brembo package onto an old WRX? My calipers are rusted, nasty turds so I've been thinking of upgrading them, and the gold bling factor is a big selling point to me  . Sometimes you can find complete sets for 700-850 bucks on eBay.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:07
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need: 04-07 calipers (the rear 08+ stuff doesn't work) 04 sti front rotors DBA 2657 rear rotors wrxbrakes adapter brakets for rear calipers wheels that fit them
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Mar 23, 2012 19:18
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jamal posted:need:  gently caress that.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:28
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JDM 4pots are pretty easy to get ahold of.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:38
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The Jabberwocky posted:Probably more like 75 mostly. She's mostly worried, I think, because it's rated at 36 hwy and she's seeing almost 10 less than that. I'm worried because the dealer might already be trying to cover it's rear end on what could be a semi-big problem. I've also never had a new car though, so some of it really might be normal as far as I know. Have her try driving at 65 for a few tanks to see how the mileage is affected. But as the previous poster mentioned, if she's heavy footed she'll get crap mileage. Which is true of any car.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:42
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Seat Safety Switch posted:JDM 4pots are pretty easy to get ahold of. yeah my plan has always been to just do front 4 pots and leave my h6 rears (to do 2 pots you also need adapter brackets). Both my sets of wheels fit them and I already have the right size front rotors.
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Mar 23, 2012 19:47
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Amandyke posted:Have her try driving at 65 for a few tanks to see how the mileage is affected. But as the previous poster mentioned, if she's heavy footed she'll get crap mileage. Which is true of any car. This is almost for sure the answer, but I have no clue about car electronics, so I thought I would check and see if that was a thing about the new engine/tranny/ECU. For better or worse, MPG is not a thing I worry about with two wagons :/
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Mar 23, 2012 21:39
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The Jabberwocky posted:This is almost for sure the answer, but I have no clue about car electronics, so I thought I would check and see if that was a thing about the new engine/tranny/ECU. For better or worse, MPG is not a thing I worry about with two wagons :/
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Mar 23, 2012 23:23
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Hopefully this isn't too weird. My buddy Hershey's car is nominated for NASIOC's current Top Scoob. If y'all could lend a vote his way it would be much appreciated. link to thread - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2309192 his car - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36553375&postcount=5 
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Mar 24, 2012 19:12
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Crapsteaks. No wonder the rear wheel bearings are so expensive for my '99 OBS. Apparently the wheel bearings and hubs are a single unit. 
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Mar 25, 2012 01:36
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No its not. The first bolt in hub/bearing combo came on the back of the 00 legacy. Then the front of the 05 legacy and 05 sti. Regular impreza/wrx didn't get them until 2008.
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Mar 25, 2012 02:06
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jamal posted:No its not. The first bolt in hub/bearing combo came on the back of the 00 legacy. Then the front of the 05 legacy and 05 sti. Regular impreza/wrx didn't get them until 2008. All these shops are lying to me. I've gotten three different quotes and they've all said the same thing.
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Mar 25, 2012 15:07
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infrared35 posted:All these shops are lying to me. Or did you score the hubs by running with shot bearings for awhile? If you scored the gently caress out of the hubs, you'd need to get new ones.
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Mar 25, 2012 16:30
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yeah, sometimes you do need to replace the hub (and even the upright) because they are damaged from the trashed bearing. here is a thread with pictures of everything http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1925081&highlight=wheel+bearing and here is the parts diagram
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Mar 25, 2012 19:20
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It's nearly impossible to find a 2000-2003/4 Legacy Wagon with a manual transmission in Missouri. I didn't want an automatic and I didn't want an Outback. I'd looked for about a year until I finally picked this up yesterday. 2000 Legacy L 5-speed with no options and a piddly 130,000 miles on the clock. So far, all I've done was wash, wax, and detail it inside and out. Next week, I'll be getting a stereo wiring harness adapter as the stock single-DIN tape player is the opposite of useful. Also I'm getting the CV boots replaced pronto. I'm waiting for my registration to sl-i.net to go through at the moment. I want to score a set of WRX wheels and tires soon. The tires on the stock rusty steel wheels are about worn out, and they'll be relegated to snow tire duty.
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Mar 26, 2012 04:42
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jamal posted:yeah, sometimes you do need to replace the hub (and even the upright) because they are damaged from the trashed bearing. Maybe they're just assuming the hubs are trashed when they do the quote up. I can live with that, I guess. None of them have actually looked at the car yet. So... an '07 Legacy Outback has the Phase II 2.5, right? It's got 125k miles on it, so assuming there's no way to know if the timing belt has been done, what could I add to that as far as projected immediate maintenance concerns? Edit: Welp. They started taking the rear end apart and they said the whole thing was rusted so badly that there's a lot of stuff that should really be replaced before the car is considered roadworthy. I asked them for a rough estimate and they said it would probably be about $2000. I said, assuming that I was willing to go that route, could they do it all today or tomorrow? They said it might take three weeks to get all the parts in. I don't have three weeks. I have three days. So I guess the poor li'l silver turtle is officially done for. Time to go shopping.
infrared35 fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 14:16
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02 WRX Sedan with all the more common suspension mdoes but stock sprnigs and shocks - Are megan coilovers worth $550?
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Mar 26, 2012 21:50
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no. infrared where are you? maybe I can recommend a local shop.
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Mar 26, 2012 21:56
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I didn't see a general tires thread, so I'll ask in here. I've got a '99 impreza outback wagon that needs new tires all around. I live in Colorado, so I want some all-weather tires just for simplicity. I'd also put comfort over performance right now, my suspension is pretty hard and I don't go to the track with it or anything. I'm assuming that more comfortable tires won't mean I have to drive like a Floridan granny in the mountains, right? I really don't know what brands and models to look for, any advice? edit: I think IR is in southern Georgia right now, but maybe he's moved back to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.
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Mar 26, 2012 22:19
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My '97 Outback Sport is one of the softest cars over rough surfaces I've ever ridden in, but that's with the stock suspension. Are you inflating your tires to the max pressure on the sidewall, or to the recommended pressure on the inside drivers' door jamb of the car? Right now, for summer I have a set of Hankook Mileage Plus tires that came with the car from the previous owner, and a set of studded General Altimax Arctics for winter. A good option, provided you can get it in your size, would be a good snow-capable touring tire like a Continental DWS.
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Mar 26, 2012 22:22
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I'm inflating them to the pressure on the doorjamb (I actually came in here the first time I needed to air them up because I was confused). They're KYB GR1s or something like that, they needed replacement shortly after I got the car. I was under the impression they were the OEM for the stock suspension, so my father and I did the replacement. Do you think it's possible the bolts being out of torque specs might have to do with it? We didn't have a torque wrench at the time, but my dad was sure it would be fine. On the other hand, most of his mechanic experience has been with beat to poo poo trucks older than he is, so I've been kind of wondering if that could be the cause of the rough ride. edit: Looks like the DWS don't come in my size, is there a good guide to brands/models to look for and look out for? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 22:46
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| # ? May 31, 2024 16:26 |
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If you're not going to go with snows in the winter (but you should go with snows in the winter) the RE960AS and Conti DWS are both great all weather tires. Speaking of tires, my 225/45/17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports are on the way. 
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Mar 26, 2012 22:54
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