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What type of servo should I be looking at for starting out racing onroad? My only experience with servos comes from buying servos for Savage/LST/MTs in general so they are all metal geared and super torquey, but to me it doesnt seem like torque is as critical as hi-speed. Im familiar with HiTec servos but apparently now savox and a few other brands are churning out good models much cheaper? I have a TC5R, will be running VTA (HPI vintage tires) and 21.5 class.
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# ? Mar 27, 2012 00:55 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 03:03 |
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I don't run onroad, but I've been super impressed with Savox servos for offroad. I run the 1258 in most of my stuff, it's got great torque and is plenty fast without being twitchy. 167 oz in @ 6V, .08 transit time. I'm still running the very first one I ever got... it's got TONS of time on it and is still as good as new. If you want something a little faster the 1257 gives up a bit of torque to drop down to .07sec transit time.
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# ? Mar 27, 2012 16:47 |
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If I wanted to start building a 1/8 crawler, where should I start? I'd like to find something used cheap somewhere that is mostly already together ready for upgrades. What kind of thing like that has the most aftermarket options?
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# ? Mar 27, 2012 23:11 |
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I would say Clodbuster, but the momentum in the market is definitely fully behind 1/10th scalers, so I don't know how much 1/8th stuff you'll be able to find.
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# ? Mar 27, 2012 23:58 |
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Oh alright. So what in the 1/10th is equivalent ?
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# ? Mar 28, 2012 18:33 |
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Scour ebay or RC forum for a used Axial SCX10 would be my first suggestion. Loads of options to fit those, that's the jumping-off point for building up a custom rail chassis like what you can get from RC4WD, etc.
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# ? Mar 28, 2012 18:42 |
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Built a 8.2e yesterday. I blame kuffs.
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# ? Apr 2, 2012 14:28 |
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suck it, other people's disposable income
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 00:01 |
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Olde Weird Tip posted:Make the investment in Lipos. Seriously, the VXL really wakes up with that much punch behind it, and charging is a much more precise process with less guessing I would love to step up to lipo but I cant scrabble together the cash for a charger and a cell right now. I'm loving the extra run time I'm seeing with the 5100. When that battery starts getting weak I'll probably pull the trigger on the lipo. I'm a bit frightened to see how fast I can break poo poo with the extra speed.
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 01:39 |
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Anyone interested in buying my 1/16 Slash VXL? My old apartment had an alley out back that would have been the perfect bashing area, but I wound up moving before I really had a chance to use it. The thing's fun as hell, waaaay faster than I expected, but I don't have a great place to run it at my new apartment. A crawler would be much better here so I'm hoping to sell it and move that direction. I've only put 4 batteries or so through and everything seems to be in good shape, except the body which is scratched up a bit. It also has as set of stiffer springs and thicker shock fluid which helped immensely with traction rolling. edit: I also have a sway bar kit for the full sized slash if anyone's interested. Apparently I don't read descriptions very carefully when shopping online.
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 02:51 |
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Nathan Explosion posted:I would love to step up to lipo but I cant scrabble together the cash for a charger and a cell right now. I'm loving the extra run time I'm seeing with the 5100. When that battery starts getting weak I'll probably pull the trigger on the lipo. I'm a bit frightened to see how fast I can break poo poo with the extra speed. As much as I'm behind supporting your local hobby shop, batteries are one thing that make zero sense to buy locally. For cheap lipos it's basically impossible to beat hobbyking and hobbypartz. Battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14976__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S1P_20C_hardcase_pack_USA_Warehouse_.html Charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18066__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories_USA_Warehouse_.html
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 15:37 |
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I am getting my drift tto1 back up and running, and am waiting on a couple batteries I ordered off of amazon. Even if they are crap, whatever, drifting takes very little draw and i got 2 5000mah batteries with deans plugs for 50 bucks. I also ordered a new body and I am going to try and use my airbrush to paint it so we will see how that first attempt goes. It wont be done until next week sometime because I am going out of state, but I am finally getting the RC itch for probably the 8th time in my life. If only I can actually convince some of my friends to take it up with me I will be good.
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 16:00 |
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needknees posted:As much as I'm behind supporting your local hobby shop, batteries are one thing that make zero sense to buy locally. For cheap lipos it's basically impossible to beat hobbyking and hobbypartz Holy god. I'll be getting those in the very near future. Thank you for the heads up! The 5100 nimh I bought at the shop cost more than both of those combined. I'll report back once I get them. Maybe my stampede will keep up with my buddy's Jato with a hot, hot lipo injection. My local shop is awesome but some of the prices are exorbitant, especially for alloy parts. Another question, is there a good way to balance tires on a truck like my stampede. I bought a set of pro line trenchers and got 3 of them glued perfect. The 4th is a bit wobbly but it appears to be glued straight. Is there a way to get it spinning smooth without ripping it off of the wheel?
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# ? Apr 3, 2012 22:48 |
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Nathan Explosion posted:Holy god. I'll be getting those in the very near future. Thank you for the heads up! The 5100 nimh I bought at the shop cost more than both of those combined. I'll report back once I get them. Maybe my stampede will keep up with my buddy's Jato with a hot, hot lipo injection. with the larger tires on MTs I would put the liner in the tire and then massage it for about 5 minutes. Squeeze, fold, bend, deform like it was play-doh in my hands and then mount them to the wheels. I joined my local club last night and am edging closer and closer to finally hitting the track 1 of my A-main orders is hopefully going to be here before the long weekend, with the rest of it getting here probably on the other side. at least I will have a body to paint and tools to play with. UPDATE: i got all my stuff, and all I can say is Gluing onroad tires, specifically HPI vintage tires and wheels, is a BITCH. anyone got advice for getting dried CA off the tread? Laserface fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Apr 4, 2012 |
# ? Apr 4, 2012 01:55 |
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M05 Pro done, what a fun little build, so fun while checking the shipping of my motor esc combo on ebay I decided to get its value in hop ups. Once they get here I get to strip it down and rebuild it all over again! last weekend after we finished bashing around the off road track, we went to the parking lot so some of the guys can try their new hpi cup racers. Man they are fun to drive, so much fun i found and won one on ebay. Comes with an Exotek chassis but also all the original parts. I really need to stop looking at ebay.
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 18:50 |
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needknees posted:Battery Holy poo poo. So those are actually legit? If so, I'll be purchasing both. I'm using an old Lipo that i bought several years ago, but didn't want to buy a new one because my last one was expesnive As for the guy asking about crawlers....just go buy an Axial SCX10. They are the poo poo. Here are some more shots of my lil Comanche SCX10. The 1:1 rig is my bosses. Not pictured was me tearing the parking lot up in the big one I adore this little truck. The fucker tears through anything.
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 21:02 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Holy poo poo. So those are actually legit? If so, I'll be purchasing both. I'm using an old Lipo that i bought several years ago, but didn't want to buy a new one because my last one was expesnive They're completely legit. There's only a few manufacturers of lipos in the world, nearly all of which are in China. Most of the "big name" batteries are cheap Chinese cells in a hard case with the 'manufacturer's' sticker slapped on it and a price tag 3x or more what you can get them for from hobbyking/hobbypartz. I've been running turnigy and gens ace lipos in both cars and helis (small and 500 class) and have had GREAT luck with them. The turnigy nano-tech packs are a little higher quality than the one I linked. Higher capacity with a far better discharge rating, and you can get them in 4mm bullet plug versions for more options on connecting it to your esc. The hobbypartz Gens Ace 5000 (either 40c or 50c) are very nice packs as well, but they're perpetually out of stock. If you're looking for something to just tool around with the linked turnigy 5000 20c pack would be fine. Edit - One thing you do get by going with a big name battery over the hobbyking/partz stuff is warranty. I did have two gens ace 6s packs that were DOA that I got replaced without hassle, for what it's worth. Never had a turnigy pack crap out in short order. The reality is even if you get a dud pack they're so goddamn much cheaper than the alternative you come out ahead by rolling the dice on cheap packs. needknees fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Apr 4, 2012 |
# ? Apr 4, 2012 22:03 |
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needknees posted:They're completely legit. There's only a few manufacturers of lipos in the world, nearly all of which are in China. Most of the "big name" batteries are cheap Chinese cells in a hard case with the 'manufacturer's' sticker slapped on it and a price tag 3x or more what you can get them for from hobbyking/hobbypartz. I've been running turnigy and gens ace lipos in both cars and helis (small and 500 class) and have had GREAT luck with them. Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge.
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 22:32 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge. No prob. Yeah that 5000 will last for freakin ever in a crawler. You're not going to need the high discharge ratings of the fancier packs for that application either If anyone is within driving distance of central Iowa, we're putting on a trophy race at the new indoor track in Grimes Race is sponsored by this awesome hobby shop: http://www.bluegroovehobbies.com/
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 22:43 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I adore this little truck. The fucker tears through anything.
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 23:30 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I wish I hadn't found this thread, since I'm an unemployed bum, but I once put together a Tamiya Ford Escort Cosworth Repsol (rally car) that I got for christmas some years ago. The most magical part was seeing the little differentials, and putting oil in my own shock absorbers before burning myself on the speed controller. Unfortunately being an idiot I soon broke the thing by stripping some gears, losing some parts and using an electric screwdriver. I'd like to do it again (not the breaking part). Can someone explain where to go, or what would probably be the cheapest way to build myself a crawler? I don't wanna walk straight into a hobby shop as I'll probably get taken for a rube, not knowing what things [should] cost. e: Also I'm in the UK. Crankit fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 4, 2012 |
# ? Apr 4, 2012 23:52 |
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Son of a bitch, every hobby I get out of immediately gets a thousand times cheaper. I sold all of my RC stuff a while ago and now the Turnigy air radios are ridiculously good and hilariously inexpensive, and apparently it's the same with chargers and batteries.
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# ? Apr 4, 2012 23:55 |
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needknees posted:
I've had at least one DOA pack from HobbyKing, but they take returns just like anyone else. It was a little more tedious filling out customs forms, but they sent me a replacement free. I wager now that they have a US warehouse you could probably just return it there.
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# ? Apr 5, 2012 07:47 |
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge. If you're in the US, make sure you order from the US warehouse, makes things 100x easier and quicker.
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# ? Apr 5, 2012 13:45 |
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Crankit posted:
When you say crawler, what are you wanting exactly? I'm assuming you mean scale crawler like my truck. I'd recommend trying to score an Axial SCX10 kit. I'm not sure what the availability is over in the UK, but I'm sure you can have one shipped. When you are talking scale crawlers, it's the best way to go as the aftermarket is crazy. You could also look at a Tamiya CR01, as I know Tamiya is more of a global brand (maybe?). I'd really recommend the Axial though, and could even help you acquire one if you can't find a place that ships international. As for how mine was painted, I had a friend of mine who owns @ http://www.themonsterfactory.net/ do it. He knew I wanted a rusted out junk heap for a truck and he had always wanted to paint one.....so I was his lab rat. It turned out great, and now he has other guys wanting the same. I do know that he used a soldering iron to warp/rip the lexan. He also painted primer/paint on the outside of the body, w/ rust on the inside. The more the body gets beat up, the more rust creeps through. I smile every time I hit the rocks/trail.
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# ? Apr 5, 2012 19:05 |
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Axial is widely carried by UK shops, and even more widely available online. There's a very big and very active crawling scene in the UK, with meet-ups nearly every weekend, there's at least 2 or 3 active web forums just for UK RC crawlers. https://www.ukrcrc.com is one of the most popular ones.
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# ? Apr 5, 2012 21:48 |
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I just sold my 1/16 Slash VXL to another goon and picked up a Losi Mini Crawler since I don't have room for the speedy Slash but DO have tons of rocks. I've only put on battery through it so far but it's crazy fun. It's the perfect size for where I'm at. I do have a couple of questions though: it uses a Losi MSX12 servo with a servo saver. I'd really like to take the servo saver off as it makes it really hard to steer the crawler in certain situations. Since I assume this puts it in danger of breaking, how do I know what size replacement to look for if I don't get the stock losi part? Now I'd like to find a more scale looking body for it. Unfortunately, it seems like most people who do scale stuff go pretty nuts and do lots of things to the chassis. I'd just like something that sort of looks like a normal truck instead of the the weird tuber body.
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 01:43 |
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Servos come in standard sizes (micro,mini,standard and jumbo) but they differ from eachother in spline count. You could upgrade to a high torque metal gear servo. As for the saver, just replace it with a metal servo horn that fits the spline of the servo you have. I've never understood why a saver is necessary for low-impact stuff like crawling or touring cars when you use a metal gear servo.
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 05:41 |
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Many 1/10th offroad cars either come with a setup that does not use a servo saver (Losi 22, 22T) or there's extremely popular aftermarket upgrades out there that eliminate the servo saver (avid bellcrank for B4/T4). I've never had a decent servo poo poo out on me in 1/10 and I'm not exactly easy on stuff... and put a TON of time on them. A good quality metal gear servo can take some ridiculous punishment.
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 06:06 |
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I've had a hankering to get back into RC (planes and cars), and I love how much cheaper everything is now. I've built a couple electric buggies before brushless motors and LIPO batteries existed. Later on I built an on-road nitro HPI kit that I loved. One thing I don't like is it seems like most cars / kits are sold pre-built or RTR. Is there a good shop online (US) that has a good selection of kits to build? For me that's the best part. I've yet to check out any local hobby shops, but wanted to do a bit of research online first to get an idea of what's good. Also, where would be a good place for bodies? I'd love to build an on-road electric Delorean
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 13:51 |
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Build-it-yourself kits are hard to come by unless you want a race kit. HPI still do some 'SS' kits now and then. And specific bodies like the Delorean are going to be very hard to get replicas of, although sometimes you'll hear about small companies/individual people making short-run bodies (like pre-runner truck bodies for the HPI Baja).
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 15:45 |
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Treytor posted:I've had a hankering to get back into RC (planes and cars), and I love how much cheaper everything is now. I've built a couple electric buggies before brushless motors and LIPO batteries existed. Later on I built an on-road nitro HPI kit that I loved. What scale do you want? 1:10, 1:8? If you want an onroad electric I really like Xray's and Team Associated touring cars. Awesome quality and they're all kits that you build yourself. They aren't cheap though. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ric-Touring-Car Another fine choice is Team Associated: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...Touring-Car-Kit
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# ? Apr 8, 2012 17:17 |
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Yeah, I'm finding the a Delorean body doesn't really exist, but there is one guy who is making one himself to sell. He posted about it in a couple forums ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10139434/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm ) so that's kind of exciting. I messaged him, hopefully he didn't give up. I don't really have a preference on scale. I would think bigger would be more fun, but it seems like most bodies, especially the above linked Delorean guy, is making it 1:10. So I'm cool with going with the majority there. Thanks for the kit suggestions, I'll look into them. Is that website pretty reputable? Or should I find the kit I want then scour e-bay / local hobby shops for it?
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 01:57 |
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Treytor posted:Thanks for the kit suggestions, I'll look into them. Is that website pretty reputable? Or should I find the kit I want then scour e-bay / local hobby shops for it? Are you looking to race at all? If so, look into whatever types of racing and classes to see what's around you and what is popular. There's ZERO onroad scene around my area - while I'd like to get into touring car it doesn't make sense to build a kit I'd need to travel a min of 2.5hrs to race. On the flip side there's three good offroad tracks in my area and many many more within a couple hours driving distance. Amain is one of the best r/c websites out there. They're very reputable and have decent prices. Best thing about them is their completely ridiculous selection. They carry just about everything you can imagine for r/c, surface, air, and water. Shameless plug for my local hobbyshop incoming - The guys at http://www.bluegroovehobbies.com/ are great. They don't have the crazy selection of Amain but they do have better prices. Their focus is 1/10th offroad and they have most of the popular kits, parts, and tires you'd need to get started.
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 02:10 |
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Race? No. I'm just a casual builder that would like to run it every now and then. I'm mostly just interested in the build. Thanks again for the tips, I'll look around those two sites you recommended.
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 05:26 |
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If you just like to build stuff and won't race, you might want to look into things like the rc4wd.com truck kits or the Tamiya vintage re-release kits. Lots of good stuff out there
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 08:56 |
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I just pulled this out of the cupboard where it's been sitting unused for 4 or 5 years: Unfortunately I don't have enough batteries handy to get it running, so instead I've come here to share. Is there anything I should do before running it since it's been in storage for so long?
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 09:49 |
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krushgroove posted:If you just like to build stuff and won't race, you might want to look into things like the rc4wd.com truck kits or the Tamiya vintage re-release kits. Lots of good stuff out there Put together two tamiya kits so far, m05, and ta05 vdf. Their kits are well done and I had a great time putting them together so far. if you want a fun build car that's cheap in 1/10,have you looked into maybe a tamiya tt01? Or if you want something for bashing on and off road maybe a tamiya df03ra. Nice thing about them is price and once you complete it you can look into upgrades /hopups to keep improving it.
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 10:54 |
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Yeah it is a bit puzzling how the good kits are $500 - $600 while most of the RTR kits are around $300 or so. I realize the good kits are I'm sure far superior quality and what you'd start with to win races and stuff, but it seems like there's a niche of affordable kits that isn't being filled. Thanks for the tip on the Tamiya TT-01 kit. That looks like a good place to start. Interestingly enough it looks like they don't have those kits on amainhobbies website... There are quite a few of them available from Tamiya directly though.
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 20:42 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 03:03 |
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Try towerhobbies, I never shopped their myself but I hear from other goons it's a great place to shop online as well.
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# ? Apr 9, 2012 22:08 |