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gently caress me, they look awesome.
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Mar 26, 2012 16:56
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The gold on those looks really slick. What'd you use?
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Mar 26, 2012 16:59
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Sole.Sushi posted:The gold on those looks really slick. What'd you use? Basecoated shining gold mixed with a bit of Khemri brown (because gently caress basecoating in pure gold). Then a second thin coat of shining gold. Wash of Devlan mud, then a lighter wash of sepia Highlight with a bit of burnished gold, then mithril on the top All over a black undercoat Edit: Now I think of it, I did some extra shading on the helmets using scorched brown (vents on the nose for example) Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 17:04
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A lot of work, but you can't argue with those kind of results.
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Mar 26, 2012 17:07
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Half the work is getting a nice flat basecoat of gold. The shading/highlighting isnt much more work than anything else When I did my Sanguinary Guard I airbrushed the Shining Gold straight over black and it was rather quicker..
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Mar 26, 2012 17:11
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Flipswitch posted:gently caress me, they look awesome. Cheers Buddy! 95% of them done sitting in Cardiff GW too. You may even have seen me once or twice.. 
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Mar 26, 2012 17:12
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Skarsnik posted:Cheers Buddy! 95% of them done sitting in Cardiff GW too. You may even have seen me once or twice..  I'm only in there for a few minutes to wind up Etienne or Steve now and then, I don't stay for long to be honest as I don't know any 40k gaming group(s) and hauling my IG is a pain in the rear end.
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Mar 26, 2012 17:21
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PotatoManJack posted:I've recently started painting miniatures again after about a 20 year hiatus. Although it's going slowly, and I've got a lot to learn, I'm already addicted to it and have easily spent 6-7 hours in the last couple of days working on my first 'test' Space Marine. You're the guy I had a short exchange with in the other thread, right? As someone who's not too far beyond you yet himself, that's looking good for a first test model (well, in 20 years). Don't worry about having decided to freelance your own Space Marine paint scheme; you're right that there are a lot of notable named Chapters but there is also deliberately enough room in the universe for hundreds (if not thousands?) of fan Astartes chapters. If that were my model, my own next step would be to experiment with highlighting a bit. What in particular don't you like about the gun (bolter  )? The backpack doesn't need that much more work for it to pass muster in my eyes, just the overall highlighting treatment and, if you wanted, a different color for the little skull--silver would work well with the scheme you've got going on there. I like that there's already some shading/shadowing going on with the recesses and the vents.
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Mar 26, 2012 17:31
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Chiken n' Waffles posted:I know this is a few pages back, but you should go back into that store at least one more time to find this guys supervisor and let him know how lovely his employee is. There's really no excuse for that.
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Mar 26, 2012 17:38
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Blood angels with "correct" markings are amazing looking. Really nice.
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Mar 26, 2012 18:09
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I gotta say, when Forgeworld started doing armor marks, I didn't really like the idea of squads all made up of the same type. Looking at that squad there, though, it looks really nice. I'd almost say it highlights the inhuman nature of the space marines.
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Mar 26, 2012 18:15
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More Bases!   These are Fantascape ones that I'm really pleased with. The models to go on them are much harder to paint and are taking a lot longer.
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Mar 26, 2012 21:25
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JerryLee posted:You're the guy I had a short exchange with in the other thread, right? Thanks for the feedback. When you say to experiment about highlighting, do you mean lighter shades on areas that would in theory have more light hitting them than others? With regards to the bolter (thanks for that) I think I don't like how shiny the silver itself it. I think I might try and create a slightly more metal looking colour by mixing a tiny bit of black in and put another coat on. I also like the idea of making the skull a metalic colour as well. Also, thanks for the tip about taking photos. I'll do a little more work tonight and will try and take some better pitcures of the results.
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Mar 26, 2012 22:49
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PotatoManJack posted:Thanks for the feedback. When you say to experiment about highlighting, do you mean lighter shades on areas that would in theory have more light hitting them than others? What I meant by highlighting is edge or line highlighting, that is putting thin lines of a slightly lighter or complimentary color along the edges of armor plates, corners, raised portions, etc. So technically yeah, edges that catch the light, but I just think of it in terms of 'edges' rather than try to run raycasting in my head or anything.  You can see it in e.g. this picture from up the thread of Skarsnik's blood angels--look at the elbow and the boot for example. Or here is a more amateurish example of one of my own models (you can see that I'm no better than you at taking pictures).The metal of your dude's bolter didn't look too shiny to me but there are a lot of options for making it dingier, applying heavier washes, etc. I'm still at the point where I do basic metal gun parts by painting them Chainmail, washing them with Badab Black and pretty much calling it good.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:04
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Finished up my entry for the second round of Iron Painter. Theme was "The Next Step" and I wrote a little fluff text to go with it in the Wyrd gallery.  Dioramas are hella fun yo.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:40
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Arlaharen posted:Finished up my entry for the second round of Iron Painter. Theme was "The Next Step" and I wrote a little fluff text to go with it in the Wyrd gallery. Simple but effective! Probably giving the Wyrd people mental flashes of their Lady Justice Avatar.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:44
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Arlaharen posted:Finished up my entry for the second round of Iron Painter. Theme was "The Next Step" and I wrote a little fluff text to go with it in the Wyrd gallery. I love you Arlaharen
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Mar 27, 2012 00:01
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Arlaharen posted:Finished up my entry for the second round of Iron Painter. Theme was "The Next Step" and I wrote a little fluff text to go with it in the Wyrd gallery. My entry is going to suck rear end, but since I stand no chance of defeating my opponent any way, I don't feel too bad about it. (The sucking rear end is directly related to my renovating my house so I can sell it. I figure that is a somewhat reasonable excuse. Also I'm just not that good of a painter, so there is that too). Nice work btw.
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Mar 27, 2012 00:02
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I'm contemplating ordering a bunch of bases from Dragon Forge to put my Space Wolves on to for the upcoming oath thread, because I'm really terrible at basing models. What kind of turn-around time have you seen from them? Think if I ordered tomorrow I'd get the bases in time to make an oath for mid-April?
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Mar 27, 2012 02:19
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Jcam posted:I'm contemplating ordering a bunch of bases from Dragon Forge to put my Space Wolves on to for the upcoming oath thread, because I'm really terrible at basing models. What kind of turn-around time have you seen from them? Think if I ordered tomorrow I'd get the bases in time to make an oath for mid-April? Takes about a week for him to process your order + the time it takes to get to you through the mail.
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Mar 27, 2012 02:52
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Hey Dominion, I just wanted to say thanks for the advice. I picked up some Reaper Automatons, figured since they would be on 30mm bases I could use them somewhere -- and once I got my flow going I finished my Warmachine backlog. Alexia Ciannor, Boomhowler and Co, a Vanquisher, a Flameguard Unit, a Destroyer, pSorscha, a Torch, and a Devastator. Decided to go with a dark Hormagaunt Purple / Blighted gold look on the Menoth and I love it. Bringing everything to my local club tomorrow to take proper pictures.
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Mar 27, 2012 03:58
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Verdugo posted:Hey Dominion, I just wanted to say thanks for the advice. I picked up some Reaper Automatons, figured since they would be on 30mm bases I could use them somewhere -- and once I got my flow going I finished my Warmachine backlog. Alexia Ciannor, Boomhowler and Co, a Vanquisher, a Flameguard Unit, a Destroyer, pSorscha, a Torch, and a Devastator. Decided to go with a dark Hormagaunt Purple / Blighted gold look on the Menoth and I love it. Post those Menoth as payback, I've been searching for the right gold to go with my Liche Purple/Jade Green chaos and Blighted might be it. Also holy gently caress you painted all that in the 3 days since you said you had a block?
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Mar 27, 2012 04:02
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Dominion posted:Post those Menoth as payback, I've been searching for the right gold to go with my Liche Purple/Jade Green chaos and Blighted might be it. I set up a block of time this weekend to focus on painting, since my wife wanted to work on a big wall piece with acrylics. We painted together, her with her wall and me with my mans, most of the weekend. We had an awesome time. These pieces have been sitting on my "to do" shelf for about a month now, and it feels great to have that clear so I can take on some more commision work. I really just focused on doing it all tabletop quality since I am using a bunch of it tomorrow and I don't play with unpainted stuff. Looking at the menoth now, it was tin bitz, not blighted gold -- I will post pics tomorrow. I did do the weapon arms of the devastator with blighted gold washed with ogryn flesh and it makes a really nice dark gold, like tin bitz but not as brown.
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Mar 27, 2012 04:10
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Camera makes a fool out of us all... I was testing goblin paintschemes again since I just added... a lot more of them, and idly painted while listening to vids:  Stupid camera is making me feel bad about it now, though; it looks quite sharp in person. Not bad for three hours work, though.
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Mar 27, 2012 04:51
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Verdugo, man I have to say some of my most enjoyable painting time is when I paint my manly barbies while my daughter paints with watercolor. It just makes the whole experience so much more memorable and fun. I recommend to everyone try painting with someone you care about for the best painting experience. My daughter is only 3, but she enjoys our time painting together just as much as I do. That's a hell of a lot better than anything I have done overthefalls. I just got in some of Vallejo's wash and I have to say I've found it far easier to work with than the Citadel Badab Black wash. It's, for me at least, easier to target, and doesn't seem to pool as much. On top of that  for 200 ml. This jar of wash is going to last me an eon.It's labeled as a "dip formula," but I have to say: I tried it on one of my primed minis and it dried off to be a horrible black mass, but painting it on got remarkable results. Edit: Note to Verdugo. Refind Chaos fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Mar 27, 2012 |
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Mar 27, 2012 05:47
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Indolent Bastard posted:My entry is going to suck rear end, but since I stand no chance of defeating my opponent any way, I don't feel too bad about it. (The sucking rear end is directly related to my renovating my house so I can sell it. I figure that is a somewhat reasonable excuse. Also I'm just not that good of a painter, so there is that too). Since it's single elimination Iron Painter is pretty much a lottery. You never know who you might go up against in each round or how the judges will interpret your piece. I joined to have some fun, show off, learn a thing or two and maybe pick up some raffle prize as a bonus. Neglecting the competition for renovating your house shows that you have pretty sane priorities dude
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Mar 27, 2012 11:07
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 I've been following the glowing tips from the Orboros Army book, I think it's turning out okay, but just wanted the perspective of others. The brighter picture is the flash, I can't seem to get the lighting right so, sorry- and yes I understand that's rather important after I've asked you if the glow looks okay.
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Mar 27, 2012 11:43
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Well, I've taken a shot at highlighting (although it could probably use more) as well as some of the decals and finer details. I'm about to call this first guy done, and would definitely appreciate any and all feedback so that I can improve on my next one.  
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Mar 27, 2012 11:56
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Indolent Bastard posted:The sucking rear end is directly related to my renovating my house so I can sell it. Just submit your house as your entry.
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Mar 27, 2012 11:57
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Just submit your house as your entry. Only if it wasn't already painted when he started 
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Mar 27, 2012 12:00
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quote:Well, I've taken a shot at highlighting (although it could probably use more) as well as some of the decals and finer details. I'm about to call this first guy done, and would definitely appreciate any and all feedback so that I can improve on my next one. Might just be the photos, because I know highlighting always looks different. But I think the two tones are too close together. I am probably just as bad as you, but I think slightly lighter pink- or red- or whatever colour it is you're using might make it stand out more.
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Mar 27, 2012 12:01
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Don't use pink to highlight red, it'll look silly. You should be mixing in yellows to the red, not white. Blazing orange works well, and for a final highlight use vomit brown
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Mar 27, 2012 12:41
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In preparation for the new oath thread I dusted off the old brushes and went back and finished the Command Squad I did last year. Finally decided on a basing scheme, a regimental insignia that wasn't too complicated to reproduce and a squad marking scheme. It's been ages since I've considered a model finished enough for dullcote, let alone a squad. Camera charger and USB cable are awol right now so a camera phone pic will have to do for now. (click for bigger)
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Mar 27, 2012 14:58
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I've just tried out a few of the new citadel paints. The white base/foundation is actually pretty stunning. I got better coverage in one coat over black than I've had from astronomican grey. I think two coats, three at most depending on your thinning for for a good white basecoat. Which compared to the traditional way of getting to a shade as light as that is nothing. It can then be highlighted with a purer white, GW MK staff were painting White Scars marines over black undercoat to learn the new range. I tried out the brighter red base colour as well, someone (sorry forgotten who) said it was like blood red, and it is. It covered better than mechrite, and better than the new base white. Again great. The washes do seem to have less surface tension now, the ones I tried were easier to use than the old style, no pooling on the flat areas at all. Drybrush paint... you only want a very small amount of this on your brush to begin with, seems to do what it says on the tin. The textured basing paint was a lot better than I expected, you clump it down in rather large quantities, but it's easy to control and gives a decent, more to scale, finish. There's a lot of room there for experimenting and doing interesting things with your bases more easily than with glue and sand. The pots themselves are very different. They shouldn't leak all over the rim now, the inside lip thing has been extended a fair bit to stop that. There is indeed a mechanism to hold the lid open, the downside being that you need to make sure the front and back are closed properly now instead of just popping the front down. The bottles should come with a seal on now to keep them from drying out on the shop shelf, and the rim itself has been altered to try and give a better seal. I'm still not buying the whole range set, and the new names are dumb, but I'm confident that GW have actually done a good thing here. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Mar 27, 2012 |
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Mar 27, 2012 15:07
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I'm still not buying the whole range set, and the new names are dumb, but I'm confident that GW have actually done a good thing here. I really agree with this, and I'm honestly surprised that I do. I initially thought that this was another cynical cash grab for GW, but I think they've really put effort into improving and expanding their paint range. For me I think the must-haves will be some of the bases and the glazes.
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Mar 27, 2012 16:03
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Gonna post this here because I finally got internet and a charger for my camera. My first "treekin". This is the skin tone I've gone for on the wood elves themselves, or as close as I could get with a whole different technique.  My chaos dwarf BSB (I forgot I hadn't finished the axe. woops!). I have to say, after painting one of these gorgeous models, I was contemplating actually getting a unit of them, they are so bad rear end.   My K'daaii Destroyer in all its glowing glory:   Also finished my screaming bell and plague priest finally (well, the seer and the rat ogre, the bell and carriage has been finished ages ago):      All in all, five weeks without internet has really increased my productivity
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Mar 27, 2012 16:10
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I know GW doesn't mark poo poo down, but is there any sort of painting MAX SPENDING comparison pricing guide? with GW you get 145 paints + case in the new fliptop and 6 types for $536 shipped. with Vallejo Model/Game Color you get 72 + case in dropper bottles and 3? types (looks like mediums, paints, and washes?) for ~235-280. call it $520 for both sets with Coat d' Arms you get 150 colors in the old hex pots (which are now round?), for $425 (£265) and the 9 washes are sold separately for $25 (£15). with Reaper you get 216 colors in dropper bottles for $660. I haven't used reaper, so I have no clue what varieties they offer? with P3 you get 72 colors, and a ton of other poo poo, with a carrying bag for $430 Actually that bag is kind of neat but I'm sure dick blick has the same thing for "Real Artists" cheaper. Are there other brand assortments I'm forgetting? It doesn't seem like you save that much buying a ton vs by the bottle. Aside from coat d'arms, that is. Obviously, I'm discounting the time spent when I don't have the right shade and need to mix it vs "all the colors", but that's really not that often.
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Mar 27, 2012 16:11
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Skarsnik posted:Don't use pink to highlight red, it'll look silly. You should be mixing in yellows to the red, not white. I like to mix in Bronzed Flesh to highlight red. PotatoManJack, don't be afraid to go farther with your highlights. It's easy to get a sort of zoomed-in tunnel vision where you're 4 inches from the model while painting so you don't want it to look weird at that distance but literally no one will ever see it that close again once you're done, and sometimes to make the highlighting visible at all from gaming distance you need to exaggerate a little. I find that shading is more important than highlighting for making marines in particular look good though, and you have some good dark shading going on, so that guy is tabletop quality already, any highlighting is just practice and making it look even better.
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Mar 27, 2012 16:16
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Vaporware posted:I know GW doesn't mark poo poo down, but is there any sort of painting MAX SPENDING comparison pricing guide? Vallejo Game Color is the 72 color range, matching the old GW range. Vallejo Model Color is some insane number of colors, like 300 or more.
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Mar 27, 2012 16:18
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So I'm really pushing to finish my orks in time for Adepticon. I think I can make it, but one thing that's been bothering me is the best way to do the vehicles. This is how my figures look:  The painted sections are done with a base coat of yellow or red, weathering the edges with boltgun metal, a general coat of devlan mud, and then a second coat of devlan mud around the edges. I'd like to maintain than effect on vehicles, but I don't want to spend 10 hours doing a battlewagon and devlan mud pools on the flat surfaces. So the question I have is this; what's a good way to get that dirty/weathered effect on such a large surface? If I take the new GW shade and spray it through an airbrush could I get that layer of dirty wash without worrying about it pooling? Any other suggestions? EDIT: Also any recommendations for running metallics through an airbrush? Just apply the same approach as regular acrylics?
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Mar 27, 2012 16:40
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