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Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

What type of servo should I be looking at for starting out racing onroad? My only experience with servos comes from buying servos for Savage/LST/MTs in general so they are all metal geared and super torquey, but to me it doesnt seem like torque is as critical as hi-speed. Im familiar with HiTec servos but apparently now savox and a few other brands are churning out good models much cheaper?

I have a TC5R, will be running VTA (HPI vintage tires) and 21.5 class.

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needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.
I don't run onroad, but I've been super impressed with Savox servos for offroad. I run the 1258 in most of my stuff, it's got great torque and is plenty fast without being twitchy. 167 oz in @ 6V, .08 transit time. I'm still running the very first one I ever got... it's got TONS of time on it and is still as good as new.

If you want something a little faster the 1257 gives up a bit of torque to drop down to .07sec transit time.

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
If I wanted to start building a 1/8 crawler, where should I start? I'd like to find something used cheap somewhere that is mostly already together ready for upgrades. What kind of thing like that has the most aftermarket options?

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
I would say Clodbuster, but the momentum in the market is definitely fully behind 1/10th scalers, so I don't know how much 1/8th stuff you'll be able to find.

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
Oh alright. So what in the 1/10th is equivalent ?

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Scour ebay or RC forum for a used Axial SCX10 would be my first suggestion. Loads of options to fit those, that's the jumping-off point for building up a custom rail chassis like what you can get from RC4WD, etc.

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.
Built a 8.2e yesterday. I blame kuffs.

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction
suck it, other people's disposable income

Nathan Explosion
Aug 14, 2006
A whole new rainbow of pain!

Olde Weird Tip posted:

Make the investment in Lipos. Seriously, the VXL really wakes up with that much punch behind it, and charging is a much more precise process with less guessing

I would love to step up to lipo but I cant scrabble together the cash for a charger and a cell right now. I'm loving the extra run time I'm seeing with the 5100. When that battery starts getting weak I'll probably pull the trigger on the lipo. I'm a bit frightened to see how fast I can break poo poo with the extra speed.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Anyone interested in buying my 1/16 Slash VXL? My old apartment had an alley out back that would have been the perfect bashing area, but I wound up moving before I really had a chance to use it. The thing's fun as hell, waaaay faster than I expected, but I don't have a great place to run it at my new apartment. A crawler would be much better here so I'm hoping to sell it and move that direction.

I've only put 4 batteries or so through and everything seems to be in good shape, except the body which is scratched up a bit. It also has as set of stiffer springs and thicker shock fluid which helped immensely with traction rolling.


edit: I also have a sway bar kit for the full sized slash if anyone's interested. Apparently I don't read descriptions very carefully when shopping online.

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.

Nathan Explosion posted:

I would love to step up to lipo but I cant scrabble together the cash for a charger and a cell right now. I'm loving the extra run time I'm seeing with the 5100. When that battery starts getting weak I'll probably pull the trigger on the lipo. I'm a bit frightened to see how fast I can break poo poo with the extra speed.

As much as I'm behind supporting your local hobby shop, batteries are one thing that make zero sense to buy locally. For cheap lipos it's basically impossible to beat hobbyking and hobbypartz.

Battery
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14976__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S1P_20C_hardcase_pack_USA_Warehouse_.html

Charger
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18066__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories_USA_Warehouse_.html

Irish Legend
Aug 12, 2011
I am getting my drift tto1 back up and running, and am waiting on a couple batteries I ordered off of amazon. Even if they are crap, whatever, drifting takes very little draw and i got 2 5000mah batteries with deans plugs for 50 bucks. I also ordered a new body and I am going to try and use my airbrush to paint it so we will see how that first attempt goes. It wont be done until next week sometime because I am going out of state, but I am finally getting the RC itch for probably the 8th time in my life. If only I can actually convince some of my friends to take it up with me I will be good.

Nathan Explosion
Aug 14, 2006
A whole new rainbow of pain!

needknees posted:

As much as I'm behind supporting your local hobby shop, batteries are one thing that make zero sense to buy locally. For cheap lipos it's basically impossible to beat hobbyking and hobbypartz

Holy god. I'll be getting those in the very near future. Thank you for the heads up! The 5100 nimh I bought at the shop cost more than both of those combined. I'll report back once I get them. Maybe my stampede will keep up with my buddy's Jato with a hot, hot lipo injection.

My local shop is awesome but some of the prices are exorbitant, especially for alloy parts.

Another question, is there a good way to balance tires on a truck like my stampede. I bought a set of pro line trenchers and got 3 of them glued perfect. The 4th is a bit wobbly but it appears to be glued straight. Is there a way to get it spinning smooth without ripping it off of the wheel?

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Nathan Explosion posted:

Holy god. I'll be getting those in the very near future. Thank you for the heads up! The 5100 nimh I bought at the shop cost more than both of those combined. I'll report back once I get them. Maybe my stampede will keep up with my buddy's Jato with a hot, hot lipo injection.

My local shop is awesome but some of the prices are exorbitant, especially for alloy parts.

Another question, is there a good way to balance tires on a truck like my stampede. I bought a set of pro line trenchers and got 3 of them glued perfect. The 4th is a bit wobbly but it appears to be glued straight. Is there a way to get it spinning smooth without ripping it off of the wheel?

with the larger tires on MTs I would put the liner in the tire and then massage it for about 5 minutes. Squeeze, fold, bend, deform like it was play-doh in my hands and then mount them to the wheels.



I joined my local club last night and am edging closer and closer to finally hitting the track :) 1 of my A-main orders is hopefully going to be here before the long weekend, with the rest of it getting here probably on the other side. at least I will have a body to paint and tools to play with.

UPDATE: i got all my stuff, and all I can say is Gluing onroad tires, specifically HPI vintage tires and wheels, is a BITCH. anyone got advice for getting dried CA off the tread?

Laserface fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Apr 4, 2012

HoWSeR
Sep 9, 2004
M05 Pro done, what a fun little build, so fun while checking the shipping of my motor esc combo on ebay I decided to get its value in hop ups. Once they get here I get to strip it down and rebuild it all over again! :v:




last weekend after we finished bashing around the off road track, we went to the parking lot so some of the guys can try their new hpi cup racers. Man they are fun to drive, so much fun i found and won one on ebay. Comes with an Exotek chassis but also all the original parts.




I really need to stop looking at ebay. :(

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose


Holy poo poo. So those are actually legit? If so, I'll be purchasing both. I'm using an old Lipo that i bought several years ago, but didn't want to buy a new one because my last one was expesnive

As for the guy asking about crawlers....just go buy an Axial SCX10. They are the poo poo. Here are some more shots of my lil Comanche SCX10. The 1:1 rig is my bosses. Not pictured was me tearing the parking lot up in the big one :)







I adore this little truck. The fucker tears through anything.

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Holy poo poo. So those are actually legit? If so, I'll be purchasing both. I'm using an old Lipo that i bought several years ago, but didn't want to buy a new one because my last one was expesnive

They're completely legit. There's only a few manufacturers of lipos in the world, nearly all of which are in China. Most of the "big name" batteries are cheap Chinese cells in a hard case with the 'manufacturer's' sticker slapped on it and a price tag 3x or more what you can get them for from hobbyking/hobbypartz. I've been running turnigy and gens ace lipos in both cars and helis (small and 500 class) and have had GREAT luck with them.

The turnigy nano-tech packs are a little higher quality than the one I linked. Higher capacity with a far better discharge rating, and you can get them in 4mm bullet plug versions for more options on connecting it to your esc. The hobbypartz Gens Ace 5000 (either 40c or 50c) are very nice packs as well, but they're perpetually out of stock.

If you're looking for something to just tool around with the linked turnigy 5000 20c pack would be fine.

Edit - One thing you do get by going with a big name battery over the hobbyking/partz stuff is warranty. I did have two gens ace 6s packs that were DOA that I got replaced without hassle, for what it's worth. Never had a turnigy pack crap out in short order. The reality is even if you get a dud pack they're so goddamn much cheaper than the alternative you come out ahead by rolling the dice on cheap packs.

needknees fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Apr 4, 2012

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

needknees posted:

They're completely legit. There's only a few manufacturers of lipos in the world, nearly all of which are in China. Most of the "big name" batteries are cheap Chinese cells in a hard case with the 'manufacturer's' sticker slapped on it and a price tag 3x or more what you can get them for from hobbyking/hobbypartz. I've been running turnigy and gens ace lipos in both cars and helis (small and 500 class) and have had GREAT luck with them.

The turnigy nano-tech packs are a little higher quality than the one I linked. Higher capacity with a far better discharge rating, and you can get them in 4mm bullet plug versions for more options on connecting it to your esc. The hobbypartz Gens Ace 5000 (either 40c or 50c) are very nice packs as well, but they're perpetually out of stock.

If you're looking for something to just tool around with the linked turnigy 5000 20c pack would be fine.

Edit - One thing you do get by going with a big name battery over the hobbyking/partz stuff is warranty. I did have two gens ace 6s packs that were DOA that I got replaced without hassle, for what it's worth. Never had a turnigy pack crap out in short order. The reality is even if you get a dud pack they're so goddamn much cheaper than the alternative you come out ahead by rolling the dice on cheap packs.

Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge.

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge.

No prob. Yeah that 5000 will last for freakin ever in a crawler. You're not going to need the high discharge ratings of the fancier packs for that application either :)

If anyone is within driving distance of central Iowa, we're putting on a trophy race at the new indoor track in Grimes :)



Race is sponsored by this awesome hobby shop: :woop: http://www.bluegroovehobbies.com/ :woop:

You Am I
May 20, 2001

Me @ your poasting

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

I adore this little truck. The fucker tears through anything.
I'm thinking of doing some rust on a VW Golf Mk 1 shell I am looking to get for my M03 chassis. Which paints/methods did you use to get the rust look, or is there a website you used for reference?

Crankit
Feb 7, 2011

HE WATCHES

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:





:allears::swoon:
I wish I hadn't found this thread, since I'm an unemployed bum, but I once put together a Tamiya Ford Escort Cosworth Repsol (rally car) that I got for christmas some years ago.
The most magical part was seeing the little differentials, and putting oil in my own shock absorbers before burning myself on the speed controller. Unfortunately being an idiot I soon broke the thing by stripping some gears, losing some parts and using an electric screwdriver. I'd like to do it again (not the breaking part).

Can someone explain where to go, or what would probably be the cheapest way to build myself a crawler? I don't wanna walk straight into a hobby shop as I'll probably get taken for a rube, not knowing what things [should] cost.

e: Also I'm in the UK.

Crankit fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Apr 4, 2012

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Son of a bitch, every hobby I get out of immediately gets a thousand times cheaper.

I sold all of my RC stuff a while ago and now the Turnigy air radios are ridiculously good and hilariously inexpensive, and apparently it's the same with chargers and batteries.



:argh:

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction

needknees posted:


Edit - One thing you do get by going with a big name battery over the hobbyking/partz stuff is warranty. I did have two gens ace 6s packs that were DOA that I got replaced without hassle, for what it's worth. Never had a turnigy pack crap out in short order. The reality is even if you get a dud pack they're so goddamn much cheaper than the alternative you come out ahead by rolling the dice on cheap packs.

I've had at least one DOA pack from HobbyKing, but they take returns just like anyone else. It was a little more tedious filling out customs forms, but they sent me a replacement free. I wager now that they have a US warehouse you could probably just return it there.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Awesome, thank you for the info. Yeah, I'll just go with a 5000 20c pack. The 55t in my axial will last over 2 hrs on a charge.

If you're in the US, make sure you order from the US warehouse, makes things 100x easier and quicker.

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

Crankit posted:


Can someone explain where to go, or what would probably be the cheapest way to build myself a crawler? I don't wanna walk straight into a hobby shop as I'll probably get taken for a rube, not knowing what things [should] cost.

e: Also I'm in the UK.

When you say crawler, what are you wanting exactly? I'm assuming you mean scale crawler like my truck. I'd recommend trying to score an Axial SCX10 kit. I'm not sure what the availability is over in the UK, but I'm sure you can have one shipped. When you are talking scale crawlers, it's the best way to go as the aftermarket is crazy. You could also look at a Tamiya CR01, as I know Tamiya is more of a global brand (maybe?). I'd really recommend the Axial though, and could even help you acquire one if you can't find a place that ships international.

As for how mine was painted, I had a friend of mine who owns @ http://www.themonsterfactory.net/ do it. He knew I wanted a rusted out junk heap for a truck and he had always wanted to paint one.....so I was his lab rat. It turned out great, and now he has other guys wanting the same. I do know that he used a soldering iron to warp/rip the lexan. He also painted primer/paint on the outside of the body, w/ rust on the inside. The more the body gets beat up, the more rust creeps through. I smile every time I hit the rocks/trail.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Axial is widely carried by UK shops, and even more widely available online. There's a very big and very active crawling scene in the UK, with meet-ups nearly every weekend, there's at least 2 or 3 active web forums just for UK RC crawlers. https://www.ukrcrc.com is one of the most popular ones.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I just sold my 1/16 Slash VXL to another goon and picked up a Losi Mini Crawler since I don't have room for the speedy Slash but DO have tons of rocks. I've only put on battery through it so far but it's crazy fun. It's the perfect size for where I'm at.

I do have a couple of questions though: it uses a Losi MSX12 servo with a servo saver. I'd really like to take the servo saver off as it makes it really hard to steer the crawler in certain situations. Since I assume this puts it in danger of breaking, how do I know what size replacement to look for if I don't get the stock losi part?

Now I'd like to find a more scale looking body for it. Unfortunately, it seems like most people who do scale stuff go pretty nuts and do lots of things to the chassis. I'd just like something that sort of looks like a normal truck instead of the the weird tuber body.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

Servos come in standard sizes (micro,mini,standard and jumbo) but they differ from eachother in spline count. You could upgrade to a high torque metal gear servo. As for the saver, just replace it with a metal servo horn that fits the spline of the servo you have.

I've never understood why a saver is necessary for low-impact stuff like crawling or touring cars when you use a metal gear servo.

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.
Many 1/10th offroad cars either come with a setup that does not use a servo saver (Losi 22, 22T) or there's extremely popular aftermarket upgrades out there that eliminate the servo saver (avid bellcrank for B4/T4). I've never had a decent servo poo poo out on me in 1/10 and I'm not exactly easy on stuff... and put a TON of time on them. A good quality metal gear servo can take some ridiculous punishment.

Treytor
Feb 8, 2003

Enjoy, uh... refreshing time!
I've had a hankering to get back into RC (planes and cars), and I love how much cheaper everything is now. I've built a couple electric buggies before brushless motors and LIPO batteries existed. Later on I built an on-road nitro HPI kit that I loved.

One thing I don't like is it seems like most cars / kits are sold pre-built or RTR. Is there a good shop online (US) that has a good selection of kits to build? For me that's the best part.

I've yet to check out any local hobby shops, but wanted to do a bit of research online first to get an idea of what's good.

Also, where would be a good place for bodies? I'd love to build an on-road electric Delorean :shobon:

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Build-it-yourself kits are hard to come by unless you want a race kit. HPI still do some 'SS' kits now and then. And specific bodies like the Delorean are going to be very hard to get replicas of, although sometimes you'll hear about small companies/individual people making short-run bodies (like pre-runner truck bodies for the HPI Baja).

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008

Treytor posted:

I've had a hankering to get back into RC (planes and cars), and I love how much cheaper everything is now. I've built a couple electric buggies before brushless motors and LIPO batteries existed. Later on I built an on-road nitro HPI kit that I loved.

One thing I don't like is it seems like most cars / kits are sold pre-built or RTR. Is there a good shop online (US) that has a good selection of kits to build? For me that's the best part.

I've yet to check out any local hobby shops, but wanted to do a bit of research online first to get an idea of what's good.

Also, where would be a good place for bodies? I'd love to build an on-road electric Delorean :shobon:

What scale do you want? 1:10, 1:8? If you want an onroad electric I really like Xray's and Team Associated touring cars. Awesome quality and they're all kits that you build yourself. They aren't cheap though.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ric-Touring-Car

Another fine choice is Team Associated: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...Touring-Car-Kit

Treytor
Feb 8, 2003

Enjoy, uh... refreshing time!
Yeah, I'm finding the a Delorean body doesn't really exist, but there is one guy who is making one himself to sell. He posted about it in a couple forums ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10139434/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm ) so that's kind of exciting. I messaged him, hopefully he didn't give up.

I don't really have a preference on scale. I would think bigger would be more fun, but it seems like most bodies, especially the above linked Delorean guy, is making it 1:10. So I'm cool with going with the majority there.

Thanks for the kit suggestions, I'll look into them. Is that website pretty reputable? Or should I find the kit I want then scour e-bay / local hobby shops for it?

needknees
Apr 4, 2006

Oh. My.

Treytor posted:

Thanks for the kit suggestions, I'll look into them. Is that website pretty reputable? Or should I find the kit I want then scour e-bay / local hobby shops for it?

Are you looking to race at all? If so, look into whatever types of racing and classes to see what's around you and what is popular. There's ZERO onroad scene around my area - while I'd like to get into touring car it doesn't make sense to build a kit I'd need to travel a min of 2.5hrs to race. On the flip side there's three good offroad tracks in my area and many many more within a couple hours driving distance.

Amain is one of the best r/c websites out there. They're very reputable and have decent prices. Best thing about them is their completely ridiculous selection. They carry just about everything you can imagine for r/c, surface, air, and water.

Shameless plug for my local hobbyshop incoming - The guys at http://www.bluegroovehobbies.com/ are great. They don't have the crazy selection of Amain but they do have better prices. Their focus is 1/10th offroad and they have most of the popular kits, parts, and tires you'd need to get started.

Treytor
Feb 8, 2003

Enjoy, uh... refreshing time!
Race? No. I'm just a casual builder that would like to run it every now and then. I'm mostly just interested in the build. Thanks again for the tips, I'll look around those two sites you recommended.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
If you just like to build stuff and won't race, you might want to look into things like the rc4wd.com truck kits or the Tamiya vintage re-release kits. Lots of good stuff out there :)

the onion wizard
Apr 14, 2004

I just pulled this out of the cupboard where it's been sitting unused for 4 or 5 years:



Unfortunately I don't have enough batteries handy to get it running, so instead I've come here to share.

Is there anything I should do before running it since it's been in storage for so long?

HoWSeR
Sep 9, 2004

krushgroove posted:

If you just like to build stuff and won't race, you might want to look into things like the rc4wd.com truck kits or the Tamiya vintage re-release kits. Lots of good stuff out there :)

Put together two tamiya kits so far, m05, and ta05 vdf. Their kits are well done and I had a great time putting them together so far.

if you want a fun build car that's cheap in 1/10,have you looked into maybe a tamiya tt01? Or if you want something for bashing on and off road maybe a tamiya df03ra. Nice thing about them is price and once you complete it you can look into upgrades /hopups to keep improving it.

Treytor
Feb 8, 2003

Enjoy, uh... refreshing time!
Yeah it is a bit puzzling how the good kits are $500 - $600 while most of the RTR kits are around $300 or so. I realize the good kits are I'm sure far superior quality and what you'd start with to win races and stuff, but it seems like there's a niche of affordable kits that isn't being filled.

Thanks for the tip on the Tamiya TT-01 kit. That looks like a good place to start. Interestingly enough it looks like they don't have those kits on amainhobbies website...

There are quite a few of them available from Tamiya directly though.

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HoWSeR
Sep 9, 2004
Try towerhobbies, I never shopped their myself but I hear from other goons it's a great place to shop online as well.

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