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I am currently in the process of piecing together a FPV flyer. I am wondering if there are any video goggles that will fit nicely with glasses? I can't see poo poo without my glasses, so this pretty important. Do I need to just get a small lcd screen and fashion a box to block out the sun/reflections? I am also looking to get a Futaba 7c. On hobbyking, it comes with a R617FS receiver. Will this give me good range? Should I look at getting a different receiver? Will it also work with my mSR-X?
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Apr 11, 2012 18:01
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Sypher posted:I am currently in the process of piecing together a FPV flyer. I am wondering if there are any video goggles that will fit nicely with glasses? I can't see poo poo without my glasses, so this pretty important. Do I need to just get a small lcd screen and fashion a box to block out the sun/reflections? VitaminJ posts frequently on the forum at FPVLab.com David from RC Explorer has a good bunch of information on FPV here: http://rcexplorer.se/Educational/FPV/FPV.html - he took ski-goggles, cut out space for the FPV glasses he had, and mounted them inside that way. Using a TFT monitor and a box is also common and probably cheaper. The MSR-x has a Spektrum DSM2 receiver built in, so you'll need a Spektrum radio or the Spektrum Airmod module that fits in Futaba radios. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 18:46
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There aren't really any goggles that work with glasses. On top of that the goggles available are pretty crappy, really need a tech breakthrough in this area. You could always mod the video goggles into some ski goggles that fit glasses. An LCD screen is always a good choice too, just not as good in bright sunlight so a shade is needed. I wouldn't go any smaller than 7" for FPVing, a 13" is nearly perfect. 2.4ghz RC isn't recommended for FPVing but it will work as long as you know the limitations. Don't try to go much past 1km with clear LOS and don't try to fly behind any objects. No it won't work with the MSR because that's Spektrum 2.4ghz and it's proprietary. Check here for more help on your first set-up: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?1023-If-you-could-start-over-in-FPV-what-would-you-do-or-not-do http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?116-FPV-PILOT-TRAINING-CENTER-YOUR-ROAD-TO-FPV-SUCCESS
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Apr 11, 2012 18:48
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CrazyLittle posted:I wouldn't get multi-rotor stuff from Hobbyking aside from parts and plugs. Are you planning to use the APM as your flight controller? My camera is just a standard hobby camera module, like this (except mine is from hobbyking). No nothing fancy. As for "small", I mean something potentially small enough to be flown inside. Any suggestions for something in that size range? In other news, I just got the new propeller and prop adapter for my bixler yesterday. So last night, I decided to take a quick test flight at the park. Long story short, I shattered the nose. So, after glueing and taping everything to perfection, I tried again at lunch today. The first flight ended with me smashing it again, as I had accidentally changed the config on my transmitter...and reversed the elevator direction. After fixing that, I relaunched with my semi-smashed plane, because gently caress it, I was going to fly. And, somehow, this time my plane shot straight the gently caress up. I was beginning to correct, but then my battery fell out. Apparently, it fell straight down, was deeply gouged by the prop, and then finally had both the charging and balancing cables cut off. The smoking battery fell from the sky, and my unpowered plane did that sort of dive-climb-stall glide (I'm sure there's a name for it) because safely crashing into a bench.  Welp, time to replace suddenly shortened propeller, the battery, and somehow salvage the body using glue and tape.
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Apr 12, 2012 19:30
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At least you can look back at it and laugh, right? (I think it's pretty drat funny.) Get into the habit of a quick pre-flight check: Roll left/right, pitch up/down, rudder left/right, Throttle kill and throttle response... THEN launch the plane. I've had plenty of "wow that was dumb" crashes because I didn't check before launch. Slanderer posted:As for "small", I mean something potentially small enough to be flown inside. Any suggestions for something in that size range? Aside from kits, the only thing I can think of is the AR Drone (iPhone/iPad needeD) or the Blade For the DIY kit quad Hobbypartz/XHeli is selling some pretty small ones but they're still bigger than the micro coaxial helis that are fun indoors. I would be wary of flying a quad that's bigger than the CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Apr 13, 2012 |
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Apr 12, 2012 20:23
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*quote != edit*
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Apr 12, 2012 20:30
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CrazyLittle posted:For the DIY kit quad Hobbypartz/XHeli is selling some pretty small ones but they're still bigger than the micro coaxial helis that are fun indoors. I would be wary of flying a quad that's bigger than the MCP-X or AR Drone indoors. Hmm, lots of "interesting" color choices, but they don't look terrible. I'm planning on using my Ardupilot Mega 2.0 as the controller, so I guess I'll go with a kit (although I hate trying to figure out whether I have all the right hardware). Unrelated question: what's the best (or at least, most common) method for power distribution? Like, the transmitter for my camera needs unregulated battery voltage, so do I make a Y-connector, or should I just make a quick PCB with a bunch of female connectors on it (currently, I'm using XT60 connectors, because those deans T-plug connectors look weird). That seems like the most efficient solution to me (in terms of less wiring), but maybe I'm missing something. Also, for a power switch, is it normal to have the switch only shut off the receiver, and not the ESC? Despite the quiescent current of the linear regulator, I assume this is done because the battery should only be plugged in at the field?
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Apr 12, 2012 21:31
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The simplest method is a spider harness - just a bunch of wires soldered to gether with connectors to plug each ESC into, plus optional plug for BEC, and/or whatever else. Some of the fancier options are PCB bus boards, but those are usually saved for bigger copters. If you're doing an indoors mini/microquad, you should probably stick to soldering the ESC terminals directly together in parallel with a single battery plug. Heck, you may even want to avoid a kit entirely and just make a basic X-frame out of dowels. There's no magic in a multirotor frame. Again, what kind of camera are we talking about? Putting a camera on a mini/micro doesn't seem appropriate.
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Apr 13, 2012 01:24
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http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?4442-Mini-Quad-Blade-mQX
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Apr 13, 2012 01:42
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Vitamin J posted:http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?4442-Mini-Quad-Blade-mQX Whoops that's the model I was thinking of - not the MCP but the mQX. Thanks!
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Apr 13, 2012 02:00
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$2 distribution board. http://www.valuehobby.com/esc-distribution-board.html
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Apr 14, 2012 14:07
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Ok guys, I am doing this! Getting ready to build my easystar kit. I would just like you all to take a look at everything I am planning to purchase to make sure it all works together and if I need anything else: -Easy Star Electric Kit - $72.19 -Futaba 6EX 6ch 2.4 GHz RC FASST Transmitter/Receiver - $189.40 -Futaba 7ch R617FS 2.4GHz Receiver - $79.98 -2x E-Flite 2200mAh 3S 11.1V 30C LiPo - $44.99 -Thunder AC6 Smart LiPo Balance Charger/Discharger w/ AC Adapter for 1-6 Lipo/ 1-15 Nimh + USB to PC Software - $43.95 -"Power Pack: Easy Star/Mini Mag" (this includes Himax 2815-2000 Brushless Motor, 5.5 x 4.5 APC Prop, Hub and Driver, MULTIcont BL-17 ESC) - $77.59 -Hitec 31081S HS-81 Sub Micro Servo - $14.14 This is all being purchased through Amazon for a total of $567.23. Unfortuantely this is a bit more than what I was expecting, so I will not be buying FPV gear for awhile(which is probably good because it will give me time to learn how to fly before breaking all expensive FPV gear :P) Any input is greatly appreciated. Sypher fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Apr 14, 2012 |
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Apr 14, 2012 20:29
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Ditch the Eflite batteries and charger. Get those from hobbyking. Hell get a bixler from hobbyking if you dont mind waiting for them to come back in stock. $600 is way to much money to buy an Easystar.
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Apr 14, 2012 20:52
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Well to be fair I'm sure a big chunk of that price is the Futaba radio and receiver. Based on his list the plane, ESC and motor come out to $150 total. Not quite as cheap but certainly not breaking the bank. The Hitec servos are damned pricey at $12-15 each though. *edit* holy crap $45 bucks for a 2200mah battery? ouch. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 14, 2012 |
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Apr 14, 2012 20:55
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I edited my post and added the prices to all the items. I originally was going to go with a Bixler since it already has a brushless motor; however, I have read several comments that people wait up to 6 months for backorders to be fufilled. After reading those comments, I am not sure if I want to go through HobbyKing. I really want to get the Turnigy 2200mAH batteries from HobbyKing, but they are on backorder.
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Apr 14, 2012 21:14
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Sypher, get this stuff instead: - Easystar standard kit (not the RR version) - Spektrum DX6i (or if you are not sure if you stick with the hobby, the DX5e is OK but you will sel it after the second plane!) - knock-off IB6 charger from ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMax-B6-Digital-LCD-Lipo-NiMh-battery-Balance-Charger-/320855087727?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab4741a6f 20 bucks - 2 2200mah 3s Lipos, Zippy Flightmax from Hobbyking 20C is more then enough http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store%85?idProduct=6306 - this ESC and engine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1700Kv-1700...=item3f12e91419 22 bucks - 2 HXT900 servos from Hobbyking http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=662 (they are bit too small, but just fill the gaps with some hotglue (be careful not to melt the EPP foam) ) - 3.5mm plugs for ESC to motor connection: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store%85sp?idProduct=68 you need three, extras are always useful - some XT60 plugs ttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store…idProduct=10414 to connect batterys with ESC - an APC-E 6x4 propeller (local hobby store) - an adapter form the APC-E prop to a 4mm axle (for the motor) - also local hobby store - 50g CA glue from HK http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store%85?idproduct=7174 - some kicker spray (local hobby store) - lastly: to mount the outrunner on the Easystar, get an old filmcan or a Humbrol paint can. Ideal size if you dremel off the ridge, just drill five holes in it, mount the engine - boom. Perfect size for the ES  Should set you back less then 350 bucks and you have good stuff to start flying with. I recommend the DX6i, the DX5e has no memory settings and if you have mroe then 2 planes later, this sucks rear end. The DX6i is proven, reliable and just works. Nothing great, but you can also get knock off receivers for it later if you want. Edit: I prefer the Zippy to the Turnigy batteries. Had too many Turnigys puff up on me after one season, while the Zippys *all* lasted two or three seasons for me. The 2200mah ones are a bit too light for the Easystar, make sure you add a bit extra weight in the nose and set the CoG 3-4mm in front of what Multiplex recommends. Makes much nicer and easier flights this way. Trust me, my third ES is still alive after four years now. still tons of fun with it, doing aerial pictures, videos and dropping bombs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_XmmDKsV2U Hoeni fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Apr 14, 2012 |
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Apr 14, 2012 21:24
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I already have a DX6i for my blade helis; however, I have heard it is terrible for FPV. All research I have done points to the Futaba 6EX being great.
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Apr 14, 2012 21:28
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Sypher posted:I already have a DX6i for my blade helis; however, I have heard it is terrible for FPV. All research I have done points to the Futaba 6EX being great. That's a bit silly. If the radio's got programmable expo then you're fine. If they're complaining about the Spektrum DX6i because it's only 6 channels, getting a 6ch Futaba won't fix that.
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Apr 14, 2012 23:10
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The issue is if you use 2.4Ghz FPV equipment AND a 2.4Ghz radio. Then either the FPV signal gets drowned in the radio one or (worse) the other way round. the futaba uses 2.4 as well, so this will be a problem with both systems. Fix: Either use a classic 72mhz radio (may I recommend then a used graupner MX12? Dirt cheap, its what I learned to fly with as well and 35Mhz works well enough most of the time) OR (a bit more expensive admittedly) 5.8Ghz FPV equipment with the Spektrum or Futaba. You will have at least a year ahead of you learning to fly and land anyways (landing is way more difficult then you imagine if you want to do always 100% smooth landings. Otherwise your FPV stuff will be dead after a few "mistakes". Promise.), and during that time the DX5e or DX6i will be more then adequate to get the job done. If you already have the Spektrum, there is not much use in getting the Futaba for later FPV flying. Edit: If you fly helis, then landing will be easier for you. Still: 2.4 is the problem if you use 2.4 FPV stuff later. Check the 5.8 stuff out at HK.
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Apr 14, 2012 23:47
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Slanderer posted:my unpowered plane did that sort of dive-climb-stall glide (I'm sure there's a name for it) because safely crashing into a bench. It's a fun word to learn! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phugoid
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Apr 15, 2012 10:27
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Sypher posted:I already have a DX6i for my blade helis; however, I have heard it is terrible for FPV. All research I have done points to the Futaba 6EX being great. I keep hearing this about 2.4 ghz DSM radios and poor range for FPV, but also hearing that they are easy to boost with this : http://store.diydrones.com/2_4GHz_Amplifier_1000mW_p/wi-amp-24-500.htm http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/how-to-boost-your-24ghz above posted:Then i got my cheap Asian amplifier and using a 2.4Ghz Patch Antenna i was able to fly around 2.6 miles (4.18Km) away without a single glitch, but i was unable to continue because now my video was causing me problems, hehe! I plan on doing this to my DX7. It's a clumsy setup, but I'm thinking about a ground station in my office at home, and this would let me run all antennas outside. Also, you could sit in a car and FPV and have all antennas outside. ease fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Apr 15, 2012 |
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Apr 15, 2012 13:20
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ease posted:I keep hearing this about 2.4 ghz DSM radios and poor range for FPV, but also hearing that they are easy to boost with this : There are also systems like this dragonlink.
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Apr 15, 2012 22:00
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Some good feedback here. Thanks guys. So since I already have a DX6i, I can just get a booster as long as my video is on a different frequency? I was planning on using 1.2ghz for my video once I get to that point. I have heard that 5.8 has terrible range. 900mhz apparently has a lot of interference in my area (talked in PMs with a local guy from FPVlab). Is there any reason as to why I should avoid 1.2ghz for video?
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Apr 16, 2012 03:57
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Be sure to read the discussion on that Argtek booster here: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?4587-The-Argtek-2.4GHz-booster-thread It has failed on people without warning resulting in the loss of several planes. We're experimenting to try and figure out the causes and look for other solutions. For other 2.4ghz RC tech as it pertains to FPV check out these two threads: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?1333-Spektrum-DX8-range-testing http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?4507-FrSky-User-Thread If you plan on using 1.2ghz video with any 2.4ghz control you MUST think about getting some sort of rf filter like a low pass or notch filter. 2.4ghz gets swamped by some 1.2ghz vtxs so you've gotta do something about it or you'll kill your range. If you're serious about using 2.4ghz for RC then check this out: http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread.php?2814-Antenna-change-on-FrSky-rx Also 5.8ghz doesn't have terrible range, the record is 18km on 200mw right now.
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Apr 16, 2012 15:38
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I got a Feixuan FX037 as my first non-coaxial heli, however as I'm building up the throttle before take off it moves left along the ground, I'm not sure why, I've moved the right stick all the way over to the right and it still moves left. I've tried holding it by the rotor to see if there's more weight on one side than the other but it seem to balance OK. I realized the tail rotor would be working to pull it in that direction and I wondered if this is normal, if not what should I look at next?
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Apr 16, 2012 19:25
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4-channel helicopters usually have to be mechanically trimmed for hovering. You should try to get it in the air outside first, and see if it still has a hard left lean to it. If it does then you need to adjust the linkage on the swashplate to compensate. Also with smaller helis you won't have accurate enough tail authority to really compensate for the main rotor's speed until it's a flight-speed, so once you get the main rotor started, punch it to take off. Don't wait around on the ground.
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Apr 16, 2012 19:43
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Crankit posted:I got a Feixuan FX037 as my first non-coaxial heli, however as I'm building up the throttle before take off it moves left along the ground, I'm not sure why, I've moved the right stick all the way over to the right and it still moves left. I've tried holding it by the rotor to see if there's more weight on one side than the other but it seem to balance OK. That is normal. Get her in flight and then work on trimming it out. I haven't flown that specific helicopter, but it probably wont hover as easily and nicely as your coax. Even with perfect trimming. fp / cp helis need constant attention and adjustments.
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Apr 16, 2012 20:08
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After yet another tragic (and completely expected) crash of my Bixler involving the clevis pin on one of my ailerons snapping moments into the flight, I bit the bullet and bought this quadcopter kit After hours of assembly and lots of soldering (drat them for selling the motors and ESCs without any connectors attached!), I finished getting it setup today. The arducopter documentation is terrible. It's fragmented, contradictory, and pieced together from lots of different and incompatible versions of the software. After an hour or two of trying to figure out why the motors were responding exactly the wrong way on one axis, I came to the conclusion that the documentation had to be wrong. After flipping a connector, getting it off the ground was dead simple, and it stabilized pretty well after it gets in the air (although it always looks like it's going to flip over at takeoff). I ended up breaking a prop on a piece of outdoor furniture, and one of my friends broke another two in a tree. All in all, a success. Of course, in the process of all this, I managed to take a propeller to my hand at one point. After flying was concluded for the day, I ended up with 12 stitches, and a renewed love of binding a switch to throttle hold. Now my question: Sorry for my bad terminology, but when I push the elevator control forward, should the quad pitch forwards or backwards? I thought it was just my controls were reversed, but the bad documentation mentions somewhere that the high pwm signal on the pitch channel should pitch backwards. This right?
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Apr 20, 2012 04:57
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Elevator stick forward = copter tilt forward. It should be have in a similar manner as any other plane/heli.
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Apr 20, 2012 05:59
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Slanderer posted:Of course, in the process of all this, I managed to take a propeller to my hand at one point. After flying was concluded for the day, I ended up with 12 stitches, and a renewed love of binding a switch to throttle hold. I got my 120 sr today and I, too, am learning very quickly the importance of muscle memory to flip on that hold switch on my tx every time I go anywhere near it. These things are stupidly dangerous, I hope by the time I'm ready for a quadrocopter, I have got these fundamentals down, lest I lose a finger entirely. 12 stitches? 
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Apr 20, 2012 07:16
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Is there a page that basically sums up all the terminology for me quite concisely, primarily for helis like stuff about the rotor head and controls but I'd like to know some RC plane stuff to. There's a bunch of stuff I don't fully understand when I see you talking about it, and also when I want to ask a question I don't want to refer to everything as "thingy".
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Apr 20, 2012 07:25
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Crankit posted:Is there a page that basically sums up all the terminology for me quite concisely, primarily for helis like stuff about the rotor head and controls but I'd like to know some RC plane stuff to. There's a bunch of stuff I don't fully understand when I see you talking about it, and also when I want to ask a question I don't want to refer to everything as "thingy". I'd appreciate this as well, if anyone has this resource... My questions: I managed to damage a few of the brushless motors in a tragic and completely expected crash from ~50 feet yesterday (lost orientation on the quad, it was waaaay too high and on the wrong side of the quad, about to head over above a building, managed to bring it back, and hit a tree.). At least 2 of them have partially-damaged female threads.. Would replacing the screws (which are also partially stripped) and adding threadlocker be a justifiable fix, or do I need to get a tap and die set to make new threads for different screws? Also, I managed to push the shafts in a cm or so on a couple propellers... Can I remove the retaining ring (?) on the bottom of the shaft, reset the shaft, and replace it? Is there some trick to removing + replacing these? I already took one off in a very roughly with pliers (since leads from one of the motors were cut by the sharp edge of arm of the quad, and there isn't quite enough enameled wire sticking out).
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Apr 22, 2012 21:58
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I just built my first quad and got it flying a few days ago. I have no RC experience so I'm not sure if the way it flies is supposed to be normal. I'm using a KK board running 4.7 in X configuration. It has a pretty stable liftoff, but it doesn't remain in a stationary hover for long. I'm assuming stationary hover requires more sensors than just gyros to accomplish, which is fine by me. The thing that bothers me the most is that when I try yawing my quad starts losing altitude very quickly. If anyone has experience with quads, is this supposed to happen? Am I supposed to compensate for altitude drops in yawing by goosing the throttle? My only guess is that the quad is way too heavy and the motors dont have enough juice to yaw+hover at the same time. I'm running 4x DT700 with 10x4.7 props with 1.3kg all up weight, and I seem to achieve liftoff at about 65% throttle.
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Apr 27, 2012 06:37
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Yes. Quadrotors yaw by reducing the rotor speed of the pair of props that resist the direction you want to go. Since gyros only sense angular rotational you would need an accelerometer and/or sonar/barometer on board to compensate for linear motion changes. KaptainKuk boards are the barest minimum needed to have stable multirotor flight. They do their designed job very well though.
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Apr 27, 2012 08:17
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That makes sense. I guess I didn't consider that the motor pair for yawing would slow down enough to make the quad lose a ton of altitude. A few things I need to do that I think might help is cut weight on the quad and limit the range of the yaw output on my transmitter from 0-100% to something more like 0-25% if I want to make it easier to yaw while maintaining a hover.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:00
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I seem to recall that the TX setup instructions on KaptainKuk's site tell you to set your throws to 50% of max for that reason. If you're maxing out then there's no extra "oomph" for the motors to reach into when need to lift one corner that's already spinning at max. With DT700 motors you can always put bigger props on so that you can "hover" with less throttle. You're good all the way up to 12" at least, as long as you're not overloading your ESCs.
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Apr 27, 2012 09:06
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Ah okay, I've been piecing together information by digging through the rcgroups forums but I didn't catch that tip about reducing throws. I'll also go ahead and see if I can score some 12" props, but I'll probably have to order from overseas because I don't think any of the local stores carry the counter rotating ones. Fake edit: Do you have any suggestions on if I should go with lower or higher pitch on my props if I'm aiming for stability? yergacheffe fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 11:00
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You'll want slow-fly props for stability. If you're getting resonant wobbles you may also want to look into the reflashed ESCs that are specific for multirotor setups, but the first step is to reduce vibration in the frame and balance the motors/props. KK's setup page: http://www.kkmulticopter.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=57 quote:Initial transmitter ATV/servo range settings: CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 16:38
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So copter control has released a new board to testers? CC3D? This is awesome news, although I've very late. http://www.openpilot.org/openpilot-production-status/ ease fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 27, 2012 |
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Apr 27, 2012 19:27
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I'm looking to get back into very casual RC (cars and planes), and the inner-child in me couldn't resist ordering one of these - http://www.microflight.com/Online-Catalog/ARF-Kits/MicroRacers-Kit-P-51-Miss-America I used to play with those little 50 cent foam planes you would get at cheap toy stores or prizes at arcades that came in the paper wrapper. I've always thought to myself how cool it would be if I could actually control it, and these RC planes look to be pretty much exactly that. I'll admit I haven't read the whole thread, but anyone in here have any experience with these little guys?
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Apr 28, 2012 12:51
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