|
Chiken n' Waffles posted:With that vow set in stone, do paints from Michael's and arts & crafts stores work just as good? Any recommended brands / colors for begging this hobby? No, craft store paints are godawful and won't work well for miniatures. Paints from GW, P3, Vallejo, Coat D'Arms, Reaper, or similar model-specific paint companies are what you should be buying. Also, that sounds like a pretty awful hobby store experience. I wish I could run a hobby shop just so people could have more nice stories about the people who work at them 
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 20:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:23 |
|
|
The store I've bought some GW products at is sort of a pleasantly odd case in that it looks like a nerd cave and I could totally imagine the guy who's usually behind the counter in a fedora and trenchcoat, but it's actually well-kept and I've gotten very civil, businesslike service every time I've been in there. They also give a pretty nice global discount on GW models.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 20:19
|
|
|
Chiken n' Waffles posted:I finally just grabbed a Warhammer starter kit off the shelf and made him sell it to me. As my receipt was printing he said in a unbelievably snotty tone, "now you can run out of here screaming." It was a loving ridiculous experience and I unconditionally will not return to that store ever. For what it's worth, you should go ahead and complain to corporate. I know that these dudes are told to upsell as hard as they can, but that isn't a reason for them to be shitheads. Plus if the company gets complaints about how upselling is a pain in the rear end, maybe they'll rethink it. To your questions, the paints that we use are basically just acrylics. Hobby paints don't tend to be formulated in the right way to use on miniatures, but I know that people can make them work. I think that getting them to work alright might be more hassle for a new painter than it's totally worth, though, especially as you don't seem to have a ton of stuff to paint. That said, you can use any number of the model paints outlined above, and even certain artist brands will work just fine - you are basically looking for acrylic paints that come in a liquid state (rather than a paste or ketchup consistency) with sufficient pigment to get good coverage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 20:35
|
|
|
Chiken n' Waffles posted:Another horrid Games Workshop story So, I talked to the guy who runs my local GW about what the hell to do about poo poo like this. Apparently, the old local region director (who I only know as "Swan") got moved to the head of customer service, which handles complaints like this. You can either call their customer support number at 1-800-394-4263 or e-mail them at Custserv@games-workshop.com if you don't want to talk over the phone. Having met Swan, I can vouch for the guy that he totally gets his poo poo done. If it's brought to his attention that a GW-employed rear end in a top hat is being rude/making lewd sexual comments/gestures or whatever, he should act on that right fast. Before you ask, not even the guy who runs my local GW store knows what Swan's real name is.  He does have a rather strange English accent--like a Scot who moved to southern England in his teenage years, or some kind of chav that learned to speak clearly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 21:18
|
|
|
Chiken n' Waffles posted:
GW stores are a blight on humanity. I have to drink half a bottle of vodka to gain enough courage to go in there. Probably the best thing you can do is ask questions in here and post your works in progress so that you can receive feedback.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 21:38
|
|
|
Some of you guys must live in right shitholes, the Cardiff GW ain't too bad. The biggest problem with it is A) it's in Wales but it's a right laugh winding up the manager with leaked stuff on the internet and watch him try to deny it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 21:48
|
|
|
Chiken n' Waffles, sorry to hear that :/ I would have just offered you the hobby starter set if you had no tools at all, or one of the sets that come with 5 models depending on what colours you needed. Limp Wristed Limey, they aren't all bad :C They aren't all great either, I can't deny. Flipswitch posted:Some of you guys must live in right shitholes, the Cardiff GW ain't too bad. The biggest problem with it is A) it's in Wales but it's a right laugh winding up the manager with leaked stuff on the internet and watch him try to deny it. Derp, where as I discus the latest leaked things with my customers. I never get told anything anyway so it's not like I can accidentally give anything away.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 22:49
|
|
|
I use craft art acrylics all the time, you just have to be careful about how thin/thick they are. And never use their metals, the flake size is too high for something as fine detailed as miniatures.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2012 23:02
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Finished up those bike bases: That looks like broken asphalt, you need to add some road lines asap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 00:31
|
|
|
There is a little shop in Reading town centre that sells everything but GW. One of the guys who works in there is a good guy but comes out with some odd stuff; GW dropped 5 million on the development of the new brushes. They are the best brushes for painting miniatures ever. They ae rubbish if you try and do any other painting with them, but for miniatures they are now the best and all professional painters say this. He is 'eavy metal trained and can paint and sell a warmachine army for ~£2000. When painting a character miniature you must buy a new set of brushes. All pro painters do this. There are a few things you need to be able to do to be considered a professional painter. One is wet blending from royal blue to white, and make it look like a white surface with a blue tinge or something. The other is being able to wet blend red and black perfectly until your surface looks like onyx. Oh and wet blending yellow to white so it looks like searing hot metal. I always wanted to ask how much of this was just wierd or true but kept forgetting. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 00:35
|
|
|
Does being 'eavy metal trained consist of meditating under a waterfall of devlan mud and asurmen blue? or being tied to a desk with your eyes forced open and being forced to recite the paint chart by taste, smell and paint consistency? The term just sounds so daft.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 00:40
|
|
|
I believe it refers to the sheer volume of heavy metals they've ingested.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 00:43
|
|
|
I bet he means he attended a masterclass taught by a GW studio painter or something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 01:02
|
|
|
Sounds like he is just full of poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 01:09
|
|
|
I suspect it's a lot closer to; "Let's have a look at your portfolio of completed works" "Do you feel you could consistently deliver to this standard within X time frame?" "great, you're hired"
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 01:16
|
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:Sounds like he is just full of poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 03:37
|
|
|
So, I finally broke down and bought the Dark Eldar Battleforce. Two questions: A: Are there any recommendations for glue, preferably stuff that isn't going to magically expand and fill up cracks and make my poor Warriors resemble Nurgle worshippers? B: Does anyone have any recommendations for a clamp/vise thing? Holding spiky bits to other spiky bits for an hour is killing my poor girly fingers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
Superglue? Also, eliminates the need for (B). e: to be clear, get the thick stuff, not thin and maybe not even medium.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 03:49
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Superglue? Also, eliminates the need for (B). I tried using a bit of Gorilla Glue that I had lying around the apartment, and while it did glue, my test Warrior has a bit of Stay-Puft foam under his arms and around his crotch. Maybe I should just switch to Plague Marines, they could totally get away with that poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 03:57
|
|
|
Well, yeah, gorilla glue is designed to foam up and fill in space. So, again, how about superglue?  and another e: you're not under the impression that gorilla glue == superglue, are you? They're very, very different beasts. ee: Oh, maybe that was my confusion: perhaps you thought I was asking if you had been using superglue. I actually meant, "Have you tried superglue?"  eee: Try superglue!
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 04:11
|
|
|
The Betrayer posted:So, I finally broke down and bought the Dark Eldar Battleforce. Contacta professional plastic glue.  Plastic glue certainly won't expand, as it melts the plastic to fuse it together. Most parts should seal together pretty quickly unless you've been using bad glue/have bad contact.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 04:40
|
|
|
There are two schools of thought on gluing plastic miniatures. The first is to use superglue, mostly because the bond it makes is brittle and can be snapped if you want to change things later on. I personally use plastic glue, which will require tools to break apart cleanly depending on what it is you have glued. It also has the added bonus of not bonding flesh near-instantly. For resin or metal miniatures I use a brand of CA glue called Hot Stuff. It creates a strong bond quickly and if left open it will eventually melt through its own bottle. For plastics I use Testors, one thicker version in a toothpaste style tube, and a runnier kind in a bottle. To each his own though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 04:46
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:There are a few things you need to be able to do to be considered a professional painter. One is wet blending from royal blue to white, and make it look like a white surface with a blue tinge or something. The other is being able to wet blend red and black perfectly until your surface looks like onyx. Oh and wet blending yellow to white so it looks like searing hot metal. Okay, after stripping away all the bullshit, are any of these things possible/feasible/useful at all, and how would that look?
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 06:22
|
|
|
Jetfire posted:Okay, after stripping away all the bullshit, are any of these things possible/feasible/useful at all, and how would that look? Possible? Yes. Feasible? Likely not. Useful? Sure, it will just take a shitload of time. Honestly all three of those things can be done far easier using techniques other than wet-blending.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 06:31
|
|
|
Jetfire posted:Okay, after stripping away all the bullshit, are any of these things possible/feasible/useful at all, and how would that look? I'm fairly confident in saying that "blending from yellow to white" would never look like searing hot metal. It would have to be more like blending from a reddish orange to a yellow to white. I also have a question. How many layers of Testor's Dullcote should I use for a piece that's going to be for tabletop play? Alternatively is it something I should just apply periodically after using the piece for a bit? I typically am going to be using pewter miniatures, in case that makes a difference as well. I just don't want to end up having to rediscover a paint color I may have not written the formula down for, and also not having to be doing touch ups frequently would be a good thing. My buddy and I are attempting to get some interest in Battletech going after we demo it at our FLGS. Edit: I have no experience playing table top games with painted miniatures, so no idea if I should even be concerned about any of the above.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 06:33
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:There is a little shop in Reading town centre that sells everything but GW. One of the guys who works in there is a good guy but comes out with some odd stuff; Find out who his dealer is, dude obviously has some great weed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 07:17
|
|
|
Refind Chaos posted:
A couple light layers will probably do you. Personally, I go for several layers, starting with gloss and then covering with dull until the gleam goes away, but that's more because I like the illusion of depth it gives to the colors. It's slow, but I like to do one layer at a time, letting it dry all the way before doing another. If you look really carefully, you can see how well the clearcoat is covering the model, and you can catch the spots you missed on earlier passes. It doesn't matter if you're using metal or plastic. Well, maybe put a little more protection on metal figures, just because gravity is always going to try to give your lovingly painted model a great big violent hug.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 08:15
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Does being 'eavy metal trained consist of meditating under a waterfall of devlan mud and asurmen blue? or being tied to a desk with your eyes forced open and being forced to recite the paint chart by taste, smell and paint consistency? Don't you mean Agrax Earthshade and Drakenhof Nightshade?  On that subject, I tried to match up the old paints with the new ones and paint a like for like model yesterday.   The old style is the left, the new on the right. The new washes are a LOT darker, which I'm not sure I like  If asurmen was too bright, you could bring it down with badab black. What are you supposed to do with these ones (except mix with lots of watered down "layer")?These were the colours used; Ultramarines Blue = Altdorf Guard Blue Blood Red = Mephiston Red Skull White = Ceramite White Boltgun Metal = Leadbelcher Orkhide shade = Caliban Green Drybrushing Bleached Bone = Underhive Ash (Ultramarines Blue + Skull white = Etherium Blue) Mithril Silver = Necron Compound Washing Badab Black = Nuln Oil Asurmen Blue = Drakenhof Nightshade Ball Red = Carroburg Crimson Namenlos fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 08:37
|
|
|
Namenlos posted:Don't you mean Agrax Earthshade and Drakenhof Nightshade? The new version reads a lot better. The lighter washes don't add nearly as much pop, and can tend to make things mushy if applied wholesale. On the otherhand, the drybrush paints look really gross. Maybe you got a bad pot, or it requires some thinning. The saving grace is that the washes tie things up. The new red wash in particular is pretty sexy. I always thought Baal red went on really nice and then dried and looked too weak.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 08:52
|
|
|
I've recently started painting miniatures again after about a 20 year hiatus. Although it's going slowly, and I've got a lot to learn, I'm already addicted to it and have easily spent 6-7 hours in the last couple of days working on my first 'test' Space Marine. I thought it was a good time to ask for some feedback, as I've started to do some of the fine details (although not the ultra fine details). This is my own colour scheme, because I had kind of started painting before realising that there were pre-set factions; even if I had known there were factions in advance, it probably still might not have made a difference as I really like to do my own thing anyway. At this stage, I'm unhappy with the gun, and I haven't really started on the backpack beyond some of the larger details. Anyway, I would really really appreciate any feedback and any glaring mistakes that I'm making. Thanks!     I was having some trouble getting my camera to focus up close, so tips on how to take better pictures would also be much appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 12:24
|
|
|
There's a few things you can do to help get better pics, and other things depending on what type of camera you have. The most important thing for most point and shoot cameras is to force it to focus on what you want. Do this by putting your model on a flat, single color surface. A white sheet of paper, a folder, something that is all one color and will fill the viewfinder. Try to eliminate other things from being in frame so the camera doesn't get confused. If your camera has a mode dial with a little flower on it, use that, it's the macro mode and should help. Beyond that, get a tripod or use some books to keep things steady.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 12:36
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Some of you guys must live in right shitholes, the Cardiff GW ain't too bad. The biggest problem with it is A) it's in Wales but it's a right laugh winding up the manager with leaked stuff on the internet and watch him try to deny it. Was just about to post the same, the Cardiff Store is ace As far as winding up Steve goes, its a bit mean as his job would genuinely be on the line if he discussed leaked stuff.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 13:34
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:There is a little shop in Reading town centre that sells everything but GW. One of the guys who works in there is a good guy but comes out with some odd stuff; This reminds me of when liquid greenstuff came out, the manager of my local GW told me "they've managed to add chemicals to regular greenstuff that stop it setting right away." Yeah dude, that's how epoxy putty works.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 13:34
|
|
|
Just popped down to the Oxford Street GW on my lunchbreak to check out the new paints. Most impressed with the Bases, the red and white have good coverage and without the weird separation that the foundation paints tended to have. The dry metallic is pretty good though I am still not that sold on it. Shades are.. okay? They don't seem better or worse, just different. Definitely stronger than the previous gen washes. There were no glazes to play with unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 13:57
|
|
|
I like the mud texture for basing and I found the bases to be a lot more consistent than foundations. Didn't really try anything else. I hope the snow texture is good I want to try it on my tank treads. My store manager just would not stop talking about the millions they put into developing them. He's a nice guy but the super enthusiasm is getting tiring. I mean I get it, but I feel pretty bad for him, it must be exhausting.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 14:35
|
|
|
So, my mates wives are all into their own crafting stuff during the week, which is awesome as I will always encourage people to be creative in their own ways. Turns out we can have cross-over appeal. For anyone whose spouses or girlfriends are into embossing and cuttlebug (don't ask, even I have no real idea what it fully entails), the patterns which can be embossed onto card are pretty drat cool. Especially when they can be used to make bases with. Coming out soon is the following;  The one on the right is the one I will be using the most (the honeycomb). The left can be used in making my swamp terrain for my undead castle ruins. I'll be buying that as it's going to be a cheap and quick way of making Infinity style futuristic bases for a really cheap price. One embossed card is enough for about 8-10 full bases I would reckon. Perhaps even more. Once I have a bunch of these done, I will retire to my man-cave, and laugh at such weird craft obsessions, while detailing the gently caress out of man-barbies.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 15:28
|
|
|
Since we're prattlin' on about GW stores, anyone been to any Aus stores? Also, I think this is the first LotR in the thread...  Been givin' it a crack on recently. All the eyes are painted...
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 15:52
|
|
|
The Dark Project posted:I'll be buying that as it's going to be a cheap and quick way of making Infinity style futuristic bases for a really cheap price. One embossed card is enough for about 8-10 full bases I would reckon. Perhaps even more. Holy poo poo, yes please. How feasible would it be to press greenstuff onto the embossed cards? VVV Awesome.  Got a link to a supplier?Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 16:01
|
|
|
Easy as gently caress because the folders are hard but flexible A5 plastic. You have two sides which are embossed, one in relief and the other as the part which presses the samwiched card you place inbetween the folder sides down through and into the relief portion to emboss the card. The blank cards usually used to do this can hold a pattern quite well, and usually look fine when painted. If you wanted an ultra smooth look, GS would be the way to go. All you'd need to do is GS the portion that will look like hexagon paving stones when you pull up the GS and you're golden. If you can find a cheap machine which helps you stamp or emboss card, you could do it even cheaper just by buying a bunch of blank cheap card, embossing A5 amounts and then cutting out what you need for bases. Otherwise, GS should be just as good. Use what you got I guess Here is the link to check it out. A google for local stores or online sellers should set you right to getting these. Pretty cheap too. Retails for $10.99 for two of the A5 folders, which, if you look after them, should last practically forever. Edit: Thinking on it, a quick spray with some non-stick spray and a plastic or rubber roller to work the GS into the grooves should also help, then let the GS cure before prying it out and washing it off. Will help just in case the GS grips the plastic. The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 16:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:23 |
|
|
Post Heresy Era MK VI Corvus Blood Angels incoming: (Slightly out of focus group shot)    This one looks like he's having a good think about things. Like when tea is, or the futility of war.     Chain Bolter    (this one got attacked by a cat hence the wonky shoulder pad )  Had these knocking around unpainted since GD 2010, and had completely forgotten about them. They've been tarted up from stuff from the Death Company and Sanguinary Guard Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Mar 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2012 16:44
|
|