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JEEVES420 posted:Thirding chisel sharpness. Chisels need to be sharper than a razor. You can not understand how pissed I was at a roommate who used one of my $50 chisels to scrape oil of a car part. hosed it all up My boss uses his blue marples to open cans of lacquer  No, I don't work in a woodworking studio, but we do a lot of woodworking by proxy of our products, and I am the only one I think who knows anything which is really sad, because I am green as it is.
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Apr 6, 2012 15:43
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mds2 posted:That puzzle is really cool. How long did it take to glue it all together? Didn't take too long, I used standard LePage white glue, which only requires about 25 minutes to set. To save time, I glued about 10 straight sections at the same time and clamped them together then added the fifth block afterwards.
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Apr 6, 2012 16:27
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Yeah, I had a feeling it would have been to do with the sharpness. I've ordered a Stanley honing kit from amazon (which uses an oilstone, but comes with the honing guide) but in the future I'll definitely try out the Scary Sharp method.SkunkDuster posted:The linseed oil makes it look very nice. I'm glad (and very surprised) you didn't follow the common path of "stain and poly" because I think that (pigment) stain looks like poo poo on any wood, but looks extremely bad on pine and cherry. I don't know how "Stain and Poly" became the defacto standard for wood finishing, but I don't like it one bit. There are much better ways to finish a project and you are right on the mark with your linseed oil finish. Yeah, I don't really like the finish you get with the stain and poly method. Much prefer a simple oil finish. wormil posted:I'm glad you didn't start with a big project, many do and then become frustrated at the result. Woodworking is a learned physical skill that requires practice, just having the knowledge in your head isn't enough. My advice, and this may not apply to you, is to take your time and make sure each step is set up the right way, make any jigs you need, focus on quality. I've had too many nonwoodworking jobs that required me to hustle and it is difficult for me to take my time with anything and my woodworking suffered because of it. I can understand that wish to do something big to start with, as it has plagued some of my other hobbies (particularly programming.) I'm determined to do it right this time, though and I agree that taking it slowly is the way to go.
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Apr 6, 2012 23:50
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I'd been meaning to properly sharpen my chisels as well. Picked up some sand paper (about $5 worth, various grits up to 2k) and a couple square feet of 1/4" plate glass ($5, it was scrap at a local glass & mirror shop). Looking forward to splitting hairs lengthwise or whatever the test is. 
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Apr 7, 2012 00:51
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Bad Munki posted:I'd been meaning to properly sharpen my chisels as well. Picked up some sand paper (about $5 worth, various grits up to 2k) and a couple square feet of 1/4" plate glass ($5, it was scrap at a local glass & mirror shop). Looking forward to splitting hairs lengthwise or whatever the test is. The edge of the chisel should glow blue due to the air atoms being split as they touch it.
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Apr 7, 2012 04:00
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Stultus Maximus posted:The edge of the chisel should glow blue due to the air atoms being split as they touch it. Pffft! Amateur! The edges of my chisels are not even visible since they cut into another dimension.
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Apr 7, 2012 05:37
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Guys, a (very cleanly cut) hole in the space time continuum seems to have opened over my kitchen sink, and non-euclidean mind-rending horrors are spewing forth. Too sharp? 
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Apr 7, 2012 05:45
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Bad Munki posted:Guys, a (very cleanly cut) hole in the space time continuum seems to have opened over my kitchen sink, and non-euclidean mind-rending horrors are spewing forth. Too sharp?
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Apr 7, 2012 09:16
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Bad Munki posted:Guys, a (very cleanly cut) hole in the space time continuum seems to have opened over my kitchen sink, and non-euclidean mind-rending horrors are spewing forth. Too sharp? No, that's normal. Just use a brad nailer to patch the hole up until the glue dries. Keep slicing away until you open a rift that spews forth milkshakes and jelly doughnuts. When that happens, you'll know you have found the correct sharpening angle.
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Apr 7, 2012 12:05
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I know of https://www.turningblanks.net but does anyone else know of other sources for domestic turning stock?
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Apr 9, 2012 19:00
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I've ordered from http://www.exoticwoodsusa.com/ and had a good experience, and they have a pretty good range of woods in variously sized blanks, not sure if that helps or not.
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Apr 9, 2012 19:56
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I made a miter sled last night. I have an older Craftsman table saw and it will not tilt all the way to 45 degrees. The jigs works pretty good. I still need to add a hold down or toggle clamp to it. The nice thing about this jig is that I can cut a miter, then flip the board over and cut a notch for a spline. 
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Apr 11, 2012 21:57
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Hey Chaotic, I'm buying a lathe very soon but I'm kinda doubting if the 12" swing is enough. I've never turned anything larger but I feel like its the same as a bandsaw, bigger is better. Actually that's not true- I've turned two pretty large outboard pieces and they were SO FUN. The thing that got me into turning was seeing huge turned pieces. I love smaller stuff, and I'm totally 100% amateur, but I would love the ability to work on a big piece, probably bigger than the delta I'm looking at could handle. What was the point where you said "powermatic 3250b!?" Would you say just get a used 12" swing for a while until you NEED the next size, or do you think its worth it using that money to go for bigger?
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Apr 16, 2012 14:43
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In my case I was always drawn to the bigger lathes, I just couldn't justify the expense for quite some time. When I finally did break down and get a smaller one in a desperate bid to deflect the pull of the big lathes I found that everyone wanted bowls that were outside it's 12" swing. Also trying to turn bowls within a few inches of it's capacity wasn't really that fun. It has a nice motor for a lathe it's size, but the first time I turned on the 3520B it was a revelation. Rough out time was halved right out of the gate, and it's only improved since then. I used to watch turning videos with these virtuoso turners making rough squares of wood explode into bowls in 10.4 seconds and wonder what the hell I was doing wrong. Part of it was experience, part of it was my bowl gouge and the rest was simply power. I'm still inexperienced by almost any metric but I'm miles ahead of where I was back in December, at least in the bowl category. Frankly, if the big lathe bug is already in you it isn't going away and buying a smaller one is only going to delay the inevitable. Good thing is if you pick up a 46-460 the resale value is pretty good since they have a nice rep. I watched the price of the 3520 climb from mid to high $2000's on sale to the current retail of $3999. Prices aren't going down either. I don't know if you were considering the 3520 specifically, but if you are call TheToolNut and they'll give you the best price around. I think it was $3400 for me with free shipping. If you're looking at the Jet's I'm not sure who to go with. TLDR: You already want a big lathe. Buying a small one will help distract you for awhile. You can save money in the long run by just getting the lathe you actually want. Big lathes are better in more ways than just capacity. Big lathes are more funner.
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Apr 16, 2012 18:44
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Here's some crap I've finished over the past few weeks.      
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Apr 20, 2012 00:14
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ChaoticSeven posted:Here's some crap I've finished over the past few weeks. these are beautiful, especially the spalted maple... what're you using to finish?
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Apr 20, 2012 00:25
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Thanks. All of these with the exception of the spalted maple are sanded, buffed with the Beal system and then wiped down with boiled linseed oil. After that dries a few days I put on some renaissance wax. The spalted maple is finished with CA glue. The natural edge persimmon bowl with chunky bark has no wax yet because I just sanded, buffed and oiled it today.
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Apr 20, 2012 00:38
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ChaoticSeven posted:Thanks. All of these with the exception of the spalted maple are sanded, buffed with the Beal system and then wiped down with boiled linseed oil. After that dries a few days I put on some renaissance wax. The spalted maple is finished with CA glue. The natural edge persimmon bowl with chunky bark has no wax yet because I just sanded, buffed and oiled it today. jeez, can you come to Oregon and teach me how to finish like that 
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Apr 20, 2012 00:54
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I wouldn't mind visiting Oregon someday, but you can do it solo. Few tips: 1. Buy decent sandpaper. Mirka, 3M etc. 2. Use it like someone else paid for it. This makes the biggest difference. 3. Reverse rotation on the lathe if you can, between each grit 4. At the least do 80 (if needed for tearout or something),120,180,220,280 5. Don't sand at too high a speed. 500 works nice through the grits. The lower the grit the faster you can sand. The higher you get in the grits the more you need to turn it down or you quickly end up in burnishing territory. Burnishing is fine and all but you're sanding right now. The final step of buffing it out really adds to the handfeel and look and is worth the investment. Without looking it up I think the Beal system is like $60 bucks or so. The buffing compounds it comes with last virtually forever and so does the wax. A word on the wax, however. It's carnuba, and for some reason it spots BADLY when it comes into contact with the smallest drop of water. Some people have this problem, some don't. Might be different mineral content in water. Might be a sourcing issue, dunno. Invest in a can of ren wax. $30, lasts forever. If you really wanna get wacky you can buy a right angle close quarters drill and some sanding pads. Saves a lot of time. http://vinceswoodnwonders.com/store/ This guy is great, ships fast and so on.
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Apr 20, 2012 01:27
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I think the best thing I did for sanding on the lathe was buying these little 1" wide rolls of various grits of sandpaper. You just tear off a few inches of the needed grit, and when you're done, you throw it away. Makes the sandpaper much more effective, and the narrow width combined with the cloth backing makes it follow the contours of your work piece very nicely. I just bought them at a local supplier, I don't know what one would search for elsewhere, but man they're nice. And I just ran a bit of rod through the rolls and hung them on the wall above the lathe, great for easy access. Just so:  That goes from 150 through 400 and makes it so braindead easy to effectively sand a project.
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Apr 20, 2012 04:02
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My biggest problem is finding stock to turn that isn't ridiculously overpriced, and second coming up with ideas for things to turn. I don't have any chucks for bowls so I am limited to spindles.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:33
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Depending on where you're at, craigslist is great for finding free wood. Also, drive around after a big windstorm. Admittedly, this wouldn't do much for a person in NYC or down town LA, but in the midwest, it's a perfect source.
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Apr 20, 2012 19:41
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Bad Munki posted:Depending on where you're at, craigslist is great for finding free wood. Also, drive around after a big windstorm. Admittedly, this wouldn't do much for a person in NYC or down town LA, but in the midwest, it's a perfect source. I'm almost afraid to stop and take wood off the side of the rogue. I feel like a farmer is going to walk up with a shotgun and be all "what you doin boy" I also never knew what the hell to look for in wood I find on the side of the road, god knows I'll be throwing softwood into the car.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:03
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So? It's free! If you don't like it, you can burn it. Also, try the local landfill. They usually have a separate area for brush and such, and you can find some fun stuff there. Bonus: take any poo poo wood you got from the side of the road, then weigh in at the landfill, and when you leave with your new wood, you weigh out, and if you're careful, you can get a zero or close to zero balance, thereby trading one wood for the other! Not sure what they'd say if you weighed MORE on the way out, but I think a lot of places have rules against scavenging.  But craigslist is a great way to find wood, often people will have a tree down they just want to get rid of, and it's not like you have to take the whole thing. Oh, and farmers are nice. Just go knock on a door and be all, "Hey pal, saw you have a tree down there...you mind if I take a few logs?" Odds are they'll be friendly, maybe a little chatty, and in some cases even come out and help you load your truck. If you're afraid to be so direct, leave a six pack of beer at the end of the driveway with a note that says, "Mind if I take some of that wood?" and a phone number. :P Whereabouts in the country are you? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 20:18
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MarshallX posted:I'm almost afraid to stop and take wood off the side of the rogue. I feel like a farmer is going to walk up with a shotgun and be all "what you doin boy" I promise I'll go easy and use a pistol. Which state do you live in? I'm in northern CA and all people have on CL is over priced firewood.
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Apr 20, 2012 20:33
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jvick posted:I promise I'll go easy and use a pistol. Which state do you live in? I'm in northern CA and all people have on CL is over priced firewood. Canada.
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Apr 20, 2012 21:01
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So, like, the french part, orrrr...?
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Apr 20, 2012 21:22
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You should get a chuck man. I think Woodcraft or Rockler had the Supernova 2 on sale recently, very nice chuck. It took me awhile to get one too, but I used pen sales to pay for it. As far as wood goes you'll start getting more and more for free if you show your turnings to people. Even better if you offer a bowl or something in exchange for a sizable amount of green wood. You'll be surprised what starts turning up. Did this one today, the filler is crushed malachite:   
ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Apr 20, 2012 |
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Apr 20, 2012 21:30
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I'm building an Aeolian Harp and I'm agonizing a bit over the soundhole. The harp is 48x12 inches and the more I read about soundholes the less I understand. A hole isn't necessary but apparently increases bass response but also apparently an improperly sized soundhole can cause issues but I can find nothing about how to calculate the size. I'm probably way over-thinking it but I know a few people here have built them in the past.
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Apr 20, 2012 23:51
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I just guestimated and it worked fine. I think the best way to get a correctly-sized sound hole is to go online and find an insert you would like to use, and then make your hole fit that. e: Found the website I used for calculations: http://www.apsimplepsaltery.com/helmholtz.htm Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Apr 21, 2012 |
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Apr 21, 2012 00:19
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ChaoticSeven posted:I wouldn't mind visiting Oregon someday, but you can do it solo. Few tips: well I don't even have a lathe nor have I ever turned a single thing in my life, was more hoping to apply some of that to finishing regular pieces of lumber for the simple types of stuff I'm working on... I kind of want to refinish the coffee table I made, the paste wax finish I put on it and hand-buffed just really doesn't look that great and is super streaky. I need to figure out how to take it back down to the danish oil that's underneath the wax and then what to do from there to make it purtier.
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Apr 21, 2012 00:29
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Bad Munki posted:So, like, the french part, orrrr...? London, Ont
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Apr 21, 2012 00:45
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Oh, that's cool, I'm actually moving to Erie, PA just across the lake from you. We should both get boats and meet in the middle for some aquatic woodworking goon meet fun. But wow, craigslist doesn't show much of anything useful for you.The entire "free" section hosts one item: an orange male tabby, declawed and fixed, bring your own carrier. :/ Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Apr 21, 2012 |
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Apr 21, 2012 04:59
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, that's cool, I'm actually movie to Erie, PA just across the lake from you. We should both get boats and meet in the middle for some aquatic woodworking goon meet fun. Better yet, swim to the middle where you can work together to build a boat.
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Apr 21, 2012 05:04
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Bad Munki posted:I just guestimated and it worked fine. I think the best way to get a correctly-sized sound hole is to go online and find an insert you would like to use, and then make your hole fit that. Holy soundholes! I guess I wasn't over-thinking it. After reading through that and a few other pages, I think I'll just guesstimate too. Instead of one big hole, I think I'll drill a series of holes... maybe a bigger one in the center and a couple smaller ones on either side. Truthfully I have no idea what I'm doing anyway, just making it up as I go along. Here is an electric wind harp which is pretty kick rear end. http://home.comcast.net/~botronics/mfharp.html
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Apr 21, 2012 06:43
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I recommend going to http://www.folkcraft.com/search.html?sep=rosette&sed=128 and picking something you like, and then cut your hole based on that. Also, they sell tuning pins. You'll have to let me know what you do for strings. I still haven't found strings that I really like, but after reading some more, I think I'm going to restring my harp with some lower-note steel-wound nylon strings. Apparently low notes begin sounding with less wind, and the lower mass/higher diameter of the steel-wound nylon helps as well. Also: electric wind harps are the poo poo when it comes to recording because you get all the tones with the ability to 100% ignore the actual wind causing those notes. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Apr 21, 2012 |
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Apr 21, 2012 06:52
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MarshallX posted:My biggest problem is finding stock to turn that isn't ridiculously overpriced, and second coming up with ideas for things to turn. Book you should buy: The Frugal Woodturner, by Ernie Conover. Make bowl jigs, find free wood, profit. Turn and burnnn!
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Apr 22, 2012 18:13
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French Rolling Pins Each one of these was originally 7 individual scraps of wood approx 3/4" x 3/4" x 14". I ran them through the planer, glued and clamped them, then ran them through the lathe. One on the left is cherry, one on the right is white ash. Both of them have a few coats of tung oil. Edit: left/right mixup Blistex fucked around with this message at 01:35 on May 6, 2012 |
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Apr 23, 2012 01:49
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Nice free plans if anyone is interested! http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/free-plans-titanic-deck-chair
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Apr 23, 2012 16:59
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Remember that Moroccan guy that made the chess pieces with a bow lathe and his feet? This guy makes stools with power tools and hand tools, but only uses his feet because he doesn't have hands.
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Apr 23, 2012 19:53
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