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psydude posted:I need an opinion on my kitchen sink. I just moved into this apartment 3 months ago and have had a lot of problems with it clogging. There's no garbage disposal, but I'm careful about what I put down there and after running a bunch of draino through it was still having issues. I decided to take a look and noticed that the loving pipe runs UPHILL (it's hard to tell from the photo, but it is most definitely a slight incline) from the trap to the connector. I'm not an expert, but I did receive a little training on plumbing proofing in the military, and I'm fairly certain that this is not to code. I know it varies from location to location, but I live in Annapolis, MD if that helps at all. I want to be absolutely certain before I go calling up the landlady to complain. Also the fact that it's an S trap isn't good. It could use a vent but its most likely grand fathered in. I'd tell them it keeps backing up and have them snake it. It should take care of most the problem. Unless you are getting a ton of stuff building up in that short back graded trap arm.
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Feb 25, 2012 21:53
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Okay, thanks. I just emailed her and asked her to get someone (other than her son) out here to look at it.
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Feb 26, 2012 17:06
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I made a post here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3468961 asking about being a plumber. If any of you experienced plumbers can answer my questions I would appreciate it.
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Feb 26, 2012 19:39
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oddbrawl posted:I made a post here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3468961 I enjoy it a lot. But I will warn you. If you have an ego , you might as well not attempt this now. Because if you work for someone other then this guy. You may have a boss a lot younger then you. And as an apprentice you are a grunt. You do the hardest jobs until you get more experience. Also the quicker you can learn stuff the better off you will be. My first day all I did was cut pipe and hand someone tools. So as long as you don't have an issue starting off at the bottom of the food chain you should be fine.
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Feb 26, 2012 22:04
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Also if you state offers schooling take it. I went over to idaho to take a 4 year course that helped me get my Commercial Journeyman card. And buy tools, don't be that guy who barely has poo poo. Obviously your first day you don't have to have everything. You will learn what you need but at least have a 6" level, tape measure, a hammer,8 or 10 inch cressent wrench , multi screwdriver and I think most important of all some 10 inch pumps (channel locks). This is my favorite pair I have. They aren't cheap but I love them. http://www.reedmfgco.com/index.html?screen=water_pump_pliers
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Feb 28, 2012 03:50
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I want to install a water softener but I don't have a drain in my basement. I'd like to use the laundry drain is on the first floor so I'd be looking at a 8-10 foot vertical lift and about a 30 foot horizontal run. Am I right in assuming that most softeners uses the house water pressure and not their own pump to flush the unit? If so this long drain hose shouldn't be an issue, right? Canuckistan fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 19:53
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Canuckistan posted:I want to install a water softener but I don't have a drain in my basement. I'd like to use the laundry drain is on the first floor so I'd be looking at a 8-10 foot vertical lift and about a 30 foot horizontal run. How old is your house? Where is your water heater and HVAC? Those both use drains. Well, ACs and humidifiers can use condensate pumps... Do you have a sump in your basement? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 15, 2012 |
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Mar 15, 2012 23:17
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Neither my water heater nor HVAC uses drains. Water heater and HVAC are actually the same unit, oil fired boiler, and there's no central AC or humidifier. I have several sumps on the other side of the basement but they empty outside onto the lawn. It's against code to empty into the sewer system here. The house is 35 years old and my water pump is in the "cold room", which is off to the side of the basement. I'm on well water now and I assume that when city water comes through they'll be putting the hookup into the same room. The basement has no floor drains. The main sewer pipe for the house is accessable in the basement so perhaps a drain could be installed into that? I'm hoping to get away with minimal plumber costs. Canuckistan fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Mar 16, 2012 |
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Mar 16, 2012 01:50
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A few months ago I posted about my dishwasher leaking. I originally thought it was due to the rain (maybe a backup or something), but it's been raining like crazy this week and I haven't seen any water from it. What I did notice is that grey water will show up (inside the dishwasher) after I do dishes by hand and the garbage disposal is backed up (though we never use it). Once I clear the line by turning on the disposal, grey water starts to show up at the bottom of the dishwasher. I haven't confirmed this yet, as I still believe it may be rain water due to it smelling so bad (and seeing bugs sometimes), but I'll check the next time it backs up. The dishwasher has no air gap, it is just a high loop connected to the garbage disposal. Could that be what's causing the issue? (i.e., maybe the high loop isn't high enough?) I have space for an air gap -- would it be better to install that instead?
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Mar 16, 2012 21:59
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Air gas are code pretty much everywhere, but having said that, I put in a high loop for my dishwasher to have a sink mounted soap dispenser and it has worked fine for years. If we ever sell, I will put the air gap back if they request, but you should be okay with a high loop as long as it is higher than your drainage pipes under the sink. Is it reinforced any way to stay high? If not, maybe some pipe straps to the bottom of your counter or in the back wall if you have a stone countertop. I don't know how it could be rain.
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Mar 17, 2012 22:31
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Canuckistan posted:I want to install a water softener but I don't have a drain in my basement. I'd like to use the laundry drain is on the first floor so I'd be looking at a 8-10 foot vertical lift and about a 30 foot horizontal run. What type of softener. If its not a powered softener it can cause issues when the drain line is to long.
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Mar 18, 2012 23:11
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jackyl posted:Air gas are code pretty much everywhere, but having said that, I put in a high loop for my dishwasher to have a sink mounted soap dispenser and it has worked fine for years. If we ever sell, I will put the air gap back if they request, but you should be okay with a high loop as long as it is higher than your drainage pipes under the sink. Is it reinforced any way to stay high? If not, maybe some pipe straps to the bottom of your counter or in the back wall if you have a stone countertop. The high loop isn't reinforced, but I'll try that. Otherwise I'll try the air gap instead.
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Mar 19, 2012 04:10
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This is sort of a random question, but does anyone know if the faucets and other fixtures available through plumbers and plumbing supply houses are of better quality than the home depot stuff? We had a plumber out for a leaky faucet and got into a conversation about good brands, and he said the stuff you can buy at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. is almost always shittier quality, even for the same brand and model. He said they may look the same, but the one on the shelves at big box stores use shoddier internal components, thinner gauge metals, etc., and it's even true of the more expensive fixtures. Is there any truth to this, or is he just trying to get me to order future faucets from them instead of home depot?
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Mar 23, 2012 19:58
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a handful of dust posted:This is sort of a random question, but does anyone know if the faucets and other fixtures available through plumbers and plumbing supply houses are of better quality than the home depot stuff? Ive heard the same thing but I honestly can't prove its true.
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Mar 24, 2012 02:52
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I can't find plumbing code that addresses my situation. I have an unfinished bathroom in my basement that I'd like to finish. It looks like there was some hastily installed copper piping to accommodate a toilet in the room. The piping isn't going through the floor joists and such. It's just kinda hanging off the ceiling. I know I need to cut that and route it through the floor joists eventually. The sewer outlets for the toilet and bath are positioned along an exterior wall, so my hot and cold water would have to travel the same path. I'm not worried about pipes freezing as they won't be leaving the house at any point and will be travelling through an insulated wall. Is putting water piping on an exterior wall against code? If not, what can I do to help prevent pipes freezing?
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Apr 1, 2012 22:17
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It is against code in washington. If you get down to freezing conditions i wouldn't suggest it.
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Apr 1, 2012 23:20
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I've got a frost-proof sillcock that's super squeaky when I turn it to open or close the valve, but it doesn't leak at all. Can I just lube the stem with something, and if so, what?
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Apr 2, 2012 16:15
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Jared592 posted:I've got a frost-proof sillcock that's super squeaky when I turn it to open or close the valve, but it doesn't leak at all. Can I just lube the stem with something, and if so, what? You could probably use a faucet lube on it and it should help. Just make sure not to use an petrolatum based lube or it will ruin the O rings.
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Apr 3, 2012 03:51
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Thanks, I have some of this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100187900/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=silcone+grease I've give it a shot.
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Apr 3, 2012 03:59
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Jared592 posted:Thanks, I have some of this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100187900/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=silcone+grease Ya it should work, but I havent tried it. My parents had some that did the same thing. I just got annoyed with them and installed two 1/4 turn hose bibs for them. They are so nice except if you over turn them you can mess them up.
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Apr 3, 2012 05:40
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My water pipes rattle whenever I shut off the faucets. What's the fix for that? Strap them down tighter? Hammer arresters?
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Apr 3, 2012 18:59
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kid sinister posted:My water pipes rattle whenever I shut off the faucets. What's the fix for that? Strap them down tighter? Hammer arresters? What type of pipes are you dealing with, how far between supports?
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Apr 4, 2012 03:03
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:What type of pipes are you dealing with, how far between supports? All my water pipes are copper. Running across the floor joists: they're supported every 6 to 7 feet. Running with the floor joists, a joist spanner every 7 to 9 feet. I noticed that some of my joist spanners were... odd. The pipes are just ran through a full-height joist spanner, and the pipes are not really fastened, with holes so large they leave lots of wiggle room. 
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Apr 4, 2012 18:07
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kid sinister posted:All my water pipes are copper. Running across the floor joists: they're supported every 6 to 7 feet. Running with the floor joists, a joist spanner every 7 to 9 feet. You need a hammer arrester.3/4 copper is 6 feet between spans that it needs to be supported. You can get some pound in inserts to support it more but its most likely water hammer that is your problem.
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Apr 5, 2012 06:49
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You need a hammer arrester.3/4 copper is 6 feet between spans that it needs to be supported. You can get some pound in inserts to support it more but its most likely water hammer that is your problem. OK, I can install hammer arresters and put some more straps on my 3/4" pipe. I just noticed one strap was missing on my 3/4" over my water heater anyway. It looks like a past owner removed that strap to take up the slack from cutting the vertical pipe a fraction of an inch too short... I was thinking J hooks and maybe some suspension clamps for those thru-spanner holes in my picture. Where do I install my hammer arresters, and how do I figure out the size I need?
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Apr 5, 2012 13:04
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kid sinister posted:OK, I can install hammer arresters and put some more straps on my 3/4" pipe. I just noticed one strap was missing on my 3/4" over my water heater anyway. It looks like a past owner removed that strap to take up the slack from cutting the vertical pipe a fraction of an inch too short... I was thinking J hooks and maybe some suspension clamps for those thru-spanner holes in my picture. You know I know they usually install them near dishwashers and washing machines because they have have the electronic solenoid valve. Now is this water hammer on the hot and cold side or just one?
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Apr 5, 2012 14:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You know I know they usually install them near dishwashers and washing machines because they have have the electronic solenoid valve. Now is this water hammer on the hot and cold side or just one? On both. My bathroom faucet has 1/4 turn handles on it if that matters. It might happen near the washing machine, but the pipes for that are bolted to the concrete basement wall.
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Apr 5, 2012 23:28
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kid sinister posted:On both. My bathroom faucet has 1/4 turn handles on it if that matters. It might happen near the washing machine, but the pipes for that are bolted to the concrete basement wall. put a hammer arrester on the hot and cold side by your bathroom lav. I dont know if they make one large enough for the hole house. And you can't over support pipe. So if you wanted to throw up a couple insulators and J hooks it wont hurt anything.
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Apr 6, 2012 00:42
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Hey Rd Rash, I was asking for your help about a year ago or so on building out my shower plumbing extension and vent stack, I'd like to thank you for your help and you can see the finished product here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3476958
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Apr 6, 2012 20:21
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Ahz posted:Hey Rd Rash, Well glad everything worked out and you're welcome.
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Apr 7, 2012 22:35
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Okay.. Looking for some insight about a unique situation I have here. The facts: I have no curbs I live next door to plumbers They Park their F2/350's etc in front of my house 5 days a week because they don't have parking in front of their building for their employees They were here in Late December / early January for slow drains and ran an auger down my main sewer pipe. They were here 3 weeks ago and ran an auger down my main sewer pipe.\ They keep saying it's roots.. My drain is slow again from clean-out to street It can't possibly be roots again they were here 3-4 weeks ago. So I did some investigating.. there is a puddle (that really has been constant) right where they park every day.It is surely drain water coming from my house (I emptied the puddle out.. we did the showering etc that we could without overloading the system... and it's a puddle again). And it hasn't rained for over a week. This leads me to believe that my pipe is collapsed / separated. The question is.. Think I can get them to replace / fix that section that they park over..since it's their employees that don't know the difference between asphalt and dirt / mud. Think they'll believe that they are partially liable, or will they say that it's too deep and they didn't cause it. Plus they've run the rooter 2x down pipe that isn't complete. (if they don't want to play ball I'll be doing everything I can do to get a no parking from here to corner in front of my home with the reasoning of visibility from pulling out of my driveway (Their trucks are hard to see past).. And that they could possibly be causing maintenance issues. Is this the city's problem if it's so close to the road Under "their" part of my property.. with their tree. (The part between the sidewalk and street)?
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Apr 8, 2012 16:42
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I want to replace my leaky, never cleaned by the previous owners gold chrome Also, is anything I would buy at say Home Depot crap compared to something a professional plumber would get? I know Moen and other brands have their lower priced products made in China but is the quality that much worse? I can not afford $250 for each fixture and my duplex isn't high end enough to warrant expensive fixtures.
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Apr 8, 2012 18:11
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tater_salad posted:Okay.. Looking for some insight about a unique situation I have here. It may cost you some money but hire a company to put a drain camera down your main line and see exactly what it is. How old is the house? If its fairly new and used pvc or abs then roots shouldnt be a problem. And if you can prove their trucks crushed it then they are liable no matter what. MH Knights posted:I want to replace my leaky, never cleaned by the previous owners gold chrome Ive heard that the quality is different but I can't really prove it so for now I will call it a myth. And if you don't want your fixtures to stain then get a water softener. It will prolong the life of your water heater and your fixtures. And if you get ORB or BN you should change out all the fixtures trim becuase a chrome tub trim and a BN faucet trim looks ghetto.
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Apr 8, 2012 19:31
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I am going to have a cam done of my drain, I'm tired of paying 135 every 6weeks to throw a bandage on a bigger issue. I'll see if the neighbors can give me a discount on running the cam because they have run the rooter down it twice. The problem is with the plumbers is its not the same truck in the Same spot every day, but we'll see if they feel like being nice or not once the issue is figured out
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Apr 8, 2012 20:44
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I would have someone else run the camera down it. So you get a real reason its having issues.
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Apr 8, 2012 20:55
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Welp, they ran the camera and, the city sewer is clogged with roots. The bad news is... It's the storm sewer. Now I get to meet with the town to see if they will clean it out, or if they will make me run it to the sanitary. Edit, city's fixing it, wife was home and the plumbers talked to her, but $0 out of my pocket hooray tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 15:18
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I have a cast iron pipe from my 2nd bathroom that connects with ABS. They were connected with a rubber sleeve and have come apart. I was just going to reconnect them but decided to have a plumber look at it. They quoted me $650 to just put it back the way it was, no warranty, which seems ridiculous. This company has done work for me before and has always been reasonable but I can't justify the expense just to slap a rubber sleeve over two pipes. Am I underestimating the difficulty here? Either way I don't have money as I've had to do some other recent repairs so I'm stuck doing it myself. Any tips or advice is definitely needed. Here are some pics. From the back, looking toward the leak.  Close up 
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Apr 9, 2012 19:37
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Disclaimer, I am not a plumber. You should be able to grab another sleeve and re connect it. I would also support the pipe so that it isn't stressing the rubber connector. That quote seems like it is to replace the cast iron with pvc, not just put the connection back in place.
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Apr 9, 2012 20:26
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tater_salad posted:Disclaimer, I am not a plumber. No, that quote was just to replace the connector. Replacing the cast iron was $1200, no warranty. For a warranty it was over $2200. I got a different guy than the previous times they were out and either they have jacked up their pricing or the previous guy was giving me a hella good price. They charged me less to install a water heater to a new location and run new lines.
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Apr 9, 2012 20:45
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Call someone else, those prices seem even beyond roto rooter crazy.. How long is the run of pipe?
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Apr 9, 2012 21:47
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