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I hear you on the odd paint. When I moved into a place the former tenant had painted two walls blood red, and two dark navy. It was a pain, and I hadn't really painted before, so I hope some of these tips will help. Number 1- Buy a good quality brush and roller brush! I painted for the first time and used a cheap one that came in a kit from Walmart, and I really could tell it was cheap. The coverage was no good, and it had an odd texture. I shelled out a bit more for one from sure line, I think? It's at Lowes and is in green packaging. Made a world of difference and worth the price! Also, you definitely want to buy some Kilz for the red, and maybe the blue as well. I would talk to the guy at the paint counter. Buy a bit more paint than you think you need, and keep it for touch ups, as well as for matching. Get a disposable liner for your paint pan, or line it with foil, it makes clean up much easier. Buy painters tape, it's not cheap, and takes time to apply, but really makes a difference. Just make sure to remove it when the paint is still wet, to prevent the paint from bleeding under it. Remove all switch plates. The dumbass chick that lived here before me didn't for some reason, so all the plates have paint on them???? Wear a hat, you will get paint everywhere. Get a cheap plastic drop cloth, you do not want paint on your floor. Keep a damp cloth slung over your shoulder, if you do get paint on trim or somewhere else, you can immediately wipe it, no problem. Clean the walls first, using a little soap and water. If there is grease from handprints or something it will prevent the paint from sticking. If you can, try and figure out if it is latex you are painting over. My walls were shiney and I found out that the paint would peel off  Plan on doing it in shifts, but plan it well. I have heard that if you do one wall, and then do it another day, the change in weather or drying time or something can affect the final color, leaving you with differing shades. I hope this helps, painting is kind of a pain, but seeing the final result is so worth it! Editing to add: If you can, talk to your landlord before you paint anything. Sometimes, if they like the color they may not make you paint over it when you move out, but get it in writing. As Butt Wizard said, do keep a window open for ventilation, unless sniffing paint is your thing... Ctrl_Alt_Delete fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Apr 10, 2012 |
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Apr 10, 2012 04:58
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That's awesome advice. I didn't think of most of that stuff last time I painted. One more thing, maybe keep a window open or set up a fan if your paint is stinky. Painting lightheaded is no fun. eta: This thread only recently became for general decorating etc too, so I don't have any links for that in the OP. I've just linked the above post, though. Anyone have any sites they like for furniture shopping, decoration ideas, tips, etc.?
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Apr 10, 2012 14:09
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Since you tossed a link to IKEA up in the OP, this one might be a nice accompaniment: http://www.ikeahackers.net/ I browse it pretty frequently even though there's no IKEA in my state. It's given me plenty of ideas for decoration even though I don't have access to the exact pieces they're using.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:15
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Millions posted:Since you tossed a link to IKEA up in the OP, this one might be a nice accompaniment: http://www.ikeahackers.net/ Thank you, sir, for introducing this website into my life.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:40
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psydude posted:If you're going to hire a moving company, then make sure you don't go with the lowest bidder. Remember that the amount they're paid is directly proportional to the amount of fucks they give about your stuff. As a former mover, it really doesn't matter to the hired hands. They make the same no matter the scope of the job. They give no fucks especially if it looks like you don't tip, don't offer water, or are otherwise a prick!
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Apr 10, 2012 16:58
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Sorry if this has already been covered in this thread, but I haven't seen it. Any suggestions for writing an effective craigslist ad? I'm moving but I ran into lease issues -- the new place's lease starts June 1st and my old lease ends in July. Obviously, I don't want to eat the rent. The new landlord won't budge on the lease, but my old landlord said he will let me out if I can find a new tenant (no subletting  )I found some obvious suggestions through google; quote:Some of the information at a minimum should be: (1) rent, (2) security deposit, (3) hardwood or carpet? (4) fridge included? (5) laundry on premises? (6) # of parking spots and parking situation – street parking, carport parking, subterranean parking? (7) available move-in date (8) specific address (9) proximity to freeways, (10) availability of AC, (11) utilities – what will the tenant be responsible for and what is the landlord responsible for? (12) upstairs or lower unit, (13) length of lease required I'm going to try to find someone's DSLR to borrow for decent pictures. Are lovely cellphone pictures a total dealbreaker? Anything not covered above that I should know/include?
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Apr 10, 2012 21:29
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I wouldn't put your phone number in the ad unless you want craigslist weirdos calling you at all hours of the day and night. Might want to anonymize your email address too. Really depends on how comfortable you are with your personal information out on the internet. Everything else sounds good though.
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Apr 10, 2012 23:36
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Butt Wizard posted:That's awesome advice. I didn't think of most of that stuff last time I painted. One more thing, maybe keep a window open or set up a fan if your paint is stinky. Painting lightheaded is no fun. http://www.betterlivingthroughdesign.com/ and http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ are my go to design blogs. betterlivingthroughdesign is useful when you want a specific thing like shelves or a sofa and want to find a bunch of different options.
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Apr 11, 2012 02:59
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Hey, I just found out (like, today) that my roommate and I have a serious problem. Not with each other, with the management company. Basically, here's how this happened: Both of us are grad students here in Florida. We got this apartment in September. A 6-month lease was too short, because we needed to be here until at least the end of April, but we were pretty sure we wouldn't be around all summer and that a 12-month lease would be too long. We were also told that we couldn't sublet. However, the manager told us that we had the option to give 2 months advanced notice, pay 2 months rent in advance, and end our lease early if we indeed needed to leave town in May for our summer work. In February, it became apparent that we needed to move out at or near the beginning of May, since our grad program doesn't include a summer stipend, she got funded to go to Athens over the summer, and I got a summer teaching job elsewhere that pays better. We went to talk to the manager and...it turns out that 1) the company that owned our complex has since sold it to a new company, and 2) the lease as written, contrary to how it was explained to us, ACTUALLY says that we need to pay a 2-month PENALTY in ADDITION to our regular rent. This is not something either of us can afford. Eventually we get to talk to the regional manager of the new realty company. He is sympathetic, and says that even though he is constrained by the letter of the lease agreement, he is willing to make it easy for us and thinks they can re-rent our apartment, and he will advertise it for May and let us off the hook if we pay through May, if that's what we want to do. Phew, thank god we got that settled. I gave him a call at the end of March--he wasn't there, but I left a message, and he'd been good about getting back to me in time. Now that that's over I can concentrate on my term papers and grading my students. Then we just found out that the reason we haven't heard back from the regional manager is that he is no longer the regional manager. The manager on site won't let us move out in May, unless we pay the penalty fee RIGHT NOW. They (the company) also say it will be complicated for us to get someone to simply take over our lease--we'll have to sign a "roommate release," whatever that is (they did not offer to explain it). What recourse do we have? What can we do? Neither of us has enough money to drop an extra $770 on this, nor do we have money for a lawyer, nor do we have TIME to deal with this because of our workload and the fact that we need to be gone in a month. We were explicitly told things by people who have since vanished without leaving any paperwork saying what they told us, and it looks like we're screwed. Help me goons.
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Apr 12, 2012 05:12
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Apollodorus posted:What recourse do we have? What can we do? Neither of us has enough money to drop an extra $770 on this, nor do we have money for a lawyer, nor do we have TIME to deal with this because of our workload and the fact that we need to be gone in a month. We were explicitly told things by people who have since vanished without leaving any paperwork saying what they told us, and it looks like we're screwed. My sister-in-law is a property manager and she's told me before that legally they can either require 2 months advance notice or take 2 months rent in advance to end the lease early (depending on whether you can wait two months to leave or have to leave immediately), but not both at the same time even if it's contracted that way. I don't know if there's any overriding governing body, of a sort, you can appeal to about this, though, if they're going to be stubborn and refuse to take just one or the other. KillerBean posted:As a former mover, it really doesn't matter to the hired hands. They make the same no matter the scope of the job. They give no fucks especially if it looks like you don't tip, don't offer water, or are otherwise a prick! How much did you, as a mover, consider acceptable as a tip?
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Apr 12, 2012 17:08
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Apollodorus posted:lease stuff Read your lease, it's the binding legal document in this case. It should clearly explain your options and the costs associated with those options. People can tell you anything they want, but the lease is the document that matters. If you lease has a clause in it for early termination that costs 2 months rent, well there is your option to terminate the lease early. In summary, you're screwed. I would have signed a 6 month lease and then went month to month for a few months.
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Apr 12, 2012 17:27
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xeria posted:How much did you, as a mover, consider acceptable as a tip? Well, it obviously depends on the size/conditions of the job. If we're talking about a smaller/medium house maybe 10-20; it really depends on the hours put in. The best tip I received was after a 12-13 hour day, hauling furniture up into the third floor of what was basically a manor. I think they gave everyone ~$80 because it was a hell of a day and they were obviously well to do individuals. Movers generally don't make much unless they also drive the truck. Back in the boom times of the mid-2000s your standard hired hand was making $8/hr. I'm sure it's around the same now. But my major point is, it's really considerate to tip because movers don't make much and it really brightens up your day to get slipped a 10 or 20 after working in the summer heat from 630am to 630pm. I don't think most people realize that the mover has to get up early, report to the company early, travel to your house, do the job, and then travel back all in one day. Not only that but frequently you have to do a second job if the first one wraps up in the afternoon. TLDR: tip your movers, they get paid poo poo. offer your movers water/drinks, it's hot out. if you're really cool, and you have a really big house, offer to buy some sandwiches. EDIT: im getting a mattress delivered this weekend and i'll probably give the guys five bucks each because christ who wants to deliver mattresses all day long.
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Apr 12, 2012 17:49
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KillerBean posted:
The move I completed recently we had a blast with the movers, they were joking and laughing with me throughout and I gave them each $40 and bought em a subway sammich as they had spent four hours of their Saturday hauling my poo poo. The fact that they weren't surly and went out of their way to accommodate a couple extra requests was just really nice. Tip your movers, the muscle aches and rushed feeling from trying to move your own goddamn laundry machines up and down stairs is just the worst.
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Apr 12, 2012 20:14
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skipdogg posted:
Oh well. Month to month was not an option, otherwise this is what we'd have done.
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Apr 12, 2012 20:33
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Apollodorus posted:Oh well. Month to month was not an option, otherwise this is what we'd have done. Does your university have any Off Campus Housing service? I know our university offers advice and some legal help to students with off campus housing.
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Apr 13, 2012 03:19
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The legal aid office here is mostly a referral service to law firms in town, but there are firms that provide free legal aid to those at or below the poverty line (i.e. grad students like me). It seems like we MIGHT be able to get away from this clean, but our best option is probably still getting replacement tenants. It's so frustrating having to move out over the summer and being unable to sublet; next year will be the same, since both of us will have finished our grad program and be going elsewhere. Honestly, I feel at this point that one of the main reasons I want to do a PhD is so I can live in the same place for more than a year. Which is a bad reason.
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Apr 13, 2012 22:19
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What things should I look at for a bed when renting? A lot of beds I've looked at don't look very mobile or moveable. And as a related question, if you have the space, is bigger = better?
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Apr 16, 2012 03:09
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Comstar posted:What things should I look at for a bed when renting? A lot of beds I've looked at don't look very mobile or moveable. And as a related question, if you have the space, is bigger = better? Ikea has bed frames you can take apart relatively easily. Your goal is to not hate yourself every time you move it, so don't get a box spring. Full size bed should be enough for comfort even with two people, unless they're both landwhales.
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Apr 16, 2012 04:36
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Comstar posted:What things should I look at for a bed when renting? A lot of beds I've looked at don't look very mobile or moveable. And as a related question, if you have the space, is bigger = better? I would disagree about a full being enough and would go for a queen if you've got two people sleeping in the bed. Don't get a king unless you are willing to deal with a lot of headaches. They are much harder to move and a lot of places won't have bedrooms large enough to house a king sized bed comfortably. Look for real wood (or metal), not particle board (this is true for all furniture, particle board does not break down and move well). Skip the box spring and get something that just has slats. Make sure there are enough slats. I got this bedframe with the headboard at the last place I lived and was quite happy with it. You can easily paint it any color you want, it goes together and breaks down easily, and doesn't get wobbly after it's been in use for a while. It was also cheaper than anything I could find locally. I was much happier with it than the Ikea bedframe I'd had before (though I'm sure some of the Ikea ones are perfectly fine).
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Apr 16, 2012 05:10
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Get a queen. I have a full-sized and it's super annoying to have more than one person sleeping on it.
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Apr 16, 2012 13:53
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Full-size vs. queen really depends on the sleeping habits of the people who will be using it. I don't have a problem sharing a full with my boyfriend, but neither of us sprawl out when we sleep and we're both pretty skinny. On the other hand my roommate constantly bitches about her full bed being too small for her and her boyfriend because he likes to sprawl out and leaves her no room. If you have the space I'd go with a queen though, but full isn't the end of the world. It's also one hell of a lot easier to find bed frames for queen than full too.
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Apr 16, 2012 16:15
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At the end of the day you're only really talking about 6" of additional space. If you have a really tiny room that might mean the difference of being able to open your closet door all the way, but I don't think that msot people will notice the lost space in their floorplan, but might notice it in bed. We have a queen and its great, I think that we would have been ok with a full as well, but the additional room is nice.
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Apr 16, 2012 16:21
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I'm 5'8" and tend to be a sprawler, so I can't wait to upgrade to a queen from a full. Here's an interesting page that has more info: http://www.bettersleep.org/onbettersleep/what_size.asp
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Apr 16, 2012 16:27
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How timely of a conversation! I just bought a new Sealy posturpedic queen bed and just spent my first night sleeping on it. What an amazing difference over my previous fifteen year old busted out full mattress.Ashcans posted:At the end of the day you're only really talking about 6" of additional space. You must not be that tall.  Butt Wizard posted:so don't get a box spring While, sure having a box spring is a pain in the rear end but in this day and age you can get a box spring which is split in two. I would recommend getting this if you live in a region with older buildings where it would be difficult to move around a large wooden rectangle. I live in a ~90 year old house and they had no problem pivoting the pieces around to get them into my room. Of course, if you're cheap as poo poo be aware that the cost of a box spring is in addition to the mattress itself. psydude posted:Get a queen. I have a full-sized and it's super annoying to have more than one person sleeping on it. For the sake of Allah and his prophet Mohammed, get a queen sized bed if you ever plan on sharing it with another person. General tips I learned from shopping for mattresses last week:
KillerBean fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 16, 2012 |
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Apr 16, 2012 21:27
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Also, don't be afraid to spend money on a mattress. You spend a third of your life there, and a good one makes a tremendous difference in how rested you feel and how not sore you are in the morning.
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Apr 16, 2012 21:34
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Also, don't be afraid to spend money on a mattress. You spend a third of your life there, and a good one makes a tremendous difference in how rested you feel and how not sore you are in the morning. Oh, totally, good point that I should have included. Spending an extra $300 on your mattress as opposed to buying a bunch of playstation games will improve your life immeasurably. If you can afford it, of course. The mattress I described above came to around $900 and I couldn't be happier.
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Apr 16, 2012 21:58
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Also, don't be afraid to spend money on a mattress. You spend a third of your life there, and a good one makes a tremendous difference in how rested you feel and how not sore you are in the morning. Though it could also have to do with the lack of bedframe/box spring.
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Apr 16, 2012 22:32
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Upgrading beds sure can get expensive. My bed was an antique and really too short for me. Want wood? It's going to cost more. Want it in a style you can't find in a furniture chain/antiques? More expensive still. Antique beds have odd measurements and will make sheet/mattress shopping more difficult. Want walnut? More money over maple. My queen bed cost $2,400ish and it was custom (I believe that includes shipping from Vermont to Connecticut). The only reason it was even that cheap was because what I wanted was simple/easy to make. The bed needs a mattress this one was easy for me I knew what I wanted and so went with latex with a box spring from a local company. The one in the store was softer than what I had, which I like better. Sadly what I wanted wasn't cheap $2,000. Oh but now you have the bed (well waiting for it to get made), better get sheets for it since it's a different size. What's that? Cotton sheets are the most confusing thing ever and you want to give a good quality linen a try? Yep that'll cost you. $330. Although you can get more expensive cotton or linen sheets, it's more that linens low end is apparently not any good nor all that cheap. What good are just sheets though, you need a couple more layers. Turns out the cheap blanket you bought from Ikea is cheap garbage how about a nice wool one on clearance? $361 . Going with cotton will save you money, but heck wool is just plain nicer and only $200 bucks more aren't you worth it? Oh dear you noticed a hole starting to form after you wash it and since clearance(it was in there because it was a discontinued color) is final sale you wonder if you'll be able to get it replace. No replacement but they'll do a repair, enjoy waiting. I want my blanket dagnabbit. You got to of course get an attractive looking top layer. Duvet cover, not what I want, don't like the looks etc. Oh look I find a couple I think I'd like. Oh dear one's $595 and interesting while the other is $550 and sort of dull. Although the $550 can be washed in a washing machine. I of course go for the more expensive one with a waiting period. Oh and your pillow should get upgraded too right? Sure how about a nice down made in good old USA. Sure. $170 I believe it was. I'm undecided if I want a mattress pad, if I do that'll be even more money. Look at that your bed is lower now because that's what you wanted but now you have no nightstand? That'll cost you too and since your between platform bed height and boxspring good luck finding something that'll fit. I'm presently in the process of this my guess is anywhere from $500-1000. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Apr 16, 2012 |
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Apr 16, 2012 22:44
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That is a shitload to spend on every single part of your bedding experience and not representative of 99.999% of people who might read this thread. Where do you even find sheets that cost $330 bucks?
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Apr 17, 2012 00:57
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Thoguh posted:Where do you even find sheets that cost $330 bucks? Closeout at Marshall's? But seriously, good sheets are expensive. Not as necessary in my book as a good mattress, but they do make a difference.
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Apr 17, 2012 01:00
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Given that he was asking for moveable and for a renter, I went with as cheap and small as possible. My bed frame is from ikea and it's all wood (unfinished, though) and currently $99. They have a similar one for half the price, too. Those split boxspring things are the poo poo, but a slat bed is fine too and still cheaper/easier for a renter. I think we can all agree that twin beds are for chumps, at least. Eggplant Wizard fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Apr 17, 2012 |
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Apr 17, 2012 01:06
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Butt Wizard posted:I think we can all agree that twin beds are for chumps, at least. I tell everyone that any adult still sleeping on a twin either lives in a dorm or has given up all hope of ever seducing a lady or gentleman friend ever again. I sleep in a full, which is fine for occasional overnight guests, but on request from a significant other I wouldn't mind upgrading to queen. In conclusion, if you have anything more than occasional boning-party on the bed, definitely go queen. If you ever want to get laid, burn that twin you took from your momma's house. (And also, a queen wont impress anyone if its on the floor, I am on Team Slats and recommend checking craigslist for students selling beds from ikea as they move for the summer - I got my $200 retail bed for $40)
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Apr 17, 2012 01:56
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Yeah, my boxspring wouldn't fit up the steps at my current apartment so my mattress is on the floor bachelor style. 
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Apr 17, 2012 02:26
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psydude posted:Yeah, my boxspring wouldn't fit up the steps at my current apartment so my mattress is on the floor bachelor style. : Why hello, ladies - welcome to my cave, may I show you my japanese style futon with Star Wars sheets?I think that men (and all the filthy, bachelor-style women like me out there) of dating age and inclination should really consider the impact that their abode has on the objects of their desire. Try to do things like get your bed off the floor, purchase seating that is conducive to both conversation and macking on someone (loveseats are called that for a reason), and a basic standard of cleanliness that doesn't involve pizza boxes, xbox cases littered around, stacks of old junk mail bigger than your dog, or anything odious like old garbage bags or litter boxes. You can break some of these rules and still come out ahead in your Gooncave decorating scheme - my boyfriend's bed is on the floor, but he owns proper furnishings for watching netflix in comfort and his apartment is mostly immaculate and austere. Likewise, if you have a bed off of the floor, you can get away with shoving all your not-so-austere junk underneath it. 
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Apr 17, 2012 02:46
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My apartment is pretty clean, but I didn't feel like cutting the box spring in half and dragging it up the stairs. It's kind of a moot point, though, because I'm moving in a month. I would also never bring a woman back here because this place is in the middle of the ghetto.
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Apr 17, 2012 02:51
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psydude posted:My apartment is pretty clean, but I didn't feel like cutting the box spring in half and dragging it up the stairs. It's kind of a moot point, though, because I'm moving in a month. I would also never bring a woman back here because this place is in the middle of the ghetto. Pish posh, that will just filter out the ones who are faint of heart! The real women will just lock their purses in their trunks, park under a bright streetlight, and lear how to politely decline to buy some "stuff" or "hit that." I consider it the final stage of any proper Ladies Finishing Program - How To Navigate The Urban Underbelly With Grace and Aplomb. Also, moving to the ghetto saves tons of money for those willing to make friends with J Money and his crew - those guys hooked me up with some sweet stuff to furnish our old place, just don't ask too many questions. The rent is cheap, the fast food joints are plentiful, and you will never get door to door salesmen.
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Apr 17, 2012 02:57
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Thoguh posted:That is a shitload to spend on every single part of your bedding experience and not representative of 99.999% of people who might read this thread. Where do you even find sheets that cost $330 bucks? https://www.linoto.com . However if you want to go crazy you can go with https://www.frette.com. . The thing is quality is expensive, and I have an irrational hatred of things particle board. I don't like the idea of disposable furniture and would much prefer something that will last a life time or close to it. I don't plan on ever needing to buy a bed, nightstand, dresser again. I can afford to buy stuff that will last a life time so I do. For furniture it's functional art that'll last longer. For sheets it might pay for itself. $330 sheets need to last 6 times as long at $55 ones and while I might not come out ahead in the end I would not be surprise to come close. Even if I don't break even with buying the cheaper stuff it isn't as wasteful and I am using a higher quality product during that time. The trick is finding the quality without getting just plain ripped off. Duck and Cover fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Apr 17, 2012 |
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Apr 17, 2012 03:05
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I prefer to deal with shallow women, so this place is the Myrtle to my Gatsby. No, but seriously, living next to section 8 housing isn't fun.
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Apr 17, 2012 03:08
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If you're not into buying $330 sheets  Walmart has some pretty drat good sheets for cheap. I got some real nice high thread count ones four years ago for $10 and they're still in perfect shape.
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Apr 17, 2012 03:59
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If you want good sheets at a discount, Macy's usually has a discount bin for poo poo they couldn't sell.
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Apr 17, 2012 04:02
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