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I was taking down a tile backsplash in my kitchen and was left with some holes in the plaster. What's the best way to fix these. I want to smooth them over and paint for now and would like to be able to tile it easily at some point in the future. 
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Apr 9, 2012 19:27
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I have a single-handle shower that doesn't get heat worth a drat - I suspect the control valve cartridge in there is set to limit the temperature to an abnormally low level, so I'm going to try and open up the shower handle assembly to adjust the cartridge. (The HWT is new, and the other showers in the house get excellent heat; it's just this one shower that doesn't get hot). However, I can't find a shutoff valve to the shower; there's no removable plate on either side of the wall behind the shower like in my previous apartment. I've been through the crawlspace underneath it and I've traced the lines all the way back to the hot water tank with nary a valve in sight until I get to the tank. So, if I'm shutting off the water, should I shut it off after the tank, or at the point where it enters my house? If I take off the shower handle & escutcheon, will I likely find a couple of local shutoff valves? And am I completely out to lunch as to how to fix my shower heat issue?
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Apr 9, 2012 19:31
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Albino Squirrel posted:
Most showers in homes I've lived in do not have isolation values. Heck most sinks in homes I lived in don't. It's possible that I have just lived in craptastic old homes. I would definatly turn the main water supply off to the house. If its a single handle shower then the cold supply will be run there also. I usually turn off the main regardless. It would be my luck to break some pex somewhere and be running to find the valve while it flooded a random room. From my personal, non-plumbing DIY experience, changing faucet cartridges fixes tap trouble 90% of the time. Depending on the make, you can sometimes bring the cartidge into a local hardware store and get a new one under warrenty. Edit: Might be worth posting in the plumbing thread though. Rodney Chops fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Apr 9, 2012 |
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Apr 9, 2012 19:49
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dokmo posted:I want to build a small shed/container for shovels and lawn stuff. I've never made anything like this before but I want to learn how to nail stuff together, and I don't care if it looks like crap when I'm done as long as it stands solidly upright. Is there somewhere to find plans for these kinds of things? I have no idea where supports should go, what kind of braces to get, how much wood to buy, etc. I found this. Looks relatively straightforward.
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Apr 10, 2012 01:52
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Albino Squirrel posted:I have a single-handle shower that doesn't get heat worth a drat - I suspect the control valve cartridge in there is set to limit the temperature to an abnormally low level, so I'm going to try and open up the shower handle assembly to adjust the cartridge. (The HWT is new, and the other showers in the house get excellent heat; it's just this one shower that doesn't get hot). If you do need to turn off the water, you can secure it at any point upstream.
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Apr 10, 2012 03:12
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kid sinister posted:They really like to hide those labels. For an electric oven, try checking the back, sides, on the back sides of the oven or warmer doors, or underneath the cooktop. Found it! Frigidaire FEF336ECE. Google has produced a pdf manual, as well as a terrible site that lets you view the pdf pages of the service data sheet (which I have) and that is it. http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Electrolux_316417025en-001 Manual http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Electrolux_316441458-001 Service data sheet http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Electrolux_5995469813-001 Parts http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Electrolux_316454901-001 Installation Should I just start yanking and testing relays? Can I even test them with a meter? I have no idea what I am doing!!!
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Apr 10, 2012 14:58
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Associate Christ
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I'm trying to fix up an enclosed porch for the summer and I'm going to put down some indoor/outdoor carpet. The only thing is that the floorboards super super old (like before airplanes were a thing old) and there's big gaps between some of them. What sort of padding can I put beneath i/o carpet to stop the cracks from appearing? Tons of rain and whatnot comes in through the rickety old windows and I want something that can get wet but not get moldy etc. Do you think I need this extra padding or is that sort of carpet stiff enough to go over the cracks and not settle in? If I do need the padding what should I use? Thanks.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:09
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Do not use padding - it's essentially a large sponge and will hold water forever. Since the area gets wet carpeting is probably not a good idea either until you fix the windows. You can lay down something water-resistant (such was Wonderboard) but keep in mind water can still get under it if it's just loosely laid, and that water can rot the wood. The other option is to lat a sheet of plywood to cover the gaps, then cover the surface with either a tarp, or thick plastic sheeting with no break in it before laying down a water-resistant outdoor carpeting. Water and carpet generally don;t mix. Even all=weather outdoor carpeting needs to get sunlight to dry out & prevent mold/moss formation.
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Apr 10, 2012 16:09
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ManDingo posted:I was taking down a tile backsplash in my kitchen and was left with some holes in the plaster. What's the best way to fix these. I want to smooth them over and paint for now and would like to be able to tile it easily at some point in the future. That's plaster on lath wall under your hood, the other wall is cement on steel mesh. I would recommend picking either paint or tile now, since there will be quite a bit of work changing from paint to tile later.
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Apr 10, 2012 16:40
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kid sinister posted:That's plaster on lath wall under your hood, the other wall is cement on steel mesh. I would recommend picking either paint or tile now, since there will be quite a bit of work changing from paint to tile later. Hmmm, I guess if I had to choose it would be tile it now although we are planning on doing the countertops just not in the next few months. I assume trying to fit new countertops in while leaving the tile in place would be a pain? I was hoping I could could span the big holes with fiberglass tape then mud the living hell out of it and be good in the short term.
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Apr 10, 2012 20:13
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ManDingo posted:Hmmm, I guess if I had to choose it would be tile it now although we are planning on doing the countertops just not in the next few months. I assume trying to fit new countertops in while leaving the tile in place would be a pain? I was hoping I could could span the big holes with fiberglass tape then mud the living hell out of it and be good in the short term. That's just it, the only good tileable surfaces that won't mold are solid, uncracked, flat plaster; cement; or some cement-based board. Your only chance at a paintable surface for tiling later would be plaster patching, NOT patching with drywall mud. Plaster is a pain in the rear end to apply, and you would need to remove the old glue first. It might be faster to just tear down to the studs and go with cementboard. Fitting countertops without a backsplash under existing tile can go 3 ways. It could fit perfectly. It could leave a gap. It could be too tall to fit under the tile. A gap can be fixed with caulk depending on the size. Tile too low can be cut back with an oscillating tool with masonry blade. Or you could just get a countertop with a backsplash to cover up any gap. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 15:40
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kid sinister posted:That's just it, the only good tileable surfaces that won't mold are solid, uncracked, flat plaster; cement; or some cement-based board. Your only chance at a paintable surface for tiling later would be plaster patching, NOT patching with drywall mud. Plaster is a pain in the rear end to apply, and you would need to remove the old glue first. It might be faster to just tear down to the studs and go with cementboard. Well after looking at some quotes for granite countertops and almost being knocked over I decided to wait on that. However, we found some decent looking natural stone tile countertop with blacksplash layouts yesterday that wouldn't break the bank too badly and it sounds like we can lay that directly over the existing laminate countertop. So the plan is to tear out the old plaster and lay cement board. Thanks for your input, now I have some serious smashing to do.
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Apr 11, 2012 20:54
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Long story short I'm thinking of doing a hidden installation of this: http://www.amazon.com/JVC-KD-R730BT-AM-MP3-receiver/dp/B006RAGWOK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top And control it with my phone with this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jk.openlink Except the app doesn't control volume. As far as I can see my only option is to remotely rotate the volume knob with a speedometer cable or similar. The knob on the faceplate comes off and has a D shaped shaft. Any suggestions? Edit: Or a rotary potentiometer to a motor that meshes with the knob? Or disassembling the remote control and mounting up/down buttons? Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Apr 11, 2012 |
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Apr 11, 2012 21:32
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Start by contacting the app developer & finding out whether they're ever going to add volume control. If they're not because of some kind of hardware issue or whatever then go hog wild with mods.
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Apr 11, 2012 21:58
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Are you set on that particular unit (like because you already have it?) There are plenty of headunits with RF remotes included. I'd expect having to use an app to do anything would get to be a pain, having to navigate to it, etc. You could also look at one of the many headunits with detachable faces and just extend the link so the face could live in a center console or something. The HU I used in my MG only has 6 conductors to the face plate, so it would be easy to extend with CAT5 cable. I've considered JUST installing a small stereo amp like the many on ebay from Hong Kong with remote volume knobs, then just feeding from an iPod full time. This is for your Mini?
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Apr 11, 2012 22:05
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So I'm living with my parents for a couple weeks after working overseas. All is fine and dandy, but as rent I agreed to build a small bit of roof over a deck. Now I know what your thinking "Boy, that roof looks like poo poo!" I would agree with you. Frankly, the entirety of the house is a mess and I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if it collapsed in on them one day. I've given them the "Your house has major structural issues" speech before, but they don't want to hear any of it. In any case, a roof on the deck is what they want, so a roof is what they'll get. Here's what I'm thinking:  Just four 4x4's set into concrete blocks, with a basic wooden frame on the top to hold a fiberglass roof. It's not going to be pretty, but my parents care more about function than style here. All they really want is a permanent structure to keep some rain off of that little section of deck. I'm really not used to doing this sort of thing. I used to help build sets for plays  , but I've never had to design any sort of practical structure. Luckly, I'll have my grandfather who built the actual deck as a foreman.My main questions are: Does this make sense? Is there a better way to do this? Are there any online guides that would show step by step how to make such a thing?
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Apr 12, 2012 00:47
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Cakefool posted:Start by contacting the app developer & finding out whether they're ever going to add volume control. If they're not because of some kind of hardware issue or whatever then go hog wild with mods. Sent one already and waiting on a reply. eddiewalker posted:Are you set on that particular unit (like because you already have it?) There are plenty of headunits with RF remotes included. I'd expect having to use an app to do anything would get to be a pain, having to navigate to it, etc. Yep, for the Mini. I'll post more in my thread but I'm working on a sound system that's completely hidden and this could be a solution. The included remote uses IR so I'll need line of sight. Wiring the faceplate could be an option, plan B is Aux-RCA cable into an amp.
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Apr 12, 2012 00:57
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If it comes with an IR remote then just extend the IR receiver to an inconspicuous spot somewhere? It should just be a tiny black lens, maybe 4mm or so. Do you have any black plastic areas you could flush-mount into?
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Apr 12, 2012 07:44
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NeekBerm posted:...to hold a fiberglass roof. Can't offer any construction advice but if you're set on fiberglass I'd recommend something like this instead of the traditional lightweight panels which are brittle and will be destroyed by the first big windstorm: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...ollow&cId=PDIO1
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Apr 12, 2012 07:48
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I want to buy some slotted angles to build three basic shelves 4"x7"x1" with 6 tiers. Problem is they're twice as expensive as regular steel angles. Should I just go with buying the regular angles and drilling holes where the tier needs to be? Or would that be too much work? All I have is a hand drill. I understand that you can just go and buy a slotted shelf system but I'm just  particular about just building it myself. I guess the other question is if not, where can I source cheap slotted angles online?
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Apr 13, 2012 01:50
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If you are capable of operating a tape measure & hand drill without adult supervision just make your own. Post pics in the project megathread as well.
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Apr 13, 2012 08:42
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I'll post more in my thread but I'm working on a sound system that's completely hidden and this could be a solution. This is probably a dumb question, but why would you want to install a completely hidden sound system? What's the point or are you just that paranoid? Also, if you just need volume and the thing comes with an IR remote, just solder a few wires and extend the IR receiver to a spot on your dash.
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Apr 13, 2012 16:44
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So i've got a stupid problem. I went and purchased one of those pull up bars that hang on your door frame. Well it turns out, my door frames are apparently larger than normal and the drat thing doesn't reach the top of the moulding. So instead of returning it, I'm trying to think of a way to mount it to the frame. I'm thinking two large bolts through the bar, straight into the moulding and door frame would work. Or installing some large "hang all" hooks and just hanging it on them. Heres some pics to see what I'm working with. This would be the side I hang on http://i.imgur.com/wZl0A.jpg The side that I would mount the bar to. http://i.imgur.com/mrymQ.jpg Now one concern about putting bolts through the flat bar is that its made of plastic. I'm not sure if it alone would be strong enough. The bolts themselves would be long enough to ensure I was well into the door frame itself. The hook idea might be more ideal, since It would be easier to just put the bar away when I was done. And no I'm not that vain when it comes to the decor of my house. Having a permanently mounted pull up bar or some hooks isnt going to bother me one bit. Also theres plenty of clearance so I wont have to duck under it if i do leave it up there. Well any thought would be much appreciated.
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Apr 13, 2012 17:33
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I am not sure why you haven't considered adding a piece of wood that is the right height to the moulding. Are your door frames also too wide?
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Apr 13, 2012 20:29
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Corla Plankun posted:I am not sure why you haven't considered adding a piece of wood that is the right height to the moulding. Are your door frames also too wide? Thats a pretty obvious and simple solution. I feel somewhat retarded for not thinking of it. I imagine it would be the best solution. I'd just have to be sure to put enough screws into it to make sure it could support my weight.
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Apr 13, 2012 21:01
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I'm moving into an apartment and my bedroom is basically just a basement, and there's no door. Is it difficult to fix that? Would soundproof curtains also work for privacy?
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Apr 14, 2012 01:27
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So. Any wood floor experts that could give me a hint as to what's going on with my floor? The damage is worst where those two planks meet and spreads out from there while decreasing in severity. termites? 
laod fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Apr 14, 2012 |
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Apr 14, 2012 01:38
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Yeah, that does look like wood-boring insect damage. Sorry.
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Apr 14, 2012 03:37
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Thornes posted:I'm moving into an apartment and my bedroom is basically just a basement, and there's no door. Fix it? What, like install a door? Actually not that difficult. I've never heard of soundproof curtains.
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Apr 14, 2012 21:49
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Cakefool posted:I've never heard of soundproof curtains. I think they're still called "doors" in the UK. God, you guys are loving backwards over there. 
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Apr 15, 2012 06:34
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I am going to refinish my cabinets with a kit, rustoleum brand if that matters. I have one question though, one panel looks like the venier is stripped off. I'm not sure how I should handle it. Any suggestions? 
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Apr 15, 2012 22:31
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laod posted:termites? Bingo! I've never heard of them preferring stained wood over untreated studs and joists though. jassi007 posted:I am going to refinish my cabinets with a kit, rustoleum brand if that matters. I have one question though, one panel looks like the venier is stripped off. I'm not sure how I should handle it. Any suggestions? That looks like a standard cabinet veneer side, which is probably 1/4" oak plywood. Now plywood itself is made from several thin grain-crossed layers of wood glued and pressed together. Yours looks like the top layer cracked to pieces and most of those pieces fell off. Which wood are your cabinet faces and that side made from? Please post a better picture of one of the top layer pieces still on that side that's still attached. I would replace that entire veneer piece. You could go to a cabinet supplier and probably find a replacement side. You might be able to carefully pry off the old side piece, then use it as a template and trace it to a new piece of plywood that you would then cut out. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 15, 2012 |
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Apr 15, 2012 23:13
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jassi007 posted:I am going to refinish my cabinets with a kit, rustoleum brand if that matters. I have one question though, one panel looks like the venier is stripped off. I'm not sure how I should handle it. Any suggestions? Peel it off and re-veneer with birch or cover with 1/8" birch ply.
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Apr 17, 2012 06:44
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jassi007 posted:I am going to refinish my cabinets with a kit, rustoleum brand if that matters. I have one question though, one panel looks like the venier is stripped off. I'm not sure how I should handle it. Any suggestions? I just messed up my cabinets a couple of weeks ago by trying to paint them. So I stripped the paint off the part of my cabinets that was painted, and sanded everything. I really didn't like painted look, but I wanted my cabinets to go from that honey oak look to very very dark. So I did the following for under $60 (I only did the water stain to make it darker): - Stained them with General Finishes Water Stain (espresso color) - 1 medium coat & 1 light coat of General Finishes Gel Stain (java color) - Tonight I am starting to do my clear top coat (General Finishes) Overall I am amazed at how easy using gel stains has been (you only need to lightly sand). If you don't want to do the water stain the total cost for 150 square foot is around $40. The only issue is it is not a even stain (which I really like, but others might not like). I can see hints of red in the lighter areas, and dark chocolate in other areas. Overall I am glad I went with a gel stain (this was the first time in my life I ever stained anything). Also I haven't decided what to do with my veneer sides. I was thinking about going with ply wood and stain it to match my cabinets (I have 1/4 of a inch to work with). PM me or let me know what you do. Just curious do they make stain-able veneer that I can stain to match my cabinets? I searched Home Depot website but no luck (maybe I'm using the wrong term). nate fisher fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Apr 17, 2012 |
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Apr 17, 2012 17:27
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This is kind of off topic but I'm guessing the same people who DIY will probably have experience with roaches. I've been in this house for about three years now. Prior to the past few months, I've had ants but they were dealt with using bait and cleaning my gutters - decaying matter had made lovely nesting material. Recently I've been seeing roaches but the cleanliness of the house has not changed - actually recently it's been cleaner. The odd thing is that the roaches I'm seeing are sluggish or dead. There's an old tank of pesticide in the garage that may have been used by the previous tenant or landlord prior to me moving into the house. Regardless, the number of roaches has gone up from a few a year to a few a week. I live in southern ND so it may be a seasonal/cyclical thing or it may be that residual poison had acted as a deterrent and is now killing roaches slower and they are now able to come in and die instead of dying outside. There has been almost no rain, so that wouldn't be driving them indoors. I'm going to get a new bottle of perimeter treatment from the garden shop but I was wondering if anyone had any insight into what might be going on with the increase in numbers. Thanks. ForkPat fucked around with this message at 19:33 on May 5, 2012 |
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Apr 18, 2012 03:10
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The presence of roaches does not mean that there's a cleanliness issue. My SWAG would be that they are being driven out of somewhere else nearby by treatment or some other environmental change. If you want to treat for them yourself, the absolute best thing I have ever used was a smoke fogger made by Raid, called the Fumigator. They come in packs of 3 in a blue box. They are expensive...but they do emit a smoke, which gets everywhere, including inside the walls. I used to use them to great effect when I lived in an apartment (you can never, ever eliminate roaches in an apartment building - you can only fight holding actions); one treatment would keep 'em away for up to 3-months. VVV thanks for the link! Just ought two bottles of that stuff...there are termites in my area & I needed something to use. Wonder if it'll work on fleas? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Apr 18, 2012 |
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Apr 18, 2012 06:22
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Use a fumigator like PainterofCrap said then use this stuff right here to keep a perimeter outside your house: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html PainterofCrap also hit the nail on the head, it doesn't mean you have a cleanliness issue, it just means certain variables are at play. For us, we live close to a river so if we don't keep up on spraying, we get overran pretty quickly nevermind the fact we have cleaning ladies that come to the house once a week that disinfect and clean every little thing. I forgot one quarter and paid the consequences. Also, invest in some pyrethrin based product for your kitchen area to keep the little bastards out. Pyrethrin can be used around food surfaces to give you an extra barrier of protection. This is what we use around our kitchen: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/exciter-insecticide-p-671.html Hope this helps you out, cockroaches are a pain in the rear end especially if you live in an area prone to them which we didn't know until we moved here a few years ago. Edit: You can compare prices here too: http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/ keykey fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 18, 2012 |
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Apr 18, 2012 19:48
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 How do I shave this extra bit off? A friend recommended an electric planer, but isn't it going to take forever? Also, I'm hoping I could save a trip to my father's place to borrow one. Would it work with a skill saw? I'm a little worried about destroying everything since that little border is 5 feet long.
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Apr 19, 2012 19:23
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internet inc posted:
Table saw.
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Apr 19, 2012 20:06
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Circular saw with a fence will take care of that in ten seconds
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Apr 19, 2012 21:24
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