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Oh I'm sure the bolts themselves are original, as the parts manual correctly identifies them. the right side were 2 standard bolts but the left were 2 hex sockets and the caliper bolts were even in different locations. I just expected the left and right calipers and hardware to be mirror images of each other.
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Apr 2, 2012 03:16
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slidebite posted:Oh I'm sure the bolts themselves are original, as the parts manual correctly identifies them. the right side were 2 standard bolts but the left were 2 hex sockets and the caliper bolts were even in different locations. Weird, never seen that before. All of the ones I've seen have been matched pairs.
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Apr 2, 2012 03:40
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Yesterday I took the Triumph Tiger 1050 in for its big special happy 12k service and also complained about the rear ABS, hopefully the problem is something un-extraordinary. Cross your fingers for me, Cycle Asylum. Today I spent an hour or so rigging some way to actually use soft saddlebags on my ZX10R, and it doesn't even look completely stupid. (Just only sorta stupid.) In the process I found yet another chunk of metal in my rear tire. This one was only dug in about a quarter inch into the meat, so it did no harm this time, but god drat do I run over a lot of tire-puncturing, money-burning metal crap. I've been riding about 2.5 years and have had four, count em FOUR, flat tires.
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Apr 2, 2012 04:04
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Z3n posted:Weird, never seen that before. All of the ones I've seen have been matched pairs. Could be something to do with the way the bike is assembled at the factory. Station 23 puts in standard bolts in these 8 locations, including one side of the caliper, and station 37 puts in socket-head bolts in a further 12 locations, including the other side of the caliper. This way the caliper is assembled in the optimum manner and each station only has to deal with one kind of fastener. It would be weird, but I've seen weirder poo poo happen in factories when the engineer optimized for initial production rather than ease of maintenance. See for instance those terrible cab-forward Chryslers where you have to take the front wheel off to access the battery.
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Apr 2, 2012 04:40
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invision posted:
Talk about a front break!
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Apr 2, 2012 10:17
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I got some 2011+ fairings dirt cheap, all I had to do was trade in my old ones and pay a pittance. I've lost the Miami Beach style 'Daytona' on the bottom and now it's like some T2 script but I think it's an improvement.  
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Apr 2, 2012 11:54
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mootmoot posted:I've lost the Miami Beach style 'Daytona' on the bottom and now it's like some T2 script but I think it's an improvement. I thought that was your favorite part? 
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Apr 2, 2012 12:59
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mootmoot posted:I got some 2011+ fairings dirt cheap, all I had to do was trade in my old ones and pay a pittance. Where did you get the compwerkes exhaust in the UK? Must postage to be paid?
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Apr 2, 2012 15:02
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mootmoot posted:Looking real good without spike-bolts. I think, I could ride that thing without feeling too homosexual. Good job.
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Apr 2, 2012 16:18
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Sagebrush posted:I thought that was your favorite part?
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Apr 2, 2012 16:36
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Had some reflective decals made: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3470168&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post402122617  The stormtrooper is not for me.
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Apr 2, 2012 16:44
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We chopped the backbone/airbox thingy off the vt800, chopped off the back end of the frame, tacked in a new backbone and got the new sporty tank frisco'd.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:11
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Z3n posted:Weird, never seen that before. All of the ones I've seen have been matched pairs. Same here. Couple of pics just for interests sake: Right hand side, standard bolts and locations circled:  Left side. Socket heads and different spot. Bottom one was very small. Actually same size of socket head as the pad pin. 
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Apr 2, 2012 17:20
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slidebite posted:Same here. Couple of pics just for interests sake: If you look that small bottom bolt is actually a pivot for some sort of anti-dive system that is applied with the force of the caliper being pushed forward when you apply the brakes.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:30
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_Dav posted:Where did you get the compwerkes exhaust in the UK? Must postage to be paid? I got it sent to the uk from TJ on forum@ridersdiscount.com. It cost me $675 (£421) including shipping. http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49851 eBay will run you £500, which is a similar price to the werkes website itself.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:37
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Olde Weird Tip posted:If you look that small bottom bolt is actually a pivot for some sort of anti-dive system that is applied with the force of the caliper being pushed forward when you apply the brakes. Yeah, I actually did figure that  .I thought I might actually do the pads without taking if off but unfortunately the caliper only swung back only slightly before the hose slack ran out.. and would have hit the rim anyhow. So I had to take it right out. Same torque specs as all the other mounting bolts though.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:38
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slidebite posted:Same here. Couple of pics just for interests sake: Interesting, thanks for posting the pictures. As phat albert says, there's obviously some hardware in there that must be the reason for the non-matched setup
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Apr 2, 2012 17:50
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Z3n posted:Nope, they're probably not the original pads! Why do you say that? I had 22k mi on my Vstar's original pads when I parted with it and they were still (barely) above the wear indicators.
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Apr 2, 2012 20:06
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clutchpuck posted:Why do you say that? I had 22k mi on my Vstar's original pads when I parted with it and they were still (barely) above the wear indicators. I was going off the non-matching bolts but apparently that's stock. 
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Apr 2, 2012 21:02
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I put those bars on my sv, along with the front MC from an Aprilla Mille and some new brake lines. previously :   now   The whole gang, 2350 ccs of ridin on mah soosuukay 
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Apr 2, 2012 21:24
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Definitively diagnosed the rolling knock I've had for a little while. I was afraid the front sprocket had chucked a tooth or something, but there's just a smallish section of chain with different slack. How's that happen anyway? Edit: Oh, I also bent the broken peg return spring on the left side until it worked again. Bixington fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Apr 3, 2012 |
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Apr 3, 2012 02:49
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FYI: If you can't get that part of your chain loose like the rest, it's toast.
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Apr 3, 2012 14:27
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Clean and lube your chain really well, it might be worth it to take it off and soak it overnight. I've got the stock chain on my DRZ and It's not long for this world methinks, it's doing a similar thing.
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Apr 3, 2012 17:18
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I installed a new horn. It's a hoot while splitting past open windows.
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Apr 4, 2012 04:33
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SaNChEzZ posted:I installed a new horn. That's brilliant. Now I want one. Do they come in pink?
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Apr 4, 2012 07:16
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Husky was almost ready to roll outside until I noticed the clutch fluid was leaking. Well, it always leaked, but now it emptied the reservoir overnight. I had an extra aftermarket piston for just this thing, so I'm hoping it works. What the hell is supposed to be the advantage of a hydro-clutch anyway? The thing is notorious for leaking and kills any kind of clutch feel whatsoever.
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Apr 5, 2012 01:12
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SaNChEzZ posted:I installed a new horn. Haha that's great. I want one like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rf0N2_FKtuI Gnaghi posted:
I'm guessing it is to provide lighter lever forces for more powerful engines which need stiffer clutch springs.
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Apr 5, 2012 07:37
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Gnaghi posted:Husky was almost ready to roll outside until I noticed the clutch fluid was leaking. Well, it always leaked, but now it emptied the reservoir overnight. I had an extra aftermarket piston for just this thing, so I'm hoping it works. The hydraulic clutch on the 690 is lovely and smooth, light too, lighter than the cable clutch in my 175cc BSA even, a bike with a quarter of the CCs and a sixth of the power. Mine uses mineral oil, and has required zero maintenance, zero adjustment with zero leaks in over three years of constant operation. Basically, if they're done right they are the best option. If they are made by Husqvarna however, YMMV.
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Apr 5, 2012 09:12
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It looks like it may be fixed with a clutch piston from 7602 racing, a company that specializes in things the bike should have came with from the factory. The Husky one is made by Magura and is actually heavier then the cable clutch on my 636. I feel sorry for the owners who refill it with "Magura Blood" brand oil, I've been using a 2.99 bottle of mineral oil from Walgreens and it's lasted me years.
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Apr 5, 2012 10:36
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I finally turned over 1500 miles on the Hypermotard I bought almost three years ago.  It was in the shop for six months out of the first year of ownership for brake problems. At that point I started to loathe the thing. Then I got married and got too fat for my leathers. Now that I live in an area with great roads within an hour from home I have started to ride more. Plus I've lost enough weight to get back into the leather. I would have sold the thing long ago but I'm upside down and would lose too much money. But since I have started riding it again, I remember why I bought it in the first place. 
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Apr 5, 2012 21:56
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Got my new air cleaner assembly in for my vlx Ordered new jets for my carb to fit the new airflow. Also ordered a used sporty tank to cut the bottom out and frisco it. Also bought the tubing to make my new exhaust and talked to the guy I know that does seats about upholstering my seat pan... looks liek we are going to go with dark brown alligator. Once this is done it all I have left is the new bars, mirrors and controls, a 21 inch front wheel and paint.
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Apr 6, 2012 17:29
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Howdy two wheel goons, So, I've been trying to help my friend with his Yamaha R6 (02 I think). Last fall he started taking it apart to do the valve shims then got pissed off with the timing chain and so it sat all winter while I took up the garage space putting a V8 into an old Volvo. He has been taking the lead on this project, I'm just trying to help. We got it all back together today and threw the battery in it and we got nothing. There was power to all the accessories spedo/tach etc but no start. After messing around with the wiring going to the starter relay I noticed two things. One if I fiddle with the wires enough I can get it to crank, but it won't start and I'm not sure what it is that I'm doing to get it to start cranking. Two, the one 30a fuse on the starter relay doesn't seat properly, but the bike will still crank over without it even in at all. After trying to start it (and cranking on the throttle) I noticed a distinct smell of gas out of the tail pipe so we called it quits for a while because I'm pretty sure its flooded. He said that when he had it apart he didn't do anything with the carbs and the fuel pump is new. I personally think he is in need for a carb rebuild because he likes to let the bike sit for months on end with fuel in it. I'm not sure how to check spark other then testing the wires off the ICU (one is orange and the other grey) that go to the coils but I haven't been able to test that properly. So what say you, cycle asylum? How can I get my friend on his bike and not bitching at me about my Volvo.
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Apr 6, 2012 21:58
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Babby's first chain clean. What a poo poo show. I knew it was going to be bad. And it was. poo poo looked like it hadn't been cleaned in a year. (Which makes sense since the kid who owned it after the adult first owner was a dummy but he only had it a year) A few mm of thick grime was anywhere the chain was near. The chain guard had an inch thick of slime. Now you can eat off all of it. Nice to see it has a DID X chain though. A little bit of sharktooth is starting on the rear sprocket. How often should the front sprocket be inspected/cleaned? I gotta take of a bunch of poo poo to get to mine.
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Apr 6, 2012 22:50
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Ziploc posted:Babby's first chain clean. Cleaned? Ehh, it'll clean enough when you clean the chain. Check 'em infrequently, these things last just as long as rears and chains.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:20
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Flushed the brakes in the CRF. I then proceeded to attempt a few stoppies lock the front pulling into the garage. Yup much better than they were before. Also did oil because it's quick and it was getting close to needing it anyways. Bike is now ready for the track next Monday.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:26
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Oh, I also popped that intake drain plug off. Expecting a little bit of moisture or water or something. NOT THE ORANGE WEIRD poo poo THAT POURED OUT.
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Apr 7, 2012 00:08
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Retrieved it from my folks' neighbours, wheeled it across the street, and started taking it apart. Head is off, cleaned the carbon off the piston heads. Tomorrow will be cleaning off the valves, checking all the bits, and put as much of it back together as I have time for. Found a couple of screws on their last days, definitely gotta replace them. Might get to use my new impact wrench!
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Apr 7, 2012 03:16
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I pulled the battery to charge. I will put it back tomorrow to make sure it works.
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Apr 7, 2012 03:18
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Added an iPhone charger and holder to my Monster today. The charger is formed from the Battery Tender -> cigarette lighter adapter, with a Griffin dual USB adapter attached. Then I found one of those kickin' rad iPod cables with blue light-up wiring that make it look like bits are actually flying across the wire. I used Ducati's existing frame -> fork -> headlight -> left-side control wiring cluster (and removable rubber tie-straps, which are awesome) to cleanly route the iPod cable up to the stand. Here's a little crappy nighttime pic of the cable! Oh, I also installed TONS of new stuff. A Motodynamic integrated taillight, axle and frame sliders, Rizoma rearsets, Rizoma front indicators, and a whole Rizoma bar/grip/weights combo with CRG roll-a-click levers Lane Splitter mirrors. I guess I'll take some nice pics tomorrow!! Fixed Gear Guy fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 03:27
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Did a transition over to Rotella synthetic oil for both SV650s today along with K&N oil filters. I also plated the new one and got to check out the bike's whole body while on the ground... looking good. 2000 SV650: 37k miles 2001 SV650: 32k miles 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 04:04
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