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jackpot posted:Is there a gardening/landscaping thread? We do have a gardening thread. Styrofoam peanuts would work fine, with a layer of landscape fabric on top of them before you put in dirt. Plastic bottles tend to crush when you put lots of weight on their sides.
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Apr 3, 2012 22:31
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kid sinister posted:We do have a gardening thread. I'm really trying not to be lazy about this, but here's a question about making a flagstone patio (around 100sqft): if I'm planning to space the stones out a bit (about 3") and grow grass or moss (hopefully moss, if it'll take) between them, should I still dig out the ground underneath and lay down a layer of sand as a foundation? Because it seems to be that's great if I'm filling the spaces with sand or stone (or concreting the whole thing), but if I'm growing stuff in the cracks I feel like that would make it...impossible. I don't relish the idea of carving out a flat space out of the dirt for each (irregularly shaped) piece of stone, either, because Jesus, the thought of how long that would take makes me a little ill. Then again the idea of just laying the stones on the ground and letting nature do its thing doesn't sound too smart, either (the stones will sink eventually, right? Over the next few decades?). I'm reading up on all of this, but are there any commonsense tips (or good sites) for making a flagstone patio or path (I'm planning to do both, eventually) that I might not have heard yet?
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Apr 4, 2012 18:14
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I laid a 25X15 patio with 12X12 pavers five years ago. Dug down seven inches below grade, laid four inches of stone, pounded it with a powered tamper, then 1.5-2" of levelled sand, then the pavers, about 3/8" apart. Swept in more sand to lock the pavers. All kinds of crap grows in there, I pull it out all year long. If you want moss, it should be out of direct sunlight, and a bit damp. I suppose that once to lay your stone, you can sweep in topsoil. You'll have to do it several times over a period of weeks before it settles to grade. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Apr 4, 2012 |
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Apr 4, 2012 18:18
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Definitely at the minimum lay your stone on a 1" base of stone dust(pulverized stone, blue dust). I have not seen a great benefit with cracked flagstone patios to laying a base of 57 gravel since the stone are typically 3"+ thick. If you are using 1" square flagstone then you want to use a base of compacted 57 gravel covered with a layer of compacted stonedust or sand. You would sweep topsoil into the joints between the stones and water lightly to help it settle. You want your final soil level about 3/8" below the surface of the stone. To grow your moss you want to blend(like in a blender) live moss with unflavored yogurt or buttermilk and then spread the mix on top of the topsoil joints. Keep in mind that with a lot of foot traffic the moss will get kicked out of the joints and will then quickly regrow to cover. This can make your patio somewhat messy. The other poster is correct that moss will not live in full sun, but you could consider planting "steppable" plants which should be at any decent garden center. dinozaur fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Apr 4, 2012 |
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Apr 4, 2012 23:15
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Still doing a lot of DIY in my place, and am looking to turn a 3-season room into an actual room. Problem is, it'll seriously mess with the roofline of the house. Any advice on finding a good, reasonable architect? I live in NJ, by where the Sopranos took place; as a result, my house is right in the midst of both Newark and McMansions. Unsurprisingly, neither are really my price range.
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Apr 5, 2012 03:04
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Is using granite for a garage workbench top a terrible idea?
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Apr 5, 2012 04:17
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So I do a lot of stained glass and am about to finish my take on an art deco radio under which I would like to make a lightbox/real radio and was wondering if anyone had recommendations on what kind of radio to shoehorn into the lightbox. I've seen all the crystal radios which seem like grade school projects but want something I could use daily.
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Apr 5, 2012 04:35
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FCKGW posted:Is using granite for a garage workbench top a terrible idea? Yes. You'll spend a lot of time wrecking up your tools on that kind of surface. Stick with wood.
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Apr 5, 2012 12:32
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FCKGW posted:Is using granite for a garage workbench top a terrible idea? A fine idea, if you're going to cook on them, a terrible idea if you're going to put metal things on there & hit them with hammers. I assume you are ripping out old counters, not just retardedly rich & outfitting your dream garage? If so you'll be better off selling the old tops.
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Apr 5, 2012 12:33
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Cakefool posted:A fine idea, if you're going to cook on them, a terrible idea if you're going to put metal things on there & hit them with hammers. Yeah, old reno where we used a 1 foot section from a 9 foot slab to complete a coutertop. I'll throw it up on craigslist, thanks.
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Apr 5, 2012 16:31
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dinozaur posted:
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Apr 5, 2012 20:20
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Is there a website where I can buy cross dowels in 10mm diameter, 20mm length, with a 6mm opening in quantities more reasonable than 100? I recently bought an expensive artist easel on the cheap as-is, and was told it was only missing a bolt and a nut. In actuality it's missing almost all the assembly hardware and while I can find 6mmx70mm bolts easily enough, those drat cross dowels escape me. I tried my local hardware stores, including a Fastenal, and googling either gets me sites that have the wrong sizes, only sell them in Standard, or only sell in packages of 100/1000. I can't contact the manufacturer because the website won't accept my registration, which is necessary to get product support. If I just can't get the parts I need, I'm willing to just switch all my fasteners to standard, but I wouldn't know which sizes would work best or, again, where to get them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Apr 6, 2012 01:43
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Does anybody have any opinion or knowledge of weep hole covers? The cable guy (haha) was trying to sell me on these yesterday. I know better than to shove a brillo pad or mortar them up, but would these be acceptable protection from pests in my walls? http://tamlyn.com/RetrofitWeepHoleCover.html
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Apr 6, 2012 10:33
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FCKGW posted:Is using granite for a garage workbench top a terrible idea? I wouldn't want the whole bench top to be granite, but a section of granite can be nice to have as a flat surface for attaching sandpaper to for flattening or sharpening things.
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Apr 6, 2012 13:39
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What's the advantage of granite over steel for that?
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Apr 6, 2012 14:05
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Splizwarf posted:What's the advantage of granite over steel for that? Won't rust. Nonmagnetic won't attract shavings. Easier to clean, harder to scratch (but easier to chip). Easier to use spray-glue on. Doesn't easily radioactivate with most sources. Significantly lighter.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:42
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This in our upper dishwasher basket: Is causing this on the silverware down below:  What are my options for sealing that would stand up to the environment inside the dishwasher? We're in a rental so I don't want to order a new OEM basket unless that's really the easiest thing to do.
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Apr 7, 2012 04:37
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You could try removing the basket, using an X-Acto knife or razor to trim back the covering, sand off he rust, and try applying a few coats of this: http://www.plastidip.com/ Normally, this is used to coat tool handles by dipping the handle directly in it...you could try dripping some on & around the cleaned & exposed wire mesh & letting it cure. At least it should buy you some time. Other than that, try moving the lower utensil basket somewhere else in the lower tray/basket. (edit) Oh hey look, they make a specific product for your problem! http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/ReRACK
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Apr 7, 2012 04:53
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We have an electric Frigidaire oven that has burned the poo poo out of the last two things we put in there, creating a great smokey mess. The last time it did this I came to the conclusion that the heating element was never turning off. I used a mutlimeter to test the resistance of the thermostat, and got a reading of 1168 @ ~67° F. The data sheet claims it should read 1091 +- 5.3 @ 75° and 1000 @ 32°, so my reading seems a bit high to me, but I really don't know what I am doing and don't understand electricity. Is that enough out of whack that it is worth replacing, or should I just call someone who knows what they are doing?
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Apr 7, 2012 19:48
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Associate Christ
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Kaluza-Klein posted:We have an electric Frigidaire oven that has burned the poo poo out of the last two things we put in there, creating a great smokey mess. The last time it did this I came to the conclusion that the heating element was never turning off. Could also be a sticking relay. grover fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 19:56
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I have just been given an old jukebox! It doesn't work but it looks firkin cool, and its weighs exactly 12.5 zillion lbs. Has anybody had any experience repairing one of these bad boys? I have some wiring diagrams... Google doesn't really seem to be bringing up any useful howtos. Just some places to buy parts. I wonder if I should be trying to repair the old electronics in it, or if you can replace it with new stuff. Thoughts anyone?
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Apr 7, 2012 20:49
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Thumposaurus posted:I wouldn't want the whole bench top to be granite, but a section of granite can be nice to have as a flat surface for attaching sandpaper to for flattening or sharpening things. Yeah, I think I'm going to have a 2 foot section of granite for some small hobby things I do in the garage and use some thick plywood or butcher block for the rest.
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Apr 7, 2012 23:44
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grover posted:You may be overthinking this. Old ovens will often just be waaaay out of calibration and give you temps entirely unrelated to what temp is shown on the dial. Try sticking an oven thermometer in there, set your oven at the lowest temp, and see what happens. Take notes. If it's just running hot, you can recalibrate the dial yourself with a sharpie. The oven is actually less than five years old. It isn't a fancy one or anything, though. Unfortunately, the control for the oven is digital. I bought a thermometer to test it out. It happily heats up to 350°, gives its signal beep, and then keeps on going; the element never turns off. I also think it makes a funny smell now, but the wife disagrees. It makes familiar clicking sounds when warming up, which are the relays, right? But once it reaches temp and beeps no more clicks are heard. Oh well.
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Apr 8, 2012 00:17
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Kaluza-Klein posted:The oven is actually less than five years old. It isn't a fancy one or anything, though. Unfortunately, the control for the oven is digital. If you've ever run the self-clean on it, it may have baked the control board. That happened on my parents' stove. It's probably like a $200 part.
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Apr 8, 2012 05:05
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Sounds more like the thermostat is shot - they sometimes have 2 so google the service manual first. Unlikely the control board is shot with only 1 symptom. Also the funny smell is probably when you get over hot. Is it just a single oven or is there a hob or grill attached? Are they behaving correctly?
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Apr 8, 2012 10:00
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After talking to several people and reading several blogs, I have gotten 10 different versions of how to paint kitchen cabinets. Well I did a test run by cleaning, putting on one coat of prime (latex bonding primer), and painting them almost black (interior satin finish called cooled lava). After letting my test set overnight I get up thinking it looks good, but when I rub my finger across the paint it seems to smear away. It is almost like you can see the primer color start to come through. My question is what step I'm I missing, or what I'm I doing wrong? Also my cabinets are Oak.
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Apr 9, 2012 14:25
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Cakefool posted:Sounds more like the thermostat is shot - they sometimes have 2 so google the service manual first. Unlikely the control board is shot with only 1 symptom. Also the funny smell is probably when you get over hot. Is it just a single oven or is there a hob or grill attached? Are they behaving correctly? The only thing approaching a manual I have is the circuit diagram of the oven in a plastic slip case on the back of the unit. It has a model number for the circuit, but no where can I find a model number on the actual oven, which is pretty frustrating! As far as I can tell from the circuit diagram, there is only one thermostat mentioned. It is a very basic, but modern oven with four glass top eyes (ugh) which are all working perfectly. It doesn't even have a self-clean mode, but I bet it got really fuckin' hot the first time it ran wild!
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Apr 9, 2012 14:37
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What is the best way to repair a chip/hole the size of a quarter and less than a half inch deep in an interior apartment cider block wall? I need to fill the hole, and then paint over it
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Apr 9, 2012 15:23
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Rodney Chops posted:I have just been given an old jukebox! It doesn't work but it looks firkin cool, and its weighs exactly 12.5 zillion lbs. Has anybody had any experience repairing one of these bad boys? I have some wiring diagrams... Google doesn't really seem to be bringing up any useful howtos. Just some places to buy parts. There are all sorts of forums online dedicated to restoring old electronics like that, especially jukeboxes. Google the make and model along with "service manual" and you will probably find the schematics for it, along with useful things like part numbers. You'll probably want to buy a multimeter, they're very useful for testing electronics. Tongsy posted:What is the best way to repair a chip/hole the size of a quarter and less than a half inch deep in an interior apartment cider block wall? I need to fill the hole, and then paint over it If you're just going to paint over it, spackle should work fine. Just apply, wait for it to dry, sand flat, then paint. Kaluza-Klein posted:The only thing approaching a manual I have is the circuit diagram of the oven in a plastic slip case on the back of the unit. It has a model number for the circuit, but no where can I find a model number on the actual oven, which is pretty frustrating! They really like to hide those labels. For an electric oven, try checking the back, sides, on the back sides of the oven or warmer doors, or underneath the cooktop. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 15:42
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kid sinister posted:If you're just going to paint over it, spackle should work fine. Just apply, wait for it to dry, sand flat, then paint. Thanks!
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Apr 9, 2012 16:25
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nate fisher posted:After talking to several people and reading several blogs, I have gotten 10 different versions of how to paint kitchen cabinets. Well I did a test run by cleaning, putting on one coat of prime (latex bonding primer), and painting them almost black (interior satin finish called cooled lava). After letting my test set overnight I get up thinking it looks good, but when I rub my finger across the paint it seems to smear away. It is almost like you can see the primer color start to come through. Sand them first, then more coats of paint than 1.
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Apr 9, 2012 17:25
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Also, let the primer dry for at least 24 hours, and the same for the paint.
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Apr 9, 2012 17:34
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nate fisher posted:After talking to several people and reading several blogs, I have gotten 10 different versions of how to paint kitchen cabinets. Other than that, like the others said make sure you leave plenty of time for your first coats (of primer and paint) to dry, it sounds like that's your problem. Painting kitchen cabinets is a real pain in the rear end. The painting is the easy part, it's all the waiting (while your wet cabinets, if you have a lot of them, are taking up every flat surface in your house) that sucks.
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Apr 9, 2012 17:55
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kid sinister posted:They really like to hide those labels. For an electric oven, try checking the back, sides, on the back sides of the oven or warmer doors, or underneath the cooktop. Also check on the body along the bottom of the oven door. Look carefully as you open and close the door for the boilerplate; sometimes they're positioned in such a way that you can't see it when hte door is fully open.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:00
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Sometimes you have to get down on your hands & knees to find the damned registration plate. If the unit has a storage drawer, open that as well. I'm surprised that the schematic does not have a model number on it. Also: sounds like your thermostat has failed. The clicking sounds are probably the sheetmatel panels inside the oven expanding as they heat.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:03
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Still a work in progress, but here's the walking path I've been going on about for the last few pages. This part was easy, because it's going on top of a concrete walkway and everything's dead-level; I just filled in the gaps with topsoil, and as it settles I'll add more. A few of the stones move just a little bit when you hit them at the wrong angle, but I'm hoping as the dirt settles they'll become locked in place; if not I'll replace them, I've got a shitload of stones left. Re: the chainlink fence on the left - it runs the entire perimeter of our backyard, and thanks to our neighbor's privacy fence that one side of it is completely superfluous. Is chainlink fence the sort of thing that people sell, or is it trash? Hell, I'd give it away if someone else would come out and pull all the posts from the ground, I just don't know if that's a thing anyone wants second-hand or not. Some of the fence would have to be cut, as it's grown into a few trees.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:14
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Probably could sell it for scrap. It's unlikely you'll get the chain-link out in one roll, and if the posts are set in concrete, they're worthless, unless you want to make like an old-timey chain gang member and break the concrete off with a large hammer. Incidentally, your neighbor's fence may be installed illegally - the "good" side is supposed to be facing out, with the posts only visible to the owner of the fence. Check with your township (or leave it be, if you get along with your neighbor). I like your layout & you should have little trouble getting moss to grow there.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:19
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jackpot posted:Re: the chainlink fence on the left - it runs the entire perimeter of our backyard, and thanks to our neighbor's privacy fence that one side of it is completely superfluous. Is chainlink fence the sort of thing that people sell, or is it trash? Hell, I'd give it away if someone else would come out and pull all the posts from the ground, I just don't know if that's a thing anyone wants second-hand or not. Some of the fence would have to be cut, as it's grown into a few trees. You definitely could sell the fencing for scrap, and if it's in decent shape then people might be willing to buy it off you for more than what the scrapyard would give you. I'd be a little wary of offering the posts and stuff to people if they're willing to dig them out. Where I live the people who are interested in selling scrap metal are not the sort of people you want around your house. I seem to recall reading something in This Old House a while back about how to get those out of the ground more easily, but I think that might have been more for wooden posts. I think those things are going to be a tremendous pain in the rear end to get out, especially with that other fence so close by. There's probably a solid 50+ pounds of concrete around each of them too, assuming the person did it right.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:28
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jackpot posted:chain-link fence Put an ad in freecycle, you might get someone willing to remove it for you.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:29
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I want to build a small shed/container for shovels and lawn stuff. I've never made anything like this before but I want to learn how to nail stuff together, and I don't care if it looks like crap when I'm done as long as it stands solidly upright. Is there somewhere to find plans for these kinds of things? I have no idea where supports should go, what kind of braces to get, how much wood to buy, etc.
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Apr 9, 2012 18:46
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man