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KYB GR2? That should be pretty close to an "OEM-like" replacement, but I'm not sure if it actually is the OE part (probably slightly stiffer). It's close enough that it doesn't matter. The KYB AGX adjustables are going to be super stiff but you probably didn't buy those as they're much more expensive. As long as your bolts are still present, having them improperly torqued shouldn't affect anything in particular. I would still probably give it a once-over with a torque wrench to make sure things are at least not completely loose. Is it stiff when you first hit a bump, or when the car 'recovers' from one? What tires/size do you have on it currently? Running something like a 17" aftermarket wheel with really shallow sidewalls is going to make the car pretty uncomfortable to drive, but the stock size (205/60/15 on my OBS, so probably yours too) gives you enough sidewall that you can recover from bumps without having to involve the suspension. edit: There's not a lot of good stuff in 205/60/15 for all seasons. Tire Rack carries the Continental DWS in that size, though: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...romCompare1=yes I would also consider the General Altimax HP or the Goodyear Eagle GT, though both of those are fairly sporty all-seasons that will wear faster and might not give you the best snow performance. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 22:56
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GR2s are essentially an oem replacement but some people say they are slightly stiffer than oem. unless something is loose and making loud clunk/banging noise the way things were tightened doesn't particularly matter. There are some things I use a torque wrench for (engine assembly, lug nuts), and the rest is german spec. I suspect what you are feeling is a suspension that actually provides damping vs the old stuff that was just floating along on the springs. You're welcome to come and drive my car around for a few days because your car will feel like a cadillac afterwards.
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Mar 26, 2012 22:59
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Thirding the Continental DWS for a good all-around all-season tire. They are quite excellent in dry and rainy conditions, and definitely more than adequate in the snow. Very little traction difference between my Legacy Sport Sedan on the DWS and my girlfriend's Outback on some cheap studded snows. Granted that mine is a 5-speed and hers is an automatic, I would say the DWS performed well this winter. Plus, they have a 50,000 mile treadwear guarantee.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:00
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You could also consider dropping the size of your tire, provided you're willing to accept a small (less than 3%, ideally) error on your speedometer as a result of the different outer diameter. If you're going to do that, you could probably go to 195/65/15, which is what I did for my winter tires in order to save a few bucks. Your speedometer would be about 1.2% slower than your actual speed, but then you'd have a lot more selection of tires available, including ultra-cheap, warrantied-out-the-rear end stuff like the Goodyear Assurance Touring/FuelMax. It's a really common size that's on a lot of mid-90s Japanese and American economy cars. I probably wouldn't take any of the Goodyear Assurance tires up in the mountains, however. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Mar 26, 2012 |
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Mar 26, 2012 23:08
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Yeah, they are 205/60/15, still running the stock wheels. I'm not sure exactly when it is that it feels rough, I'll pay attention when I'm driving it next and see if I can tell. I guess that's one upside of my main intersection being designed like poo poo and constantly losing asphalt. That's odd, I was looking by tires for the car and it didn't show the DWSes. I'm not necessarily completely opposed to getting two sets of tires, but I'm a college student keeping his car running out of his parents' pockets, and I don't think they would go for it. I don't really see myself needing them either, the city cleans up what snow we get really quickly. The PO put Yokohama YK520s on, and I haven't had any problems with traction that weren't me being stupid. I was just hoping for something with a bit softer ride.
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Mar 26, 2012 23:36
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jamal posted:it is likely due to the rotors. What happens is that uneven pad deposits/thickness variation cause hot spots on the rotor which become harder. so you turn the rotor flat but the hard spots are still there and come back as vibration. Will replacing the rotors without addressing suspension issues that could be amplifying the problem reduce the life of the new rotors? My next project after fixing the braking vibration issue is to upgrade/refresh the suspension. I'm thinking it may be a good idea to do the suspension at the same time as the rotors (especially if the bushings need to be replaced and my suspension upgrade includes an ALK, etc..). For rotors, is KNS Brakes a good site for ordering? I couldn't find any higher quality centric rotors (nothing starting with 125) on any site after inputting my make/model, so I'm guessing they don't make any that fit. For the suspension, I got the car ('05 LGT) at 54K and have around 85K now. It's my daily driver that I occasionally get to have some with with on windy mountain roads on my commute. I also use it for road trips to Tahoe. I have no plans to track or race it at all. The entire suspension is stock (nothing has been replaced). The handling and steering feels less sporty and precise (soft and mushy?) than when I got it, and I've also been noticing more vibration (though nothing compared to what I get while braking) and maybe a bit of wandering. I'd like more sporty performance and feel compared to stock, without being too stiff for daily driving. I don't care about lowering from an aesthetic standpoint, but I don't mind if the perfect set of struts/springs would result in a bit of lowering. I just don't want to have to worry about scraping on every driveway and speed bump I encounter. What parts should I be considering? I'm thinking at least swaybars, struts and an alignment with some negative camber up front, maybe springs, not sure about an ALK or roll center/bump steer correction (only if the car is lowered?) or swaybar links. I've read people have had good results with Bilstein HDs + STi pinks, and I also see Koni inserts recommended a bunch. Here's the bushing: 
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Mar 27, 2012 01:34
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Those bushings have a tendency to do that and the thing to do is to replace them with the Whiteline ALK. The guys at KNS are good, although if you send me a zip code I can get you a quote for some rotors/pads. Also, now is the time to get konis, the annual spring sale is going on. I've sent 4-5 sets out to people in here. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Mar 27, 2012 |
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Mar 27, 2012 01:54
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jamal posted:no. I'm in Brunswick, GA at the moment.
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Mar 27, 2012 03:01
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Need a bit of advice and recommendation on a Subaru we didn't ever get in the U.S... I'm living and working in the boonies of Japan and need a car. Having lived 8 years in the U.S. with a five-speed E30 BMW, I'd like it to be a bit sporty, and as I'm really tall and averse to 660cc death-traps, preferably a white-plate car as opposed to a kei car. I've been looking and sizing up various models but I keep coming back to the 98-03 generation Legacy B4 RSK. It seems to tick a lot of my desired boxes. White plate under 2.0 liters (for tax reasons)? Check. Proper four-door sedan (or the GT-B touring wagon)? Check. Sporty? Check. Fairly easy to find a manual transmission version? Check, even though I'm far from the big population centers of Tokyo and Osaka. So what I want to know is what the common faults are. I know the Aussies and Kiwis have imported a fair few of these, but I'd love to either know the main issues (like for example "timing chain at 35k miles or so" on E30s) so I know what to look for when searching. I'm also not a dumbass and won't run headlong into a car with obvious issues or that's been extensively modified, but knowing the common issues and downsides would be nice. Thanks for the help!
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Mar 27, 2012 03:03
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The twin turbo system is a little complex but overall they're cool cars, especially in a manual.
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Mar 27, 2012 03:58
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We are importing a bunch of them to Canada and they always seem to end up right back on the local classifieds. When I took a daytrip to Banff there were four of them for sale on the same tiny mall bulletin board. Cool cars, but I fear they are a little too difficult to work on here in North America for whatever reason. In Japan, though, fill your boots.
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Mar 27, 2012 04:03
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jamal posted:Those bushings have a tendency to do that and the thing to do is to replace them with the Whiteline ALK. I'm a bit hesitant to hop on the Konis at this moment as I'm not sure I'm up to the task of hacking up the OEM struts. How much longer is the sale on for?
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Mar 27, 2012 06:38
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The perrin is a solid bearing, which I will never recommend on a street car. Eventually they start making noise. I actually had a little e-mail exchange with whiteline over their motorsports alk when it came out because it seemed destined to start clunking/corrode/seize in a short period of time. Haven't seen any angry call out threads on the subaru forums about it so I guess they're either working well or there are not that many out there. The AVO bushings is just an orange colored ver 1 whiteline alk. Whiteline re-designed theirs after some problems with the early ones (which I still blame on installation). Anyway, the whiteline is the way to go. The Koni sale goes until the end of may but I think it only applies to current inventory. My distributor shows 3 sets in stock and koni should have a bunch. Also, the nice thing about the newer Legacy is that you only have to cut apart the front housings- the rears are a complete replacement shock.
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Mar 27, 2012 07:13
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jamal posted:GR2s are essentially an oem replacement but some people say they are slightly stiffer than oem. Just curious -- you guys have a shock dyno at the shop, right? Why not just take a few of each and see?
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Mar 27, 2012 07:21
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I'm looking to trade my wingless trunk for a STi trunk, I've found a guy however his trunk has a tiny spot of rust on it. Since rust can contaminate to other parts of the car should I just steer away from this?
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Mar 27, 2012 16:59
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kimbo305 posted:Just curious -- you guys have a shock dyno at the shop, right? Why not just take a few of each and see? Aside from me having not worked there for ~8mo, the dyno belonged to JRZ suspension. They were nice enough to let me use it on occasion but it was time consuming and a big favor to ask so not a lot of stuff got dynoed. It was kind of unfortunate because they had a bunch of random shocks sitting around there and I always wanted to do a big comparison of cheap stuff vs. good stuff for my website. JRZ has since moved out of that place into their own shop again so it might still get done if/when I end up back in socal. I'd just have to provide a lot of pizza and beer.
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Mar 27, 2012 20:43
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Yakattak posted:I'm looking to trade my wingless trunk for a STi trunk, I've found a guy however his trunk has a tiny spot of rust on it. Since rust can contaminate to other parts of the car should I just steer away from this? Rust isnt AIDS or the clap.
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Mar 27, 2012 22:13
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Crossposting this: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562&pagenumber=632#post401974760 from the stupid questions thread. Anyone know the OEM specs for the rubber(ish) tubing that goes from the fuel filter into the metal fuel lines on the engine? My Haynes stops short of listing the actual specs, and I can't find a part number on subarugenuineparts. Should have done it myself the fist time. Fuuuuck.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:07
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What do you mean specs? Is this a clamped hose on the ends or is it terminated with some sort of crimped on fitting? If its justa clamped hose you can remove, remove it, go to auto parts store, buy length of fuel line hose, reinstall. If it is crimped take it to an industrial fitting and hose supply place locally and they will make you a new one. A high pressure custom A/C line was $55 made locally from a place I like versus over $100 from the dealer.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:29
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Lord Gaga posted:What do you mean specs? Is this a clamped hose on the ends or is it terminated with some sort of crimped on fitting? Just the sizing. If it's a pretty standard thing, that's all I'll do. It's just a hose with a separate clamp. There's a pic in the post I linked to. I just figured there would be some weird Subaru (tm) brand 22.543mm adamantium hose I needed, because that's kind of how that goes with me.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:40
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That is almost certainly not the case. If you live near a hose supplier theyre even more guaranteed to have it.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:44
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Lord Gaga posted:That is almost certainly not the case. If you live near a hose supplier theyre even more guaranteed to have it. Well, that's good. We (weirdly) have a bunch of that kind of stuff here in nowhere, KS for some reason, so it's probably worth checking.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:46
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The Jabberwocky posted:Well, that's good. We (weirdly) have a bunch of that kind of stuff here in nowhere, KS for some reason, so it's probably worth checking. Basically every type of manufacturing will need a hose supplier at some point. Welding, machining, industrial plants, everything. When I was a CNC machinist I was forever running to the place that did my AC lines because this or that sprung a leak or we were building something.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:52
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Yakattak posted:I'm looking to trade my wingless trunk for a STi trunk, I've found a guy however his trunk has a tiny spot of rust on it. Since rust can contaminate to other parts of the car should I just steer away from this? Is your Impreza an 02-07 and obsidian black pearl and you live in the NYC area? Because I hope it is all of those things and you want to buy my STi trunk ok.
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Mar 27, 2012 23:57
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infrared I asked a local and the best place I can come up with is the dealership in jacksonville.Yakattak posted:I'm looking to trade my wingless trunk for a STi trunk, I've found a guy however his trunk has a tiny spot of rust on it. Since rust can contaminate to other parts of the car should I just steer away from this? There is probably a trunk trade thread in your local nasioc section.
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Mar 28, 2012 01:07
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Would y'all replace gaskets that are less than 3k miles old? I swapped them out when I went ~*stage 2*~, doing a vf39 swap next weekend and wondering if they should be swapped out again.
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Mar 28, 2012 01:34
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they're probably fine
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Mar 28, 2012 01:38
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Is it a good idea to replace LCA front bushings and ball joints while I'm at it if I'm already taking the arms off to do the rear bushings?
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Mar 28, 2012 02:38
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jamal posted:infrared I asked a local and the best place I can come up with is the dealership in jacksonville. Yeah, I posted in NESIC, got one guy with a STi trunk, we talked about it for awhile, then he stopped responding to me. I found this trunk on CT Subie, but my car is clean and I don't really want to add rust.
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Mar 28, 2012 04:30
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Splinter posted:Is it a good idea to replace LCA front bushings and ball joints while I'm at it if I'm already taking the arms off to do the rear bushings? Occasionally they will get damaged while taking the control arms out but in socal you shouldn't need to worry about it. If you were planning on doing suspension later on a roll center adjuster is pretty good to have and includes ball joints and tie rods. I also generally leave the front control arm bushing. The stock ones do not have much rubber and don't deflect much and are a huge pain to get out of the steel control arms.
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Mar 28, 2012 05:32
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Reposting from the stupid question thread (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=632#post401945240) My brakes are creaking a bit. Not when I'm slowing down during normal driving, just when I'm coming to a stop. Like under 2mph. I had someone stand outside the car and listen while I drove up and stopped, it sounds a lot different outside. Like a clicking? Someone else suggested it sounded 'springy.' And it's definitely the passenger side front wheel area that is making the noise. Driving performance isn't affected at all so I haven't taken it to the shop yet, planning on going my next day off which is Friday, but I'm really curious what it could be. It's a 2003 wrx that I've had for less than a year. 60k miles.
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Mar 28, 2012 05:33
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dag01 posted:Reposting from the stupid question thread (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=632#post401945240)
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Mar 28, 2012 14:51
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Haven't been on here in forever, but figured I would post what I have been working on for the last few months.  Engine: - Cobb Accessport - K&N Drop In Filter - Nameless Performance AxleBack prototype Suspension: -BC BR Coilovers -Legacy GT bumpstops -Rotiform BLQ 18x8.5" -Continental ExtremeContact DW 245/45-18 Interior: -STRI SLM-II 30psi Boost Gauge -JSC Cubby Pod Exterior: -5% tint -6000k HID's -Nokya Yellow Fog Bulbs -Lamin-x yellow fog light film -Red Tail Light film -Hella Supertones (for extra horsepower) On order are slim roof rails to get rid of the factory rack and other Legacy GT suspension bits to complete the conversion from the god awful Outback suspension setup. Also, a quick detail video from a few weeks back: http://vimeo.com/38778455
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Mar 28, 2012 15:07
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Bojanglesworth posted:Haven't been on here in forever, but figured I would post what I have been working on for the last few months. Wow that looks fantastic. Excuse my detailing ignorance, but what is the tiny red thing you're using after the buffer and wash?
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Mar 28, 2012 16:35
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Falco posted:Wow that looks fantastic. Excuse my detailing ignorance, but what is the tiny red thing you're using after the buffer and wash? Thank you! You mean this thing:  Its just a wax applicator. My friend did the detail, I just filmed. 
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Mar 28, 2012 16:49
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Bojanglesworth posted:Haven't been on here in forever, but figured I would post what I have been working on for the last few months. That looks pretty dang great. I really hate that we can't have wagons in the USDM. They make way more sense to me than the vast majority of SUV/minivans people buy and don't use ever. If I ever buy a new car it will be an LGT wagon.
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Mar 28, 2012 18:28
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The Jabberwocky posted:That looks pretty dang great. I really hate that we can't have wagons in the USDM. They make way more sense to me than the vast majority of SUV/minivans people buy and don't use ever. If I ever buy a new car it will be an LGT wagon. You mean in the current generation? Mine is an 06 Outback XT. Best looking wagon Subaru has offered in the US in my opinion.
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Mar 28, 2012 19:13
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Bojanglesworth posted:You mean in the current generation? Mine is an 06 Outback XT. Best looking wagon Subaru has offered in the US in my opinion. I have a BH Legacy at the moment, and I want to Sti swap it and keep it forever, but yeah if I ever want to get rid of it, it would be for an 05 era LGT wagon. I would argue (weakly, for sure) that the 00-04 Legacy is the best looking car Subaru has ever made, but the 05-07 era was the golden age of Subaru aesthetics without a doubt.
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Mar 28, 2012 19:17
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Bojanglesworth posted:Haven't been on here in forever, but figured I would post what I have been working on for the last few months. Nice, that's a lot like my friend Donnie's outback. I made him bring it to me and did his suspension install so I could pull out all the body spacers.
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Mar 28, 2012 19:47
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jamal posted:Nice, that's a lot like my friend Donnie's outback. I made him bring it to me and did his suspension install so I could pull out all the body spacers. Nice! What wheels and suspension is he running?
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Mar 28, 2012 19:49
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